Valve cover gasket DIY

Je n'ai pas remplacé les boulons quand j'ai fait mes joints, maintenant ils fuient 5k miles plus tard. Je vais essayer de le refaire et remplacer les boulons.

Sur le point de faire ce travail. Je vois des tubes de bougie d'allumage URO sont $8 contre $21 pour la vraie BMW. C'est environ 100 $ de moins pour tous les 8. Quelqu'un a de l'expérience avec ça ?

Merci d'avance et merci à tous ceux qui ont contribué à ce thread.

I want to know the same as well...... If the URO spark plug tube is decent in quality, that's some serious saving there.

For3 wrote

About to do this job. I see URO spark plug tubes are $8 vs $21 for genuine BMW. It's about a $100 less for all 8. Anyone have any experience with these?

Thanks in advance and thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

testdriver wrote

I want to know the same as well...... If the URO spark plug tube is decent in quality, that's some serious saving there.

It's just plastic, if you can save money there, then do so.

Just make sure you seat them properly before re-installing the valve covers.

It's bound to leak again, so FCP is a suggested option for their lifetime warranty. I got my whole kit from them along with the bolts and rubber washers.

For3 wrote

About to do this job. I see URO spark plug tubes are $8 vs $21 for genuine BMW. It's about a $100 less for all 8. Anyone have any experience with these?

Thanks in advance and thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

I used Genuine BMW spark plug tubes as I know URO is generally considered low tier in terms of quality. I did not want to do this job again or have oil weeping into the spark plugs tubes so that was enough justification for the additional premium.

See if you can try going around the underside of the valve cover with a small flathead and see break it loose enough to pull off.

How do you remove this part? Driver side

Just wrench it and turn??

Mimmer wrote

How do you remove this part? Driver side

Just wrench it and turn??

Yes, box wrench or deep socket.

Johal E32 wrote

For3 wrote

About to do this job. I see URO spark plug tubes are $8 vs $21 for genuine BMW. It's about a $100 less for all 8. Anyone have any experience with these?

Thanks in advance and thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

I used Genuine BMW spark plug tubes as I know URO is generally considered low tier in terms of quality. I did not want to do this job again or have oil weeping into the spark plugs tubes so that was enough justification for the additional premium.

Uro in general seems be bad quality in everything i read so i stay clear from them... No first hand experience though

I came up with this safer pry bar alternative to removing the valve cover. Its pretty easy to get a zip tie through if you are able to wedge something in the cover, thought I'd share

The zip tie method is exactly how I did mine. Good video 👍

I am currently working on mine. Will be replacing valve cover gaskets, oil separator gasket & o ring, spark plug tubes, spark plugs, fuel breather valve, chain tensioner, ignition coil.

Could someone confirm torque specs for below? Did I miss out any?

Spark Plugs 23nm (17ft lb)
Oil Separator 4nm (3ft lb)
Valve Cover 10nm (7.4ft lb)
Chain Tensioner 40nm (30ft lb)
Camshaft Sensor 4nm (3ft lb)

kooolaid wrote

I am currently working on mine. Will be replacing valve cover gaskets, oil separator gasket & o ring, spark plug tubes, spark plugs, fuel breather valve, chain tensioner, ignition coil.

Could someone confirm torque specs for below? Did I miss out any?

Spark Plugs 23nm (17ft lb)
Oil Separator 4nm (3ft lb)
Valve Cover 10nm (7.4ft lb)
Chain Tensioner 40nm (30ft lb)
Camshaft Sensor 4nm (3ft lb)

These numbers are what I've read too.

TX wrote

The zip tie method is exactly how I did mine. Good video 👍

Hi guys, checking the various vids and DIY it seems some take off both oil breathers and injector harness while some as far as I get don't.
Is it ok to let the breather sit and only lose the injector connectors/harness to slip out the valve cover?

Thanks

Helmsman wrote

Hi guys, checking the various vids and DIY it seems some take off both oil breathers and injector harness while some as far as I get don't.
Is it ok to let the breather sit and only lose the injector connectors/harness to slip out the valve cover?

Thanks

Yes it's okay. The breathers are only held on by two fasteners that lock onto the valve covers.

I took mine off when I did my valve cover gaskets, but I think it was just out of habit since I was removing other items.

Vuu wrote

Yes it's okay. The breathers are only held on by two fasteners that lock onto the valve covers.

I took mine off when I did my valve cover gaskets, but I think it was just out of habit since I was removing other items.

Cheers Vuu. And if the breather has to come off, those bolts are ok to reuse? (ordered the cover bolts).

Helmsman wrote

And if the breather has to come off, those bolts are ok to reuse? (ordered the cover bolts).

BMW says to replace them. They are aluminum for compatibility with the magnesium valve covers, and "[a]luminium screws/bolts must be replaced each time they are released" per ISTA.

IamFODI wrote

BMW says to replace them IIRC.

You know if they are aluminium likte the valve bolts? Ah well, better place a third order with the guys...

+ orings and gaskets for the breather.

Helmsman wrote

You know if they are aluminium likte the valve bolts? Ah well, better place a third order with the guys...

+ orings and gaskets for the breather.

In all honesty, I reused my breather bolts. I didn't feel the need to replace them, considering they're barely torqued on there.

Vuu wrote

In all honesty, I reused my breather bolts. I didn't feel the need to replace them, considering they're barely torqued on there.

And they where only 4nm or so..? Ordered them as well as some gasket and o-ring according to realoem.

Hi Helms, yes they are low torque aluminum bolts. I replaced them, but I could easily argue for not replacing them due to the very low torque. 4nm for the aluminum bolts that are used for accessories on the cover.

TX wrote

Hi Helms, yes they are low torque aluminum bolts. I replaced them, but I could easily argue for not replacing them due to the very low torque. 4nm for the aluminum bolts that are used for accessories on the cover.

Thanks TX. Still looking for a shop to carry out the actual work but preparing mean while. Understand folks hesitate to put in aftermarket stuff (slonik vanos cover on its way), even if I pass on warranty. Push comes to shove I need to sort it myself in the public garage...