Publiez vos spécifications d'alignement.

Ce serait génial si nous pouvions comparer les spécifications d'alignement des membres, surtout si vous êtes abaissé.
Vos spécifications et vos commentaires seraient appréciés, et s'il vous plaît laissez-nous savoir quelle suspension vous utilisez.

Good thread!


Suspension: KWv3 lowered about 1.25 in front and 1.25 in rear

Wheels: HRE P40
F: 9 x 19 +22
R: 10.5 x 19 +22

Tires:
F:255/35/19
R: 285/30/19

Front:
Left Camber: -1.5
Right Camber: -1.5

Left Caster: 7.0
Right Caster: 6.5

Toe In: 1/16 in


Rear:
Left Camber: -1.75
Right Camber: -1.75

Toe In: 1/8 in

NO RUBBING!!

Some perspective first. Here are the factory specs:

FRONT:
Camber> -0º45' to -1º35' (-0º57' and -0º46')
Toe> +0º01' to +0º09' (0º07' and 0º08')
Caster> no range given (7º11' and 7º16').

REAR:
Camber> -1º30' to -2º00' (-1º34' and -1º35')
Toe> +0º01' to +0º09' (0º08' and 0º08')
Total Toe> +0º02' to +0º18' (0º15')
Thrust Angle> -0º04' to +0º04' (0º00')

Told my dealer to align with lowest numbers possible, but said range is so little once within spec they don't mess with it. Wonder if that's true. Anyway, my alignment numbers are in parenthesis if somebody wants to comment.

elp_jc wrote

Some perspective first. Here are the factory specs: ...

Stock setup?

nuespeedgti wrote

Stock setup?

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192175
You can find the stock #s there.

STALKER wrote

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192175
You can find the stock #s there.

i meant is elp_jc running his stock suspension or something after market.
i am just curious how easily the M gets into spec after lowering. from experience
i know on most cars additional supporting mods are needed to get everything
back into spec, such as adjustable control arms and camber plates. the lack of
this discussion in this forum leads me to believe that the stock setup has the
ability to adjust back into spec, but we all know about assumption. this will be
my first m3 so excuse the ignorance.

nuespeedgti wrote

i meant is elp_jc running his stock suspension or something after market.
i am just curious how easily the M gets into spec after lowering. from experience
i know on most cars additional supporting mods are needed to get everything
back into spec, such as adjustable control arms and camber plates. the lack of
this discussion in this forum leads me to believe that the stock setup has the
ability to adjust back into spec, but we all know about assumption. this will be
my first m3 so excuse the ignorance.

Depends on the drop.
Dinan will get you back to OEM spec if you choose, RD Sport might not.

I'm dropped about 1.25" front and 1" rear.

Up front, I've got -2 camber on both sides with 0 toe.
In back, I got -1.8 camber on both sides and 0 toe. I asked for more camber in back after a weekend at Willow where the PS2's were a bit chewed up on the edges in back. Nothing dramatic, but I was getting the back raised a little anyway.

KW Clubsports

FRONT: -3.0 Camber, 0 Toe
REAR: -2.1 Camber, 1/16 toe in each side

265 tires all around.

TUNEDM3 wrote

KW Clubsports

FRONT: -2.8 Camber, 0 Toe
REAR: -2.4 Camber, 1/16 toe in each side

265 tires all around.

You running that on street and track?
Very aggressive for street. Must handle very well out on track.

nuespeedgti wrote

i meant is elp_jc running his stock suspension or something after market.

Stock buddy. I was disappointed tech left toe at the high end of the spec, when I clearly told him I wanted everything at the lower end. Hope that doesn't chew my tires early. The worst thing is toe wasn't out of spec and was at the lower end of the spec, and this clown left it worse than before. They just don't want to spend an extra second to do things right; creeps. The way they get paid has always been a huge conflict of interest IMO, but what can we do. Just avoid dealers as much as you can, like I do.

I also wondered if our cars get out of spec with the long trek from Germany. Mine was barely out of spec with camber, which is typical when suspension is compressed for long periods of time. I remember my GTO (imported from Australia) had collapsed bushings from the ocean trip. With $2K tires, wanted to make sure it was properly aligned. Take care.

Maybe we could include ride height .... post a format. (Similar to OMID INC's post above).... and make this a sticky?

Here's a copy of mine - comments appreciated. They said they could not get it within spec for front camber, due to the drop. I didn't think I had dropped it that much (approximately 1.25" rear, 1 inch front)

KW V3

I would VERY much welcome comments. I have no idea about such things, and simply asked them to align to specifications, with slight toe-in, to minimize excessive tire wear.

aus wrote

I'm dropped about 1.25" front and 1" rear.

Up front, I've got -2 camber on both sides with 0 toe.
In back, I got -1.8 camber on both sides and 0 toe. I asked for more camber in back after a weekend at Willow where the PS2's were a bit chewed up on the edges in back. Nothing dramatic, but I was getting the back raised a little anyway.

You running plates up front to get -2 camber?

TTBear wrote

Here's a copy of mine - comments appreciated. They said they could not get it within spec for front camber, due to the drop. I didn't think I had dropped it that much (approximately 1.25" rear, 1 inch front)

KW V3

I would VERY much welcome comments. I have no idea about such things, and simply asked them to align to specifications, with slight toe-in, to minimize excessive tire wear.

You got a lot of negative camber for our car, which is OK if you take some turns aggressively or do some HPDE. Otherwise, be sure to check the inside edge of your tires for wear since it may wear there faster than the outside edge.

STALKER wrote

You running plates up front to get -2 camber?

Yes. The plates come with the Cross coils.

aus wrote

You got a lot of negative camber for our car, which is OK if you take some turns aggressively or do some HPDE. Otherwise, be sure to check the inside edge of your tires for wear since it may wear there faster than the outside edge.

Thanks for the input! The dealer told me that due to the "extreme" drop (huh?) they couldn't get the camber to within spec. at the front end.

I was under the impression that contrary to popular belief, camber has less to do with inner edge wear than toe-in???? (Which is why I asked for a slight toe-in, to compensate).

And yep - I do quite a few driver education events. Mostly autocross format, on this track:



Cheers!

You'll be fine since you'll be doing some hard driving. You may want even more negative camber.

And toe does eat up your tires more than camber, but it's just something to check. Over time the inside edge will wear faster than the outside edge. I was running on the cords on the E36 M3 and didn't know it because the outside edge looked fine.

Thanks - sort of what I had thought, but it's nice to get confirmation from those that know more than I do!

Cheers!!

My car is still on the stock suspension. Will be lowered soon, but in the meantime I was to get a more aggressive alignment for upcoming track days.

Any suggestions? Remember, car is still on stock suspension for now.
Thanks.

I think people here have pulled the alignment pin to get about -1.6 up front, but that's about as negative as you can get.