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      08-26-2014, 05:20 PM   #23
FOURSIXTEEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devant View Post
So many things wrong here:

First, no one should decide to change their bearings off of one blackstone report. You need to have a baseline and several reports to formulate a trend analysis and see how the engine is faring.

Second Motul 0w-30? Where did you get that this oil was okay to use, especially with new bearings? You need to use a special break-in oil with zinc and then switch back to 10w-60 or M1 0w-40 (if you believe all the reports on M1)

Third why are you letting the car idle for 10 minutes. That is the single biggest contributor to worn engine internals. You are basically running the engine starved of oil. Start the car wait 30 seconds and begin driving. This will allow oil to circulate everywhere it needs to go inside the engine, especially the top of the engine.
No need to be condescending just say why you disagree and your opinion
It's not the end of the world we all drive the same car. It's just 2000$ we paid 40-60k for the car who cares. Yeah I have one report and yes I was going to change them which in all reality cannot HURT anything...

Also I already sad it was a typo and I meant 0w40 which is what everyone
Seems to be going to and what eas advised. I high end race oil is a high end race oil m1 or motul doesn't matter.

Special break in oil???? Weird no one EVER said this at either eas or Texas track works who is a primary bmw race oriented shop.

I simply wanted to get opinions and I appreciate everyone's very much but don't just come rolling in acting like every thing you say is fact. No one knows everything that's the main reason we all are here on the forum. To learn.
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      08-26-2014, 07:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOURSIXTEEN View Post
No need to be condescending just say why you disagree and your opinion
It's not the end of the world we all drive the same car. It's just 2000$ we paid 40-60k for the car who cares. Yeah I have one report and yes I was going to change them which in all reality cannot HURT anything...

Also I already sad it was a typo and I meant 0w40 which is what everyone
Seems to be going to and what eas advised. I high end race oil is a high end race oil m1 or motul doesn't matter.

Special break in oil???? Weird no one EVER said this at either eas or Texas track works who is a primary bmw race oriented shop.

I simply wanted to get opinions and I appreciate everyone's very much but don't just come rolling in acting like every thing you say is fact. No one knows everything that's the main reason we all are here on the forum. To learn.
Well I say my post was designed to inform not condescend. Sorry you took it that way or disagree, but I stand by what I said.

The oil brand DOES matter. All 0w40s are not equal.

YES break in oil. It is used more for smooth cam break in but also has benefits for rod bearings.

Break in oil is a single weight oil that does not change viscosity with heat, it also contains zinc which allows new metal parts to crunch on the zinc rather than the metal parts themseleves.
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      08-26-2014, 09:47 PM   #25
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Thank you for clarifying I appreciate your opinion and I simple must have read it with the wrong tone/way and will ask about break in oil. Although we will just have to disagree on oil. I agree there are differences but at the upper end and in that range it is marginal at best. Although I look at this from a scientific standpoint. I am a biochemist/geochemist that deals directly with clays and oils in relation to shear and break down via bond interactions. So performance wise there may be something I am missing, but on paper and chemically they are generally identical but so are humans and we all act different so take my opinion with that in mind.

Thanks again for everyone's input. We went ahead and put motul 0w40 in and I am gonna run another 5k miles and re analyze to see where we are at. Hopefully it can be held off till the new year and I will do bearings at same time as SC
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      08-26-2014, 10:53 PM   #26
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http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013...ng-clearances/
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      08-27-2014, 11:26 PM   #27
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What's funny is there's no proof changing them does anything. Has anyone pulled replacment bearings. Bearings should never be considered maintenance on a car. If you have peace of mind then good, but 2k is still 2k. Not cheap.
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      09-01-2014, 10:53 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s85e90
What's funny is there's no proof changing them does anything. Has anyone pulled replacment bearings. Bearings should never be considered maintenance on a car. If you have peace of mind then good, but 2k is still 2k. Not cheap.
agreed. ive got better things to spend 2k on. I still cant believe the amount of attention this topic gets. If your engine is running fine leave it alone.

you don't run to the hospital if you're piss is too yellow.
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      09-01-2014, 07:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s85e90 View Post
What's funny is there's no proof changing them does anything. Has anyone pulled replacment bearings. Bearings should never be considered maintenance on a car. If you have peace of mind then good, but 2k is still 2k. Not cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnykin View Post
agreed. ive got better things to spend 2k on. I still cant believe the amount of attention this topic gets. If your engine is running fine leave it alone.

you don't run to the hospital if you're piss is too yellow.
i have never understood the mentality of commenting on a thread to not only add nothing in respect to the topic but be overall negative. dude go drive your car.
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      09-02-2014, 05:54 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devant View Post

YES break in oil. It is used more for smooth cam break in but also has benefits for rod bearings.

Break in oil is a single weight oil that does not change viscosity with heat, it also contains zinc which allows new metal parts to crunch on the zinc rather than the metal parts themseleves.
For cams, there is metal on metal. It is not in the bearings, but in the lobes on the lifters. Break in oil or at least a break in process or ZDDP additive is necessary.

My research suggests there is no break in for bearings and thus no need for break in oil. I am not using any after changing my rod bearings and I have not read of anyone else doing so, either.

Also, there are multiweight break in oils if you do choose to use one. Even for a real engine break in, it is not necessary, however. The last engine I broke in was on Walmart 10W30 with a bottle of Redline break in additive containing ZDDP.
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      09-02-2014, 04:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOURSIXTEEN View Post
i have never understood the mentality of commenting on a thread to not only add nothing in respect to the topic but be overall negative. dude go drive your car.
So what? I/We should add to the hysteria about an issue that may not be? There's plenty of cars running fine, and there's no real fix here. New bearings will do the same thing if clearances remain the same.
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      09-02-2014, 04:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
For cams, there is metal on metal. It is not in the bearings, but in the lobes on the lifters. Break in oil or at least a break in process or ZDDP additive is necessary.

My research suggests there is no break in for bearings and thus no need for break in oil. I am not using any after changing my rod bearings and I have not read of anyone else doing so, either.

Also, there are multiweight break in oils if you do choose to use one. Even for a real engine break in, it is not necessary, however. The last engine I broke in was on Walmart 10W30 with a bottle of Redline break in additive containing ZDDP.
Everything I've ever read from legit sources say rod bearings don't need a break in oil, but they do need a break in period where you don't drive the car hard.
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      09-02-2014, 06:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
Everything I've ever read from legit sources say rod bearings don't need a break in oil, but they do need a break in period where you don't drive the car hard.

eh... fresh motor, start, run @ 2k for a bit to seat rings, change oil, then run hard.. Cams break in, bearings and rings are gonna seat immediately running.
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