Power Steering Pump DIY?

alpine_e90m3 a écrit

La nouvelle pompe est allumée mais om reçoit toujours une fuite je crois que c'est de (10) dans l'image ci-dessus. Quelqu'un connaît la spécification de couple pour 10?

Je ne sais pas le couple, mais la mienne avait 2 rondelles d'écrasement en aluminium (article 11), une de chaque côté du raccord banjo.
Typiquement, il n'est pas recommandé de réutiliser les rondelles d'écrasement, cependant, j'ai pu réutiliser la mienne en lappant à la main les deux côtés de chacun avec du papier de verre à grain 400 sur une plaque de rodage en acier.

En outre, inspecter toutes les surfaces d'accouplement pour tout entailles ou rayures.
Les systèmes d'étanchéité métal à métal sont sensibles aux finitions de surface.

J'ai vérifié à nouveau. Enlever le ventilateur, les courroies et la poulie thermo pour tout voir et ne pas voir de fuite visible. J'ai aussi vu des gens dire que le boulon de banjo (10) est un 19mm mais tout ce que j'avais sur le jour du retrait était un 22 etorx qui a été capable d'adapter. Ai-je besoin d'un 22mm à paroi fine ? J'ai senti un peu de fluide sur la ligne d'aspiration qui a les seuls clips BMW cert j'ai utilisé des colliers de serrage en raison de ne pas avoir l'outil CST. Mon dernier plan d'action est de vider le fluide de la section (6) retirer complètement la pompe et vérifier l'élément de maintien du clip (6) sur la pompe.

I don't remember the size of the hex on the banjo bolt, but if it is 19mm, then a 3/4" socket will work just fine. .75" x 25.4 = 19.05mm.
I used an 24.1mm Oetiker clamp for my repair.
When you get it back apart, and on the work bench, I recommend you closely inspect the hose for any splits or pinholes.
Make sure to clock the entire hose assembly as close as possible, to the position it will live once mounted back on the car, PRIOR to tightening the clamp.
We want to avoid over twisting the hose once everything is bolted back up to the engine.

Nice. Write up OP. Going to be doing this in a few days.

Is it necessary to replace the ps pump when it leaks?

cb1 wrote

Nice. Write up OP. Going to be doing this in a few days.

Is it necessary to replace the ps pump when it leaks?

If it's just seeping from the hose, I don't think that alone would be a reason to replace the pump, unless the leak caused it to run low on fluid and that caused the pump to get real hot.
But if it's leaking around the shaft or between the housing and end plate, well then you might want to replace it.

Davisca455 wrote

If it's just seeping from the hose, I don't think that alone would be a reason to replace the pump, unless the leak caused it to run low on fluid and that caused the pump to get real hot.
But if it's leaking around the shaft or between the housing and end plate, well then you might want to replace it.

okay, thank you for the info, I am going to start tomorrow on it and hopefully I can figure out the leak source.

Really appreciate it. I also cant find a good source about any PS DIY, hopefully your thread can be stickied.

oh btw, I saw the belt goes under your PS pulley, which part number for the pulley did you use for replacement. I am researching which I would need (part # 002 or 041, or which Bosch part#) just in case it is the pump leaking.

cb1 wrote

Davisca455 wrote

If it's just seeping from the hose, I don't think that alone would be a reason to replace the pump, unless the leak caused it to run low on fluid and that caused the pump to get real hot.
But if it's leaking around the shaft or between the housing and end plate, well then you might want to replace it.

okay, thank you for the info, I am going to start tomorrow on it and hopefully I can figure out the leak source.

Really appreciate it. I also cant find a good source about any PS DIY, hopefully your thread can be stickied.

oh btw, does the belt go under or above your ps pump pulley? I am researching which I would need (part # 002 or 041) just in case it is the pump leaking.

My car has a build date of 06/08.
My belt routing is UNDER the PS pulley.

Davisca455 wrote

My car has a build date of 06/08.
My belt routing is UNDER the PS pulley.

okay cool man, same here, mine is under the pulley, if I do need it, can you confirm the Bosch part # in your picture as KS01000686? I cant tell if it's 686 or 696.

Thank you man!

cb1 wrote

Davisca455 wrote

My car has a build date of 06/08.
My belt routing is UNDER the PS pulley.

okay cool man, same here, mine is under the pulley, if I do need it, can you confirm the Bosch part # in your picture as KS01000686? I cant tell if it's 686 or 696.

Thank you man!

...686

THANK YOU again!

Davisca455 wrote

...686

How long is this install taking folks? I was quoted 5 hours a labor and wondering if its worth tackling myself or just having it done.

Took me no more than 2 hours. I suggest removing the rad fan and all cover under the car.

cb1 wrote

Took me no more than 2 hours. I suggest removing the rad fan and all cover under the car.

Exactly what I was hoping to hear! Thanks!

Cool man! Glad to help.

My steps are below if it helps, as far as I can remember.

1. Remove front under cover.
2. Remove skid plate.
3. Drain rad.
4. Remove hoses clipped to the bottom of the rad fan. I think it was like 4 clips.
5. Remove coolant reservoir. Gat rags. The bottom hose will have coolant. Move the 2 small hoses to clear the rad fan.
6. Remove the hose from the rads driver side. You can leave it connected to the water pump. This will help with removing the fan.
7. Unclip rad fan harness, remove torx from the rad fan top, passenger side.
8. Remove rad fan. Be sure to unclip the press clip on the driver side.
9. Take note or pictures of the belt routing. Depending on your build date, the belt can go under or above the ps pump pulley.
10. Release the belt tension for the ps pump belt.
11. Pump out ps fluid from the ps reservoir.
12. Follow the hose going to the bottom towards the pa pump. Its going to a connecter that has an aluminum cube. I forgot what it was called.
13. Get a small cup and shop rags for the next step.
14. Disconnect the one time use clamps with a screw driver. Put shop rags under it. Pull the hose and catch the ps fluid with the small cup.
15. I believe, from this point, its all unbolting.

You might need to remove both oil lines from the oil filter housing to remove the banjo bolt from the side of the ps pump.
Pm me if you have questions.

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Exactly what I was hoping to hear! Thanks!

Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?

Did you follow Busham's bleeding procedure?

DIY: Power Steering COMPLETE Flush

Davisca455 wrote

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?

Did you follow Busham's bleeding procedure?

DIY: Power Steering COMPLETE Flush

No I sure didn't, I just refilled the reservoir and topped it off when it got low. Now that I'm reading it I have no new clamps left or a vacuum plug to flush.

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Davisca455 wrote

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?

Did you follow Busham's bleeding procedure?

DIY: Power Steering COMPLETE Flush

No I sure didn't, I just refilled the reservoir and topped it off when it got low. Now that I'm reading it I have no new clamps left or a vacuum plug to flush.

... be aware that the belt pulleys can also make noise, that sound like a dying pump.

Davisca455 wrote

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Davisca455 wrote

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?

Did you follow Busham's bleeding procedure?

DIY: Power Steering COMPLETE Flush

No I sure didn't, I just refilled the reservoir and topped it off when it got low. Now that I'm reading it I have no new clamps left or a vacuum plug to flush.

... be aware that the belt pulleys can also make noise, that sound like a dying pump.

If I can't do a proper bleeding process, should I just suck out reservoir fluid and change it a few times. It's dirty already so I assume it's fixed with the old stuff still in the R&P

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Davisca455 wrote

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Davisca455 wrote

BlueM3Wagon wrote

Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?

Did you follow Busham's bleeding procedure?

DIY: Power Steering COMPLETE Flush

No I sure didn't, I just refilled the reservoir and topped it off when it got low. Now that I'm reading it I have no new clamps left or a vacuum plug to flush.

... be aware that the belt pulleys can also make noise, that sound like a dying pump.

If I can't do a proper bleeding process, should I just suck out reservoir fluid and change it a few times. It's dirty already so I assume it's fixed with the old stuff still in the R&P

If you can't remove the return line from the reservoir and cap the return nipple on the the reservoir, I guess the next best thing is to still follow the rest of Bushum's procedure, even though it will just dump the dirty fluid back to the reservoir?
But at least the air in the system would be purged.
But if the dirty fluid or a clogged reservoir filter is what killed the pump in the first place, then I don't know why I would expect a different outcome?

(Personally, I'd bite the bullet and get a new reservoir, with new filter, some rubber caps, a new hose clamp and do the full on Bushum procedure.)

The bimmerworld reservoir is really nice for flushes. I bought an extra 8an fitting and 8an cap so i can easily put a drain hose onto the return and cap the reservoir fitting. Don't have to fuss with the damn hose and clamp drama...

Bartledoo wrote

The bimmerworld reservoir is really nice for flushes. I bought an extra 8an fitting and 8an cap so i can easily put a drain hose onto the return and cap the reservoir fitting. Don't have to fuss with the damn hose and clamp drama...

I did the same thing.
I even considered teeing in a valve on the return path, that redirects flow from the return to the reservoir, to a separate drain hose.
But then I told myself "Dude, I think you have some physiological issues to work out?"