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      04-24-2024, 09:30 PM   #1805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
There's a simpler method to allow you to root cause this, assuming the car was working correctly before hand.

Unplug the fiber optic connection on the mr12volt unit while the car is on. Do you see red light coming out of the cable? You should. If you don't, its not the unit. Assuming you don't, work your way backwards from the spliter. Is there light coming from fiber optic connection on the vehicle harness? There should be. Remember, MOST is a loop. Each device sends the signal to the next device in the loop. When the loop is broken, you just need to walk back to where you lose signal.

For the coding question, I think where this is possibly confusing some people is the previous mr12 volt boxes connected differently, by tapping into canbus at the idrive controller. People are able to code CIC with these versions installed.

The new oem microphone version uses a quadlock adapter with the cic unit quadlock plug. Something about connecting this way appears to break the ability to code the CIC unit.
Thank you for clarifying the coding situation, and for the details on how to root cause the open MOST loop. I did the coding, then re-connected the Mr12Volt system and still had the same issue. Unplugging the FO connection at the unit I did not see any light. Even though I thought the connections were correct I think I did have the FO splitter installed wrong. I noticed that the vehicle harness FO connection does not output light when the system is on, but the CIC unit does. I think that I installed the original FO connection into the quad-lock adapter harness and the FO splitter into the CIC unit.

I appreciate your help here,
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      04-25-2024, 08:50 AM   #1806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGM3 View Post
I think that I installed the original FO connection into the quad-lock adapter harness and the FO splitter into the CIC unit.
Remove the Mr12Volt harnesses and plug the stock harness back into the CIC and see if your CIC is working and has sound.

Keep trying, sometimes you think its right but it's not, you just have to find it.
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      04-25-2024, 06:02 PM   #1807
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Hello

I have bought p600 for my e87 130i with CCC
(rotating screen) with
S609 Navigation System Professional
S644 Preparation F Mobile Phone W Bluetooth
S672 CD Changer For 6 CDs

Problem: the p600 gets power and connects to my phone, but the “CD” is greyed out on my drive screen.

i have tried everything,

- Connecting directly to factory fitted CDC at trunk of car,
-Connecting use Y loop behind my CCC in the dash
and done the loop on the CDC
- Random Fiber optic cable under glovebox being looped.
- checked all FO connects and correct direction
- seeing red light outputting everywhere correctly
- cds work in drive and CDC when reverting and shows in idrive as normal


other information , i have a MULF2 fitted at boot for factory phone bluetooth. I have no idea what’s working and Mr12 Volt doesn’t reply to me anymore
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      04-25-2024, 10:38 PM   #1808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Remove the Mr12Volt harnesses and plug the stock harness back into the CIC and see if your CIC is working and has sound.

Keep trying, sometimes you think its right but it's not, you just have to find it.
After messing around with the connections, I was able to get it to work. I think that I had the FO splitter routed incorrectly. Finished up the install yesterday and its working great.
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      04-26-2024, 12:29 PM   #1809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
There's a simpler method to allow you to root cause this, assuming the car was working correctly before hand.

Unplug the fiber optic connection on the mr12volt unit while the car is on. Do you see red light coming out of the cable? You should. If you don't, its not the unit. Assuming you don't, work your way backwards from the spliter. Is there light coming from fiber optic connection on the vehicle harness? There should be. Remember, MOST is a loop. Each device sends the signal to the next device in the loop. When the loop is broken, you just need to walk back to where you lose signal.

For the coding question, I think where this is possibly confusing some people is the previous mr12 volt boxes connected differently, by tapping into canbus at the idrive controller. People are able to code CIC with these versions installed.

The new oem microphone version uses a quadlock adapter with the cic unit quadlock plug. Something about connecting this way appears to break the ability to code the CIC unit.
drwankel So I just installed the mr12volt CIC in my car and did not catch the post about coding needs to be done prior to installing. I can't believe this is not included in the instructions from mr12volt. Using Bimmercode, I can confirm that I can no longer see the headunit module in Bimmercode. Do you know exactly what I must uninstall to do the coding? Is it just the quadlock or everything (quad lock, LVDS, MOST cable)?
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      04-26-2024, 12:32 PM   #1810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyspoke View Post
drwankel So I just installed the mr12volt CIC in my car and did not catch the post about coding needs to be done prior to installing. I can't believe this is not included in the instructions from mr12volt. Using Bimmercode, I can confirm that I can no longer see the headunit module in Bimmercode. Do you know exactly what I must uninstall to do the coding? Is it just the quadlock or everything (quad lock, LVDS, MOST cable)?
I dont own the new unit, but I would suspect that you would need to remove the quadlock adapter, put the most vehicle harness most connector back in the factory quadlock and reconnect to the CIC unit.

I dont think youd need to touch the LVDS stuff.
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      04-26-2024, 12:34 PM   #1811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
I dont own the new unit, but I would suspect that you would need to remove the quadlock adapter, put the most vehicle harness most connector back in the factory quadlock and reconnect to the CIC unit.

I dont think youd need to touch the LVDS stuff.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll be working on this tonight or tomorrow and post an update for everyone once I'm finished.

Last edited by greyspoke; 04-26-2024 at 12:36 PM.. Reason: grammar
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      04-27-2024, 10:08 AM   #1812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyspoke View Post
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll be working on this tonight or tomorrow and post an update for everyone once I'm finished.
Just to follow up as promised, got in the car today and mr12volt was recognized. No coding ended up being needed. I do not have a cd changer and the extra MOST loop cable was not used. I estimate that I started the car about 5 times since I did the hardware install before the car automatically recognized my “cd changer” aka the mr12volt.
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      05-01-2024, 03:00 PM   #1813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gh0stE92M3 View Post
Has there been an updated rear camera anyone recommends? Or is it still the one from before? I have the one that’s been posted before and haven’t installed it yet but I think I’m finally going to do it but wanted to see if there was a newer one that anyone recommends. I know people have claimed the camera low light vision sucks at night or during low light. So seeing if anyone is using one better?
Ditto this question. I have an old camera from my AlekShop box and trying to figure out if I can reuse, or need to get new camera (and rerun the new wires )
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      05-06-2024, 10:40 AM   #1814
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Mr12volt Greenyi backup camera issue

Is anyone experiencing video signal issues using the recommended Greenyi backup camera? My video picture is grainy, black and white, and doubled (see picture). I have a CIC 6MT with a trigger wire connecting the mr12volt to the reverse lights. Power to the camera is supplied from mr12volt along the power line integrated within the included video cable. As recommended here, the camera is left ungrounded.

TIA
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      05-06-2024, 10:12 PM   #1815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsant View Post
Is anyone experiencing video signal issues using the recommended Greenyi backup camera? My video picture is grainy, black and white, and doubled (see picture). I have a CIC 6MT with a trigger wire connecting the mr12volt to the reverse lights. Power to the camera is supplied from mr12volt along the power line integrated within the included video cable. As recommended here, the camera is left ungrounded.

TIA
you need to install a 12v rectifier to stabilize the power source to the rear camera.
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      Yesterday, 08:20 AM   #1816
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I started having this issue a few days ago. When I start my car, it just goes to the cd changer screen. I can't get into the Mr.12volt menu. I got to the actual module and pressed the little reset button, even tried unplugging it. Still just get this screen. Any suggestions?

EDIT: I disconnected my car's battery for a few min. Once I reconnected it and powered everything on, the Mr 12volt fired right up. This has happened to me a few times recently, hopefully it's not a forever thing.
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      Yesterday, 06:16 PM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mare92 View Post
EDIT: IT WORKS REALLY GOOD! I connected it to the wrong port (aux on mr12volt, not on quadlock) at first, so that is why the mic was terrible:


Installed it, microphone quality over OEM system is same as before, but if I switch to CarPlay mode which is connected via splitter to AUX port on Mr12Volt unit, the person on the other side can hardly understand me, so it seems it is not any better than on your old systems… any suggestions?

This is the System info, guess it is the latest…


Software: Box-260 V3.14.00.1010
Hardware: 02-0010-06-00-00-05-00-00
System:
Mr12volt 2022-06-18
BlueTooth : BT825B,V5.6.6 MCU:
bmwCIC_20230206B

Also, what is the proper way to ground and power chinese backup camera using Mr12Volt? I installed the included yellow video cable, which have 2 short wires on each side, but don’t know where to connect it or if I need to wire another power wire through entire car?

Little help for other people wanting to do the install:
a) Coding is possible using Protool from Bimmergeeks. You need to select Entertainment, Radio, Code, Edit, Advanced menu, use the search function to look for “CD Changer”. You change it to CD Changer with MP3, then click code.

b) For E93, microphone location is indeed behind steering wheel…
- skip to 20:40 and watch how to dissasemble it. Then you can use the splitter and run the cable to quadlock on Mr12Volt Unit

c) It took me and my friend 2 hours to do it and it was first time to do anything like that, using only
(it is too quick, set it to 0,25 speed in Youtube) and video that I linked under b) for E93 mic.
Just wanted to say thank you for posting all this info. I used your guidance to complete the installation on my E93 335i. The install went without a hitch. I tucked the quadlock on the lower right side, below and to the right of the cage. This allowed me to get the radio back in easily on my first try.

I also was able to code the CD changer successfully with ProTool using your suggestion. While I was there, I also installed the GreenYi 720p AHD rear view camera, and the picture is great. I did need to extend the video and power cables about 2 feet thoguh. The E93 requires a longer cable to follow the routing for the convertible mechanism, and the GreenYi camera's cable was just a touch too short.

Wireless Android Auto worked perfectly on the first try simply by pairing Bluetooth. The car did all the rest to get AA running. So far the sound quality is much better than the AUX cable I had used before.

Finally, I installed the Inductiv wireless charger in place of the factory cigarette lighter tray, and it really completes the package to modernize the interior. It supports wireless fast charging as well, so no worries about losing power while running AA.
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      Yesterday, 09:18 PM   #1818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@Evolve View Post
1 - https://www.evolveautomotive.co.uk/collections/mr12volt

2 - GreenYi from Aliexpress

3 - You will need CD Changer to be coded in if you do not have one.
Which GreenYi, for E90 M3, seems, like there are multiple versions?
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