[delaineyklein]

FBO 2014 BMW 435i Xdrive
I apologize in advance for the length, I wanted to make one post explaining everything, important info first. Figured I’d post on this forum too.

I’ve been having issues with this for a year now. It started last July when I re-flashed my Bm3 tune and got Chassis Stabilization, Pedestrian Warning, and Front Collateral Warning permacodes in the check control. Nothing came up when checking the body codes, but it disabled some basic functions, ex. cruise control, sport/ eco mode, etc.

In October, the car started having issues with the FlexRay. The Chassis code was replaced with an Adaptive Headlight Malf., Headlamp Vert. Aim Malf., Passenger-restraint System Malf, and I lost power steering. It only happened 4-5 times randomly after starting, and was “fixed” by turning the ignition off and letting the iDrive restart. This entirely went away.

It’s December at this point and I still had the 3 original check control faults. It started to occasionally buck while on the throttle between 65-80 mph on the highway. It felt like someone was pressing the brake. Checked the codes, and there were a slew of Signal Invalids: ICM Interface, Wheel Torque, Angle Accelerator, Torque Crankshaft, Longitudinal Acceleration, etc. I chalked it up to wheel torque sensors 1 & 2, and switched them to see which was defective. The bucking went away for a bit but came back.

Last month (April), I was passing on the highway at 80 mph. The car bucked, promptly threw itself into neutral, and then bricked itself. It put itself in park at 3 mph and wouldn’t start back up. I noticed I don’t have the codes from this exact day but this is what I got in neutral:

Check Control: Brake System, Drivetrain Malfunction, Transmission Malfunction, Fuel System Malfunction, Pedestrian/ Collateral Malfunctions

48002C ICM, ACC: Interface DSC
CAAC0A Interface DME/DDE (data, drivetrain 2, 0x3F9): signal invalid

E06C43 Signal (warning object coordination status, 0x21F) invalid, transmitter DSC/ICM
E06C44 Signal (warning object coordination status, 0x21F) invalid, transmitter DSC/ICM

D01646 No Message (angle accelator pedal, 40.1.4), receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D019AB Signal (drive train data 2, 230.0.2) invalid, transmitter DME/DDE

D35A57 ICM Interface (longitudinal acceleration, centre of gravity, ID: 0X199) signal invalid
D35557 No Message (wheel torque powertrain 1, 0X08F), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D35558 No Message (wheel torque powertrain 2, 41.3.4), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D35A08 No Message (wheel torque powertrain 6, 61.3.4), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D3556D No Message (wheel torque powertrain 3, 0X145), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D35B3F No Message (wheel torque, drive 5, 40.3.4), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D35570 No Message (wheel torque powertrain 4, 0X0DC), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D358E1 No Message (torque, crankshaft 1, 0X0A5), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D35646 No Message (accelerator pedal angle, 0X0D9), receiver DSC, transm. DME/DDE
D35577 Signal (wheel torque powertrain 4, 0X0DC), invalid, transm. DME/DDE
D3557A Signal (wheel torque powertrain 4, 0X0DC), invalid, transm. DME/DDE

E12C3D DSC Interface (message from CBS partner BBV): Signal Invalid
E114BE Signal (transmission train display data, 0x3FD) invalid, EGS/DKG/EME
E699AB Signal (data, drivetrain 2, 0x3F9) invalid, transmitter DME/DDE


I’ve had enough at this point so it went straight to the dealer. I thoroughly explained everything to the tech and he still blamed it on the tuning software “causing an under-voltage in the vehicle”. They jumpstarted it to get the engine running, charged the battery, disconnected my Dinan boost chip, wiped my ECU, and updated the iDrive. The check control faults finally went away. They took it for a 15 mile test drive and “it was fixed”. Wrong! It threw itself into neutral again 8 miles down the road and the check control faults came back. Jumpstarted it, turned it back on, drove 6 miles and it went into neutral up a hill. It turned back on just fine after waiting 3 hrs for AAA.

Got it home and cleaned all 4 wheel speed sensors. It was fine driving 150 miles round-trip to pick up a brake pad sensor (detailed why at end). 300 miles later it bucked on the highway and the control faults came back, luckily they all went away after clearing the codes:

Check Control: Brake System, Collision Warning System Malf., Pedestrian Warning Reduced

E06C43 Warning object coord. signal invalid
48002C ICM, ACC: Interface DSC
48068C Transfer Box: Temporary fault, temperature
D35A57 ICM Interface (longitudinal acc., centre of gravity) signal invalid
D36D44 Signal (longitudinal torque distribution, front/rear axle, 19.3.4) invalid, transm. VTG
D01646 No message angle accelerator
D016E4 Message (distribution status, longitudinal movement, front/rear axle, 19.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transm. VTG
D018E1 No message torque crankshaft 1
D01557 No message wheel torque 1
D02D58 Wheel torque 1 signal invalid
D01558 Wheel torque 2 no message
D0156D Wheel torque 3 no message, missing
D01570 Wheel torque 4 no message
D01B3F Wheel torque 5 no message
D01A08 Wheel torque 6 no message


250 miles after that, the car bucked on the highway, threw codes but no faults. It seemed like it was somehow getting better; no issues for 1000+ miles after that. Forward 3 weeks to last night, it was raining and I lost traction around a turn for the 3rd time. Threw itself into neutral and we’re back to square one. It did it again 3 miles down the road. I didn’t bother checking the codes the first time because I already knew what was going on, but saw this the second time accidentally clicking read instead of clear:

440040 Transfer Box (VTG): Terminal 30b: line disconnection


The car’s been sitting in the garage since. I know for a fact the issue starts with the wheel speed sensors; the wheels move a little too fast and the car goes into limp mode. I’m unsure where to start, I can’t find anything on the terminal or what could cause the disconnection. I only saw e9x posts. Any advice/ help would be greatly appreciated. I’m tired of throwing money at this thing and nothing fixing it.





Maintenance/Services:

July/ Aug. 2023

• Flashed to stock to fix the vacuum leak. Serpentine belt snapped, destroying both camshaft seals (initial cause)
• Contacted 3 mechanics, Kassel Performance, Dinan, and Bootmod, no definitive answer
• Ngk spark plugs, CTS turbo inlet pipe, valve cover gasket, tensioner/belt/pulley kit

[/LIST]
Nov./ Dec. 2023

• Found faulty tracker on battery, caused severe drain
• Contacted BMW tech, said it was the tuning
• Took it to a tuning shop, had the ZGM reset and car diagnosed, said it was my broken side camera
• Duralast Platinum H8-AGM, VRSF 7” intercooler, new coolant/oil line seals, rotors/pads/sensors/fluid service

[/LIST]
March 2024

• Replaced camera and got new connector wiring from a donor 535i. Faulty camera opened the circuit, causing the front sensors to not work
• Replaced both oil filter housing seals, didn’t tighten the last bolt enough and blew oil all over the alternator (idk if that’s relevant)
• Switched the front two wheel speed sensors

April/ May 2024

• Software update, ECU reset, removed Dinan performance chip
• Cleaned wheel speed sensors and the space they sit in, checked connections
• Wheel rotation
• Brake pad sensor snapped back in Jan., figured the open circuit messed with the wheel speed sensors, replaced it
• The battery’s in the correct range. I’ve been putting it on a 1 or 4 volt charger whenever it starts acting up because of the said under voltage
• Checked the fuse boxes, it looks like nothing’s blown

[SpoolinAddict]

If you went to the dealer and you paid for diagnostic...I would expect them to take it back in and actually look at it again. This happened to me when I had a parasitic battery drain that was random. I only had to pay for the new water pump and the battery replacement

[fortythirtyfive]

Dead batteries really can mess you about, especially as they'll read 100% charged when in theory they're dying.

I had so many wheel speed/gearbox/traction faults on the way back from my 700 mile road trip, they began about 45 miles from home on the way back and persisted throughout the next 2-3 months of regular driving, it goes worse and worse to the point it would kick/jolt and sometimes throw me into neutral, I also noticed the radio would shut off at this point and sometimes the speedo and idrive display.

Early hours one morning after doing an airport run for some friends I lost power steering on a sharp bend along with my headlights, I knew this time it was more serious and within 1-2 minutes it repeated the same before I could pull over. It shut the car down completely throwing the gearbox into park at around 5mph which made a horrific whining noise, I slammed on though to prevent any damage, the car then refused to turn on at all and wouldn't unlock via the key. Luckily nobody was on the road at that time as I was now stranded on a country lane in the dark, I waited 3 minutes and it sprang bang into life and fired up. I drove home super nervously, parked it up and stuck the car on charge for a few hours.

After swapping out the 5 year old battery those issues vanished immediately - the issue the battery was so bad is because I abused the power levels, never really charged it up, always had the ignition on when I was working on the car, constantly ignored the iDrive battery warnings because I presumed an hours driving would top it back up, it should also be noted that I have a lot of demand on battery because I run self built headlights and custom modules from a switched live.

Now I monitor my charge levels and always charge it up when needed because of how paranoid it made me, a dying battery will literally wreak havoc at extremely random times, if a sensor suddenly demands more power than it needed 25 minutes prior then it will trip and throw an error.

Also reading the battery percentage can be very 50/50, I use bimmerlink and would constantly see a 65-70% reading but 5 minutes later it would update to something like 85%.

[delaineyklein]

Originally Posted by SpoolinAddict

If you went to the dealer and you paid for diagnostic...I would expect them to take it back in and actually look at it again. This happened to me when I had a parasitic battery drain that was random. I only had to pay for the new water pump and the battery replacement

My dad and I both contacted them about this and they did not seem to care. You’d have thought they would have looked a little deeper into the undervoltage but they didn’t. Turns out it’s the ride height sensor. I was thinking I got unlucky with the tech, but this happened the last time I took it there.

[delaineyklein]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Dead batteries really can mess you about, especially as they'll read 100% charged when in theory they're dying.

I had so many wheel speed/gearbox/traction faults on the way back from my 700 mile road trip, they began about 45 miles from home on the way back and persisted throughout the next 2-3 months of regular driving, it goes worse and worse to the point it would kick/jolt and sometimes throw me into neutral, I also noticed the radio would shut off at this point and sometimes the speedo and idrive display.

Early hours one morning after doing an airport run for some friends I lost power steering on a sharp bend along with my headlights, I knew this time it was more serious and within 1-2 minutes it repeated the same before I could pull over. It shut the car down completely throwing the gearbox into park at around 5mph which made a horrific whining noise, I slammed on though to prevent any damage, the car then refused to turn on at all and wouldn't unlock via the key. Luckily nobody was on the road at that time as I was now stranded on a country lane in the dark, I waited 3 minutes and it sprang bang into life and fired up. I drove home super nervously, parked it up and stuck the car on charge for a few hours.

After swapping out the 5 year old battery those issues vanished immediately - the issue the battery was so bad is because I abused the power levels, never really charged it up, always had the ignition on when I was working on the car, constantly ignored the iDrive battery warnings because I presumed an hours driving would top it back up, it should also be [...]

I agree it’s an issue with the power levels, but I don’t think it’s the battery itself. I just replaced it a few months ago.

I went on a drive last night to watch the voltage of the different systems in my car. Voltage to the transmission seems to drop while on the gas, from 14.5 to 11.5V. The other systems don’t fluctuate as drastically, only 15 to 12.5V. I also noticed that it’s not receiving enough voltage back from both driver’s side suspension ride height sensors. They’re receiving the correct amount but only giving 2.2V back when it should be 32V. I’m going to switch them with the passenger side and see if the problem follows.

Hopefully what I’m thinking is correct. The codes were stored under the ICM, where the data streams of all of the other issues are. I haven’t had any other battery warnings since I replaced it. Were you able to get that fixed?