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      10-09-2014, 08:52 AM   #133
da jemster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Visual inspection is pretty much worthless. Of course it's going to change color.
Yep, considering there was still over 4 quarts of the OEM fluid in the unit.
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      10-09-2014, 09:46 AM   #134
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Aren't those lines known to leak as well?
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      10-10-2014, 09:05 PM   #135
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Hey da_jemster - That is a bummer. I can't image the oil on the lines coming from the pan. My pan was pretty coated, but the rest of the transmission was dry. Since you ordered the o rings and pan, you might as well replace the pressure filter while you are at it. Try running the car in park and see if you can isolate the leak. It may only be the pressure lines??

Let me know if I can help. I just had hernia surgery, so I'm not crawling under cars for a little while, but I can direct pretty well and have some tools that I purchased for my DCT service that I could loan you.

Good luck.

Last edited by SimiM3; 10-13-2014 at 10:43 PM..
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      10-10-2014, 09:32 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimiM3 View Post
Hey da_jemster - That is a bummer. I can't image the oil on the lines coming from the pan. My pan was pretty coated, but the rest of the transmission was dry. Since you ordered the o rings and pan, you might as well replace the pressure filter while your at it. Try running the car in park and see if you can isolate the leak. It may only be the pressure lines??

Let me know if I can help. I just had hernia surgery, so I'm not crawling under cars for a little while, but I can direct pretty well and have some tools that I purchased for my DCT service that I could loan you.

Good luck.
Mike, I'm finding it difficult to get that darn c-ring off. At about my 30th time in trying, the snap ring pliers "snapped"! I'm finding it quite difficult laying on my back and exerting some force-plus-angle to get it off.

Good news is that I think I found the source. Remember on my previous post that I had unbolted the oil line assembly (where screw #10 in diagram goes into). I didn't see that there are 2 port holes to the side of that assembly. I must've not tightened that bolt properly as the leaks was coming from those holes. We'll see in a few hundred miles if I'm right.

As for now, off to Autozone to replace that snap ring pliers.
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      10-17-2014, 07:06 PM   #137
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Hey da jemster,

Attached is the TIS for the torque pattern for the transmission pan.


E90-REP-28-02-020 Removing or installing transmission oil sump.pdf

good luck!

Mike
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      10-20-2014, 11:59 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimiM3 View Post
Hey da jemster,

Attached is the TIS for the torque pattern for the transmission pan.


Attachment 1105938

good luck!

Mike
Thank you!
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      10-29-2014, 06:47 PM   #139
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Whew...I was worried that I had been running it with the fluid level too low. Now comparing Mike's (SimiM3) and my report, how come our "Universal Averages" differ? Shouldn't Blackstone keep them consistent?

BTW, the clanking sound that started this all was two very, very small rocks/pebbles stuck between the rotor and dust shield.
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Last edited by da jemster; 10-29-2014 at 06:52 PM..
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      10-30-2014, 01:52 PM   #140
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wow
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      11-14-2014, 03:11 PM   #141
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After reading this thread, it looks like blackstone reports suggest that used oil was ok in most cases and changing it wasnt really necessary.
Some members had problems during this procedure, changing filters looks very tricky, also filling the system and checking the oil level correctly seems to be difficult.
I dont know, maybe i am wrong, but i will probably stay away from opening the factory sealed system till at least 70K miles.
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      02-08-2015, 02:59 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
After reading this thread, it looks like blackstone reports suggest that used oil was ok in most cases and changing it wasnt really necessary.
Some members had problems during this procedure, changing filters looks very tricky, also filling the system and checking the oil level correctly seems to be difficult.
I dont know, maybe i am wrong, but i will probably stay away from opening the factory sealed system till at least 70K miles.
I completely agree with you on that one. There is a reason why BMW says that our DCT oil is lifetime. I also have a friend who is a BMW tech and he even puts such a strong emphasis on how one should not change DCT oil because he claims that the DCT oil put in the vehicle at the time of manufacture at the factory has different additives which we will not get from quarts of BMW DCT oil.
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      05-05-2015, 08:27 PM   #143
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doing this on the weekend! Thanks
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      12-02-2015, 11:40 AM   #144
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Hoping to revive an old thread and get a few more details regarding the procedure for changing the two DCT filters. What size torx screws hold the transmission pan in place, and what are the torque values? For the canister filter, what tool to use after you remove the snap ring to unscrew the round black plastic cap? Any known torque value for this?
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      12-06-2015, 09:23 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wifesbimmer View Post
I also have a friend who is a BMW tech and he even puts such a strong emphasis on how one should not change DCT oil because he claims that the DCT oil put in the vehicle at the time of manufacture at the factory has different additives which we will not get from quarts of BMW DCT oil.
I don't buy that at all. The factory fill is Pentosin FFL-4 (called BMW DCTF-1), which is exactly what they sell at the parts counter in case a DCT gets replaced. Why would BMW intentionally offer an inferior product at the parts counter?

There are several aftermarket fluids that meet DCTF-1, by the way, meaning they have at least the same performance as the OEM fluid if not better.
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      12-07-2015, 07:02 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
I don't buy that at all. The factory fill is Pentosin FFL-4 (called BMW DCTF-1), which is exactly what they sell at the parts counter in case a DCT gets replaced. Why would BMW intentionally offer an inferior product at the parts counter?

There are several aftermarket fluids that meet DCTF-1, by the way, meaning they have at least the same performance as the OEM fluid if not better.
The Pentosin slogan: "You can buy better, but you can't pay more!"
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      04-12-2016, 11:02 PM   #147
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DCT Fluid from 2011 135i

I did the trans pan+ 2 filters on my 135i DCT and just received my Blackstone Report from my Fluid Sample. I have 114,500 mostly freeway miles + 2 autocross events on the DCT and have never changed the fluid. I was very curious about how it held up, and you can see for yourself below.
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A few things I noticed in the difference between other DCT's mentioned in this thread vs. the DCT from my 135i. There was no need to move the hoses/tubes to get to the side filter. This made the job a bit easier, although I as well broke a set of snap ring pliers removing the filter.
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My pan wasn't leaking too bad but I thought it would be best to swap it out. Here are a few pics from the job below as well.
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      04-21-2016, 02:58 AM   #148
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That is damn impressive man!

I just did mine today and I only put back in 2 1/2 quarts. I feel paranoid about not having enough but the car drove just fine.
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      04-21-2016, 04:46 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaackle View Post
That is damn impressive man!

I just did mine today and I only put back in 2 1/2 quarts. I feel paranoid about not having enough but the car drove just fine.
That's odd. Did you go through the gears with the engine on and get it up to temperature? Did you do filters too, or just fluid?
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      04-21-2016, 05:19 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maaaaackle View Post
That is damn impressive man!

I just did mine today and I only put back in 2 1/2 quarts. I feel paranoid about not having enough but the car drove just fine.

Hmm, that seems rather low. From what I read on here, most people get around 4 quarts back in there, give or take.

The car would probably drive fine with low fluid level, but as soon as anything sloshes around you might starve the pickup. Remember that the sump always holds excess fluid for diluting contaminants, reducing risk of starvation, bleeding off heat, etc.
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      05-02-2016, 03:28 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Hmm, that seems rather low. From what I read on here, most people get around 4 quarts back in there, give or take.

The car would probably drive fine with low fluid level, but as soon as anything sloshes around you might starve the pickup. Remember that the sump always holds excess fluid for diluting contaminants, reducing risk of starvation, bleeding off heat, etc.
FYI, he changed out fluid in a 135i, search indicates 135 is equipped with GS7D36SG tranny which may have a different capacity.
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      05-02-2016, 04:05 PM   #152
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Quote:
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FYI, he changed out fluid in a 135i, search indicates 135 is equipped with GS7D36SG tranny which may have a different capacity.
According to this article, it's the same:
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=360259

As I understand it, it's the same unit (lifted from the E92 along with the suspension and some other parts).
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      05-02-2016, 11:56 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
According to this article, it's the same:
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=360259

As I understand it, it's the same unit (lifted from the E92 along with the suspension and some other parts).
Interesting, post 4 of the link above identifies GS7D36SG as the tranny in the OP for the M3. I had previously read up a bit on the M3 DCT and had concluded it was the 7DCI600 -> http://www.bmwblog.com/2010/04/04/wo...mission-build/

Info I found, post #3 identifies the 135i tranny to be GS7D36SG. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=487959
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      05-03-2016, 08:42 AM   #154
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Isn't GS7 what all of the guys refer to when flashing the GTS software?

I have also seen the above 7DCI600 referenced. That's the standard Getrag naming scheme -- Ferrari uses the 650 in the 458 Italia, I believe. Maybe the GS7 is BMW's internal name?
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