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07-20-2014, 06:37 PM | #1 |
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Adding amp and sub to EPS, searched to no avail
Yes I searched but threads were old that talked about a jbl processor and such. What is the current way to connect an aftermarket amp to all EPS speakers and to add a sub in the trunk? How is it done, optical? I don't want to code it for Hi-Fi. Midbass brand/driver best (rather not use earthquake as that is more sub-bass)
Last edited by 8k3; 07-20-2014 at 07:26 PM.. |
07-23-2014, 01:29 PM | #2 | |
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What you need is a Technic harness that will take the high level "sub" output from the OEM amp and convert it to low level. Then you can install an amp, feed the signal from the harness into the amp, and connect the speaker outputs back to the harness (which feeds the OEM speaker wires for under the seats). If you want to add a sub in the trunk, no problem, you can split the frequencies up at the amp. So you could get a 4-channel amp for example, two channels connected to the underseats, using the amp highpass filter to cut them off at say 70Hz, and the other two channels bridged to a trunk sub, using the low pass filter on the amp to let the sub play everything below 70Hz.
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07-23-2014, 01:41 PM | #3 |
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I forgot to add that the external amplification of the remaining speakers is probably not necessary after adding proper bass and mid bass to the system.
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07-23-2014, 02:01 PM | #4 |
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I would like to though. The front mids need more power imho. Also want to ditch the tweeters, too harsh and never can get them right, looking to upgrade them to something better. What about going the route of a processor, what's involved? Thanks for the reply!
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07-23-2014, 04:23 PM | #5 |
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I have read that the OEM amp will do better once you remove subwoofer duty. But if you want to change the sound characteristics of the mids and tweets, then the upgrade path is much more complicated. Are you an audiophile and do you care about things like staging, imaging, and a "flat" frequency response, or do you just want more volume?
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07-24-2014, 03:37 AM | #7 | |
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07-24-2014, 03:48 AM | #8 | |
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07-24-2014, 06:26 AM | #9 |
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Depends on your budget. You definitely need the Mobridge DA1 or DA2 unit unless you want to recode the HU to HiFi. Then a processor (either auto or self-tune), and an amp depending on power and amount of channels. You should search some Logic 7 upgrade examples to get ideas.
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07-24-2014, 08:20 AM | #10 | ||
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That said, how good is the MOST converts? I heard there was some popping and issues with one of them. Is the SQ top notch? |
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07-24-2014, 10:25 AM | #11 |
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SQ of the Mobridge converters is top notch. And yes, when you recode to HiFi you lose the EQ, but HiFi has it's own EQ fwir, maybe 5 band? Note that some people have had noise issues with HiFi head units.
What do you use as a source for your music? Have you read about using Airplay?
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07-24-2014, 11:31 AM | #12 | |
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07-24-2014, 11:45 AM | #13 |
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99% of my listening is via Airplay. The source is Spotify on the iPhone (premium account, 320kbps bitrate), then transferred digitally over wifi (airplay) to Airport Express, then external digital to analog converter, then into MS-8. If you have a processor with a digital input, you can skip the external DAC. Instead if airport express you can use the air enabler. Also, I believe they have apps now for Airplay to work on non-apple devices. This completely bypasses the OEM stereo system and produces a very high quality signal.
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07-24-2014, 12:25 PM | #14 | |
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07-24-2014, 02:22 PM | #15 |
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I have the Mobridge too so I can switch back and forth between iPhone and OEM HU via the MS-8 remote.
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