Air filter assembly removal question

Hi all,

Was going to replace my throttle actuators and fuel tank breather valve this weekend and ran into this at the very beginning -- I couldn't remove the air filter assembly -- after removing the two 10mm bolts secure the assembly I still felt the assembly is fixed to something at the bottom.

When I finally opened the lid here's what I saw



Closer look


From the bumper side


So I got one of those LTBMW 1M-M3 bumper installed by a shop a while ago. Part of the process is to hack the airduct so that the lower part (1M air duct) will somehow meet with the upper part (OEM M3 air duct). From where I can see it looks like the airbox assembly was bolted to the upper airduct, not sure if it's also molded together since I couldn't get the the other side of it.

I am not sure why it's done this way since the upper air duct is supposed to be OEM. The only explanation I got is that since the OEM duct can no longer be secured to the bumper the shop had it secured to the air filter assembly.

The reason I am posting here is to get a second opinion from y'all. If my assumption is right then I will have to bring it to a shop

Thank you guys have a great weekend!

Yep, that is definitely the way it is from start. The filter box should not be screwed down that way, its only the two 10mm bolts that holds it.

Thanks man - I am will be jacking up the car to see if I can get to those screws from the access window on the fender liner later today as my last attempt. I live in an apartment and it's not the best place to take everything apart. Thanks for the confirmation though.

what you theorized was correct. that duct is normally sandwiched between the m3 bumper and lower part of the airbox. there is a bracket that sort of goes along the back of it, but it probably wouldn't be super strong by itself, and they added two more screws. the front fender liner isn't difficult to take off, but it helps to have that wheel off as well.

another alarming thing is there appears to be a coating of oil residue collecting in your lower airbox.

roastbeef wrote

what you theorized was correct. that duct is normally sandwiched between the m3 bumper and lower part of the airbox. there is a bracket that sort of goes along the back of it, but it probably wouldn't be super strong by itself, and they added two more screws. the front fender liner isn't difficult to take off, but it helps to have that wheel off as well.

another alarming thing is there appears to be a coating of oil residue collecting in your lower airbox.

Yes, looks like oil in the bottom of the box, shouldn't be any.

Jeez, I initially didn't pay much attention and thought it was water -- but I haven't driven the car for a week. What could possibly contribute to this? header gasket?

The car doesn't have a history of burning oil AFAIK. I am around 7400 miles since last oil change (next due soon). Could it be oil level too high in this case? After the last oil change the indicator has been at 1 tick from the top (at the top triangle, see below, not my car) and IIRC that means a little too much oil?

Will check the intake elbow later today as well.

cheweihu wrote

Jeez, I initially didn't pay much attention and thought it was water -- but I haven't driven the car for a week. What could possibly contribute to this?

Nothin I can think of. Did you oil the filter while it was on the car? Lol

roastbeef wrote

Nothin I can think of. Did you oil the filter while it was on the car? Lol

I don't think so. Last time I replaced the filter was about 10k miles/2years ago. It's a K&N so mostly like not. About to head out to pick up my floor jack from the storage. Will check other parts of the intake as well once I am back lol. Thanks dude

TVA's and the Fuel Tank Breather Valve don't fail at only 35k miles.

Make sure you use the Rebuilt UK TVAs that are upgraded. They are distributed by M Power Motorsports in Detroit. Return the broken TVA cores. Don't return working TVAs.

https://mpowermotorsports.org/

You might be able to do the TVAs without removing the lower airbox. Removing the air filter and intake duct to the plenum should be enough.

Sometimes removing the kidney grille intake duct by the hood latch helps when reassembling the airbox. 2x T20 screws (horizontal from the front).

Not sure about the oil leak stain. It is more than likely from the road and not your engine. Follow the oil trail upward.

Over filling the oil is common and causes no harm, since the engine burns oil (1L per 3k-5k miles). So it will go away by itself. Ignore the warning.


Cheers

nyc_dude wrote

TVA's and the Fuel Tank Breather Valve don't fail at only 35k miles.

Make sure you use the Rebuilt UK TVAs that are upgraded. They are distributed by M Power Motorsports in Detroit. Return the broken TVA cores. Don't return working TVAs.

https://mpowermotorsports.org/

Cheers

Hi there,

Thanks for responding! No that's not a photo from my car. My car's got a tad more than 80k and according to ProTool it's TVA in Bank 1 that's failing. On top of that I am also experiencing some symptoms of failed tank breather valve (jerky idle after refueling) so decided to replace everything in one go.

I did order rebuilt ones from Abdul! Got them this week.



I have a modified bumper and had to relocate the OEM duct hence the shop drilled two holes on the airbox to secure it. I just removed the wheel and the fender liner, after removing those two bolts I was able to then remove the airbox. The OEM duct was actually floating there and secured to the airbox and the fender liner.

I do see some oil stain from this angle as well. However I checked the intake elbow it's clean so dont think the oil is coming from the engine. It may be because the duct is open on the other end so it picked up the oil from outside. (hopefully)

Thanks!

The film on the surface is strange, but unless your air filter was soaked in oil it is very unlikely it came directly from the motor. Someone may have been using an oil based air filer (AFE or other) at some point. Just wipe the surface and check if it comes back.

its an oddity, but i probably wouldn't worry about it if your car isn't leaving the occasional spot where you park it.
i have oiled filters on all my cars and they have never left any airbox looking like that. with that much oil on the filter to drip off and saturate the box, you'd be having engine problems.

Need some help, almost there

How do I remove the actuator struts? Looks like I should pop 'em out but the edge of the housing looks pretty fragile (I am using trim removal tool trying to push it out) so want to double check.



How do I remove this connector? It looks like there are two clips at one end (top) but the other end (bottom) is rotatetable so I am not sure on which end should I remove it.




Should I remove this connector? Following W///'s DIY I have pulled the two clips away from the engine and I don't think I can reach that connector...



I think I have these three left, any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks!

top one looks like it has a C style snap ring. are you still doing the fuel tank breather? i don't think you have to unplug all that stuff.

LOL I am doing 2 throttle actuators first before getting to the breather valve. Actually found the answer for the first one for thisjust use a flathead screw driver to pop it out.

For the second question, from the same video I see that he didn't remove it either.

The connectors was a proper pain to disconnect on my car. The big showing on your 2nd pic I believe I left alone (sits in a piece of metal clip?) although the DIYs said remove it, wasn't needed.

The wired connector down on the front, the way I remember it it was simply a quite light pull and it came out.

Reg the oil in the filterbox; like you say must be old dirt from outside or your filter would look very scary.

Reg oil level; no worry about top level. Personally typically keep mine at Max (full bar) just because I like it that way. Car will let you know if you overfill (don't).

Helmsman wrote

The connectors was a proper pain to disconnect on my car. The big showing on your 2nd pic I believe I left alone (sits in a piece of metal clip?) although the DIYs said remove it, wasn't needed.

The wired connector down on the front, the way I remember it it was simply a quite light pull and it came out.

Reg the oil in the filterbox; like you say must be old dirt from outside or your filter would look very scary.

Reg oil level; no worry about top level. Personally typically keep mine at Max (full bar) just because I like it that way. Car will let you know if you overfill (don't).

I just done replacing and put the car back together. The side that was broken (Bank 1) is okay now but the side that was fine (Bank 2) is now throwing code (2B22)....Grrrr, gotta do it again tomorrow

You are right, actually none of those plugs have to be removed as we are shoving the harness box to the left (passenger) side so it won't be pulling those wires.

This high is enough.


Lift the harness box (Don't forget there are two nuts at the end of the engine bay, lift them as well) and push it to the left



This is the angle to replace the actuators

Good work mate!

Ps. When done, time to detail the bay...😉