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pbonsalb a écrit

Ce n'est pas un étalon. C'est juste la fin du boulon M12x1.5 cassé. Ces boulons passent par les supports de diff avant et sous-cadre et les cintres d'échappement pendent la partie saillante. Vous pouvez utiliser pb blaster ou kroil et simple de double écrou il et essayer de tirer tout le chemin à travers depuis la tête et l'épaule cassée de l'autre extrémité. Vous pouvez également utiliser de la chaleur sur le corps fileté (pas l'écrou) et ensuite utiliser des poignées d'étau, mais soyez prudent avec la chaleur puisque le réservoir de gaz n'est pas loin.

C'est un M12x1 et non 1.5. Essayer d'essayer la méthode à double écrou, mais ces noix sont difficiles à trouver. J'en ai trouvé sur Amazon avec Prime.

pbonsalb wrote

Borrow from the other side to extract while you wait for a new bolt?

SonnyJack wrote

I just dealt with this exact issue last weekend. As long as the remaining part of the bolt is not bent, a regular pair of pliers is all you should need to turn it out. I had vice grips ready, but didn't need them. Turn it clockwise and it will work it's way out with minimal to no damage to the threads.

Getting the new bolt to line up is a bit of a bitch, and is going to require you to loosen the other two bolts. In fact I had to remove the top bolt (21mm) in order to line up the new bolt. I went further though and changed all three just for more peace of mind.

Having an extra set of hands along with an extra floor jack will also help because as soon as you remove the top bolt the diff will sag, and it is rather heavy.

All three OEM bolts only set me back $53.

R3dliner wrote

Thx for the tip. Do you recall what torque specs you used?

SonnyJack wrote

74 ft/lbs for the 18mm

122 ft/lbs for the 21mm

Useful reference here

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1330067

HerbNRacer wrote

This would pull the threads right out of the hole, if the stud didnt break first... Probably not the best method.

Bimmer Barney wrote

I need closure. Is this fixed!? :P

R3dliner wrote

Tried welding a nut and it didn't work. Ended up drilling into the bolt. Had to drop the diff a little bit. What a pain and the ass it was.

This was what was stuck on the diff. As you can see the threads was covered pretty bad with some black crap.

roastbeef wrote

maybe i'm not thinking this through, but the bolt head already broke off and he just has a half stick of thread in there now. how would it not just pull through?