[mlifxs]

UPDATED as of 3/23/16, see post #44

I get a very light vibration at 80+ mph. I can't see the wheel vibrating, but I can feel a light pulse that I don't feel at speeds below that.

Tires/Wheels have been road-forced balanced, weights are below 20 on every corner. I have m3 control arms and I've re-torqued them and they look okay. Wondering what else it could be, or am I being too much of a perfectionist.

My car has a lot of miles, so I only vaguely recall how it behaved brand new. What do you guys think?

[chatch10]

I have the same thing going on with my car ever since I installed new control arms and suspension. I thought it was an install issue, but maybe not. My wheels have also been balanced. Could it be tie rods?

[Spitfire007]

No it should not. These cars are designed to do sustained high speed driving on smooth roads.
Check suspension and steering bits and pieces.

These cars are very sensitive to suspension and steering issues, which are also made worse with low profile tires and big wheels.

[mlifxs]

Well, crap, guess I'll need a second opinion on the suspension / tie rods. They look good to me.

Might remove my rotors and steel brush the hubs (?)

Can engine mounts cause this? They might be due given my mileage ( 144k )

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

Well, crap, guess I'll need a second opinion on the suspension / tie rods. They look good to me.

Might remove my rotors and steel brush the hubs (?)

Can engine mounts cause this? They might be due given my mileage ( 144k )

Well, post your alignment settings obtained after the suspension work. Let's have a look!

[justpete]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

I get a very light vibration at 80+ mph. I can't see the wheel vibrating, but I can feel a light pulse that I don't feel at speeds below that.

Tires/Wheels have been road-forced balanced, weights are below 20 on every corner. I have m3 control arms and I've re-torqued them and they look okay. Wondering what else it could be, or am I being too much of a perfectionist.

My car has a lot of miles, so I only vaguely recall how it behaved brand new. What do you guys think?

Dumb question but if you had both control arms swapped in did you have the bump steer taken out? Changing camber will require adjusting the tie rod ends out a bit so they swing on the same arc otherwise slight road imperfections will cause the steering to judder back and forth.

BTW, can't be engine mounts as you feel that as a function of revs while sitting still.

[MLand]

Wheels could be bent.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by justpete

Dumb question but if you had both control arms swapped in did you have the bump steer taken out? Changing camber will require adjusting the tie rod ends out a bit so they swing on the same arc otherwise slight road imperfections will cause the steering to judder back and forth.

BTW, can't be engine mounts as you feel that as a function of revs while sitting still.

I'm too dumb to know if that's a dumb question .

Yep I did the m3 arms and the car's been aligned a few times since, including diy alignment by me with toe plates. Initially, the m3 arms cause massive toe in and I did a diy adjustment back using the tie rods, then headed for the alignment shop. I've had two professional alignments since (I added camber plates after that, then removed and sold them). So, not sure exactly what I would do with your suggestion? When you say "adjust out", are we talking about the toe adjustment or something else? (thanks)

One thing I notice as I try to adjust and center my front sway: the steering rack passenger side boot sits a little closer to the bar when I center the bar (using distance of the sway link studs to the subframe). No idea if this means anything, just mentioning.

Thanks for ruling out the mounts.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Nathapong

Wheels could be bent.

yep you're right I hope not.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

I'm too dumb to know if that's a dumb question .

Yep I did the m3 arms and the car's been aligned a few times since, including diy alignment by me with toe plates. Initially, the m3 arms cause massive toe in and I did a diy adjustment back using the tie rods, then headed for the alignment shop. I've had two professional alignments since (I added camber plates after that, then removed and sold them). So, not sure exactly what I would do with your suggestion? When you say "adjust out", are we talking about the toe adjustment or something else? (thanks)

One thing I notice as I try to adjust and center my front sway: the steering rack passenger side boot sits a little closer to the bar when I center the bar (using distance of the sway link studs to the subframe). No idea if this means anything, just mentioning.

Thanks for ruling out the mounts.

Forgot to ask if the alignment was to M3 spec. Toe could be wrong as it should be zero.

[mlifxs]

Yes, IIRC "set to M3 spec" means a tiny amt of toe in up front. Think on my last pro alignment, they set to +.10 total, with driver in the car. I've set it to as close to zero as possible, using toe plates and weights for the driver. Didn't see any change in steering vibration either way.

[Oo vvR3cKz oO 619]

Just my 0.02
I was running aftermarket wheels also had a small vibration I ended up buying some centric hub rings made all the difference for me

Here's an example

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...Centric_Rings/

This is not a one size fits all there is different sizes for different wheels so if your wheels measure let's say 74.mm and you wheel hub 72.mm these rings fill in the gap & eliminate vibration .. Good luck hope you get this sorted out .

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Oo vvR3cKz oO 619

Just my 0.02
I was running aftermarket wheels also had a small vibration I ended up buying some centric hub rings made all the difference for me

Here's an example

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...Centric_Rings/

This is not a one size fits all there is different sizes for different wheels so if your wheels measure let's say 74.mm and you wheel hub 72.mm these rings fill in the gap & eliminate vibration .. Good luck hope you get this sorted out .

Thanks for the idea.

I'm running aftermarket Apex EC-7, which are hubcentric and 72.6mm (matches hub, no need for rings) so I should okay on that front.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

I get a very light vibration at 80+ mph. I can't see the wheel vibrating, but I can feel a light pulse that I don't feel at speeds below that.

Tires/Wheels have been road-forced balanced, weights are below 20 on every corner. I have m3 control arms and I've re-torqued them and they look okay. Wondering what else it could be, or am I being too much of a perfectionist.

My car has a lot of miles, so I only vaguely recall how it behaved brand new. What do you guys think?

wheel weights are 20 > what measurement?
are the wheels properly torqued?
could me bad hub or bad bearing.
could be your brakes as well.
when it starts vibrating press the brakes while you are still on the gas pedal
if the vibrations increase the chances are you brakes are out of round

[David1]

Wheel balancers are only as good as the calibration of the balancer. If the balancer has not been calibrated and it's off a few ounces, you will feel it.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by feuer

wheel weights are 20 > what measurement?
are the wheels properly torqued?
could me bad hub or bad bearing.
could be your brakes as well.
when it starts vibrating press the brakes while you are still on the gas pedal
if the vibrations increase the chances are you brakes are out of round

what measurement? I don't remember the units I just know that they consider "over 25" to be "out of balance" and I remember they said they were able to bring everything below 20, with one wheel as low as 7 and one as low as 12.

the hub / brakes thing is my motivation to remove rotors and make sure all the rust is cleaned on the hub. I'll try your brake test. Thanks.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by David1

Wheel balancers are only as good as the calibration of the balancer. If the balancer has not been calibrated and it's off a few ounces, you will feel it.

or how good the person operating the wheel balancer is

Originally Posted by feuer

or who good the person operating the wheel balancer is

Agreed.

Originally Posted by mlifxs

what measurement? I don't remember the units I just know that they consider "over 25" to be "out of balance" and I remember they said they were able to bring everything below 20, with one wheel as low as 7 and one as low as 12.

Those are "lbs of road force." The only time my wheel/tire assemblies feel vibration free is when each one comes in at 9 lbs or below.

Either way, in your case put the 7 and the 12 (the assemblies with least amount of road force) up front. If vibration goes away, you've found your answer.

[ChipXpert]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

I get a very light vibration at 80+ mph. I can't see the wheel vibrating, but I can feel a light pulse that I don't feel at speeds below that.

Tires/Wheels have been road-forced balanced, weights are below 20 on every corner. I have m3 control arms and I've re-torqued them and they look okay. Wondering what else it could be, or am I being too much of a perfectionist.

My car has a lot of miles, so I only vaguely recall how it behaved brand new. What do you guys think?

No should not vibrate.
My '08 with 120K miles does not.
I have new bits up front (control arms, etc) dome 30K miles ago.
I have new wheels (Apex) and tires.

I get no vibration all the way up to 100MPH.
I don't know after that.

[pinoye90]

I had this and problem.. Replaced my whole suspension. Shocks, springs, front control arm bushing, Bmw alignment 3 times, road forced wheels and tires. Finally after buying new wheels swopped same tires onto new wheels gone... Damn wheels where bent from day one of purchase and not hub centric... Cost about 3k to figure out FML

[andrew_hoffi]

I hope you guys don't mind but I'm going to jump on the thread with the same problem, I've had balancing and alignment done on my 2009 318D, but I'm still getting shake at 60mph+

I'm no mechanic so it would be good to know what process order would be good to work through in order to attempt to get things smooth again?

[steel609]

Same problem with my 2010 328xi.

Does anyone else vibration get worse when you let off the gas?

I've noticed that sometimes the vibration becomes more noticeable when I let off the gas, but then will usually become less noticeable when I start accelerating again.