[Biginboca]

I did some googling and couldn’t find a tutorial for replacing the steering rack. I have a M3 rack coming that I’m swapping into my 328. I’ve already read about the details of mating the M3 rack to the 328i steering shaft... but what about the general removal and installing the new rack...

Are there any “one time use” fittings or crush washers that need to be replaced?

Is there a procedure for bleeding the steering pump/reservoir/rack?

Do you need to drop the subframe to do the steering rack swap?

Are there any other details that might make this tricky?

Thanks!

[Biginboca]

So I’ve doing some more reading and watching YouTube videos (in Spanish lol)...

And I’m feeling good about steering rack swap actually looks very easy. Unbolt tie rods from gearbox, there’s 2 bolts hold rack to subframe, and then one pinch bolt for the steering shaft. Box is now detached, correct?

Then 2 fluid lines attached to the gearbox which I will replace the 4 crush washers on.

Steering Rack Pressure Line Crush Washers P/N:
07119906464 - Need 2!

Steering Rack Return Line Crush Washers P/N:
07119906463 - Need 2!

After reversing everything for install bleed by filling reservoir and rocking steering with engine running, same as any other steering bleed.

So this looks like maybe a 1 hour job tops.

That sound right?

Does anyone have the torque specs for the lines to the gearbox and the mounting bolts?

[feuer]

Not even well seasoned tech can do it in 1h let alone someone that had to come on here to ask how to go about it. Regarding torque specs: unit to subframe torque to 56Nm, small banjo torque to 35Nm, large banjo torque to 40Nm. You don't bleed the system (perhaps people use that term?), just top off the tank, start engine, wait for power steering fluid to get to room temperature, like 20'c, then turn steering wheel to full left and right lock few times, straighten the wheels and check for leaks and fluid level.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by feuer

Not even well seasoned tech can do it in 1h let alone someone that had to come on here to ask how to go about it. Regarding torque specs: unit to subframe torque to 56Nm, small banjo torque to 35Nm, large banjo torque to 40Nm. You don't bleed the system (perhaps people use that term?), just top off the tank, start engine, wait for power steering fluid to get to room temperature, like 20'c, then turn steering wheel to full left and right lock few times, straighten the wheels and check for leaks and fluid level.

Thank you sir, you da man!

[tyackerman]

I have to replace my steering rack in an 09' 328i xDrive with a 6mt. Can somebody walk me through the steps. At the least can you tell me how to remove it.

In desperate need of help here. Anything is better than nothing when it comes to advice.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by tyackerman

I have to replace my steering rack in an 09' 328i xDrive with a 6mt. Can somebody walk me through the steps. At the least can you tell me how to remove it.

In desperate need of help here. Anything is better than nothing when it comes to advice.

I did my rack swap and what is written in this post is all you need to know. The 2 Torx bolts that hold the rack to the subframe are single use bolts and Realoem.com will help you get the part numbers for those.

Anchor your steering wheel inside the car so it stays pointing straight ahead. I used cargo tie downs from the steering wheel to the passenger door pull. Wrap a rag around the wheel under the tie down cause the tie down will mar the leather on the wheel if you don’t. Same for the door pull.

I measured the length of shafts showing out of the rack on each side to get it equal before install. This way with the steering wheel centered and the shaft length on the rack equal when you bolt them up obviously you will have no issues. Still will need an alignment after though!

You can use large hose clamps or strong zip ties to hold the large plastic accordion boots to the rack when you are done. (These boots cover the tie rod ends where they attach to the rack. Under these boots the tie rod ends are large (maybe 32mm not sure about that at all) hex that I used a giant crescent wrench to unscrew from the rack. So make sure you have something handy for that, other wise it’s straighforward no special tools or anything.

[JeanCa]

Daaamn, m3 rack! your white e92 just keeps getting better. Congrats

[tyackerman]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I did my rack swap and what is written in this post is all you need to know. The 2 Torx bolts that hold the rack to the subframe are single use bolts and Realoem.com will help you get the part numbers for those.

Anchor your steering wheel inside the car so it stays pointing straight ahead. I used cargo tie downs from the steering wheel to the passenger door pull. Wrap a rag around the wheel under the tie down cause the tie down will mar the leather on the wheel if you don't. Same for the door pull.

I measured the length of shafts showing out of the rack on each side to get it equal before install. This way with the steering wheel centered and the shaft length on the rack equal when you bolt them up obviously you will have no issues. Still will need an alignment after though!

You can use large hose clamps or strong zip ties to hold the large plastic accordion boots to the rack when you are done. (These boots cover the tie rod ends where they attach to the rack. Under these boots the tie rod ends are large (maybe 32mm not sure about that at all) hex that I used a giant crescent wrench to unscrew from the rack. So make sure you have something handy for that, other wise it's straighforward no special tools or anything.

I'm just worried about xDrive components getting in the way of removing and installing the rack

[insanesam]

Have a steering rack leak coming from the hard lines - not the banjo bolt / crush washers. Is this serviceable or do I need a new rack?

[JingChai]

This is the video from FCP Euro that should help you guys out:

[armanos]

Depending on what you are replacing and the available equipment, it could indeed be a couple of hours job. If you are solely replacing the steering rack as I did recently, all you need to do is get under the car, remove pan, undo boots, unscrew tie rods from rack (no need to remove wheels, tie rod ends or anything), move the steering wheel up and out then center it, then remove key; undo the pinch bolt for the lower shaft and pull it off. Undo banjo bolts, drain fluid, and finally undo the two bolts and nuts that hold the rack to the subframe. Install in reverse order. Don't forget to center the new rack before sliding on the steering shaft - it comes on in only one position. BTW no alignment is really necessary because you did not mess with the tie rods.
However, there are some nuances, as always. The steering shaft does not come off easily - you will need some persuasion. I found a pry bar works best, if you don't mind to mess up the old rack, specifically, the plastic guide. But it will come back on the new rack very easily, just clean and lubricate the splines. The two bolts that held the rack were a nightmare, I spent half a day just to undo these two bolts; that is, they both sheared off immediately, and I beat them, drilled them etc. The were rusted in the aluminum rack by some kind of oxide. Absolutely have new bolts and nuts ready before you do anything. The best way to undo them was to spray with penetrating oil the exposed threads in the rack from behind and turn the upper retaining nuts - that way they were slowly pulled out. But a lot of strength was needed.
Changing the rack did not solve my problem - hissing noise from steering wheel when turning it left or right. Maybe the banjo bolt check valve is the problem, or high pressure pipes? Has anyone had this problem?