Drain plug stripped..

J'ai généralement un couple d'environ 10-12Nm pour deux bouchons de vidange sur le carter d'huile, mais j'étais à moitié endormi comme d'habitude et j'en ai tordu un à 17Nm qui a retiré la fiche hexagonale de 6 mm. Il faudra probablement l'emmener au magasin spécialisé pour la prochaine vidange d'huile.

Y a-t-il une chance que j'ai endommagé le trou du carter d'huile aussi?

yep probablement vous avez dépouillé la casserole, puisque le boulon est en acier et la casserole en aluminium.

Cela m'est arrivé récemment, j'ai fait installer un Time Cert dans une boutique (googlez-le, vous pouvez l'acheter sur amazon, assurez-vous simplement d'obtenir le bon pas de fil) et cela l'a corrigé.

SSJVegita wrote

yep most likely you have stripped the pan, since the bolt is steel and the pan aluminum.

It happened to me recently, I had a shop install a Time Cert (google it, you can purchase it on amazon, just make sure you get the right thread pitch) and that fixed it.

Looked at the price of the oil pan; I'm shaking with rage in my armchair..

I would have liked BMW to offer aluminum or magnesium drain plugs even at a higher price..

I am uncertain if my shop is willing to put time-sert into my oil pan.

I don't see why they wouldn't. And yea a new oil pan is super expensive. Plus all the labor. At that point I'd say do the rod bearings as well.

TIME-SERT M12 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mqYWCbVA42R2S

There is the url for the time cert. if your shop won't do it find one who will. I'd at least try that before dishing out for a oil pan. Bunch of member have done it themselves and no problem as well.

SSJVegita wrote

yep most likely you have stripped the pan, since the bolt is steel and the pan aluminum.

It happened to me recently, I had a shop install a Time Cert (google it, you can purchase it on amazon, just make sure you get the right thread pitch) and that fixed it.

Good lord, did they at least remove the oil pan to install the timesert? Between drilling and taping the threads, timesert installs make for a lot of metal particles. I wouldn't want that anywhere near the oil.

DavidZ wrote

Good lord, did they at least remove the oil pan to install the timesert? Between drilling and taping the threads, timesert installs make for a lot of metal particles. I wouldn't want that anywhere near the oil.

yah thats the proper way, but if yer gonna pull the pan, mite as well replace it.

That really sucks. I don't see why the shop wouldn't do a time cert though. Might as well do bearings while you're in there if you haven't yet (if you end up pulling the pan).

DavidZ wrote

Good lord, did they at least remove the oil pan to install the timesert? Between drilling and taping the threads, timesert installs make for a lot of metal particles. I wouldn't want that anywhere near the oil.

Most shops install the time sert into an installed pan. They grease the bit and clean the particles regularly and then flush the pan. It is ideal to remove the pan, but will cost hours more in labor and is not necessary.

I dunno about you guys, but the only time I've ever stripped threads is when using a torque wrench. Usually because there was antiseize or other lube on the fastener which throws the torque spec way off (torque specs are usually for "dry" applications).
I've never stripped a thread using a simple ratchet, so I don't bother using a torque wrench on the drain bolts.

Really not a big deal. The shop I worked at did 50-70 oil changes a day and we did TONS of oil pan repair, on the car. Larger self-cutting threaded plugs are available, you can drill/tap in the next larger size, or use an insert with no problem. Just flush it with a few quarts of oil (the oil you just drained out is fine) and done.

If you really want to you can weld the pan up and re-thread, but I'm not adventurous enough to try that on the car.

DavidZ wrote

I dunno about you guys, but the only time I've ever stripped threads is when using a torque wrench. Usually because there was antiseize or other lube on the fastener which throws the torque spec way off (torque specs are usually for "dry" applications).
I've never stripped a thread using a simple ratchet, so I don't bother using a torque wrench on the drain bolts.

That’s a good idea. I used a torque wrench but now I won’t . The oil never stops dripping and is all over the threads so I am thinking the torque wrench will torque more than it is set to...

Time sert the pan. Is not a big deal.

Sorry I might be confused but aren't the torque specs for the oil plugs 25 Nm?

Inluvwithastr1pper wrote

Sorry I might be confused but aren't the torque specs for the oil plugs 25 Nm?

It's funny. On the DIY oil change thread, Jon has a pic of what I'm assuming is BMW TIS and says "I am tired of reading about confusion. Hopefully this helps." But it's still confusing because it says 25 Nm for "oil drain plug" and 10 Nm for "oil sump screws" and shows different sizes/threads for them, but both bolts are identical (at least on my car) so I have no idea what they mean. Still, I don't understand the need to torque oil drain bolts with a torque wrench. "Tight enough but not too tight" works well.

It's 25nm which isn't much, if it stripped it's because it was way over torqued at a prior oil change. You don't need to use a toque wrench, use your smallest wrench and pinch it.

SAMM3Y wrote

It's 25nm which isn't much, if it stripped it's because it was way over torqued at a prior oil change. You don't need to use a toque wrench, use your smallest wrench and pinch it.

done this since day 1 on all my BMWs, no issues. 1/4 drive wrench (if you want to be exact) with an adapter and hand tight.

Happend to me yesterday changing the oil, first time after buying the car. Could tell the bolt was coming out crooked. My fears were realized pulling the metal pan threads out. I ordered the kit, hopefully will fix it. Unreal some people should not be allowed to work on cars. This was done at a shop before I bought it. They cross threaded it and kept going, surprised it wasn't leaking...

They probably knew the car was about to be sold.

nolaman1970 wrote

Happend to me yesterday changing the oil, first time after buying the car. Could tell the bolt was coming out crooked. My fears were realized pulling the metal pan threads out. I ordered the kit, hopefully will fix it. Unreal some people should not be allowed to work on cars. This was done at a shop before I bought it. They cross threaded it and kept going, surprised it wasn't leaking...

Crossthreading is natures locktight. At least you did not have to worry about that pan plug falling out...

But yes, some people should look but never touch.

Scharbag wrote

Crossthreading is natures locktight. At least you did not have to worry about that pan plug falling out...

But yes, some people should look but never touch.

No it’s not, if you are a mechanic and you feel a bolt going in badly but you continue to “send it” you clearly don’t take pride in your work.

amrazM wrote

Scharbag wrote

Crossthreading is natures locktight. At least you did not have to worry about that pan plug falling out...

But yes, some people should look but never touch.

No it’s not, if you are a mechanic and you feel a bolt going in badly but you continue to “send it” you clearly don’t take pride in your work.

I was being facetious.

I recently had this dilemma on my first oil change in the car. Honestly, I just listened to my local coder, GORDON.M3. He recommended hand tight with a quarter turn. After my first change, I lifted the car up and changed the drain plugs again just because of the loads of stripped plugs and pans threads I read. Thankfully it was fine. From my experience, everyone I've spoken to that stripped something has used a torque wrench. So I highly recommend going for feel instead. Hand tight and then a quarter turn or less.