Wheel Weight Comparison

You wouldnt by any chance have the weights of the advan rs-d would you? can you also send me a price quote on them please? Shipped to 11103. Wanna go with a 19" setup. I feel like im putting too many performance mods on the car to b on 20's.

GregW / Oregon wrote

Do you have any clue as to how a 1" wider rim could only be 0.2 lb heavier? Very strange. Are the centers identical?

Greg,

I can explain this phenomenon for you from a manufacturing perspective...

The front (19x8.5) and rear (19x9.5) wheels are using essentially the same CENTER, combined with additional CNC milling on the rear wheel spokes, (separate from the "back milling" on the outside of the spokes), that yields an overall weight that is almost identical to the narrower front wheel. For structural integrity reasons, the outer rim (barrel) cannot be used to shave off weight on a street car applications. It has to come off the more durable forged center section, which has a few key areas that can be milled without sacrificing the structural integrity of the wheel.

A solid 3-D CAD design, innovative manufacturing and engineering refinements, extensive FEA stress analysis simulations, and impact and radial load testing of physical prototypes are required to make this happen.

This is assuming a company actually HAS a professionally-trained CAD (Soilidworks) wheel designer, and a Structural Engineer who has experience in the wheel industry. Don't fool yourself into thinking everyone has these tools at their disposal.

Remember this...

The weight of an aftermarket wheel can be manipulated in a number of different ways.

Some manufacturers use sound Engineering principles and innovative techniques to reduce the weight of their products. (without sacrificing quality to any great extent) Other manufacturers take 'calculated risks' to reduce their wheel weights and cap their overall costs. (USING THIN SPOKES AND OUTER RIM BARRELS FOR EXAMPLE)

A low-offset no-lip aftermarket wheel will have a modest impact on the final weight, because the ends of the spokes go all the way to the outer edge of the wheel barrel. This adds additional MASS...

Note how the LM-R wheel spokes are almost perpendicular to the inner barrel. (virtually straight up and down) You could put a straight edge on that wheel center and see almost no slope angle. The LM-R also has a step lip in the 20" sizes. The spokes are also very short. Essentially the same centers are used in the 19", & 20" diameter wheels. The outer barrels are step-lipped on the larger diameter 20" rims...because they have to be. (to make up the difference in size) The 19" wheel would of course have no step lip.

But the actual LM-R wheel center is really only 18" in diameter, so a bit of creative engineering is at play here. The outer edge of the center section has a 1/2" gap all the way around the wheel.

Technically...this is not a reverse lip or a step lip wheel. It's a "tweener".

1/2" + 1/2" on either side of center bore = 1" total

That is how you get a 19" wheel (using an 18" center) WITHOUT using a step lip...



This is not necessarily a bad thing, just making a point here. Not every wheel diameter has a dedicated forged center section.

Every wheel manufacturer uses a "trick" or two in order to mass-produce modular (2 or 3 piece) wheels. They are somewhat forced to do this, so they can offer all the different designs in their catalog to the largest number of customers. Forged centers are usually good for a 2" diameter spread. (max)

Anything more than that...and the smaller center makes the whole wheel look TINY.

It's prohibitively expensive for wheel manufactures to build a dedicated wheel center for every single size diameter they offer. (17", 18", 19", 20", etc.) As you can imagine, this would cost a small fortune. And only the very wealthy among us, would be able to buy these products. This is a standard industry practice to reduce forged wheel manufacturing costs.

Again, just clarifying a point. None of this has any bearing on the overall quality of the wheel, if sound Engineering principles and high-grade materials were used in it's construction.

The lipped wheel or 'step' lipped wheel usually has a center section that is basically FLAT (little or no concavity), and the overall weight of the wheel is reduced due to the shorter, flatter recessed spokes.

Flat recessed wheel spokes = shorter distance = less material = less weight. (generally speaking)

These are small but important details, that are often overlooked by the average wheel buyer...and even some retailers.

There is nothing earth shattering about all this...it's just rarely noticed by the general public.

The entire wheel weight debate is a bit overdone on internet message boards to be perfectly honest. The weight of any particular wheel is certainly not the most important detail, but I do understand why consumers harp on it to a certain degree.

The truth is...it's very hard to compare two wheels from different manufacturers that do not share the same size, width, offset, raw material grade, material construction techniques, and overall design. Many times you end up with flawed data comparisons that aren't based in reality.

It's unfortunate that so many aftermarket wheel enthusiasts focus on wheel weights, like it going to kill them to buy a wheel that weighs .75 pounds more than a competing product. That's going overboard in my opinion...unless you are building a dedicated track car where every ounce of weight counts.

Yes, weight is an important part of wheel purchasing decision, but some individuals place wayyyyy too much importance on this one aspect of wheel manufacturing. The lightest wheel on the market, is not, and cannot, be the strongest wheel on the market. You can't have it both ways...

A little more MASS isn't necessarily a bad thing sometimes. (in moderation of course!) It also buys you a little more security in the long run. (my opinion)

I would just like to see a more 'common sense' approach to this subject in the future. It's important to keep things in there proper perspective guys. That's all I'm trying to say...

Cheers.

Cleveland wrote

Greg,

I can explain this phenomenon .........I would just like to see a more 'common sense' approach to this subject in the future. It's important to keep things in there proper perspective guys. That's all I'm trying to say...

Cheers.

Wow-thanks for a very involved explanation of the variables involved. Great first post! I find no disagreement with the premises you put forth. Everything is a tradeoff. I take you to mean that strength and low weight are intertwined, and you give up one of them for the other. I have long argued this.

Do you see anything in RAC's approach you care to comment on?

Thanks, Cleveland.

Excellent post.

Good to see Cleveland here!

thanks for sharing great thread...keep updating with new wheels you guys get in plz

any actual customer pix of the AVS F7's installed? (i've seen the Yoko AW car with them)

IRMthree wrote

thanks for sharing great thread...keep updating with new wheels you guys get in plz

+1

Great thread OP! Please keep the updates coming, and I appreciate you editing the first post of the thread with the weight info and pics.

Unless you know Moment Of Inertia of the wheel the weight doesn't mean much when it comes to a few pounds of difference between the wheels. Another thing nobody talks about is wheel rigidity. Here is a link to an article that talks about it http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=637709&view=findpost&p=14480352

any info on HRE P40?

What a great post cleveland
We will keep this thread updated whenever we get different wheels in here.
Thank you for all your support!

IRMthree wrote

thanks for sharing great thread...keep updating with new wheels you guys get in plz

any actual customer pix of the AVS F7's installed? (i've seen the Yoko AW car with them)

Thanks.
We sold the wheels but haven't had any pictures yet...
I will post some photos as soon as I get them.

rldzhao wrote

any info on HRE P40?

We had the wheels but haven't had chance to weight them... Next time we will do it for sure!

lucid wrote

+1

Great thread OP! Please keep the updates coming, and I appreciate you editing the first post of the thread with the weight info and pics.

Thank you. I will update this thread as much as I can.

18 inch Work Emotion Kai


Front : 18x9.5J +12

PM price

Cleveland posting again

Johan@WheelSTO wrote

18 inch Work Emotion Kai


Front : 18x9.5J +12

Wow ... Chunky little guy!!

19 inch BBS LM-R in Diamond Black

FTMFW!!!!11111

Johan@WheelSTO wrote

18 inch Work Emotion Kai


Front : 18x9.5J +12

i don't know if there's a difference but i had these fat boys on my Evo... Work Emotion CR-Kai


thanks for all the great info WheelSTO!

19 inch 360 Forged CF5

They weight the same


Front : 19x8.5J


Rear : 19x9.5J

Johan@WheelSTO wrote

19 inch 360 Forged CF5

They weight the same


Front : 19x8.5J


Rear : 19x9.5J

Do these have titanium fasteners, or SS?

-Andy

Mods make this thread a sticky.

Sick and tired having to sort through all threads to find it.

Soo much great and useful info here....

Agree, very weird how the 8.5 and 9.5 cf5's have the same weight

askiles wrote

Do these have titanium fasteners, or SS?

-Andy

They are SS

JetBlack5OC wrote

Mods make this thread a sticky.

Sick and tired having to sort through all threads to find it.

we think so too!

gthirtyfizle wrote

Soo much great and useful info here....

Agree, very weird how the 8.5 and 9.5 cf5's have the same weight

We were kind of surprised ourselves.