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06/03/2025LAST POST
Bonjour mods, étant donné le nombre de plaintes au sujet des vibrations du volant, j'ai décidé de faire un article ci-dessous, et espérait l'obtenir comme collant pour aider tout le monde. Heureux pour tout feedback.

Causes courantes de vibrations (à l'exclusion du judge de frein). Parcourez la liste et finalement elle sera résolue.

1) Les roues et les pneus sont déséquilibrés
2) La roue est pliée, ce qui entraîne un essieu ou une course radiale (quelques millimètres peuvent être ressentis)
3) Le moyeu de roue n'est pas assis à fleur avec le moyeu de la voiture
4) L'axe de roue (alésage central) n'est pas centré sur le moyeu de la voiture (très commun avec les roues du marché secondaire qui viennent avec des anneaux d'axe). La roue doit s'adapter parfaitement autour de la lèvre du moyeu de la voiture.
5) boulons de roue non torsadés dans le modèle correct ou à la valeur correcte
6) Le pneu a trop de course en dépit d'être en équilibre i.e. Le pneu oscille d'un côté à l'autre ou de haut en bas malgré une roue en alliage parfaitement ronde
7) Le flanc du pneu a une variation de rigidité - guéri par l'équilibre des forces de la route
8) Roulement de roue plié ou usé
9) Les composants de suspension sont défectueux ou hors alignement
10) Les disques/rotors de frein sont déséquilibrés (en particulier après-vente) ou ont une rotation elliptique (dans la direction radiale) en raison de mécanismes flottants défectueux / usés ou d'une mauvaise fabrication.

La configuration du châssis de la M3 est suffisamment précise pour qu'il y ait peu de tolérance à toute imperfection. Mon M3 et bien d'autres ont été parfaitement lisses à partir de neuf. Toute vibration est un problème quelque part. 99% du temps, c'est à voir avec la roue et le pneu en alliage. Même si les pneus et les jantes en alliage s’équilibrent parfaitement à l’aide d’un équilibreur dynamique, il existe encore un certain nombre de problèmes qu’une roue et un pneu peuvent avoir et qui peuvent causer des vibrations, à savoir:

A.Pneumatique ou roue
B.Est-ce que le moyeu de la roue est parfaitement aligné avec le moyeu de la voiture
C.Comment le robinet de la roue repose sur la lèvre du moyeu de la voiture - hubcentric
D.L’irrégularité de la rigidité du flanc du pneu

Je peux garantir que si la roue et le pneu sont bien équilibrés et les 4 points ci-dessus sont vérifiés, 99% des problèmes de vibrations seront résolus. Notez également qu'il existe généralement 3 types de vibrations que l'on peut ressentir à travers le volant:

Vibrations rythmiques - cela est dû à un déséquilibre sur la voiture
Vibration de la chaussée - texture de la chaussée
Vibration d'impact - auto-explicatif

La vibration rythmique est celle qui nécessite une fixation.

L'équilibrage des forces de la route, bien que meilleur que l'équilibrage dynamique, ne traite toujours pas des points A, B et C. Les points A, B et C peuvent être diagnostiqués à la maison ou chez un bon mécanicien. Tout ce dont vous avez besoin est un bon œil.

Mon expérience personnelle :
J'ai eu une légère vibration aux mêmes vitesses et j'ai remonté la voiture et tourné les deux roues avant et il y avait un petit virage dans le bord intérieur de l'une des roues avant - pas plus de 2-3 mm par fidélité. J'avais tout arrangé et tout était bien. Avait un autre ensemble de roues enduites de poudre personnalisée et a fini par vibrer, qui s'est avéré être due à l'embout ayant un peu trop de peinture et ne pas se permettre d'être parfaitement à fleur avec le moyeu de la voiture.
Wonderful information. Subscribed.\

What are the chances that wheel vibration occur after coming back from the track?
Having an uneven surface on the tires can cause this as well right?
Day Laborer wrote
Wonderful information. Subscribed.\

What are the chances that wheel vibration occur after coming back from the track?
Having an uneven surface on the tires can cause this as well right?
Yes, vibration after a track day is common due to the following:

Flat spots from sitting at the pits when the tyres are hot
Tyres out of balance due to wear
Tyres out of balance due to pick up of hot tyre marbles
Wheel bolts may have also come slightly loose during the track day
Wheel weights have fallen off
Tyres may have slipped on the wheel due to cornering and braking forces
thanks for this great info.
FYI; I just had my car back from the dealership; resulted in steering wheel vibrations due to over-torquing the lug nuts on the wheels
I'd expand on the wheel bearing and just say that it could be worn in general too, not just bent?
iDontAlwaysDrink wrote
I'd expand on the wheel bearing and just say that it could be worn in general too, not just bent?
Yup, worn bearing certainly is a potential cause as well. Updated.
Day Laborer wrote
FYI; I just had my car back from the dealership; resulted in steering wheel vibrations due to over-torquing the lug nuts on the wheels
Good to hear.
mlhj83 wrote
Yup, worn bearing certainly is a potential cause as well. Updated.
Yay! I contributed! Do I get my cookie now? :D
Thread referenced by ajvee in Steering Wheel Vibration Woes Continue! 13/08/2012
:thanks:
Add to the list-spacers. Took mine off, vibration stopped. Others have had similar experience.
:word:
bsiciliano wrote
Add to the list-spacers. Took mine off, vibration stopped. Others have had similar experience.
bsiciliano wrote
Add to the list-spacers. Took mine off, vibration stopped. Others have had similar experience.
I have spacers too and the steering wheel vibration is driving me insane now. I tried getting them road force balanced, but that didn't help.

My (noob) question is: If I take them into a shop to get them removed, do the wheels need to be road force balanced again? Or can they just remove the tires, remove the spacers, and put the tires back on?
Also, if the bearings are loose, that can cause vibrations. If you take the wheels off for any reason, always re-torque your lug bolts/lug nuts after about 100 miles of driving.
bsiciliano wrote
Add to the list-spacers. Took mine off, vibration stopped. Others have had similar experience.
Wheel spacers that are hubcentric and sit flat on the hub of the car, and have a lip that protrudes sufficiently to align the wheel centrally, do not cause vibration.
knicks0819 wrote
I have spacers too and the steering wheel vibration is driving me insane now. I tried getting them road force balanced, but that didn't help.

My (noob) question is: If I take them into a shop to get them removed, do the wheels need to be road force balanced again? Or can they just remove the tires, remove the spacers, and put the tires back on?
Take the spacers out and put the wheels back on. Don't need to rebalance the wheels and tyres, as they were balanced on a machine and not on the car with the spacer installed.
elm3 wrote
Also, if the bearings are loose, that can cause vibrations. If you take the wheels off for any reason, always re-torque your lug bolts/lug nuts after about 100 miles of driving.
Yes, those are on the list.
Thanks for posting this info op. I'm going to be specific on the type equipment for sake of this comman issue, not to blame or point fingers at any manufacture. So about 1.5 years ago (18,000) miles ago. I installed an AP BBK New with 12mm spacers. From that day on I have had vibes in the steering at about 80mph range and stronger vibration while braking. About a year ago switched to New ARC-8 wheels, New tires, got rid of the spacers and it never got better. Road force balanced, no hard track days of braking, BMW has checked out the front end. Even did some disc face cleaning with race pads to clean the rotor surface of any pad deposits. Nothing makes a difference. I wish I still had all my OEM parts but don't so can't compare back to stock. Ideas
Thanks.
BimmerRob08 wrote
Thanks for posting this info op. I'm going to be specific on the type equipment for sake of this comman issue, not to blame or point fingers at any manufacture. So about 1.5 years ago (18,000) miles ago. I installed an AP BBK New with 12mm spacers. From that day on I have had vibes in the steering at about 80mph range and stronger vibration while braking. About a year ago switched to New ARC-8 wheels, New tires, got rid of the spacers and it never got better. Road force balanced, no hard track days of braking, BMW has checked out the front end. Even did some disc face cleaning with race pads to clean the rotor surface of any pad deposits. Nothing makes a difference. I wish I still had all my OEM parts but don't so can't compare back to stock. Ideas
Thanks.
Here's my differential diagnosis for your problem, given that it occurred post BBK install and also under braking:
-imbalanced brake disc (unlikely given AP quality, though still a possibility)
-the AP strap drive system may be faulty or are not aligned properly, such that the disc may be wobbling up and down or side to side relative to the hub. (this is most likely)

What you can do is jack your car up, take your wheel off, get a clothes hanger wire, secure one end to a fixed part of the suspension, and bring the other end as close to the brake disc as possible without touching. Now, retract the brake pads sufficiently to allow the brake disc to spin freely, then spin the disc and watch the surface of the disc relative to the pointed end of the clothes hanger wire. The purpose of the pointed end of the wire is to help you see any wobbling of the disc. If you can see wobbling, then you have found your culprit.

If no wobbling is visible, then I would go to a garage or get a run-out gauge and do the same thing as above, which will provide a measurable reading if there is any brake disc runout. If no significant runout is visible, then I would proceed and have the AP brake discs checked for balance at your brake dealership and any specialist with the right equipment.

I have had wobbling aftermarket floating brake disc issues before in a previous car.
Good technique, but I already measured run out on the orginal disc's from AP. They were about 007" which was too much. Stilen has been working hard with me to figure this problem out. They rebuilt the strap drive on those discs and still no difference. O actually ended up getting new discs a year ago for this problem from AP and the problem is the same but the vibration is a little better on the second set. We'be even tried a different set of AP calipers with street seals and removed the piston springs to allow less pressue on the disc while at cruise.
BimmerRob08 wrote
Good technique, but I already measured run out on the orginal disc's from AP. They were about 007" which was too much. Stilen has been working hard with me to figure this problem out. They rebuilt the strap drive on those discs and still no difference. O actually ended up getting new discs a year ago for this problem from AP and the problem is the same but the vibration is a little better on the second set. We'be even tried a different set of AP calipers with street seals and removed the piston springs to allow less pressue on the disc while at cruise.
Great to know that Stillen is helping out, always good to have reputable service.

Is it possible to get some non-strap drive discs that can safely fit under the front calipers and then go for a test drive to truly rule out the AP strap drive discs as being the culprit?

Also, you could use other good quality fixed-floating brake disc (oem for example, you only need one disc) and then remeasure runout to make sure that the wheel bearing is not the one causing the problem.

Unless, you have tried the above already, and we can move on.

Another thing to do is to rule out rear chassis and propshaft vibration, which is done by raising the car securely (wheels completely off the ground) and running the car up to the speed that you get vibration. If you get vibration, then it isn't from the front chassis, or it could also mean that the front chassis isn't the only source of vibration.
mlhj83 wrote
Great to know that Stillen is helping out, always good to have reputable service.

Is it possible to get some non-strap drive discs that can safely fit under the front calipers and then go for a test drive to truly rule out the AP strap drive discs as being the culprit?

Also, you could use other good quality fixed-floating brake disc (oem for example, you only need one disc) and then remeasure runout to make sure that the wheel bearing is not the one causing the problem.

Unless, you have tried the above already, and we can move on.

Another thing to do is to rule out rear chassis and propshaft vibration, which is done by raising the car securely (wheels completely off the ground) and running the car up to the speed that you get vibration. If you get vibration, then it isn't from the front chassis, or it could also mean that the front chassis isn't the only source of vibration.
I've done most of the work in regards to measurements, removal, testing, etc. and measured Hub Bearing face run-out and it was spot-on true on both bearings. I think there is another type of hub (hat) for the front discs and Stilen is looking at that too. Not tested yet on my vehicle. I'll have to do more work with them on that.

As for car up on jacks, wheels off and running up to 80mph without any road/load factor I don't have the means to do that. But I could have the rear end checked out. That thought did pass my mind. The only reason why I'm thinking that it has to do with the AP kit is because like I mentioned earlier, this vibration issue started the day I installed the kit and been the same pretty much with two different AP discs but I know this BBK is one of the best selling out there so I'm very puzzled, as are the guys helping me out from Stilen and AP. I've even tried swopping my front wheels with a 6 series and a co-workes '11 E92 M3 with ZCP 19" wheels. My wheels did not vibrate on the other car(s) and the vibration was the same on mine so I can pretty much rule out the front wheels at this point.
BimmerRob08 wrote
I've done most of the work in regards to measurements, removal, testing, etc. and measured Hub Bearing face run-out and it was spot-on true on both bearings. I think there is another type of hub (hat) for the front discs and Stilen is looking at that too. Not tested yet on my vehicle. I'll have to do more work with them on that.

As for car up on jacks, wheels off and running up to 80mph without any road/load factor I don't have the means to do that. But I could have the rear end checked out. That thought did pass my mind. The only reason why I'm thinking that it has to do with the AP kit is because like I mentioned earlier, this vibration issue started the day I installed the kit and been the same pretty much with two different AP discs but I know this BBK is one of the best selling out there so I'm very puzzled, as are the guys helping me out from Stilen and AP. I've even tried swopping my front wheels with a 6 series and a co-workes '11 E92 M3 with ZCP 19" wheels. My wheels did not vibrate on the other car(s) and the vibration was the same on mine so I can pretty much rule out the front wheels at this point.
So it sounds like it's pretty much down to the brake disc being the culprit then. Hope you get them sorted eventually. Do let us know when you find out what exactly is wrong with them.
78. You're driving on a crappy road.