DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

mes autres photos de mon cluster

breakey12345 écrit

Bonjour c'est mon histoire, j'ai un problème avec mon corps de papillon. Le prix de détail de l'actionneur est de 1500$ et 4 heures pour la main-d'œuvre au Canada. Très cher donc je décide d'acheter un usage de l'angleterre sur ebay. Mon mécanicien le remplacer et j'ai à nouveau le mode boiteux avec l'erreur peut bus banque 1 corps de papillon.
J'ai ce problème juste au moment où je démarre mon M3, parfois je n'ai pas ce mode mou. C'est un problème intermittent, mais je suis très fatigué. Je prends ces 5 photos de mon groupe. J'ai besoin d'aide. Pourriez-vous me dire quand vous avez des problèmes avec l'accélérateur, avez-vous la même alarme sur le cluster. Excusez mon anglais, je suis canadien.

J'ai donc 5 moteur de contrôle dans mon cluster quand le mode boiteux arrive et que mon régime coupe un 3500. Regardez l'image ci-dessous.

Merci beaucoup

Tout ce que je peux dire, c'est qu'il devrait essayer de vider les codes. J'ai utilisé l'outil Bavarian Technic (OBD2). Certains membres ont eu de la chance et n'ont rien à faire, mais dans votre cas, ce devrait être l'étape suivante. Ces erreurs semblent que la voiture est toujours en mode mou, donc effacer les codes ou peut-être réinitialiser les actionneurs de l'accélérateur va le réparer.

Notez que je n'ai pas eu à les réinitialiser.

breakey12345 écrit

mes autres photos de mon cluster

J'ai eu ces mêmes codes et le mode boiteux activé hier 5 minutes dans mon lecteur. Je me suis arrêté, j'ai coupé le contact et redémarré. Les messages d'erreur ont disparu et la voiture a bien fonctionné. Devrais-je m'inquiéter de l'actionneur d'accélérateur stupide qui se grenading? C’est le cas de « l’ingénierie allemande ». J'aurais dû aller avec un GTR à la place

How you resseting the throttle actuators. I dont read anything for reset the throttle.
What is the procedure. I try to reset the code but now is steal there.

Thank you for your help it is very apreciate

Majin Buu wrote

I had those exact same codes and the limp mode activate yesterday 5 minutes into my drive. I pulled over, shut down the ignition and restarted the car. The error messages were gone and the car ran fine. Should I be worried about the stupid throttle actuator grenading itself? So much for "German engineering". I should've gone with a GTR instead

Grenading itself? If it goes bad, change it and get on with it. It's not the end of the world.

breakey12345 wrote

How you resseting the throttle actuators. I dont read anything for reset the throttle.
What is the procedure. I try to reset the code but now is steal there.

Thank you for your help it is very apreciate

I don't think resetting it is necessary because none of us that did the job had to do it. However, I would use Bavarian Technic to clear all the codes. This is something your mechanic should be able to do if he has the tools for it.

I have a nice little warning code (not full blown as it is pending, no CEL) about something with the Throttle Actuator. Saw this code with the Tuning software when it was installed. Car still drives fine...just waiting for it go so I can replace it!

W/// wrote

Grenading itself? If it goes bad, change it and get on with it. It's not the end of the world.
.

Typical BMW-koolaid-drinking fanboy response. The fact is that there is no excuse for all those stupid actuators failing so often and so soon. Nor is there an excuse for the ridiculous cost of replacing it out of warranty.

Majin Buu wrote

Typical BMW-koolaid-drinking fanboy response. The fact is that there is no excuse for all those stupid actuators failing so often and so soon. Nor is there an excuse for the ridiculous cost of replacing it out of warranty.

Think whatever you want. I bought an M3 over all the other cars I was looking at because the S65 engine is very reliable. It cost me $800 for the parts, and did the DIY in half a day without having a clue as to what I was doing.

Compared to let's say an E46 M3, this car is a damn angel. Not that I'm a GTR expert, but do you know how much it costs to change the dual clutch fluid? Yea, it's ridiculous too. If you can't afford a $1k emergency repair on this car, then it's not for you. And neither is a GTR.

I can afford a $1k repair. But the fact is I shouldn't have to. From all the stories of how often and how soon this part fails, and not just on our cars but also on the S85 v10 M5, it is obvious the design of the part itself is either flawed, or the quality of materials is mediocre. Whatever the cause is, there really should have been a recall to inspect and possibly replace this part. It's also a safety hazard as well. Imagine your engine shutting down while being tailgated by a transport truck at 100 km/h on the highway!

The part that replaces this is identical or re-design part number?

My car is a 2011.5 with 34,XXX miles and is now throwing an ABS & DSC warning the last 5 mornings after cold start up.

Up to this point, in this particular car I've had NO weird codes or any of that.
I have NOT yet gone into limp mode or seen an increased emissions warning.
That DID happen on my 2008 E90 M3.

After take the car in for the scheduled maintenance and warranty work I'll share the results. Sounds like the precursor of all of the above.

davem3fan wrote

My car is a 2011.5 with 34,XXX miles and is now throwing an ABS & DSC warning the last 5 mornings after cold start up.

Up to this point, in this particular car I've had NO weird codes or any of that.
I have NOT yet gone into limp mode or seen an increased emissions warning.
That DID happen on my 2008 E90 M3.

After take the car in for the scheduled maintenance and warranty work I'll share the results. Sounds like the precursor of all of the above.

Are you sure? I'd think the CEL would be the the sign of doom, rather than DSC/ABS. That sounds more like speed or brake sensor? I could be wrong of course

W/// wrote

Are you sure? I'd think the CEL would be the the sign of doom, rather than DSC/ABS. That sounds more like speed or brake sensor? I could be wrong of course

Agreed. A bad throttle actuator will definitely trigger a CEL and limp mode.

malter2.0 wrote

The part that replaces this is identical or re-design part number?

As far as I know, it's identical. I don't think there has been any redesign or reengineering of that part. Still the same piece of crap part since 2007.

RBB wrote

Agreed. A bad throttle actuator will definitely trigger a CEL and limp mode.

Yep...just had bank 1 replaced last month at 56K.

Hey I replaced the actuator today and the problem has gotten worse! Now the car barely starts, stalls on its own, and has a very rough idle. And doesn't rev past 2000 rpm. I never cleared the error codes from the original actuator. Do I just have to clear the codes or is it possible the replacement part is also malfunctioning? So fucking fed up with this shit.

mkoesel wrote

Add me to the list.

I puked a little but when the dealership quoted their price so many thanks for posting this DIY. My only hesitations right now are lack of free time and a general distaste for working on cars in cold weather. But that labor price is nuts.

Question: they suggested perhaps attempting to replace the sensor first since it is the cheaper route and might also be the problem. Good idea? I was actually a bit surprised that the codes wouldn't tell them more precisely what should be replaced...

If you are a DIY type, you can always record the codes, swap sensor from one side to the other and see if the code changes. If not, do the same with the throttle actuator and see if it switches the side for the codes.

You would be surprised how little dealer techs apparently follow ISTA troubleshooting.

EDIT: I just went back and reread your post with error codes. All three codes refer to the bank 2 throttle actuator. There are multiple variations, without the last 7 of the VIN, can't narrow it down fully. However, one of the errors refers to "actuator bottom stop" so that pretty much rules out a sensor.

Majin Buu wrote

Hey I replaced the actuator today and the problem has gotten worse! Now the car barely starts, stalls on its own, and has a very rough idle. And doesn't rev past 2000 rpm. I never cleared the error codes from the original actuator. Do I just have to clear the codes or is it possible the replacement part is also malfunctioning? So fucking fed up with this shit.

No clearing of codes required. Do you know the exact error codes led you to the correct actuator?


Edit: Re-read posts...The DME conducts a "pre-drive" test when the ignition is turned on before the engine is started. It cycles the actuators fully open and shut and detects any errors in position. So, the error code may be stored, but will not actuate limp mode if the test passes.

jcolley wrote

No clearing of codes required. Do you know the exact error codes led you to the correct actuator?


Edit: Re-read posts...The DME conducts a "pre-drive" test when the ignition is turned on before the engine is started. It cycles the actuators fully open and shut and detects any errors in position. So, the error code may be stored, but will not actuate limp mode if the test passes.

My code was 2B15 which apparently means throttle actuator governor bank 1. I replaced the actuator for the passenger side, which i assume is bank 1 per this DIY. And after I did it the problem is now worse. The actuator I got was used but supposed to be working properly per the seller. It came from a recycled 2010 M3.

Majin Buu wrote

My code was 2B15 which apparently means throttle actuator governor bank 1. I replaced the actuator for the passenger side, which i assume is bank 1 per this DIY. And after I did it the problem is now worse. The actuator I got was used but supposed to be working properly per the seller. It came from a recycled 2010 M3.

So, I half mis-spoke. ISTA does tell you to perform a throttle actuator test. This may be required to let the DME "learn" the new actuators settings. You can also perform this with DIS. If you don't have a copy, bmtechnic.co.uk sells a nice, easy to use version with a cable for cheap. Invaluable owning this car.

JC919 wrote

My question is why have some throttle actuators failed on practically new cars and others on cars with considerable mileage? If it happens to a car that is very low mileage, that would probably mean a problem with the manufacturing of these throttle actuators, whereas the older ones could just wear out.

Either way, in my mind this is a design flaw with these BMW V8s and I am happy to at least not be paying for the parts because the quote I recieved for each bank was atrocious.

So, I've been looking into these quite a bit (I have the teardown thread on M5board) and have 5 dead actuators now sitting in my basement. Every one has worn teeth at the exact point the teeth align when the actuator throttle bodies are fully shut.

On the S85, the throttle actuator itself has a little more travel to its spring shut position that it can not make due to the linkage and the throttle body being fully shut. I expect this is for some margin for safety in case slop develops on the linkage. I do not know if the S65 is the same, but from the pictures, it looks like it could be. For the S85, when the throttle body is shut, the actuator linkage arm is at top dead center. Disconnect the linkage and the actuator arm will spring another 30 degrees or so.

Since the wear occurs at this point, I suspect that it all happens at very low throttle. On the S85, you can drive around at any RPM (even close to redline in 1st) with light throttle and only the idle actuators are open. Only when you get past about 30% pedal does the throttle actuator finally open. This makes me wonder if the engine vibrations on the motionless teeth in contact may be causing the wear.

If you open one up (5 torx screw), you'll see the middle gear shaft drops into a hole in the circuit board. There is no bearing surface (like a thrust bearing) on the circuit board), so that means the white gear must have some play. I've been wondering if it isn't moving back and forth on the shaft due to the vibration and wearing prematurely.

At any rate, I have a set of drawings out to a CNC gear shop and hope to have the first set to test soon. I redesigned the black output gear (the black one) to be made of brass so it will not wear again. That way all the wear occurs on the white gear and that is very easy to replace. Future repairs would likely be under $15. Whenever I get them back, I'll post here and let you guys know if it works or now.

On M5board, a few guys are trying an outfit in the UK called BBA Reman whe says the can refurbish them. No positive experience yet, but they quoted around $300.

jcolley wrote

So, I've been looking into these quite a bit (I have the teardown thread on M5board) and have 5 dead actuators now sitting in my basement. Every one has worn teeth at the exact point the teeth align when the actuator throttle bodies are fully shut.

On the S85, the throttle actuator itself has a little more travel to its spring shut position that it can not make due to the linkage and the throttle body being fully shut. I expect this is for some margin for safety in case slop develops on the linkage. I do not know if the S65 is the same, but from the pictures, it looks like it could be. For the S85, when the throttle body is shut, the actuator linkage arm is at top dead center. Disconnect the linkage and the actuator arm will spring another 30 degrees or so.

Since the wear occurs at this point, I suspect that it all happens at very low throttle. On the S85, you can drive around at any RPM (even close to redline in 1st) with light throttle and only the idle actuators are open. Only when you get past about 30% pedal does the throttle actuator finally open. This makes me wonder if the engine vibrations on the motionless teeth in contact may be causing the wear.

If you open one up (5 torx screw), you'll see the middle gear shaft drops into a hole in the circuit board. There is no bearing surface (like a thrust bearing) on the circuit board), so that means the white gear must have some play. I've been wondering if it isn't moving back and forth on the shaft due to the vibration and wearing prematurely.

At any rate, I have a set of drawings out to a CNC gear shop and hope to have the first set to test soon. I redesigned the black output gear (the black one) to be made of brass so it will not wear again. That way all the wear occurs on the white gear and that is very easy to replace. Future repairs would likely be under $15. Whenever I get them back, I'll post here and let you guys know if it works or now.

On M5board, a few guys are trying an outfit in the UK called BBA Reman whe says the can refurbish them. No positive experience yet, but they quoted around $300.

sounds great. The MAFIA stealership here quoted me a price of over $1600 + tax for 1 actuator. That's over twice what the americans south of the border claim to be paying. Once again, we canadians get ripped off and screwed up our rear ends.