[Beasters]

Hey guys,

I have a 2008 335xi 6 speed manual that recently starting having the ABS/AWD yellow warning lights on the dash start popping up within 30 seconds of starting to drive the car.

I hooked up my launch code reader and here are the three following codes that I got 5E50, 55C3 and 55C6. If I clear the codes, they come back right away.

I have replaced the passenger side wheel speed sensor Because two of these codes mention the passenger wheel speed or wheel gap. Unfortunately, replacing the wheel speed sensor with an aftermarket sensor did not fix the problem.

I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction so I don’t just throw parts or Waste more time trying to figure this problem out. If the car Didn’t show the yellow errors I would never know there was an issue with the car.

Also, it seems like the all-wheel-drive is still working when I go full throttle and it’s raining outside lol. Car doesn’t break the tires loose at all. The car is on MHD stage 2+.

I will mention that when I first start driving the car before the lights pop up on the dash that I can feel, in the brake pedal, when I press on the break for the first time after starting the car, I start driving the car, It feels like the ABS is activating in the pedal.. like it would if you were hydroplaning in the rain when you press on the brakes when’s it’s wet outside. Shortly after that happens, the – yellow lights pop up. After the yellow ABS/all-wheel-drive light pops up on the dash I no longer ever feel the ABS weird sensation in the pedal. The brake pedal feels completely normal once the lights show up on the dash from that point forward. It only happens before these yellow lights on the dash show up on the dash.. weird.

I hope someone can help me diagnose this problem. I really appreciate you guys and any ideas you guys might have, thank you.

[Beasters]

Here is a screenshot of the report showing the errors that my launch code reader gives me.

[morleidre]

Similar issue with my 2007 328 xi, 240,000 km including Canadian salt-brine winters. Based on my research, the most likely problem is rusting of the reluctor ring on the front CV joint. Rust expands the reluctor ring pushing it into contact with the speed sensor.

In my case, the CV shaft and joints are in good condition and I would like to replace the ring and not the entire shaft. There are numerous reports of problems with non-OEM shafts, so throwing a new CV shaft in is an expensive solution. The problem is sourcing the reluctor ring and the challenges of removing the CV shaft to install the new ring.

There are a number of Youtube videos which detail the (extensive) process. The first hurdle is likely to be pushing the CV joint out of the hub after many years of salt have rusted the male CV splines to the female splines of the hub. It looks like other components of the suspension need to be loosened/removed which may open up a can of worms.

Fritz (Murphy's German cousin) will likely suggest replacing the hub, front wheel bearing, and shaft seals, while doing this. There are a number of specialty tools/processes that would not only make the job easier, but may be essential to getting seized components apart. I am guessing 3 hours of professional time per wheel, so the tool cost would likely be justified. Some of the tools may be available to rent from Parts Supply Houses, but others will likely need to be purchased.

I hope someone else responds to this post with their recommendations of a reluctor ring supplier, and some guidance on the process. If not, I will post separately.