DIY: Changing M-DCT Fluid

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by tmntmn

Planning on ordering the kit also to change out my DCT Fluid, if i change out the suction filter can i reuse my oil pan and gasket or do i have to purchase a new one?

for the pressure filter did you just pull it straight out?

do you have the part number for trans oil cooler line o rings you ordered?

I replaced my trans pan and gasket because I had a leak that I could not isolate. The gasket appears to be the type that can be reused. If it is not leaking, I don't think you have to replace it.

The pressure filter is press fit onto a circular ridge inside the housing. Look at the center of the picture below:


There is not anything holding the filter in except the pressure from being pressed over that ridge. I tried to grip the filter but ended up using a small screw driver to leverage it out. Once I looked inside, it made sense why it didn't just slip out.

I purchased all my parts from ECS Tuning. I also use realoem to find part numbers and cross reference them with ECS.

realoem:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

If you enter the last 7 digits of your VIN it will pull up the correct configuration for your car without having to step through the questions each time.

ECS Tuning:

www.ecstuning.com

bmw o ring part number: 17222245358

ECS o ring: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES38867/

ECS also has a kit that includes the fluid, both filters and both the drain and fill plugs The only part they did not include is the oil cooler o rings, you will need to order 2 o rings:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...ion/ES2677651/

Good luck!

[tmntmn]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

I replaced my trans pan and gasket because I had a leak that I could not isolate. The gasket appears to be the type that can be reused. If it is not leaking, I don't think you have to replace it.

The pressure filter is press fit onto a circular ridge inside the housing. Look at the center of the picture below:
Attachment 1065473

There is not anything holding the filter in except the pressure from being pressed over that ridge. I tried to grip the filter but ended up using a small screw driver to leverage it out. Once I looked inside, it made sense why it didn't just slip out.

I purchased all my parts from ECS Tuning. I also use realoem to find part numbers and cross reference them with ECS.

realoem:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

If you enter the last 7 digits of your VIN it will pull up the correct configuration for your car without having to step through the questions each time.

ECS Tuning:

www.ecstuning.com

bmw o ring part number: 17222245358

ECS o ring: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES38867/

ECS also has a kit that includes the fluid, both filters and both the drain and fill plugs The only part they did not include is the oil cooler o rings, you will need to order 2 o rings:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...ion/ES2677651/

Good luck!

Yeah that's the same kit i was going to order, 5qt was enough? i was going to order an extra bottle just in case and the o ring was for the line you had to remove that was blocking the pressure filter right?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks again for the reply!

planning on doing a dct fluid change, coolant flush and spark plugs soon so trying to order all the parts together.

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by tmntmn

Yeah that's the same kit i was going to order, 5qt was enough? i was going to order an extra bottle just in case and the o ring was for the line you had to remove that was blocking the pressure filter right?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks again for the reply!

planning on doing a dct fluid change, coolant flush and spark plugs soon so trying to order all the parts together.

No worries, glad to help.

I am a little concerned about having the fluid at the correct level, so I am taking it to Bavarian Work Shop and having them check the level. I did order an extra liter to be safe, but only used 5. I'll let you know if they need to use more.

Yes, the o ring is for the trans cooler lines that block the pressure filter. You will need one o ring for each line.

You will also need snap ring pliers with the 45 degree tips to remove the snap ring that holds the pressure filter cover in place. I found a set at Harbor Freight for $4.00 that worked perfectly.

[rantarM3]

Regarding the refilling of the DCT transmission, I'm going to ask an unusual question. Assuming I were to precisely measure the amount of fluid drained, could I just refill with that same amount of fresh fluid if I had the car raised higher on the passenger side so as to prevent the fluid from draining out?

[da jemster]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

I am a little concerned about having the fluid at the correct level, so I am taking it to Bavarian Work Shop and having them check the level....

Do you mind if I ask how much Marc charges you after your'e done? I'd like to have mine checked too. Maybe tell him we'll do a 2 for 1 deal?

Originally Posted by rantarM3

Regarding the refilling of the DCT transmission, I'm going to ask an unusual question. Assuming I were to precisely measure the amount of fluid drained, could I just refill with that same amount of fresh fluid if I had the car raised higher on the passenger side so as to prevent the fluid from draining out?

I had drained 5 1/2 out of mine but was only able to put 5 back in. I'm assuming I didn't have the car continuously running after the 2K RPM/60 seconds recommended warm-up period.

[tmntmn]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

No worries, glad to help.

I am a little concerned about having the fluid at the correct level, so I am taking it to Bavarian Work Shop and having them check the level. I did order an extra liter to be safe, but only used 5. I'll let you know if they need to use more.

Yes, the o ring is for the trans cooler lines that block the pressure filter. You will need one o ring for each line.

You will also need snap ring pliers with the 45 degree tips to remove the snap ring that holds the pressure filter cover in place. I found a set at Harbor Freight for $4.00 that worked perfectly.

Thanks for all the info!

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by rantarM3

Regarding the refilling of the DCT transmission, I'm going to ask an unusual question. Assuming I were to precisely measure the amount of fluid drained, could I just refill with that same amount of fresh fluid if I had the car raised higher on the passenger side so as to prevent the fluid from draining out?

I'm not sure how high you would need to tilt the car in order not to have the fluid drain out to soon. And, refilling with the same amount you remove assumes you have not had any leak out and that the original level was correct. It should get you close, but I would still have a pro check it.

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by da jemster

Do you mind if I ask how much Marc charges you after your'e done? I'd like to have mine checked too. Maybe tell him we'll do a 2 for 1 deal?

He charges $120.00 labor plus any fluid needed. He needs the car over night, so it starts out cold. Otherwise, it heats up too quickly to fill it properly.

I had drained 5 1/2 out of mine but was only able to put 5 back in. I'm assuming I didn't have the car continuously running after the 2K RPM/60 seconds recommended warm-up period.

I added 5 liters and Marc had to add 1 1/2 more. I did have a leak to begin with, so I guess mine started a little low. Plus the pump I used was not able to get all the fluid out of the bottles (I poured the remainder from one bottle to the next, so I only lost the small remainder in one bottle) and it wasted some inside the pump that would not come out plus I lost a little when the filler tube came out of the inlet hole while I was pumping it. Probably lost 1/4 liter.

I am glad I had Bavarian work shop check it for me. The guys there really seem to know what they are doing and are honest.

Knowing what I know now, I think I did not rev it up enough to get the fluid pumped through out the rest of the trans, cooler lines and cooler. Checking the temperature should not be glossed over.

[SimiM3]

I received my Blackstone report. Here it is. Seems like the fluid held up pretty well.

10 M3-T-071814a.pdf

[dry87]

my e92 m3 2009 run about 42k km/ 26k mile.

is it normal in low speed sometime feel abrupt not smooth, when i run in high gear 6/7 with speed 60kmh/40mile and i kick down(change to low gear with pedal shift ) its a bit lag around 1s (like waiting to the right RPM to get torque) eventought the gear show already change.
is that normal?

should i change DTC fluid? i asked to bmw dealer to change oil transmission they said it lifetime no need to change oil. but i read in this forum they change the oil. in indonesia they never performed change oil transmision on MDTC. I'm afraid they don't know how to change the oil in the right way

[dparm]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

I received my Blackstone report. Here it is. Seems like the fluid held up pretty well.

Attachment 1072270

Agreed, looks fine. Pay for TAN next time. I changed mine at 50k and it could've gone much longer.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by dry87

my e92 m3 2009 run about 42k km/ 26k mile.

is it normal in low speed sometime feel abrupt not smooth, when i run in high gear 6/7 with speed 60kmh/40mile and i kick down(change to low gear with pedal shift ) its a bit lag around 1s (like waiting to the right RPM to get torque) eventought the gear show already change.
is that normal?

should i change DTC fluid? i asked to bmw dealer to change oil transmission they said it lifetime no need to change oil. but i read in this forum they change the oil. in indonesia they never performed change oil transmision on MDTC. I'm afraid they don't know how to change the oil in the right way

Hi,

Yes, the M-DCT is not going to shift instantly if you need to drop several gears at once. My Audi's dual-clutch ("S tronic") was the same way.

From the fluid analyses we have seen on here, it is good to 50-75k miles (80-120k kilometers). I don't think you need to worry about changing it for a long time.

[dry87]

Originally Posted by dparm

Hi,

Yes, the M-DCT is not going to shift instantly if you need to drop several gears at once. My Audi's dual-clutch ("S tronic") was the same way.

From the fluid analyses we have seen on here, it is good to 50-75k miles (80-120k kilometers). I don't think you need to worry about changing it for a long time.

thx for the answer

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by dry87

my e92 m3 2009 run about 42k km/ 26k mile.

is it normal in low speed sometime feel abrupt not smooth, when i run in high gear 6/7 with speed 60kmh/40mile and i kick down(change to low gear with pedal shift ) its a bit lag around 1s (like waiting to the right RPM to get torque) eventought the gear show already change.
is that normal?

should i change DTC fluid? i asked to bmw dealer to change oil transmission they said it lifetime no need to change oil. but i read in this forum they change the oil. in indonesia they never performed change oil transmision on MDTC. I'm afraid they don't know how to change the oil in the right way

I do notice when the rpm is low (low 2k's) that there is some lag, especially in auto mode. I notice around a corner by my house that is also up hill that if I let it choose 3rd gear, it will not accelerate very well. I think this is because of the low torque. If I down shift to 2nd, then it pulls right away.

I don't think your issue is related to the fluid being old. It may just be the gear you are in relative to the speed/rpm. Also, what do you have the shift setting set to? It might be set too low if you want quick shifts.

I'll try leaving it in auto mode and see what happens at the speeds you are describing.

[dry87]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

I do notice when the rpm is low (low 2k's) that there is some lag, especially in auto mode. I notice around a corner by my house that is also up hill that if I let it choose 3rd gear, it will not accelerate very well. I think this is because of the low torque. If I down shift to 2nd, then it pulls right away.

I don't think your issue is related to the fluid being old. It may just be the gear you are in relative to the speed/rpm. Also, what do you have the shift setting set to? It might be set too low if you want quick shifts.

I'll try leaving it in auto mode and see what happens at the speeds you are describing.

i leave at 2 bar shift setting in automode, in manual i put 5 bar. in manual is much quicker. most i concern is when in the auto D1 the transmission feel so abrupt i must press throttle carefully if i want to smooth driving

if i change oil should i change filter as well? its seem so difficult task

is remap / retune M-DTC could make it better? they said it make it smoother and quicker shift. but I'm afraid it will make wear on DTC as they open limit that bmw already set.

i read in the other post "The computer decides when to shift (and at what rpm), so any potential abuse or damage is limited by the pre-programed software operating system. This software controls every aspect of the dual clutch transmission. (even in the MANUAL mode)

If you make an ill-advised gear selection choice (that will cause damage to the transmission or the engine), the computer will simply disregard your request and/or take over to fix the error. "

[dry87]

if i just change the oil but not change the pressure filter and suction filter is it pointless? because to change suction filter is ok, but pressure filter its quite hard. i asked authorised dealer in indonesia never perform this task. no one in indonesia change M-DTC oil. i don't want to be guinea pig.

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by dry87

i leave at 2 bar shift setting in automode, in manual i put 5 bar. in manual is much quicker. most i concern is when in the auto D1 the transmission feel so abrupt i must press throttle carefully if i want to smooth driving

if i change oil should i change filter as well? its seem so difficult task

is remap / retune M-DTC could make it better? they said it make it smoother and quicker shift. but I'm afraid it will make wear on DTC as they open limit that bmw already set.

i read in the other post "The computer decides when to shift (and at what rpm), so any potential abuse or damage is limited by the pre-programed software operating system. This software controls every aspect of the dual clutch transmission. (even in the MANUAL mode)

If you make an ill-advised gear selection choice (that will cause damage to the transmission or the engine), the computer will simply disregard your request and/or take over to fix the error. "

I leave both auto and manual mode at 3 bar, except when in M mode, then it is 5 bar. I noticed that when I am at 40 mph in 7th gear, the rpm is about 1500, which is very low for it to accelerate quickly. I drive most of the time in manual mode and at that speed, I would be in 4th or 5th and the response is much better. I would not worry about hurting the transmission unless you are constantly at red line, which is more of a problem for the engine anyway.

I did both the pressure filter and the suction filter when I changed the fluid. I did not get the level correct and had a BMW mechanic check it and he had to add 1 1/2 liters. I would not want to be a guinea pig either, but you are still early for needing to have it changed, in my opinion.

Don't be afraid to drive it hard, it was designed to handle it. Just keep up on the maintenance and you should be fine.

Good luck,

Mike

[dry87]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

I leave both auto and manual mode at 3 bar, except when in M mode, then it is 5 bar. I noticed that when I am at 40 mph in 7th gear, the rpm is about 1500, which is very low for it to accelerate quickly. I drive most of the time in manual mode and at that speed, I would be in 4th or 5th and the response is much better. I would not worry about hurting the transmission unless you are constantly at red line, which is more of a problem for the engine anyway.

I did both the pressure filter and the suction filter when I changed the fluid. I did not get the level correct and had a BMW mechanic check it and he had to add 1 1/2 liters. I would not want to be a guinea pig either, but you are still early for needing to have it changed, in my opinion.

Don't be afraid to drive it hard, it was designed to handle it. Just keep up on the maintenance and you should be fine.

Good luck,

Mike

thx for answer, i think i will be the 1st person I'm my country to change fluid, because i hold the highest odometer 42k km/ 25k mile.

[SimiM3]

Originally Posted by dry87

thx for answer, i think i will be the 1st person I'm my country to change fluid, because i hold the highest odometer 42k km/ 25k mile.

After I changed the transmission oil, I sent a sample to Blackstone (see my previous post) and they said the oil could have gone 75,000 miles. If you are at 25,000, then you have a ways to go before you should need to change the oil.

Mike

[da jemster]

Well a not-so-good-hoping-for-the-best-update.

Over the weekend, while reversing at a parking spot (Hey SimiM3 - this was down the street from you at Sunset Hills), I heard some clinking-boing sound under the car. I reversed a couple of more times and it kept repeating itself. Since this was late at night, I waited to get home and for morning. While at home, the sound repeated itself and I could swear it came from the rear passenger wheel. I was hoping for a pebble stuck in the rotor or such. I couldn't find anything. Then, I noticed that the cover under the DCT was saturated. I took the cover off and discovered the entire oil pan was drenched. (SimiM3 - was your pan this soaked as well?) I can't seem to find where the leak is coming from. I am hoping that when I re-installed the original oil pan, the gasket may be failing somewhere and a quick replacement will solve this.

Why I am hoping that it is coming from around the oil pan is because of the other pic included here. There are the drip marks coming from the oil lines - I am wondering how can the top oil line have a drip mark with the line being that high?? I inspected the rubber portion of that line and it is bone dry. So, can the vibration of the car, while driving, with the oil cover guard saturated, splash the oil up that high to that top oil line? Anyone encounter this?

I've already received my new oil pan and o-rings from ECS. Because of the clicking sound, I'm sending a sample to Blackstone for analysis and hoping for the best that I wasn't running under the oil level too much.

[da jemster]

This discovery may have a little benefit because I get to cycle in more fresh fluids. Look at the difference of just running for 2,160 miles.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by da jemster

This discovery may have a little benefit because I get to cycle in more fresh fluids. Look at the difference of just running for 2,160 miles.

Visual inspection is pretty much worthless. Of course it's going to change color.