01-11-2019, 11:28 AM | #67 |
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By having them aimed correctly. It's not the light intensity that blinds other drivers, it's having them aimed too high. It's also a necessity to use LED bulbs that place the LEDs in the same position as the filaments are in halogens, with no forward facing LEDs.
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01-14-2019, 02:52 PM | #68 |
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F30 BMW 330d M Sport
E46 BMW 330d SE | SOLD E36 BMW 318i SE | SOLD Last edited by shrubbery; 01-14-2019 at 03:09 PM.. |
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01-14-2019, 03:19 PM | #70 |
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Link updated as the other ones disappeared.
Have also spotted these alternatives: https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOVSIGHT-He...ct_top?ie=UTF8
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F30 BMW 330d M Sport
E46 BMW 330d SE | SOLD E36 BMW 318i SE | SOLD |
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01-14-2019, 04:39 PM | #71 |
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I don't see LED drive ballasts, and I can't say if you can go without them. These look the same as what I have, even down to the Broview name on the ballasts.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Upgr...AbTest=ae803_4 Make sure you get H7 for headlights, H11 for fogs. I assume the link will show you pricing for UK, it shows US for me. I've used AliExpress before, the service is very good and surprisingly fast. |
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01-21-2019, 08:56 PM | #72 |
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Billfitz, thanks for the info in this post. The OSRAM Nightbreakers i installed 1.5 years ago died and I was reluctant to go with another set of halogens. I ordered these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They don't have the drive ballast that are found in other models but as you say, they might not be needed. Waiting for the weather to get above freezing to install. Will post an update shortly. |
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01-30-2019, 04:10 AM | #73 | |
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I am about changing my H8 Fog Lights and H8 Stand-by lights (the circle around the angle eye). Car is E93 07, what do you recommend? I don't want to have any error unless they can be solved with coding or Ohm. I am interested to have 6000K lights. |
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01-30-2019, 07:29 AM | #74 |
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Everything you need to know about the fog lights is in the post you quoted. I don't have angel eyes, so I can't help there.
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02-05-2019, 08:51 AM | #75 |
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just installed my led h7s very very easy after following advice on here.
literally took 5 mins to do both sides. however 1 of the led bulbs sat back in the hosing at a slight angle, so will be testing the light spread as soon as its dark. |
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02-05-2019, 06:05 PM | #77 | |
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Quote:
Murf |
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02-06-2019, 03:29 AM | #78 |
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yes certainly a lot heavier than what i took out...the yellow chips on the bulb were facing diagonally.
tested them last night and was lighting up the shops i was driving past. changed over this morning now all is well what a difference led makes compared to the halogens. time will tell if they last but very happy as of now |
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02-06-2019, 08:10 AM | #79 |
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I've seen those, which are usually tagged as used in Mercedes, and I don't think it has anything to do with LED anyway. Liquid Nails is meant for use with wood. It may or may not hold metal, and may degrade with heat. I used high temperature RTV silicone. It's meant for use with metal and will withstand the heat of LED bases that must be considerable, otherwise they wouldn't have heat sinks.
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04-29-2019, 10:37 AM | #80 |
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Newbie and just replaced my halogens with LEDs. They're great but I'm getting the error generated on the checks (interestingly, no errors are generated when the lights are on; only when they are off).
The light manufacturer and some non-bimmerpost sources are recommending adding resistors. Will that do the trick or will I need the next step of coding? BTW, I've see references to an F30 "cheat sheet." Is there a link for that? I'm curious what I can actually do. Thanks. |
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04-29-2019, 10:58 AM | #81 |
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Coding is not optional, it's mandatory. Even if you add resistors to eliminate the error warnings the lights will still flash every few minutes, as the warm check constantly sends out a test pulse as long as the lights are off. It doesn't send a test pulse when the lights are on, because they're on. Beside that, resistors burn current, which puts an unnecessary load on the wiring. No doubt the light manufacturer says your bulbs are plug and play, but where BMW is concerned there's no such thing.
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04-30-2019, 03:05 AM | #82 | |
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I notice BimmerCode has a setting to choose LED as the light type. Does changing that do anything, or is disabling the warm and cold checks the way to go? Thanks for the help. Great forum! |
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05-01-2019, 03:09 PM | #85 | |
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Billfitz, than you so much for your help. I coded and the warnings went away. The new lights work great.
Let me ask you one more related question. The low beam replacements I have have resistors. I'm contemplating changing the high beams too. You said Quote:
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05-02-2019, 05:29 AM | #87 |
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05-02-2019, 08:04 AM | #88 |
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Nope. To recap:
You have to code out the cold and warm checks... cold and warm checks will cause the LEDs to periodically blink. You don't see it with halogens, but with LEDs you do. Something happens with the fogs that doesn't with the high or low beams. As soon as you plug them in they flicker rapidly, at a very low intensity... I found that a 15 ohm resistor stopped the flickering...The high and low beams don't have this flicker, so they don't need resistors. |
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