Help bleeding the clutch

C'est peut-être une question stupide, mais je suis vraiment perplexe. Je saigne régulièrement, donc je connais bien cette routine.

J'ai remonté la voiture, retiré le couvercle de transmission, pressurisé le réservoir de liquide de frein avec un videur de puissance à 10 psi, attaché un tuyau et desserré la petite vis de purge en plastique. Pas de débit.

J'ai augmenté la pression de purge à 15 psi. Nada. J'ai poussé la pédale d'embrayage, le fluide est sorti, mais la pédale est restée baissée. Manuellement tiré la pédale vers le haut, poussé à nouveau, plus de fluide est sorti mais la pédale est restée enfoncée. a ne me semble pas juste.

Pourquoi le fluide ne circule-t-il pas sans que je pompe ? Qu'est-ce que je fais de mal ?

il y a une valve à sens unique dans l'embrayage. Ne mettez pas de pression avec un saignement moteur. au lieu de laisser la vis de purge ouverte et pomper l'embrayage.fluid ne coulera 1 manière. Assurez-vous de remplir le réservoir.

Petros wrote

there is a one way valve in the clutch. don't put pressure with a motive bleeder. instead leave the bleeder screw open and pump the clutch.fluid will only flow 1 way. make sure you keep topping up the reservoir.

When you say "pump the clutch", you mean I should manually lift the pedal off the floor after pushing it? Or do you expect the pedal to come back up by itself?

Leave the motive attached to assist with fluid flush. Sometimes it does that where the pedal feels like it looses pressure but after you're done and you close the valve, manually push and lift the pedal, it takes a lot of rapid pumps but it comes back.

Okay, so I'll do this again next weekend:
1. Motive bleeder on for assistance. (will be using for a brake bleed anyway)
2. Open valve
3. Push clutch pedal
4. Lift clutch pedal off the floor with my hand
Repeated 3 + 4 until fresh fluid comes out
5. Close valve, remove motive bleeder, put everything back.
6. Pump the pedal until it feels normal before driving

Right?

Rostasteve wrote  

Okay, so I'll do this again next weekend:
1. Motive bleeder on for assistance. (will be using for a brake bleed anyway)
2. Open valve
3. Push clutch pedal
4. Lift clutch pedal off the floor with my hand
Repeated 3 + 4 until fresh fluid comes out
5. Close valve, remove motive bleeder, put everything back.
6. Pump the pedal until it feels normal before driving

Right?

Yes that's it

I usually do not use the Motive when bleeding a slave. If you have two people, do the pedal pump method, with one person under the car opening and closing the slave. If there is just me, I remove the slave and bleed it manually, by holding it in my hand, releasing the bleed, depressing the piston, tightening the bleed and repeating 4 or 5 times. Hold the slave with the bleed end up. On some cars, you may have to undo the nut holding the bracket that holds the union of the flexible hose with the hardline into the slave so you can maneuver the slave around.

The motive bleeder works on my 09. You just have to open up the bleeder screw more than you think.

pbonsalb wrote

I usually do not use the Motive when bleeding a slave. If you have two people, do the pedal pump method, with one person under the car opening and closing the slave. If there is just me, I remove the slave and bleed it manually, by holding it in my hand, releasing the bleed, depressing the piston, tightening the bleed and repeating 4 or 5 times. Hold the slave with the bleed end up. On some cars, you may have to undo the nut holding the bracket that holds the union of the flexible hose with the hardline into the slave so you can maneuver the slave around.

I though this car had a check valve on the slave making it a one person job now?

s85e90 wrote

I though this car had a check valve on the slave making it a one person job now?

This is a timely discussion ... I am about to bleed my brakes. I've done it once with the Motiv bleeder, but doubt it that the clutch was bled. More info will be extremely useful. Thank you guys.

s85e90 wrote

I though this car had a check valve on the slave making it a one person job now?

Yes it does but the motive is a must to help push old fluid out

sub

I always thought in manually doing it, you pump the clutch couple of times, then hold it depressed while you open and close the bleeder valve. Repeat again once you've had some pressure build up.

edwinm3 wrote

Yes that's it

Can anyone further chime in on their experience with bleeding the clutch on an e9xM3?

1). For a single person job, is the procedure as detailed above essentially it: top reservoir, fill motive bleeder with fluid and attach to reservoir and pressurize for assistance; open valve; lift and depress clutch pedal 3-4 times, close valve; remove bleeder & close reservoir and the. pump clutch until firm ?

2). Some other threads mentioned that it’s a one way check valve so that all you need to do is open the valve, depress the clutch 10 times, close the valve and then pump the clutch until it gets firm, while making sure the reservoir is completely topped off (see: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343891 and see: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7060267&postcount=14). is this the better way to do it or better to have the pressure bleeder attached?

3). Although not for an M3 this website (http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.htm) fills and attaches the pressure bleeder and then opens the valve, allows the fluid to flush and then closes the valve without depressing the clutch. Any thoughts on this method - (other then try it and see what happens )

4). I am trying to have a backup plan in the event that the above doesn’t work. Is it pretty straightforward to remove the slave cylinder and bleed it by hand in the event that the above doesn’t work? Thanks for any additional guidance!

I always remove slave, hold with bleeder up, open bleeder, depress piston by hand, close bleeder, release piston and repeat. It’s a lot to do by yourself but I do it. I get mixed results with the Motive on slaves so I don’t bother with it.

pbonsalb wrote

I always remove slave, hold with bleeder up, open bleeder, depress piston by hand, close bleeder, release piston and repeat. It’s a lot to do by yourself but I do it. I get mixed results with the Motive on slaves so I don’t bother with it.

Thanks, pbonsalb. Key is to make sure that the reservoir stays topped off correct? Is it just the one bolt to detach the slave? (#17 on realoem? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=KG93-USA-09-2010-E92N-BMW-M3&diagId=21_0208).

Any tips on removing the slave cylinder?

Is it fairly easy to remove and then manipulate the slave? (doing this on jack stands). Thanks again.

2 bolts for the slave, one on top visible in the diagram at 17 and one on the bottom. Plus a bolt for the hose bracket at 12.

It’s pretty easy to me but I have done it before. Jack stands should be fine though less convenient than a lift obviously. Depressing the piston takes a little force as does holding it especially while you tighten and loosen the bleed. I doubt you will run the reservoir too low but you could top it off after every couple of depressions from which noticeable fluid comes out. The fluid is messy. Ideally you have a hose on the bleed nipple looping over into a container. Even harder for one person to manage alone but I have done it. If you do this sequence 4-5 times that is sufficient. Most important thing is to hold slave so bleed nipple is at top since that is where the air will be.

pbonsalb wrote

2 bolts for the slave, one on top visible in the diagram at 17 and one on the bottom. Plus a bolt for the hose bracket at 12.

It’s pretty easy to me but I have done it before. Jack stands should be fine though less convenient than a lift obviously. Depressing the piston takes a little force as does holding it especially while you tighten and loosen the bleed. I doubt you will run the reservoir too low but you could top it off after every couple of depressions from which noticeable fluid comes out. The fluid is messy. Ideally you have a hose on the bleed nipple looping over into a container. Even harder for one person to manage alone but I have done it. If you do this sequence 4-5 times that is sufficient. Most important thing is to hold slave so bleed nipple is at top since that is where the air will be.

pbonsalb, Thanks again for your insight! It’s much appreciated. (Hopefully it’ll all go as planned).

If there is some really easy way that always works, try that first. Others are saying there is no need to pull the slave. It may be that the manual method is only needed when replacing the slave.

Thanks. I guess it can’t hurt to try with the pressure bleeder attached, open the valve and pump the clutch to see what happens. I’d rather not deal with drawing air into the line though.

I did not know it was that simple.

pbonsalb wrote

I did not know it was that simple.

Not sure if it's indeed that simple but will post back when I do this. The links I posted about issues bleeding the clutch got me thinking (maybe too much)