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Il entendait un son inhabituel. Immédiatement vérifié en dessous pour trouver le boulon de diff par la suspension d'échappement cisaillé.

Le goujon qui sort est coincé. Comment puis-je l'enlever? Toute aide est appréciée.

Il ne semble pas cisaillé... On dirait que le boulon et la suspension sont tombés.

Ils sont difficiles à enlever. Je prendrais un boulon d'oem chez un revendeur et je le collerais. Je crois que c'est un 18mm, mais vérifiez bien. ramasser une clé à cliquet d'ouverture / fermeture pour le rendre facile. une prise ne conviendra pas.
n'achetez pas l'écrou du tuning ECS, ils m'ont envoyé un écrou légèrement différent et il a dépouillé mon boulon.

Oh merde, oui, c'est cassé. On dirait que la noix est tombée... l'autre moitié du boulon est cisaillée.

Bienvenue dans le club...Avez-vous commandé des bagues de sous-cadre / diff améliorées pour accompagner votre nouvel ensemble de boulons diff?

1. Peux-tu enfiler un écrou ? Si oui, enfilez le 2 et mettez ensuite une clé sur l’écrou « intérieur » et desserrez-le. Il se retournera contre l'écrou extérieur et le transformera essentiellement en un boulon.

2. Si vous pouvez souder un écrou là-bas, vous devriez pouvoir le retirer comme un boulon. Bien que cela prenne beaucoup de temps, un magasin devrait pouvoir le faire très facilement. Offrez 20 $ pour souder sur un écrou le lecteur à la maison et l'enlever.

3. Certains PB Blaster et vice poignées peuvent être en mesure de saisir les fils et enlever, la chaleur aide à desserrer les fils tenaces trop.

si vous venez de mettre un écrou sur elle avec une rondelle je me demande si le boulon va se tirer comme vous serrez il...

Double nut the bolt sticking out and spin it out with a wrench using the inner nut. Make sure the nuts are tight against each other. Wd-40 blue torch is a plus too.

roastbeef wrote

it doesn't look sheared.... it just looks like the bolt and hanger fell off.

they are hard to remove. i'd get an oem bolt from a dealer and stick it on. i believe it is an 18mm, but double check that. pickup a ratcheting open/close end wrench to make it easy. a socket won't fit.
don't buy the nut from ECS tuning, they sent me a slightly different nut and it stripped my bolt.

18 mm is probably the wrench size, not the thread size. Metric threads have a few thread pitch sizes.

KingFishy wrote

Double nut the bolt sticking out and spin it out with a wrench using the inner nut. Make sure the nuts are tight against each other. Wd-40 blue torch is a plus too.

thanks. I was thinking the same thing.

Anyone know the torque specs on these bolts?

ksteckba wrote

Welcome to the club...Have you ordered upgraded subframe/diff bushings to go with your new diff bolt set?

No but I've been thinking about it. Any suggestions?

Bimmer Barney wrote

1. Can you thread a nut on? If so thread 2 on and then put a wrench on the “inside” nut and loosen. It will back up against the outside nut and essentially turn that into a bolt.

2. If you can tack weld a nut on there you should be able to remove it like a bolt. Although time consuming, a shop should be able to do it very easily. Offer $20 to weld on a nut the drive home and remove it.

3. Some PB Blaster and vice grips may be able to grab the threads and remove, heat helps loosen stubborn threads too.

+1

An Easy Out kit may work too if you can get a drill in there. Definently soak in WD-40 atleast a few hours before trying to pull it.

roastbeef wrote

if you just put a nut on it with a washer i wonder if the bolt will pull its self out as you tighten it...

This would pull the threads right out of the hole, if the stud didnt break first... Probably not the best method.

Double nut, as others said. Or if you can get your dremel in that area with a reinforced cut off wheel. Create a groove for a flat head screwdriver, then remove with said screwdriver.

R3dliner wrote

No but I've been thinking about it. Any suggestions?

Aluminum subframe bushings (Turner, MRF, etc.) have no negatives excluding the wallet hit, and I did powerflex purple diff bushings which add some diff whine/whir and driveline sound but it was worth it for the improved feel and lowered risk of future failures. Some use new oem diff bushings but it seems they are just too soft (particularly the rear bushing); and some do alum/delrin diff bushings but I don't think I could handle more added noise over the powerflex bushings and the performance is supposedly very similar.

I imagine if there were one or two more mounting points on the diff then the rubber used for the oem side bushings of the diff would be adequate for diff control with the lowest driveline noise transmission. But unfortunately we only have the three points and very poor subframe and diff control from the factory.

R3dliner wrote

so tried scouring for a M12x1 nut and no luck. WTF why's it such a hard size to obtain. Home depot and lowes only carries M12x1.25 and autozone forget about it. Guess i have to order it online. Didn't want to try the vice grip yet.

I had the same issue. I was up in Canada when it happened and couldn't find anything to make a temporary fix. Just had to limp around til the ordered parts arrived back home.

Pep boys usually has 12x1 hardware. I needed them for a Honda project once. Only local place that had them.

R3dliner wrote

so tried scouring for a M12x1 nut and no luck. WTF why's it such a hard size to obtain. Home depot and lowes only carries M12x1.25 and autozone forget about it. Guess i have to order it online. Didn't want to try the vice grip yet.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=19rwmh0

R3dliner wrote

The other end sheared off and this part is stuck on there. Does the other end just bolt up or is it one piece with this stud sticking out? If that makes any sense

I just dealt with this exact issue last weekend. As long as the remaining part of the bolt is not bent, a regular pair of pliers is all you should need to turn it out. I had vice grips ready, but didn't need them. Turn it clockwise and it will work it's way out with minimal to no damage to the threads.

Getting the new bolt to line up is a bit of a bitch, and is going to require you to loosen the other two bolts. In fact I had to remove the top bolt (21mm) in order to line up the new bolt. I went further though and changed all three just for more peace of mind.

Having an extra set of hands along with an extra floor jack will also help because as soon as you remove the top bolt the diff will sag, and it is rather heavy.

All three OEM bolts only set me back $53.

R3dliner wrote

so tried scouring for a M12x1 nut and no luck. WTF why's it such a hard size to obtain. Home depot and lowes only carries M12x1.25 and autozone forget about it. Guess i have to order it online. Didn't want to try the vice grip yet.

Go to a local nut and bolt store like Fastenal or Grainger, they will have thousands

HerbNRacer wrote

This would pull the threads right out of the hole, if the stud didnt break first... Probably not the best method.

It's not a stud. It's just the end of the broken off bolt -- not sure of thread size and pitch but the subframe bolts are m12x1.5 and diff bolts could vary. These bolts goes through the subframe and front diff mounts and the exhaust hangers hang off the protruding part. You could use pb blaster or kroil and single of double nut it and try to pull it all the way through since the head and shoulder broke off the other end. You could also use heat on the threaded body (not the nut) and then use vise grips but be careful with heat since the gas tank is not far away.

GP0256 wrote

Go to a local nut and bolt store like Fastenal or Grainger, they will have thousands

Actually I'm seeing Fastenal has the bolt on their site. Unfortunately ships out of Indianapolis. Grainger didn't have the tread size.