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20/11/2013LAST POST
Donc, mon liquide de frein est faible et je dois ajouter un peu (aucune idée de ce qui est là-dedans). Donc, puisque j'ai 56k miles, je me suis dit que je ferais juste un saignement et rincer de toute façon avec du nouveau fluide.

Que recommandez-vous ? Utilisez principalement la rue avec quelques jours de piste / autoX par an. La voiture (sage de frein) est en stock.
Beaucoup de bons choix: Motul RBF 600/660, StopTech STR 600/660, Endless RF-650, etc. Un clin d'œil à RBF 600 pour être un bon équilibre entre prix et performance.

Je ne vois pas le besoin pour les trucs fous comme Castrol React SRF à moins que vous ayez des problèmes avec l'ébullition du liquide très rapidement et régulièrement.
I used to alternate ATE Typ200 (gold) and Super Blue (blue). However, the blue's gone NLA. Now, I find myself looking for something with similar performance that isn't such a specialized buy (read, can get it on Amazon or something).

I'm due for a flush soon also. So, I too am curious to hear what others have to say :)
gimmethemuumuu wrote
I used to alternate ATE Typ200 (gold) and Super Blue (blue). However, the blue's gone NLA. Now, I find myself looking for something with similar performance that isn't such a specialized buy (read, can get it on Amazon or something).

I'm due for a flush soon also. So, I too am curious to hear what others have to say :)
Plenty of Internet-order companies have the SuperBlue in stock. The fluids I listed above actually surpass SuperBlue as far as boiling points. SuperBlue was only popular because it was easy to bleed. From a performance perspective, it wasn't that remarkable.

I'm surprised no one has figured out how to sell a standalone dye you can add.
Motul here as well
Thanks for the responses all. Leaning towards Motul due to the price / performance balance.
How many bottles do I need (ml) (I think 32oz was mentioned in the DIY further down in the thread).

Plan on getting Motul RBF600 from amazong (500ml) so if 32oz is need, need to buy 2 bottles.
dparm wrote
Plenty of good choices: Motul RBF 600/660, StopTech STR 600/660, Endless RF-650, etc. A nod goes to RBF 600 for being a good balance between price and performance.

I don't see any need for the crazy stuff like Castrol React SRF unless you have problems with boiling the fluid very quickly and regularly.
Your missing the advantage of SRF, especially if you track the car.
It cost more, but you won't have to change it for much loner because the wet boiling point (which is the main number you should be looking at) is MUCH higher than all the others. That means it'll last a lot longer. It's also a larger bottle, so you buy one bottle vs two for most others.

If you're not tracking, then ATE will work just fine. NO WAY you can get your brakes that how on the street unless you're being VERY illegal.

.
happos2 wrote
How many bottles do I need (ml) (I think 32oz was mentioned in the DIY further down in the thread).

Plan on getting Motul RBF600 from amazong (500ml) so if 32oz is need, need to buy 2 bottles.
You'll want two bottles if you're flushing the system. The Motul bottles are 1/2 L, whereas most others are a full liter.
dparm wrote
Plenty of Internet-order companies have the SuperBlue in stock. The fluids I listed above actually surpass SuperBlue as far as boiling points. SuperBlue was only popular because it was easy to bleed. From a performance perspective, it wasn't that remarkable.

I'm surprised no one has figured out how to sell a standalone dye you can add.
I'm aware that the ATE fluids aren't the greatest, performance-wise. However, for those of us who don't track their cars, it's performance is more than enough. So, something comparable would also be sufficient.

Regarding color, I'm assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that one could just use blue food coloring in a clear or amber fluid to largely the same effect :confused2
gimmethemuumuu wrote
I'm aware that the ATE fluids aren't the greatest, performance-wise. However, for those of us who don't track their cars, it's performance is more than enough. So, something comparable would also be sufficient.

Regarding color, I'm assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that one could just use blue food coloring in a clear or amber fluid to largely the same effect :confused2
At a high-level, yes, blue food coloring does the same thing. I'm not sure I feel comfortable putting food coloring in that system though.
On the street?! Just get the free shit with maintenance then.
Dashman wrote
There are advatages to running better fluid than OE, the higher wet boilng points means it will last longer between changes, and the higher dry temp resists brake fade at extreme operation

But if the dealer is covering it, go OE
dealer will install any fluid you want also if you provide it to them.
pkim1079 wrote
On the street?! Just get the free shit with maintenance then.
Agree. I don't think you'll be able to generate enough heat in the brakes driving around town to see a noticeable improvement from the expensive fluids.


BMW DOT4 brake fluid
WET BOILING 311*F
DRY BOILING 446*F


For the record: even ATE Type 200 (aka SuperBlue without the blue), which is on the lower-end of the performance fluid spectrum, has higher wet and dry boiling points.
You will NEVER get to that wet point on the street. EVER.
pkim1079 wrote
You will NEVER get to that wet point on the street. EVER.
what if i was in a sustained evasion of the cops?
1MOREMOD wrote  
pkim1079 wrote
You will NEVER get to that wet point on the street. EVER.
what if i was in a sustained evasion of the cops?
Then absolutely no braking then.
pkim1079 wrote
Then absolutely no braking then.
thats how you lose them? being able to run up to an intersection at 100 and mash the brakes and make the turn while they start slowing a block beforehand. do this a few times and your home free, or so i have heard. they have a little advantage in that they have open diffs so dont get sideways nearly as easy. you can counter by shutting off your lights and running stealth mode.
1MOREMOD wrote  
pkim1079 wrote
Then absolutely no braking then.
thats how you lose them? being able to run up to an intersection at 100 and mash the brakes and make the turn while they start slowing a block beforehand. do this a few times and your home free, or so i have heard. they have a little advantage in that they have open diffs so dont get sideways nearly as easy. you can counter by shutting off your lights and running stealth mode.
Go 100. Stay wide right. Turn in early. Tiff needell that shit sideways. Lol.
pkim1079 wrote
Go 100. Stay wide right. Turn in early. Tiff needell that shit sideways. Lol.
you only get away if you dont wad it up.
1MOREMOD wrote  
pkim1079 wrote
Go 100. Stay wide right. Turn in early. Tiff needell that shit sideways. Lol.
you only get away if you dont wad it up.
I like tickets much better than jail. :D

Do that for a couple blocks and all of a sudden there is a bright ass light shining on you from above. Freaking ghetto birds.