Brake upgrades?

Has anyone upgraded their brakes and can offer feedback - or fitted optional brake ducting?

The stock brakes are decent, but was thinking about fitting stoptech ST-60's to the front for ocaassion track use.

OEM brake fade isn't too bad, but just wanted to know if they're worth the big $ and will allow later and harder braking? Would there be any issues only fitting a front kit?

If its just occasional track use, a set of track pads would do the job. Plenty will fit the oem caliper. Just look at the tracking forum to get ideas in which ones to get.

To answer your question , a bbk may not necessarily equate to improved braking performance. Improved resistance to fading - yes. If course better resistance to fade means you can get on the picks hard more often but absolute stopping distance may not be significantly better. I've found that the main factor in how late you can brake is the size of your testicles.

As for the value equation, well that's up to you. There are plenty of guys with bbks who never intend to see the track but will attest to the value of a bbk.

There a plenty of guys who know much much more on this than I do on the suspension , brakes and chassis forum and I'm happy to be corrected by them.

MFKN3 wrote

Has anyone upgraded their brakes and can offer feedback - or fitted optional brake ducting?

The stock brakes are decent, but was thinking about fitting stoptech ST-60's to the front for ocaassion track use.

OEM brake fade isn't too bad, but just wanted to know if they're worth the big $ and will allow later and harder braking? Would there be any issues only fitting a front kit?

This is a good post and seems to cover the subject fairly well...

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=680096&highlight=brembo+stock


and another one I know is on your mind right now

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721461&highlight=supercharge

For 4-6 track days a year I'd fit Pagid RS29 front pads and run Castrol SRF brake fluid, this would give you a pretty good session before the fade really set in.

If you're semi-serious about tracking the car, I would strongly suggest investing into a BBK, at least for the front. The pedal feel, fade resistance and consistency is far superior to any "upgraded stock brakes setup". And it also gives you that piece of mind which is very welcome on the track, especially when it comes to braking.

Thanks for input everyone.

I tend to brake very late and hard and do get a bit of fade toward last few laps. My technique's probably not ideal though.

Fade isn't terrible though, so hard to justify $3,300 on an ST-60. OEM brakes are still very decent compared to other cars I have driven. I will prob look at some track pads for starters and I'm due for fluid swap soon too.

OEM brakes are good for 8 laps at the most with hard braking

May as well get some stainless steel brake lines if your replacing your brake fluid.

Going with SS lines, track pads and motul 600. Sessions are quite brief and will complement 18" apex arc8 with Nitto nt01 275's all corners.

nice combo. which pads are you going with?

MFKN3 wrote

I tend to brake very late and hard and do get a bit of fade toward last few laps. My technique's probably not ideal though

This. Have a look at your technique, or get someone to come with you and critique your driving. I've had professional drivers drive my car, and the things they could do was amazing.

HP+ pads. They're a track pad that are suitable to drive to and from the track, but no good for daily driving. Pagid's would have been nice, but would rather put that money towards BBK. Will see what difference this set up makes...

Thanks Tom, I know. I have another training session soon

I have EBC Green in both cars (the e36 and e92) but the E36 has AP's and it'll stop all day every day.

I am not so sure on the E92, with the EBC's and stock everything else (but better fluid) I don't think it does very well. I came down Mt Hotham one day and the smell and feel of the brakes was shithouse.

The E36 might go to yellow's soon seeing as its not registered any more, so I don't need to think about brakes on a normal road anymore.

A couple more thoughts that may be helpful.......

1. OEM rotors are not heavy duty enough to cope with track use if you change up your friction material. They will crack out from the drill holes.

2. In respect of the above, if you get BBK, make sure you get slotted rotors.

3. I run a Brembo GT 380 front and 365 rear. Cooked a hardware set using Hawk DT 60. After replacing, Brembo recommended Pagid RS29. They have been really very good.

4. COOLING is vital. If you drive hard and want to get the most from your track sessions, you need this. I have custom backing plates (Cantrell racing)
that direct ducted flow from my duct inlets (on front lip) to the centre of the rotor for centrifugal venting, which is basically A race car setup.

5. Don't buy all the tales about DD use. If you can tolerate at bit of noise and a slight hit on cold brake performance, it's not worth the hassle of constant pad changes.

6. SS lines and high performance fluid a must.

7. Don't remove the backing plates - they are heat shields that protect lines, sensors, ball joints, etc from rotor heat

If you are track-serious, go a BBK. Brembo, Stoptech both good. Also locally, a poster on this forum (can't recall alias) produces Harrop - look quite nice.

Cheers
J

jpc wrote

A couple more thoughts that may be helpful.......

1. OEM rotors are not heavy duty enough to cope with track use if you change up your friction material. They will crack out from the drill holes.

2. In respect of the above, if you get BBK, make sure you get slotted rotors.

3. I run a Brembo GT 380 front and 365 rear. Cooked a hardware set using Hawk DT 60. After replacing, Brembo recommended Pagid RS29. They have been really very good.

4. COOLING is vital. If you drive hard and want to get the most from your track sessions, you need this. I have custom backing plates (Cantrell racing)
that direct ducted flow from my duct inlets (on front lip) to the centre of the rotor for centrifugal venting, which is basically A race car setup.

5. Don't buy all the tales about DD use. If you can tolerate at bit of noise and a slight hit on cold brake performance, it's not worth the hassle of constant pad changes.

6. SS lines and high performance fluid a must.

7. Don't remove the backing plates - they are heat shields that protect lines, sensors, ball joints, etc from rotor heat

If you are track-serious, go a BBK. Brembo, Stoptech both good. Also locally, a poster on this forum (can't recall alias) produces Harrop - look quite nice.

Cheers
J

Thanks JP,

OEM brakes at the local track hold up fine on 15min sprint sessions, so will be interesting to see the difference after mods. When my car does back-to-back sessions though it does get a bit hot.

Was looking at cooling but the GTS duct kit is too dear. If only someone made an entire aftermarket duct, pipe and back plate kit... Also can't believe this feature didn't come stock! I think cooling alone would probably make the OEM setup miles better.

That's good to know about DD track pads. I heard the hawk hp+ are very very noisy and will chew through rotors when cold. I have to swap wheels, so pads would take an extra hour probably. Could probably leave them in during track season though.

I'm just happy and privileged getting out to a track in an M3 for a bit of fun It's an addiction

The track pads, fluid and steel lines were night and day over stock.

Highly recommend!!

The Nitto NT01 semi slicks also held up well.

my OEM rotors' life is up and need replaced.

what are the recommendation for replacement rotor that will fit the stock caliper? Looks like there are a few choices like OEM, Zimmerman, StopTech?

i'm thinking about trying the ferodo DS2500 pad that everyone seems to like as well.

Get the Harrop Ultimate brake kit

KevinKMi wrote

Излишняя сухость воздуха – это извечная летняя неувязка. Зимой втомжедухе воздух может быть некотороеколичество суховат. Мойка окон зданий в современных жилых помещениях все реже сталкивается так именуемая генеральная организация интерьера. Так что ежели вы ощущаете, что ему нехватает воды, то элементарно добавьте ее. Приобретите маленький увлажнитель, настройте его и подключите.

Хорошо, ежели приспособление станет делать еще и очистительные функции. Регулярная влажная чистка Ну и, естественно же, невозможно забрасывать о влажной уборке. Проводить ее необходимо как минимум 1 2 раза в недельку. В современных жилых помещениях все реже сталкивается так именуемая генеральная организация интерьера поддерживающая уборка коттеджа цена . Следует воспринимать, что пыль в дом заносится в всяком случае, и этого момента никоимобразом не избежать. Зато разрешено избежать лишнего скопления данной самой пыли, не дозволяя ее скопления желая бы на раскрытых поверхностях. Так что чаще держите в руки влажную тряпку и швабру, и ухаживайте за собственным зданием.

Wow this is really helpful to my questions... thanks kevin! Say hi to Donald for me!

Guys,
anyone care to commont on the option of just change the front brakes to a Stoptech 355 or similar, and leaving rear as original fit?

Currently:
Stock rotors and calipers front and rear
EBC yellowpads
Race fluid
SS lines
Conty road tyres

I get a small amount of pad (not fluid) fade after 20 mins on track.
When I start with semi-slicks I suspect the greater heat into the brakes will become by limiting factor.

Just change the front calipers to something like Stoptech 355 ??

anyone?

Ski1 wrote

anyone?

Jarrad changed his front brakes to Harrop and left the rears stock. As you know he mostly uses the car on the track and it's driven pretty hard and he's had no issues so it's a good option the direction you are taking