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07-24-2026LAST POST
Direct bolt on but the E92 M brakes won't work. You need F3x/F8x or non-M E9x brakes, yeah?

Any info on geometry changes and part numbers?

Edit: Did some digging. Part numbers are 31219500209 and 31219500210. They're $2,500 each. Geometry changes look like a little additional caster and camber. No mention of roll center anywhere.
amg6975 wrote
Direct bolt on but the E92 M brakes won't work. You need F3x/F8x or non-M E9x brakes, yeah?

Any info on geometry changes and part numbers?
Right, but i don't think anyone who wants to use GTS knuckles is going to want to use OEM brakes.

Part numbers:
31219500210
31219500209


I have the knuckles scanned, I am calculating to compare with the price of BMW, I think I could make them cheaper, and also make it in such a way that it can be mounted in E and F series without any modification for abs sensors and calipers.
Somewhat related... I'm thinking of doing F8X front uprights on my E92. I have lots of M4 bits from my M4 track car that I want to transfer over to an E92 M3, including the full BW Alcon BBK. Was thinking about swapping on the F8X front knuckles to use the Alcons on the E92 that way. Then source the E9X rear caliper bracket, or make a custom one for the rear kit.

When people do the F8X upright swap, are they still using E92 control arms? Can you use the F8X front tension arm if you do the upright as well? Or would you still need to use an E92 specific arm? tdott's user avatartdott Would you happen to know?
Track/S wrote
Right, but i don't think anyone who wants to use GTS knuckles is going to want to use OEM brakes.
Yes probably but then anyone with a BBK already on their car will need a new adapter at the least.
amg6975 wrote
Yes probably but then anyone with a BBK already on their car will need a new adapter at the least.
I have BBK brackets for F series, these can be mounted on E series with some spacers.

Image hosted on: i.ibb.co


Image hosted on: i.ibb.co


Image hosted on: i.ibb.co


Image hosted on: i.ibb.co
911r wrote
M4 GTS knuckles are a direct bolt on? M4 GTS arms necessary? Have you measured the change in geometry?
Bolt on, swapping nothing you can expect some more neg camber (not the correction knuckles) at a higher ride height. Again, assuming you change nothing else except the knuckle, hub.

Tension strut hole to hole is the same IIRC. The other arm will put your wheel into the fender liner.
tsk94 wrote
When people do the F8X upright swap, are they still using E92 control arms? Can you use the F8X front tension arm if you do the upright as well? Or would you still need to use an E92 specific arm? tdott's user avatartdott Would you happen to know?
I am still using the E9x arms with the f8x uprights.

Not sure what changes would be if using f8x tension arms.
So I ended up getting the Strom uprights for the new E92 I'm building.
Now that these have been out for a while and a few people here are running them, I'm wondering what the general consensus is for how much less static camber you should run with these?

I know the uprights themselves reduce negative camber when you do a straight swap between the factory uprights. I would typically run around -3.5* to -3.8* up front on my old car, depending on track, tires, etc. About how much less should I expect to want to run with these?

Appreciate any insight :D

Image hosted on: i.imgur.com
tsk94 wrote
So I ended up getting the Strom uprights for the new E92 I'm building.
Now that these have been out for a while and a few people here are running them, I'm wondering what the general consensus is for how much less static camber you should run with these?

I know the uprights themselves reduce negative camber when you do a straight swap between the factory uprights. I would typically run around -3.5* to -3.8* up front on my old car, depending on track, tires, etc. About how much less should I expect to want to run with these?

Appreciate any insight :D

Image hosted on: i.imgur.com

I’m running 3.6-3.8, but my spring rate is a bit lower than most. But these make it safer to run -4+ degree. Without it you can hyper extend the lower control arms as these fix the roll center, the control arms are at a much better neutral position intended by bmw. Also there is a limition on the strut tower. Most camber plates allow the shock shaft to hit or bind with the tower. I developed a enlarged strut tower and reinforcement plate.

Working well.
Attached imageAttached image
tlrid3r wrote
tsk94 wrote
So I ended up getting the Strom uprights for the new E92 I'm building.
Now that these have been out for a while and a few people here are running them, I'm wondering what the general consensus is for how much less static camber you should run with these?

I know the uprights themselves reduce negative camber when you do a straight swap between the factory uprights. I would typically run around -3.5* to -3.8* up front on my old car, depending on track, tires, etc. About how much less should I expect to want to run with these?

Appreciate any insight :D

Image hosted on: i.imgur.com

I’m running 3.6-3.8, but my spring rate is a bit lower than most. But these make it safer to run -4+ degree. Without it you can hyper extend the lower control arms as these fix the roll center, the control arms are at a much better neutral position intended by bmw. Also there is a limition on the strut tower. Most camber plates allow the shock shaft to hit or bind with the tower. I developed a enlarged strut tower and reinforcement plate.

Working well.
Thanks for the info. What spring rate are you running? I'll need to double check mine, it's either 800 or 740, I think 800 though.

Is that a custom reinforcement plate you had added on, and slotted the holes? I normally slot the strut tower holes, which I'll need to do on mine still.
tlrid3r's user avatartlrid3r

Appears you have the camber plates installed “sideways”. Caster adjustment being used for camber?

Nice job on the cutout. Probably worth reinforcing, no?
DRLane wrote
tlrid3r's user avatartlrid3r

Appears you have the camber plates installed “sideways”. Caster adjustment being used for camber?

Nice job on the cutout. Probably worth reinforcing, no?
They are correct. It matches the instructions and I still doubted so I spoke directly with nitron to confirm.
These camber plates are awesome they allow to adjust camber without changing caster.

It was reinforced you can see. But glad it was done so clean you can barely notice But here is a better picture.
Attached image
DRLane wrote
tlrid3r's user avatartlrid3r

Appears you have the camber plates installed “sideways”. Caster adjustment being used for camber?

Nice job on the cutout. Probably worth reinforcing, no?
You can also see others user install per instructions.

Video reference ass well
Attached image
Weird that Nitron would do it the inverse of everyone else. The reinforcement looks nice indeed.
Hi everyone, I decided to go with the Strom uprights with oem arm. I’m struggling getting more than -3.2 front camber. I also have adjustable rear arms. So I think this is constricting my ability to setup the car for a track dot tire or slick. It seems people are able to achieve a lot more with similar setups. Any thoughts or ideas to get me -4.0 degrees in front? The car has MCS coilover and vorshalg camber plates. I’ve also attempted to trim the strut tower lip for the nut clearance…

Thanks everyone
Ryan
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-3.2 seems like right where you'd want to be with the strom uprights, no? The whole point of them is you don't need to run as much static camber.
rTrackM3 wrote
Hi everyone, I decided to go with the Strom uprights with oem arm. I’m struggling getting more than -3.2 front camber. I also have adjustable rear arms. So I think this is constricting my ability to setup the car for a track dot tire or slick. It seems people are able to achieve a lot more with similar setups. Any thoughts or ideas to get me -4.0 degrees in front? The car has MCS coilover and vorshalg camber plates. I’ve also attempted to trim the strut tower lip for the nut clearance…

Thanks everyone
Ryan
Similar experience on my car - Strom uprights with stock arms got me around -3.2* max. I ended up slotting my shock tower holes to allow more adjustment.

That said, after doing some tire temps this past weekend, I'm going to dial some camber out and end up running around -3.25~ again, compared to the -3.5 I am currently.
Hi, Does anyone have a part number or link to the upgraded F82 GTS knuckles? Doing the rear Flange Hub Upgrade GT4 kit. Replacing new wheel bearings all around as well. Would like to look into this too soon.
Track/S wrote
:thumbsup:





Yes, direct bolt on, don't need gts arms.

For more than -3° of camber need some work on camber plates and adjustable arms.
I did not measure the geometry changes.
sammyF82GT4 wrote
Hi, Does anyone have a part number or link to the upgraded F82 GTS knuckles? Doing the rear Flange Hub Upgrade GT4 kit. Replacing new wheel bearings all around as well. Would like to look into this too soon.
Be careful, to mount GTS steering knuckles you need specific suspension.
In RealOEM you have all part numbers.
tsk94 wrote
Similar experience on my car - Strom uprights with stock arms got me around -3.2* max. I ended up slotting my shock tower holes to allow more adjustment.

That said, after doing some tire temps this past weekend, I'm going to dial some camber out and end up running around -3.25~ again, compared to the -3.5 I am currently.
There is a new part coming down the pipeline for the MCS dampers. I got ahold of them and installed. If I want I can now get -4.1-4.4 with the Strom knuckles. I’ve tested them on track with more camber and there is a significant improvement with the car / lap times. Here is how much I had to cut the shock tower. Nothing out of the ordinary.
Attached image
rTrackM3 wrote
There is a new part coming down the pipeline for the MCS dampers. I got ahold of them and installed. If I want I can now get -4.1-4.4 with the Strom knuckles. I’ve tested them on track with more camber and there is a significant improvement with the car / lap times. Here is how much I had to cut the shock tower. Nothing out of the ordinary.
Can you hare what this new MCS part is? I'd love me some -4 degrees camber.
BigTee wrote
Can you hare what this new MCS part is? I'd love me some -4 degrees camber.
I believe he is referencing this......

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Camber-Caster-Parts/MCS-Offset-Strut-Adapter-Sleeve-Set-M2-M3-M4-E9X-F8X-G8X.html

Ride height will impact the maximum, but it could get you there. I have stock uprights, stock control arms and tie rods, Vorshlag camber plates and these offset sleeves. It maxed out at about -4.25. With 6" main springs and helpers I needed a 5mm spacer to clear 18x10.5's (et 22) with 275's. With 5" main springs and helpers I didn't need any spacers for the same wheels and tires.