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      09-20-2014, 08:02 PM   #23
douglee25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFKN3 View Post
To have metal shavings in the filter and oil pan is incredibly bad news. I wouldn't even bother waiting. I would even suggest taking it back to the dealer.
Well I had another issue that I went back to the dealer with the day following the purchase. The dealer did send me a check for a few bucks, but nothing substantial. In fact I was very disappointed. The car was purchased in North Carolina. They have no 'used car lemon law' and the car was purchased 'as is' which the dealer noted about every other sentence when I was negotiating some sort of refunde. They claimed they made $92 dollars after they refunded me some coin. I'm confident they are going to tell me to pound sand if I were to even bring this to their attention.


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Originally Posted by MFKN3 View Post
Also, no noises or rod knock doesn't mean all is good. All local engines that have let go here, all happened immediately and unexpectedly and damage the blocks, rods and crank. It's a real gamble
Good point.

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Originally Posted by ///mawana View Post
This! Even if you don't have warranty, do you get 3000 miles limited warranty in PA?
It was purchased in NC. Nothing available on used vehicle purchases.

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Originally Posted by jimk View Post
If it was my car, I would already have made an appointment to have the bearings at least checked and possibly replaced. I don't gamble with $20K motors.
I have already been in contact with the shop that will probably do the work on the car. I would do it myself but I have no room in the tiny garage in this apartment complex since my temp move. I hate not having a big garage like my old house. Either way, I guess I will start sourcing parts.

Gotta love this shit after you put out good money on a purchase. Pain in the dick.

Doug
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      09-20-2014, 08:28 PM   #24
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Doug, ~$2000 is less than a lot of the things you will buy for this car. All worth it. The peace of mind will be worth it too.
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      09-20-2014, 08:40 PM   #25
douglee25
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Yeah I hear you. Money isn't the issue, it's more of a principal thing for me.

With that said, where is the best place to purchase the parts?

Doug
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      09-20-2014, 10:03 PM   #26
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There's several vendors. I'm nearest EAS in Anaheim. If you look at their website it shows the bearing kit you want to buy, where ever you buy it.
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      09-22-2014, 04:29 PM   #27
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Well I dropped the car off at the shop who's doing the work while I'm out of town on business.

I figured now is an opportune time as any. I have about 700 miles on the oil since changing it. I am going to send it to Blackstone for kicks just to see how things looked in the past few miles.

Hopefully no damage to the crank is done at this point and I can enjoy the car for another 100k miles.

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      09-22-2014, 04:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
Well I dropped the car off at the shop who's doing the work while I'm out of town on business.

I figured now is an opportune time as any. I have about 700 miles on the oil since changing it. I am going to send it to Blackstone for kicks just to see how things looked in the past few miles.

Hopefully no damage to the crank is done at this point and I can enjoy the car for another 100k miles.

Doug
Fingers crossed! Keep the forum informed and any pics would help.
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      09-30-2014, 04:36 PM   #29
douglee25
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Shop sent me a link to the pictures. I will post things here later when I get some time to write the thread. I'm traveling until Friday, so I won't have time to pick it up until then.

Bottom line - I'm glad I had it done. I will also be sending in the oil sample just to see what it says. The oil only had 700 miles on it between the last change, so I don't know if it'll tell much.

Doug
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      09-30-2014, 10:22 PM   #30
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I would just caution people about relying on oil analysis. If it shows lead or copper then it is a cause for worry, but the absence of lead or copper does not mean anything.

The Blackstone UOA is designed to tell you how your oil is doing, not how your engine is doing. It's been demonstrated on BITOG that it's very possible to have a clean oil analysis and then blow an engine right after.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=3068242
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      10-01-2014, 03:05 AM   #31
douglee25
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Which is what was mentioned in the original post about 'trending' vs one data point.

Funny thing is, 90%+ of those with lead readings off the chart have rod bearings that look like shit.

Doug
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      10-01-2014, 09:22 AM   #32
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Ok here's the formal post with pictures....

I will probably post this elsewhere in some of the rod bearing threads.

Edit - WPC bearings and ARP rod bolts were used.

I would like to give a shout to the shop who did the work -

Bolt Motorsports - Richardson, Texas - Just outside of Dallas.


http://www.boltmotorsports.com/

They specialize in exotics and other high horsepower cars like vettes, etc. Coulter Dean has a soft spot for BMW's, so he had no problem taking in my E90.

Bolt Motorsports appears to do some methodical work. I couldn't have done the labeling or pictures better myself.

Onto the pictures....I'm glad I had things done. Coulter mentioned that it appeared my pan was off at some point because they found some gasket scraping marks. It's also possible the bearings may have been swapped before, but it can't be said for certain.










Last edited by douglee25; 10-01-2014 at 09:41 AM..
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      10-01-2014, 09:56 AM   #33
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The bearing photos would be a clearer without the oil residue on some of them...but anyway, whatever was the cause of metal shavings in the oil it wasn't coming from the bearings.
I wouldn't be surprised if these weren't the original OEM bearings given that they look like they have too much crush.
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      10-01-2014, 09:59 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants View Post
The bearing photos would be a clearer without the oil residue on some of them...but anyway, whatever was the cause of metal shavings in the oil it wasn't coming from the bearings.
Huh? That's exactly the material found in the pan and or filter pleats?

Doug
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      10-01-2014, 10:20 AM   #35
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It appears that the bearing's lead layer is intact (albeit worn and except at the parting line)...its an incredible thin layer plus the oil analysis shows a lead content of parts per million...you would not be able to see PPM of lead as metal shavings...I doubt you would able to see the lead even as particles in the oil.
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      10-01-2014, 10:24 AM   #36
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+1 although hard to see from 2d pics alone, If you're seeing metal in the oil it's probaly from something else. This would actually be the second set of bearings that looked "OK" in the past few weeks. I hope you flushed everything and flushed or replaced the oil cooler. At least change the oil a couple more times just to be sure you're not still getting shavings.
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      10-01-2014, 10:58 AM   #37
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Keep in mind this could be the second set of bearings in the engine based on the shop's comments. I disagree they looked 'OK'. Maybe I can take some better pictures once they are in my possession.

Also to clarify, the 'shaving' is more of a spec or flake that I found. It's so small but I'm fairly confident it's from the bearings. It's quite possible a piece flaked off the edge of the bearings and dropped to the pan (cylinder 7 or 8?).

Doug
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      10-01-2014, 11:16 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
Keep in mind this could be the second set of bearings in the engine based on the shop's comments. I disagree they looked 'OK'. Maybe I can take some better pictures once they are in my possession.
True they could be #2 so that's a possibility and when I say OK, I mean "ok" in quotes as eh, not terrible. At least you know new stuff is in there now.


[QUOTE=
Also to clarify, the 'shaving' is more of a spec or flake that I found. It's so small but I'm fairly confident it's from the bearings. It's quite possible a piece flaked off the edge of the bearings and dropped to the pan (cylinder 7 or 8?).

Doug[/QUOTE]

Last edited by s85e90; 10-01-2014 at 11:26 AM..
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      10-01-2014, 02:56 PM   #39
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Man that car got around. You're from Philly, your car was from NC and it was fixed in TX?

Why did you pick a shop in TX?
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      10-01-2014, 02:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILSMKU View Post
Man that car got around. You're from Philly, your car was from NC and it was fixed in TX?

Why did you pick a shop in TX?
Ha! Originally from outside of Philadelphia. Moved recently and forgot to change the location. I did drive it back from NC and the car was originally from FL. So yes, the car does get around.

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      10-02-2014, 07:11 AM   #41
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Here's a link to the rod bearing replacement thread.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...4#post16720744

Doug
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