Mise à jour Front Uprights

///Mobbin a écrit

Les tests de la nouvelle suspension, OS Giken Spec S diff et Strom Uprights sur la piste les prochains jours ont été pompés! Je vais recevoir un rapport sur les montants dès que je peux. Toujours se sentir bien dans la rue avec une direction de bosse massivement améliorée et les manières en général. Oh et les supports de moteur Powerflex nouvellement installés aussi. Culmination de beaucoup de travail que j'ai installé tout moi-même, heureux d'être passé cette étape et se diriger vers la piste, enfin!

Intéressé à entendre votre avis sur le diff de Giken.

spxxx a écrit

Super installation, j'espère vraiment pouvoir trouver un ensemble de ceux utilisés sur les forums. J'ai aussi dû me débarrasser de cette tôle après quelques ajustements de roulette.

Aimerait toutes les données avant / après que vous avez des événements avec et sans les montants.

Merci, malheureusement j'ai changé une multitude d'articles avec les montants et ne pense pas que je puisse donner trop de sens à la comparaison avant / après. Peut certainement encore partager quelques commentaires sur l'usure des pneus sur la route.

Redd a écrit

Intéressé à entendre votre avis sur le diff de Giken.

Giken diff est génial, sur la piste je peux le sentir verrouiller plus vite que mon diff OE, puis dans la rue il est complètement silencieux et assez similaire à OE. Parfait pour une voiture de rue / piste. Beaucoup d'autres mods que je classerais avant le diff - comme la suspension, les sièges baquets, les trucs de sécurité, même l'échappement (j'adore le son de la S65) mais je pense toujours que c'est un bon mod et je suis heureux de l'avoir fait pendant que ma voiture était en panne. En fait, je soupçonne que changer le rapport anneau / pignon et le rapport de lecteur final serait plus avantageux pour votre argent, mais aussi échangerait simplement le diff en même temps si vous alliez au problème. J'ai quitté le mien 3.15 (DCT) pour l'instant puisque je n'ai pas encore pris de décision finale sur la recharge (ou non).

Je dois également noter que pour une voiture axée sur la piste, je suivrais dogboneconseils et aussi faire un Spec X personnalisé OS Giken afin que le comportement de verrouillage est optimisé pour la piste.

Pour référence mon OS Giken install thread est ici - LINK

slcook54 wrote

Been wondering if 295/30 would fit with this setup. Contemplating upgrading to TTX down the road. Likely add flossman fenders to give some extra room.

I run 295/30-18 RE-71RS which run a bit wider than even the A052 of the same size and am able to clear with 12mm spacer on 10.5 ET22. This is with strom uprights and no other after market control arms up front. I'm debating adding SPL stuff to the front to add more camber (not that the car needs it, just to clear my stock fenders)

redpriest wrote

I run 295/30-18 RE-71RS which run a bit wider than even the A052 of the same size and am able to clear with 12mm spacer on 10.5 ET22. This is with strom uprights and no other after market control arms up front. I'm debating adding SPL stuff to the front to add more camber (not that the car needs it, just to clear my stock fenders)

Got it. I'm talking to Dominik at Flossman right now, going to see if that will help with fitment. Remind me your suspension? I'm on Ohlins and was not planning on ditching the helper or running a shorter spring to clear the perch.

slcook54 wrote

Got it. I'm talking to Dominik at Flossman right now, going to see if that will help with fitment. Remind me your suspension? I'm on Ohlins and was not planning on ditching the helper or running a shorter spring to clear the perch.

MCS 3 way

redpriest wrote

I run 295/30-18 RE-71RS which run a bit wider than even the A052 of the same size and am able to clear with 12mm spacer on 10.5 ET22. This is with strom uprights and no other after market control arms up front. I'm debating adding SPL stuff to the front to add more camber (not that the car needs it, just to clear my stock fenders)

In my experience with the SPL arms, they do not help in aiding clearance. Since the adjustment is at the bottom it just pushes the bottom of the tire outwards to achieve more negative camber, but the top of the tire stays in the same position (for the most part). Adding camber from the top is the only way to really help fender clearance. I ended up slotting my strut tower holes to help with this as adjusting my arms at the bottom did not help my clearance issues.

Why does no one make inverted dampers like attached

The top plate is a simple design. The pillow ball sits in a separate race held in by allen screws. Easy design with a lot of flexibility. You can modify it for more castor/camber. The damper top nut sits flush to the plate and slides under the strut tower.

So ///mobbin and tlrid3r have installed the Strom uprights.
What were the end results with these?
There seemed to be lots of talk about under steer being worse.
Anyone looked into some billet rear upright to correct roll centre the same as these fronts??

Chavey wrote

So ///mobbin and tlrid3r have installed the Strom uprights.
What were the end results with these?
There seemed to be lots of talk about under steer being worse.
Anyone looked into some billet rear upright to correct roll centre the same as these fronts??

So I don’t actually have enough track time on them to claim an end result but a few more comments.

Confirming again the massive bump steer correction at my much lowered ride height. This was one of my main motivators in going for this part.

Anecdotally I have also set PR’s at the two tracks I’ve visited, including COTA, but many many variables there. Maybe the point here is I don’t have any negative feedback yet, balance of the car was great on track.

The next test for me is going to be tire wear. Just installed a new set of Cup 2’s on my drive to the track set but not a ton of track days on the calendar so may be awhile before I provide more thoughts.

I have also considered a rear roll center correction kit and there is a company in Germany that makes one via solid offset bushings but as I feel balance is good I haven’t been motivated to make more changes. tlrid3r has this kit installed and may have more feedback.

I just ordered a Wisefab kit for the rear, well the drift kit is for the front, but they have a kinemtics revised grip kit for the rear. I believe the correction is for more than 20mm. If it works as they write, it would be the ultimate kit.

Chillig wrote

I just ordered a Wisefab kit for the rear, well the drift kit is for the front, but they have a kinemtics revised grip kit for the rear. I believe the correction is for more than 20mm. If it works as they write, it would be the ultimate kit.

https://usa.wisefab.com/bmw-e9x-m3-rear-suspension-kit

link for anyone interesting in seeing the RCC rear

I will be looking to have billet rear uprights to go with the Strom uprights to have the rear corrected in the same way.
All going well it should be about the same cost.

Chavey wrote

I will be looking to have billet rear uprights to go with the Strom uprights to have the rear corrected in the same way.
All going well it should be about the same cost.

Who is making them?

I have done front roll center correction with Strom uprights and rear roll center correction with MK offset bushing kit.

Car is balance and I believe it’s allowing me to use less spring and keep the car stable and happy even with mild aero.
Car is neutral. No excess understeer like I experienced at first with just upright. I did increase more front caster, that was cherry on top. I’m very happy with handling. Now the driver skill is lacking.

Just read through this…I picked up a set of the strom uprights; I also have the spl arms; did anyone figure out the rubbing issue with 18” (e88) wheels?

I put everything together and when tested fitted the wheels, realized that the inner barrel is hitting the TR bolt (head).

I am going to remove all the spacers tomorrow (except conical spacer) and try it again.

Let me know if anyone figured out the setup with spl arms. Thanks.

Lienrocs wrote

Another FYI (though it's a pretty niche problem), if you're trying to use these knuckles with SPL tie rod ends and 18 inch E88's you can't without swapping out some hardware on the TRE's. There's contact.

tsk94 wrote

Another member mentioned issues with fitment up front with one of his sets of wheels as well.

I would just grind the head of the bolt down on that corner by a mm to clearance it and you should be fine. If not I'll take the uprights off your hands

Lienrocs wrote

I just snagged some different hardware. Problem solved.

I've got another set sitting on the shelf I'll sell you.

Lienrocs wrote

Second update: if you have E88's, Strom knuckles and SPL TRE's the TRE will contact the barrel of the wheel so you either need to get different wheels, Oem TRE's or file down the edge of your shiny SPL part.

(My wheels are 18 by 10.5 et 18 for reference. I think a narrower E88 may not have an issue but don't quote me on that.)

what was the solve for this combination (strom upright + spl TR + e88 fitment)?

SOLD - SOLD - SOLD



If anyone is looking for a set, I have set for sale…never used.

Reason for sale, these are not compatible with SPL arms…so have decided to revert to OEM knuckle + spl arms.

$2750 + shipping (significant savings for a new set)

The strom knuckes are compatible with SPL parts. You just need to remove all the SPL spacers.

I would like to know who was the drunk who "invented" these knuckles.

Ninekrpm sell that garbage and buy m4 gts billet knuckles.
With these knuckles you can use 513m rims 10.5" et46 without spacer, and 763m 11" et30 without spacer.

These knuckles are authentic work of art of bmw.


With gt4 ball joints it looks spectacular:







On 18 rim:

Track/S wrote

I would like to know who was the drunk who "invented" these knuckles.

Ninekrpm sell that garbage and buy m4 gts billet knuckles.
With these knuckles you can use 513m rims 10.5" et46 without spacer, and 763m 11" et30 without spacer.

These knuckles are authentic work of art of bmw.


With gt4 ball joints it looks spectacular:

Good choice in suspension

Track/S wrote

I would like to know who was the drunk who "invented" these knuckles.

Ninekrpm sell that garbage and buy m4 gts billet knuckles.

M4 GTS knuckles are a direct bolt on? M4 GTS arms necessary? Have you measured the change in geometry?

tsk94 wrote

Good choice in suspension

911r wrote

M4 GTS knuckles are a direct bolt on? M4 GTS arms necessary? Have you measured the change in geometry?

Yes, direct bolt on, don't need gts arms.

For more than -3° of camber need some work on camber plates and adjustable arms.
I did not measure the geometry changes.