Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Started up and drove the M3 in 11F ambient weather this morning. Smooth as butter, with a lively response. I think I'll stick to M1 0W40 for now all year round, and just go with 5-6K oil change intervals. Again, I can't even imagine what it would be like to start up and drive with 10W 60 in these conditions. IMHO the oil weight recommendation from the factory should have been at least 5W 50 to accommodate those living in cold climates. The Total 10W 50 that was drained from my car looked fine at 6,700 miles. The color wasn't black, but brown, and it looked thick draining from the car.

I dont drive that much so it gets changed every 4k miles.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Started up and drove the M3 in 11F ambient weather this morning. Smooth as butter, with a lively response. I think I'll stick to M1 0W40 for now all year round, and just go with 5-6K oil change intervals. Again, I can't even imagine what it would be like to start up and drive with 10W 60 in these conditions. IMHO the oil weight recommendation from the factory should have been at least 5W 50 to accommodate those living in cold climates. The Total 10W 50 that was drained from my car looked fine at 6,700 miles. The color wasn't black, but brown, and it looked thick draining from the car.

I change mine at 5k, less if I know it's been to the track and lots of mountain runs. The oil only costs like $50 for 10 quarts. Add $20 for filters (I think that's what they go for?) and it's definitely cheap insurance to change.

If you for some reason aren't comfortable running it during track season, just run M1 for fall and winter only. My car is already struggling to warm up at 30F ambient, so I don't even know what it'd do up North

[checkmate]

Originally Posted by W///

I change mine at 5k, less if I know it's been to the track and lots of mountain runs. The oil only costs like $50 for 10 quarts. Add $20 for filters (I think that's what they go for?) and it's definitely cheap insurance to change.

If you for some reason aren't comfortable running it during track season, just run M1 for fall and winter only. My car is already struggling to warm up at 30F ambient, so I don't even know what it'd do up North

10' out here in BMore today. Going to switch to 0W-40 next week for sure. This will be my winter oil of choice.

[W///]

Originally Posted by checkmate

10' out here in BMore today. Going to switch to 0W-40 next week for sure. This will be my winter oil of choice.

Ouch. It was 20F this morning and I really really struggled to get the oil to operating temp. I think it only got to about 190F when I got to work. Will have to just take her out on a long drive home when I get off haha

[Killerfish2012]

Started her up today, parked outside overnight with M1 0W40 at 8F. Kazoom!

[Flying Ace]

after using M1 for 4-months, I've noticed that the car is burning a lot more oil than with TWS under DD situations.

I have burned through about 1.5 liters of oil, seems very excessive to me, whereas with TWS, I was only burning about 1 full bottle in a 12 month span. Anyone else have similar observations?

[Harpua]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

after using M1 for 4-months, I've noticed that the car is burning a lot more oil than with TWS under DD situations.

I have burned through about 1.5 liters of oil, seems very excessive to me, whereas with TWS, I was only burning about 1 full bottle in a 12 month span. Anyone else have similar observations?

I've noticed the opposite. I am now on my third round of M1 0W40 and my car used less than 0.5L over 12,000 km prior to my most recent change.

There are some anecdotal reports that engines will often burn more oil initially after changing grades, but this settles with time.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

after using M1 for 4-months, I've noticed that the car is burning a lot more oil than with TWS under DD situations.

I have burned through about 1.5 liters of oil, seems very excessive to me, whereas with TWS, I was only burning about 1 full bottle in a 12 month span. Anyone else have similar observations?

I look at mileage. I need to add 1 quart after 4000 miles, but I'm usually constantly adding (if graph says halfway, I'll add 0.3 qt or something like that). According to the manual, that's completely normally.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the manual says even with TWS, 1 qt per 1k mile can be considered acceptable (I think that's insane personally)

But yea, mine goes through more M1 than 10W60. Not a huge concern for me though.

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by W///

I look at mileage. I need to add 1 quart after 4000 miles, but I'm usually constantly adding (if graph says halfway, I'll add 0.3 qt or something like that). According to the manual, that's completely normally.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the manual says even with TWS, 1 qt per 1k mile can be considered acceptable (I think that's insane personally)

But yea, mine goes through more M1 than 10W60. Not a huge concern for me though.

B/c of the quicker consumption rate, I am now adding as I go along as well. So when I'm below half, I'm adding a bit at a time. The oil level gauge doesn't show the minute increments, so that makes it a bit difficult.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

after using M1 for 4-months, I've noticed that the car is burning a lot more oil than with TWS under DD situations.

I have burned through about 1.5 liters of oil, seems very excessive to me, whereas with TWS, I was only burning about 1 full bottle in a 12 month span. Anyone else have similar observations?

0w40 does burn a bit more than TWS. I'd use 1 quart of TWS every 7.5k miles. The 0w40 is going through 1 quart every 4k miles or so. Not really a worry for me and seems reasonable.

I have a ton of TWS here so I've been topping off my 0w40 with TWS. Maybe that is why it burns less? By the time I change my oil at 5k, it is about 8 quarts 0w40 and 1 quart TWS.

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by Z K

0w40 does burn a bit more than TWS. I'd use 1 quart of TWS every 7.5k miles. The 0w40 is going through 1 quart every 4k miles or so. Not really a worry for me and seems reasonable.

I have a ton of TWS here so I've been topping off my 0w40 with TWS. Maybe that is why it burns less? By the time I change my oil at 5k, it is about 8 quarts 0w40 and 1 quart TWS.

Kawasaki says that mixing TSW and M1 was not preferred due to different base stock, not sure what it means as I'm no chemical engineer. I'm sure it can't be that harmful when you're just using it as a top off. I also have 1 extra bottle of TWS laying around.

So, I didn't mention, I am also at 4k miles and I've topped off about 1.5 liters, it could be less or more, b/c it's so damn hard to measure the pour out of the gallon M1 jugs.

I'm going to keep that TWS bottle and use it for a measuring stick.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

B/c of the quicker consumption rate, I am now adding as I go along as well. So when I'm below half, I'm adding a bit at a time. The oil level gauge doesn't show the minute increments, so that makes it a bit difficult.

I've got a 1 quart bottle of M1 that I normally keep in the trunk. If the car is at halfway mark, I add about 0.3 quarts and that usually does the trick.

Then I just top off the small bottle with the big jug of M1. The car doesn't get driven anywhere far enough that it needs a full quart (well this one time at the track it did), but I'm OCD like that.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

Kawasaki says that mixing TSW and M1 was not preferred due to different base stock, not sure what it means as I'm no chemical engineer. I'm sure it can't be that harmful when you're just using it as a top off. I also have 1 extra bottle of TWS laying around.

It'll be fine. I am just topping off the oil. All motor oils are compatible so no need to worry.

The GT-R guys are mixing TWS with Mobil 1 0w40 for track days.

http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/...tone-analysis/

[Killerfish2012]

You guys saw this report:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1062371

This is the kind of stuff that worries me about 0W40. Definitely a 5-6K mile oil change interval oil in the S65. Not questioning it's stoutness, but I don't think it's up to the same long drain interval task of Castrol 10W60

[checkmate]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

You guys saw this report:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1062371

This is the kind of stuff that worries me about 0W40. Definitely a 5-6K mile oil change interval oil in the S65. Not questioning it's stoutness, but I don't think it's up to the same long drain interval task of Castrol 10W60

No one in this thread advocated long intervals between changes. The rule of thumb for M1 0w40 is to change it every 5000 miles.

Based on data to date, 10w60 for summer + track days.

0w40 best used in winter. If so-change at 5000 miles.

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

You guys saw this report:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1062371

This is the kind of stuff that worries me about 0W40. Definitely a 5-6K mile oil change interval oil in the S65. Not questioning it's stoutness, but I don't think it's up to the same long drain interval task of Castrol 10W60

TBN is still high and the cst viscosity at 12.82 is perfect

So clearly the oil is in fine shape after this extended interval.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by gatorfast

TBN is still high and the cst viscosity at 12.82 is perfect

So clearly the oil is in fine shape after this extended interval.

But his motor is not. There wasn't enough film strength to protect him during the "spirited drives" he did after 5K miles.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by checkmate

No one in this thread advocated long intervals between changes. The rule of thumb for M1 0w40 is to change it every 5000 miles.

Based on data to date, 10w60 for summer + track days.

0w40 best used in winter. If so-change at 5000 miles.

Re-read this thread carefully. I bought my car in May, and my first post on this thread (#383), was eerily similar to the conclusion you came to, much earlier in March, Post #354. Shortly after my May posting, username Dpharm advocated >5K mile oil change intervals with 0W40, Post #388. Me and Dpharm, then go into an exchange, where he repeatedly advocated use of this oil over 5K miles, in combination with track days!

If you do a search for Dpharm's posts in the track section, you'll see that earlier on he also tried to convince the track guys to use this oil, but got horribly shot down in that thread, as they all are 10W60 purists.

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

But his motor is not. There wasn't enough film strength to protect him during the "spirited drives" he did after 5K miles.

I don't think you know what you are talking about. That was indeed not a great UOA report but the readings on the oil itself came back fine.

[Harpua]

Originally Posted by gatorfast

I don't think you know what you are talking about. That was indeed not a great UOA report but the readings on the oil itself came back fine.

This is what concerns me -- The oil was fine, so why would the longevity of the oil change interval matter? 8k miles is not excessive for a high performance synthetic oil, nor was the car abused/driven hard during the interval. Canadian summers are not excessively hot (especially this past one). 3k miles difference in duration between the two UOA reports seems rather short to explain the significant difference in wear-metals present.

I'm scratching my head on this one. Oil experts, please feel free to chime in at anytime...

[Richbot]

I'm not saying anything that has'nt alrready come up in this thread, but...Most of the bearing failures on this line of engines have not been because of some deficiency in the oil they were running (setting aside for a minute the debate about whether or not TWS is "too thick" or whatever). You may just have a bearing that ended up tight and starved for oil at some point and there was nothing you could have done for it. I would bet good money that most if not all UOA's for motors that have lost bearings and holed the block, the oil that was spread all over the road would have looked fine on a viscosity, additive, etc. basis, and be right on spec for how the oil should look, just with lots more extra junk in it than usual.

So yeah not seeing what the change interval will do for you if the oil is holding up well when it's pulled out, other than giving you a warm fuzzy. This may seem tautological but the condition of the oil is really the only thing you can learn conclusively from a UOA, the condition of the engine can only be inferred and it's a pretty blunt instrument for tha

Also, if metals start dropping because you decrease your change interval, it's a mistake to attribute that to lower wear, even though better-condition oil may help, you're still getting similar wear per hour on the engine so long as the oil maintains the same properties. The less running time the oil spends in the engine the lest time it has to pick up metal from the various moving parts and the less there will be.

Now if loss of film strength after 5k really is an issue with the M1 0w40, and there is a UOA measure for film strength that needs to be checked at interval, why aren't we doing it?

[Harpua]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Also, if metals start dropping because you decrease your change interval, it's a mistake to attribute that to lower wear, even though better-condition oil may help, you're still getting similar wear per hour on the engine so long as the oil maintains the same properties. The less running time the oil spends in the engine the lest time it has to pick up metal from the various moving parts and the less there will be.

This, of course, makes intuitive sense. I could do weekly oil changes and have pristine reports.