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06/02/2017LAST POST
Y a-t-il quelque chose que je devrais remplacer pendant que j'y suis?

Bouchons ? Connecteurs de refroidissement ?

Merci !
Si les prises ont plus de 30 000 miles, je les remplacerais simplement car la boîte à air est déjà éteinte.

Lubrer les liaisons de l'actionneur d'accélérateur jusqu'à ce qu'il n'y ait plus de grincement.
Si vous lubrifiez les papillons et les ressorts pour éliminer le bruit, n'oubliez pas de ne mettre aucun lubrifiant sur les chapiteaux en plastique. Les lubrifiants y attireront le grain et les débris qui introduiront la pente au fil du temps. Un moteur que j'ai entretenu quelqu'un avait lu ces codes et l'éventuel slop qu'il a causé créé qui donnait l'impression que ses actionneurs avaient commencé à tomber en panne.

En dehors de cela, il suffit de remplacer le capteur. Il n'y a pas grand-chose qui doit être entretenu préventivement, sauf si vous êtes miles sont proches de 100k.
deansbimmer a écrit
Si vous lubrifiez les papillons et les ressorts pour éliminer le bruit, n'oubliez pas de ne mettre aucun lubrifiant sur les chapiteaux en plastique. Les lubrifiants y attireront le grain et les débris qui introduiront la pente au fil du temps. Un moteur que j'ai entretenu quelqu'un avait lu ces codes et l'éventuel slop qu'il a causé créé qui donnait l'impression que ses actionneurs avaient commencé à tomber en panne.

En dehors de cela, il suffit de remplacer le capteur. Il n'y a pas grand-chose qui doit être entretenu préventivement, sauf si vous êtes miles sont proches de 100k.

Merci.

Je suis à 86k, actuellement.

Et je viens de remplacer les deux actionneurs du corps des gaz il y a 2 km.

deansbimmer a écrit
Si vous lubrifiez les papillons et les ressorts pour éliminer le bruit, n'oubliez pas de ne mettre aucun lubrifiant sur les chapiteaux en plastique. Les lubrifiants y attireront le grain et les débris qui introduiront la pente au fil du temps. Un moteur que j'ai entretenu quelqu'un avait lu ces codes et l'éventuel slop qu'il a causé créé qui donnait l'impression que ses actionneurs avaient commencé à tomber en panne.

En dehors de cela, il suffit de remplacer le capteur. Il n'y a pas grand-chose qui doit être entretenu préventivement, sauf si vous êtes miles sont proches de 100k.

Quel est le lubrifiant correct à utiliser et y a-t-il un diy?

noremaC wrote
...Is there anything I should replace while I'm in there?

Plugs? Coolant connectors?

Thanks!
Here's the diy in case you missed it http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928400

There are 4 orings p/n 11537835497 that are $2.50 each that would be nice while you have it apart https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/o-ring/11537835497/


The coolant temp sensor p/n 13621433076 while you're at it? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/temperature-sensor/13621433076/
JsL wrote
Here's the diy in case you missed it http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928400

There are 4 orings p/n 11537835497 that are $2.50 each that would be nice while you have it apart https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/o-ring/11537835497/


The coolant temp sensor p/n 13621433076 while you're at it? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/temperature-sensor/13621433076/
+1

I replaced the o-rings and temperature sensor as well. Careful when reseating those couplings with the o-rings. Somehow I managed to snag an o-ring while putting it back in and ended up destroying it. Didn't know until I leaked out all my coolant during a 15 minutes test drive. Either be prepared to re-use an old one or purchase a spare.
JsL wrote
What is the correct lube to use and is there a diy?
I don't recommend lubricating anything up there and neither does BMW, so there is no 'correct' lube. It's not a sealed area so putting oils there can cause more bad than good as dirt builds up there. You can't hear them when the engine is running so it really shouldn't matter if they're a little noisy when it's off. I specifically wanted to post the hazard of oiling the plastic clevises but people can do what they want.
Change the water pump too
monterey wrote
Change the water pump too
Why? The water pumps have been reliable. I've done thermostat replacement and temp sensor replacement (preventative), but I don't see the utility for replacing a part that seems to be durable and hasn't given (maybe not many, haven't seen much if anything on the forums re the water pump) anyone any trouble.
JsL wrote
Here's the diy in case you missed it http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928400

There are 4 orings p/n 11537835497 that are $2.50 each that would be nice while you have it apart https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/o-ring/11537835497/


The coolant temp sensor p/n 13621433076 while you're at it? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/temperature-sensor/13621433076/
The O-rings on the hoses at the front of the housing are different. I didn't buy these when I got my parts, so of course I am sure I nicked one of them. I wish I had run the engine before I reassembled the plenum and airbox. I have a leak in there somewhere now.

Is there a recommended technique for the reassembly? Or maybe a part number for the orings that fit inside the connectors at the front?

Thanks!
VictorH wrote
Why? The water pumps have been reliable. I've done thermostat replacement and temp sensor replacement (preventative), but I don't see the utility for replacing a part that seems to be durable and hasn't given (maybe not many, haven't seen much if anything on the forums re the water pump) anyone any trouble.
Because it's cheap, you're right there and why wait for it to fail and leave you stranded?
doogee wrote
Because it's cheap, you're right there and why wait for it to fail and leave you stranded?
Because replacing a good part with a broken one is a real possibility anytime you install a new part "preventatively"? Because that thinking can snowball into why not replace the whole car while you're in there?
Richbot wrote
Because replacing a good part with a broken one is a real possibility anytime you install a new part "preventatively"? Because that thinking can snowball into why not replace the whole car while you're in there?
Okay easy now, preventative maintenance is important within reason. I'm not saying to change all the pullies and engine accessories too.

I dont like the risk of waiting for parts to fail. I could be sitting in traffic or at a track day and a waterpump failure is sure to ruin my day when I could of spent under $200 to not have to worry about it for years.
Water pump is $500, so not trivial for an unnecessary repair.
Locksmythe wrote
Water pump is $500, so not trivial for an unnecessary repair.
Not sure where you're getting your prices but I paid $195 and I have to pay the Canada tax!
Locksmythe wrote
The O-rings on the hoses at the front of the housing are different. I didn't buy these when I got my parts, so of course I am sure I nicked one of them. I wish I had run the engine before I reassembled the plenum and airbox. I have a leak in there somewhere now.

Is there a recommended technique for the reassembly? Or maybe a part number for the orings that fit inside the connectors at the front?

Thanks!
Crap, so I bought to wrong orings...

check out ECS's Thermostat replacement kit: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/thermostat-replacement-kit/11537836155kt/

FWIW, It shows 4 of the same Orings.
If you look on ebay there is a seller blowing out some new in box genuine BMW water pumps for $150. I picked up a couple...
Locksmythe wrote
Where do the 4 Orings go? I only had 2 like this on the housing. Should they have been doubled up?
Those two small tubes separate from the main thermostat housing and transfer pipe. There are two o-rings per pipe, 4 total.

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