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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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E90 Used Car Buying Guide?
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09-28-2014, 09:37 PM | #1 |
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E90 Used Car Buying Guide?
So to start off, Im in the market for a 2007-2010 used BMW 3 Series Sedan 328i (i am not considering the 335i due to insurance cost over the 328i). My budget is around $15,000 - $19,000 and I'm looking for a car at around 30k - 60k miles max. I would love to hear from you guys on any tips, guides or suggestions as to this approach for my first car. What should I expect to break first and how to fix it instead of going to the dealer. Thanks for any help!
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09-29-2014, 01:20 PM | #3 |
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I would start by posting this question at E90post...you'll get a lot more feedback over there as there's a lot more traffic...and E90 owners.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/index.php Most stuff is fixable - I would make sure you buy one that has the packages/options that you want as most of those are difficult and expensive to add later. And make sure you get a PPI done - those would be my recommendations to start. |
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10-07-2014, 12:04 PM | #4 |
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im a 335i man myself but when shopping for any bmw look for low mileage clean title and if at all possible a certified pre owned
i see that your south florida thier is a good internet based company in daytona called spanos take a look there they usually have a extensive selection Last edited by 335iguy247; 10-07-2014 at 12:18 PM.. |
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10-07-2014, 05:41 PM | #10 |
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I wish I had had the following info before buying an E90:
In 2007, the 3 liter car was degraded from 255 (called 330) to 230 HP (called 328), and the rotors were made smaller, all to encourage people to buy a 335 instead. In 2010, the car was further degraded in multiple ways. For example: The coolant temp gauge was discontinued. The hood blanket to mellow engine sound was discontinued. The nettings to hold magazines/maps behind the front seats were discontinued. All tools except the screwdriver and tow hook were discontinued. Also, compared with the previous model (E46), the car's waistline grew significantly (2 inches longer and 3 inches wider). Weight was up, but use of Mg and Al made the increase small. I believe all E90 328s lack a spare tire (but do have run-flats, which for each disadvantage actually have an advantage over regular tires in my view). Sadly, the car doesn't even have a dipstick! Oil level can be checked in 2 different ways, but it's more cumbersone, requires a hot engine, and leaves me mourning the loss of the dipstick. all E90 328s equipped with automatics have old-fashioned slush box torque converters. We needed an automatic, but if I had to do it all over, I would have gotten a later model 335, which has a related transmission but at least has enough zip to overcome the sluggishness of the torque converter. I believe that the comments about getting the sport package by 2 posters above should be taken seriously. It might have been an F30 review--I can't remember--but one car magazine said the sport package was so critical that not getting it meant you essentially had the ride of a Camry. Perhaps a worse criticism could be made, but off hand I can't think of one. To assess reliability, besides looking at Consumer Reports, consider going to TrueDelta.com. Joining is free. Had I to do it all over, I would have hunted for a car without the navigation system. It's complicated, expensive, will probably break as quickly as a Garmin but cost a fortune to fix, and isn't there when you need it most--in a rental car in a place you're not familiar with. Plugging in the ol' $150 Garmin that fits in your pocket is, from my perspective, a better way to go. It's also vastly less complicated to use. If you want park assist and the car you find doesn't have it, it can be added after market for cheap from some places that sell car stereos and alarm systems. Whatever you might be told, the window regulator problem that plagued previous 3 series BMWs was not fixed in the E90. Figure about $400 a pop if you don't do it yourself. We've gone through 4 of them in previous 3 series cars. Which raises the issue . . . have something sitting in the bank. These are not Toyotas or Hondas. They break and can be expensive to fix. Good luck in your hunt. Last edited by 2015cs; 10-07-2014 at 05:53 PM.. |
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10-07-2014, 05:50 PM | #11 |
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Drives: AW 07 e92 335i + AW 11 X5 35d
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First thing is to buy the car you want. I'd personally shoot for a 2009 model as that was the LCI models for the e90 (looks much better).
The biggest thing I can suggest is to learn how to use the OBDII cable to read error codes and clearing them (via INPA / etc). First things to go on the N52 motors will be the oil housing gasket, valve cover gasket, maybe a coil pack, and water pump. It'll be hit or miss when you run into those issues. Don't drive a 335i if you're set on a 328i. |
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10-10-2014, 08:45 PM | #12 |
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also 335is are notorious for wastegate issues that result in turbo failure on the older models they went to a single turbo on the new years and helped to illiminate issues but the twins have almost a 100 percent fail rate if you go 335i ask if it has had the warrenty tubo swap done if not listen closley for the tell tale waste gate rattle on a cold start when you rev to about 3k rpm they are a pricey thing to pay out of pocket for you are looking at about 6k with parts and labor if it is under 8 years old or 82k miles the dealership will do a good will replacement on the turbos
Last edited by 335iguy247; 10-14-2014 at 07:27 AM.. |
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10-11-2014, 12:12 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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10-11-2014, 05:01 AM | #14 |
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Drives: 09 328i Sport 6MT
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Location: Baltimore, MD
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I'm selling my 2009 sport package 328i.
It's a manual, and has about 62xxx miles on it in excellent shape. It's in New York, but you can fly up and drive it back! I'm doing a little road trip this weekend....love the car but don't need it really. PM me if interested |
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