Best Replacement Battery

[aus]

Has anyone tried Weizeus batteries?

H8: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...onths-warranty

H6: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...44104235221220

H5: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...44104248885476

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[Z K]

Originally Posted by aus

Has anyone tried Weizeus batteries?

H8: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...onths-warranty

H6: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...44104235221220

H5: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...44104248885476

.

I haven't. Not to say there aren't good Chinese products but it's a no name budget brand that recently sprung up from China.

[egebhardt]

My BMW AGM battery started to fade this winter.
I'll get something smaller to replace it. That thing is silly heavy and expensive.
BMW AGM - lead
vs
Walmart Flooded Acid - lead
Either way, it's a lead battery
I can't justify anything over 100 bux.

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by egebhardt

My BMW AGM battery started to fade this winter.
I'll get something smaller to replace it. That thing is silly heavy and expensive.
BMW AGM - lead
vs
Walmart Flooded Acid - lead
Either way, it's a lead battery
I can't justify anything over 100 bux.

You can certainly go that route. A lot of us are seeing 8-12 year lifespans on the bmw agm batteries and many late model e9xs are just now moving into their second battery. My ‘11 got its first replacement in 2022. You get what you pay for.

(Don’t forget to register the car for the new battery)

[Jerezblack.m3]

I just replaced mine with BMW AGM battery
part number 61-21-5-A40-E29

[OmairK]

61-21-5-A40-E29 is the right size. I tried to get the E33 battery to fit 105ah AGM but it does not fit.

[Jerezblack.m3]

Originally Posted by OmairK

61-21-5-A40-E29 is the right size. I tried to get the E33 battery to fit 105ah AGM but it does not fit.

I had it installed so I don't know the weight. do you happen to have weight of the battery?

[Reddevils7]

Installed the Induktik wireless charger today. Had the lights and music on and tested the phone on the charger for like 30 seconds. Went to start the car and no crank. Checked battery voltage and it drained all the way down to like 8v and then all these errors came on and windshield wipers started then the car just died completely. Used a battery booster to revive it and they drove it for 30 mins after clearing all the codes.

I checked and the battery is still the original from 2009. It's been running fine up until tonight. I think it was still a one time problem because the battery went back to 12.8v when the car is turned off so it's holding charge just fine. I think holding up the charger initially just drained it with everything else running. Still though, I'm planning to replace it based on how old it is. What do dealers charge these days for OEM batteries?

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

Installed the Induktik wireless charger today. Had the lights and music on and tested the phone on the charger for like 30 seconds. Went to start the car and no crank. Checked battery voltage and it drained all the way down to like 8v and then all these errors came on and windshield wipers started then the car just died completely. Used a battery booster to revive it and they drove it for 30 mins after clearing all the codes.

I checked and the battery is still the original from 2009. It's been running fine up until tonight. I think it was still a one time problem because the battery went back to 12.8v when the car is turned off so it's holding charge just fine. I think holding up the charger initially just drained it with everything else running. Still though, I'm planning to replace it based on how old it is. What do dealers charge these days for OEM batteries?

Most of us simply opt for the Duralast Platinum AGM batteries, which cost around $280. YMMV, but considering the price increase over the last two years since I bought mine, one can assume that the OEM battery will be four times more expensive. At that point, you're better off buying a lightweight (LTW) battery.

Alternatively, you can choose a Z4 battery, which is a few pounds lighter and less expensive as well.

Duralast Gold - https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...dlg/832332_0_0

Duralast Plat EFB (AGM compatible) if you care about that.. - https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...fb/1070711_0_0

replacing these batteries every 3 years would still be cheaper than buying a new OEM.

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

Most of us simply opt for the Duralast Platinum AGM batteries, which cost around $280. YMMV, but considering the price increase over the last two years since I bought mine, one can assume that the OEM battery will be four times more expensive. At that point, you're better off buying a lightweight (LTW) battery.

Alternatively, you can choose a Z4 battery, which is a few pounds lighter and less expensive as well.

Duralast Gold - https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...dlg/832332_0_0

Duralast Plat EFB (AGM compatible) if you care about that.. - https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...fb/1070711_0_0

replacing these batteries every 3 years would still be cheaper than buying a new OEM.

The ones you linked are H6 size. Isn't our own H8?

So I'm seeing oem batteries listed on average for $225 at various bmw dealers but they all need to be picked up locally. They're not shipping because of hazmat.

My car was a single owner with 18k miles and it was on a battery tender for the majority of its life. It's at 25k miles now and this was the first real battery problem but I still think it was self induced on my part I care for it similarly when I'm not daily driving the car in terms of a battery tender and it's lasted almost 15 years now.

You guys are all just registering a new battery with the bimmer link app?

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

The ones you linked are H6 size. Isn't our own H8?

So I'm seeing oem batteries listed on average for $225 at various bmw dealers but they all need to be picked up locally. They're not shipping because of hazmat.

My car was a single owner with 18k miles and it was on a battery tender for the majority of it's life. It's at 25k miles now and this was the first real battery problem but I still think it was self induced on my part I care for it similarly when I'm not daily driving the car in terms of a battery tender and it's lasted almost 15 years now.

You guys are all just registering a new battery with the bimmer link app?

If you're getting an OEM battery with the same specifications, you won't need to code it. As for your H6 question, yes, it is still compatible but will require coding/registering. bimmerlink will be fine in this case if you need to code/register.

My bad also for pricing, i was looking at F8X OEM batteries in my previous response. The OEM batteries you're considering are usually priced around what you've mentioned. A complete install with OE parts at a dealership will likely come to probably sub $400.

15 years is an impressive for a battery, and it seems it lasted well until you attempted the induktive install.

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

If you're getting an OEM battery with the same specifications, you won't need to code it. As for your H6 question, yes, it is still compatible but will require coding/registering. bimmerlink will be fine in this case if you need to code/register.

My bad also for pricing, i was looking at F8X OEM batteries in my previous response. The OEM batteries you're considering are usually priced around what you've mentioned. A complete install with OE parts at a dealership will likely come to probably sub $400.

15 years is an impressive for a battery, and it seems it lasted well until you attempted the induktive install.

Yep you're correct. 475 plus tax out the door I just checked at the dealer. That E29 battery someone linked earlier above is what's recommend according to the dealer. They're selling it for $215 plus tax by itself

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

Yep you're correct. 475 plus tax out the door I just checked at the dealer. That E29 battery someone linked earlier above is what's recommend according to the dealer. They're selling it for $215 plus tax by itself

the battery is a simple DIY, but can be annoying. the top module is clipped into the battery so you need to unclip that before you remove the battery... so wear some mesh gloves. I've sliced my finger a few times bare handed doing that... learned my lesson.. after the 3rd time

then you will need to just lift with all your strength to get the battery out of its awkward position... after you unbolt the battery clamp thingy.

also make sure you plug everything back in as well... especially the IBS module.

[aus]

Anyone try the Interstate H6 or H7 AGM from Costco for $170?
.

[dmz_m3]

Battery on my 2013 recently started to give me the "low battery" warning whenever I would leave it sitting for a week or so. For anyone in Canada, I went to Costco and got an Energizer H8 AGM battery. 95AH and 900CCA. Installed it about a week ago and registered it with Bimmerlink. So far so good.

[mjhoiser]

I have a 2011 E90 M3 and just took ownership. The battery in the car was from 2020 and my Carly device said that the battery was getting only 65% deep charge. I did not want to gamble on this battery and get stranded.

Read through the forums a bit on Lithium Batteries vs Sealed Batteries. This took about two hours to install, has a back up jump start function, and ensures that you never get stranded.

Some folks chatted about issues in colder climate, but have seen none so far at 35F.

The recommendation from Antigravity was to register the battery as 40aH AGM and did so, but saw no difference.

[OmairK]

I wish I went the AG route. I put one in my Cayman and it performed flawlessly in the Northeast cold. This car was a daily driver though.

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by mjhoiser

I have a 2011 E90 M3 and just took ownership. The battery in the car was from 2020 and my Carly device said that the battery was getting only 65% deep charge. I did not want to gamble on this battery and get stranded.

Read through the forums a bit on Lithium Batteries vs Sealed Batteries. This took about two hours to install, has a back up jump start function, and ensures that you never get stranded.

Some folks chatted about issues in colder climate, but have seen none so far at 35F.

The recommendation from Antigravity was to register the battery as 40aH AGM and did so, but saw no difference.

Carly doesn’t register correctly on our cars

[MineralWhiteF80]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Carly doesn’t register correctly on our cars

yep, and to add to this annoying thing...

the lowest AGM setting available is "70 ah AGM." The 46 Ah setting is for lead acid. Anyone with the AntiGravity battery should be coding and registering the car as having an AGM battery.

I've tried to using NCS Expert to code to 70 Ah AGM setting and registering the battery through ISTA, but ISTA never shows the 70 Ah AGM setting (always stays at 90 Ah AGM). I got tired of it and quit, but it is something I need to try again.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

yep, and to add to this annoying thing...

the lowest AGM setting available is "70 ah AGM." The 46 Ah setting is for lead acid. Anyone with the AntiGravity battery should be coding and registering the car as having an AGM battery.

I've tried to using NCS Expert to code to 70 Ah AGM setting and registering the battery through ISTA, but ISTA never shows the 70 Ah AGM setting (always stays at 90 Ah AGM). I got tired of it and quit, but it is something I need to try again.

that doesn't make sense, the lowest AGM i was able to code when i had an H6-40 battery was 40AH AGM via protools.

which would be the lowest AGM setting possible for me via protools.

[mjhoiser]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

yep, and to add to this annoying thing...

the lowest AGM setting available is "70 ah AGM." The 46 Ah setting is for lead acid. Anyone with the AntiGravity battery should be coding and registering the car as having an AGM battery.

I've tried to using NCS Expert to code to 70 Ah AGM setting and registering the battery through ISTA, but ISTA never shows the 70 Ah AGM setting (always stays at 90 Ah AGM). I got tired of it and quit, but it is something I need to try again.

Interesting, thanks for the info on Carly. Did the incorrect registration make any difference in the operation of the car (high idle rev to charge for the incorrect registration) or battery operation for you?

[UPSROD]

I don't know why you guys keep talking H6,H7 batteries. Mine is an H8 AGM, .group 49, 92 ah