Replacing rod bearings after blackstone report

[FOURSIXTEEN]

So i just received my report back it is attached below. 08 e90 m3 with 78k miles no track events and car has lived in texas its whole life. i am the second owner with the first being a local doctor here in the DFW area. I drive fairly aggressive not that that worsened the problem, but just wanted to throw that out there, however i do let the car warm up stationary for ten minutes when cold and drive under 4k till at temp. been changing oil every 5000 miles with the stock stuff, but i am going to motul 0w30 with new bearings.

Texas track works here in fort worth texas will be doing the replacment this next monday. doing coated bearings from EAS and also was told i needed to replace rob bolts so i ordered ARP bolts from EAS as well. parts alone (bearings, bolts, oil) was about $980 after a paid extra for 3 day shipping. I believe i am looking at roughly a grand in labor so lets just say 2k all together.

i will update the tread with the used bearing pictures ASAP on monday as they come out of the car so there is one more reference for everyone to go by. the cost is about what everyone else has mentioned at the 2k range out the door.

[Killerfish2012]

I personally would have just switched to Mobil 1 0W40, and left it at that. Especially if there are no unusual noises coming from the engine. Coated bearings won't give off lead, so future oil analysis won't be able to warn you if there is a problem.

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

I personally would have just switched to Mobil 1 0W40, and left it at that. Especially if there are no unusual noises coming from the engine. Coated bearings won't give off lead, so future oil analysis won't be able to warn you if there is a problem.

+1, sounds like coated bearings might make things worse. I would have at least gone with the WPC treatment, but really who knows.

[gatorfast]

You start the car and just let it sit for 10 minutes every time? Why? The owners manual specifically states not to do that.

Also, why will you be switching to 0w-30? Never heard of any M3 owners using that grade.

[Gossypiboma]

Originally Posted by gatorfast

You start the car and just let it sit for 10 minutes every time? Why? The owners manual specifically states not to do that.

And why do you think that is? Idling the car to warm up is somehow bad for the motor? There is no reason you cannot let your car warm up by idling besides being aware that the tranny is still cold when you first drive.

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by BigBoosting

And why do you think that is? Idling the car to warm up is somehow bad for the motor? There is no reason you cannot let your car warm up by idling besides being aware that the tranny is still cold when you first drive.

I was always taught that fuel can more easily contaminate the oil when idling cold; maybe engine design has changed over the years.

[FOURSIXTEEN]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

I personally would have just switched to Mobil 1 0W40, and left it at that. Especially if there are no unusual noises coming from the engine. Coated bearings won't give off lead, so future oil analysis won't be able to warn you if there is a problem.

thanks for the opinion thats a good point.

Originally Posted by gatorfast

You start the car and just let it sit for 10 minutes every time? Why? The owners manual specifically states not to do that.

seriously? seems backwards....


Also, why will you be switching to 0w-30? Never heard of any M3 owners using that grade.

i meant 0w40 sorry my mistake

Originally Posted by thekurgan

+1, sounds like coated bearings might make things worse. I would have at least gone with the WPC treatment, but really who knows.

i got WPC treated bearing from eas

[FOURSIXTEEN]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

+1, sounds like coated bearings might make things worse. I would have at least gone with the WPC treatment, but really who knows.

WPC coated? will make it worse? i was under the assumption they didnt make it any tighter? but i may be wrong. i figued between all the bearing issues on here and blackstone labs reports that i was easily in the realm lead wise to do a replacement, but if you guys think not thats an important opinion to investigate if switching to 0w40 is all the majority thinks i should do. i just viewed it as preventative maintenance and better to spend 2k then 20k kinda deal.

[W///]

Originally Posted by FOURSIXTEEN

WPC coated? will make it worse? i was under the assumption they didnt make it any tighter? but i may be wrong. i figued between all the bearing issues on here and blackstone labs reports that i was easily in the realm lead wise to do a replacement, but if you guys think not thats an important opinion to investigate if switching to 0w40 is all the majority thinks i should do. i just viewed it as preventative maintenance and better to spend 2k then 20k kinda deal.

WPC is good. It's not a coated bearing. You'll be fine if you run that with 0W40, that's the best way to go (IMHO of course).

[vastano]

Originally Posted by FOURSIXTEEN

WPC coated? will make it worse? i was under the assumption they didnt make it any tighter? but i may be wrong. i figued between all the bearing issues on here and blackstone labs reports that i was easily in the realm lead wise to do a replacement, but if you guys think not thats an important opinion to investigate if switching to 0w40 is all the majority thinks i should do. i just viewed it as preventative maintenance and better to spend 2k then 20k kinda deal.

4 oil changes ago, my lead reading was 28ppm. After that I switched to 0W-40 and havent had a reading above 5ppm.

I have an extended warranty to 100k so im not sweating it too much if the bearings do fail.

[FOURSIXTEEN]

Originally Posted by W///

WPC is good. It's not a coated bearing. You'll be fine if you run that with 0W40, that's the best way to go (IMHO of course).

Oh okay my mistake on saying coated then, thanks for the correction.

Originally Posted by vastano

4 oil changes ago, my lead reading was 28ppm. After that I switched to 0W-40 and havent had a reading above 5ppm.

I have an extended warranty to 100k so im not sweating it too much if the bearings do fail.

Yeah if i had that i may do the same as well. it may still be worth a try though, i will ask texas track works about it. thanks.

Thanks for all the replies and input guys!

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by FOURSIXTEEN

WPC coated? will make it worse? i was under the assumption they didnt make it any tighter? but i may be wrong. i figued between all the bearing issues on here and blackstone labs reports that i was easily in the realm lead wise to do a replacement, but if you guys think not thats an important opinion to investigate if switching to 0w40 is all the majority thinks i should do. i just viewed it as preventative maintenance and better to spend 2k then 20k kinda deal.

Because of all the alarmists online, people tend to think the engine will just grenade out of no where. Long before this happens, the type of noise your engine will start making will more than forewarn you that failure is imminent. If you don't even have the faintest abnormal engine noise, then you're just throwing away 2K. I've posted this video about 5 times now, but this is what an S65 sounds like in the late end stages of bearing failure:

[FOURSIXTEEN]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Because of all the alarmists online, people tend to think the engine will just grenade out of no where. Long before this happens, the type of noise your engine will start making will more than forewarn you that failure is imminent. If you don't even have the faintest abnormal engine noise, then you're just throwing away 2K. I've posted this video about 5 times now, but this is what an S65 sounds like in the late end stages of bearing failure:

Thanks, again this is great feedback and I am considering this too. Thanks for posting this vid. I have absolutely no noise as of now.

It wasn't really the cost of the whole thing but more of the peace of mind, but I didn't realize I may be jumping the gun by a bit

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by vastano

4 oil changes ago, my lead reading was 28ppm. After that I switched to 0W-40 and havent had a reading above 5ppm.

I have an extended warranty to 100k so im not sweating it too much if the bearings do fail.

Similar situation here and I just switched to M1 on my recent fill.

Can you post your reports? I'm curious to see what the lead amounts looked like after each sample.

Thanks

[vastano]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

Similar situation here and I just switched to M1 on my recent fill.

Can you post your reports? I'm curious to see what the lead amounts looked like after each sample.

Thanks

all but my most recent one is in the mile long blackstone thread.

It can just tell ya:

Mileage Lead PPM
55897 28 <----10w60, switched to 0w-40 after this
60531 6
66690 5

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by vastano

all but my most recent one is in the mile long blackstone thread.

It can just tell ya:

Mileage Lead PPM
55897 28 <----10w60, switched to 0w-40 after this
60531 6
66690 5

wow, thanks for this info. I was more interest in reading their written analysis or whether they attribute the drop to the switch to M1. I'll dig for your posts then...

[vastano]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

wow, thanks for this info. I was more interest in reading their written analysis or whether they attribute the drop to the switch to M1. I'll dig for your posts then...

PM me your email, ill just send them

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by vastano

PM me your email, ill just send them

no need, I was able to find it here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...310230&page=10

thanks again! Now I need to wait 5-months for my analysis on M1

[vastano]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

no need, I was able to find it here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...310230&page=10

thanks again! Now I need to wait 5-months for my analysis on M1

ok, i have yet to post my latest, ill try and do that tonight

[s85e90]

Originally Posted by BigBoosting

And why do you think that is? Idling the car to warm up is somehow bad for the motor? There is no reason you cannot let your car warm up by idling besides being aware that the tranny is still cold when you first drive.

you do want to warm everything up together.

[Devant]

So many things wrong here:

First, no one should decide to change their bearings off of one blackstone report. You need to have a baseline and several reports to formulate a trend analysis and see how the engine is faring.

Second Motul 0w-30? Where did you get that this oil was okay to use, especially with new bearings? You need to use a special break-in oil with zinc and then switch back to 10w-60 or M1 0w-40 (if you believe all the reports on M1)

Third why are you letting the car idle for 10 minutes. That is the single biggest contributor to worn engine internals. You are basically running the engine starved of oil. Start the car wait 30 seconds and begin driving. This will allow oil to circulate everywhere it needs to go inside the engine, especially the top of the engine.

[Z K]

It is probably not a bad idea to replace the bearings as they are probably worn.

As others have mentioned, a thinner oil can reduce further wear. But it won't fix the wear that has already occurred. It's merely a band aid at this point.

It depends how preventative you want to be.

If you do replace the bearings, please take some pictures and let us know how they look when it comes out!