Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Spacers

M. /// M3 RD a écrit  

Kong Sheng Han a écrit

Bonjour à tous. J'ai besoin de quelqu'un pour confirmer / corriger mes calculs. J'essaie de faire en sorte que mon stock 18 ait la même position qu'une roue OEM E9X 18" sans entretoises sur un E46. Voici les spécifications pour les deux roues:

E46: 8 x 18 avant ET 47
9 x 18 Arrière ET 26
E9X 8.5 x 18 Avant ET 29
9,5 x 18 Arrière ET 23

Si j'ai bien fait, la correction est de 23F/9R. Alors, un espaceur 20F / 10R donnerait-il à mes 18 le même aspect que si les E9X 18 étaient allumés?

Je vous remercie

Votre voiture est belle comme elle est... Ne change rien Je me souviens de mon e46...

Je pense qu'il y a peut-être eu un malentendu... J'ai la M3 argentée comme on le voit sur ma photo de profil, et j'essaie d'obtenir l'apparence de la M3 noire.

chich a écrit

récemment mis 10mm macht schnell entretoises sur mes roues avant qui sont 20x9 ET 28. avant l'installation, j'ai nettoyé la bague du moyeu avec une roue de fil pour m'assurer que les entretoises seraient bien installées. J’ai ensuite remis les roues en marche et je suis allé faire un essai routier et j’ai remarqué que mon volant tremblait un peu maintenant. Est-ce que quelqu'un sait ce qui pourrait être à l'origine de cela? Tout a été installé correctement. La seule chose que je peux penser à faire est de rééquilibrer mes roues.

J'ai également les mêmes problèmes avec mes espaceurs MS de 10 mm. Je viens de les faire installer par EAS il y a 2 jours et quand je conduis environ 80 mph, j'ai une vibration de direction.

chich wrote

recently put 10mm macht schnell spacers on my front wheels which are 20x9 ET 28. before installing I cleaned the hub ring with a wire wheel to ensure the spacers would sit flush. I then put the wheels back on and went for a test drive and noticed that my steering wheel shakes a little now. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Everything was installed correctly. The only thing I can think to do is get my wheels rebalanced

M3RDERD wrote

I'm also having the same issues with my 10 mm MS spacers. I just got them put in by eas 2 days ago and when I drive around 80mph I get a steering vibration..

Edward wrote

I feel like neither of you bothered to read the original post which has more info on spacers than the entire forum has ever posted up in aggregate.

10 mm spacers with a hubcentric lip will make your car drive like the tires are shot and your rim is bent also. The spacer itself is not thick enough for the stock hub to fit into it if it also has a hubcentric ring of its own.

I wanted to post because I had an interesting problem with MS spacers. Ran 12mm x 4 on my 225M rims on a 335is coupe with no problem. Never once a vibration even after several unmounting and remountings.

Bought another set when I got a 2013 ZCP coupe M3.

Major issues on the front. Perhaps on the rear also, but it's much more difficult to feel rear wheel vibration because you can't feel it so obviously through the steering wheel as you can when there's an issue with the fronts.

Anyhow, had a lot of vibrations. What was weird is that over the course of 2 hours of straight constant 70 mph driving, the front wheels would phase in and out of being totally smooth and atrociously wobbly.

Took it to my buddy's friends shop. We all agreed that the 12 mm Macht Schnell hubcentric spacer fit flush against the brake rotor hat. No issues there. But it would not fit flush against the inside of the stock ZCP from rim. So we concluded that even though a 12 mm should fit, something was off with the cutaway bevel inside the rim and the protruding bevel on the spacer did not mesh up well. Also, did not measure this but the same non-flush effect could also be created from a hub ring that is too long on the spacer. In any case, the wheel did not fit onto the spacer properly.

After this, I just said screw spacers. I'm done. Nothing worse than making your brand new M3 feel like it has bent ass wheels.

I'd only stick with 12.5mm -18mm spacers. Nothing outside that spec unless you do it right and do a stud conversion kit. That way you can slap any configuration on and screw on the same nuts to lock it down. The M3 GTS uses spacers as factory equipment even after using wider tires at 255 and 285. However, that car has different upgraded 6/4 pot calipers and rotors and also utilizes a stud conversion kit.

Edward wrote

I'd only stick with 12.5mm -18mm spacers. Nothing outside that spec unless you do it right and do a stud conversion kit. That way you can slap any configuration on and screw on the same nuts to lock it down. The M3 GTS uses spacers as factory equipment even after using wider tires at 255 and 285. However, that car has different upgraded 6/4 pot calipers and rotors and also utilizes a stud conversion kit.

aajami wrote

The GTS (and presumably CRT) has a 5mm spacer on the front to clear the upgraded suspension. Not sure how they got a 5mm spacer to fit. I have the exact same pair, but haven't tried installing them given the fitment issues.

Edward wrote

In the post you're quoting I mentioned that the GTS uses wheels studs instead of longer lug bolts. You could sandwich whatever type of spacer you want between your wheel and your hub if you have studs. BMW probably saw it as a much safer and idiot proof way to put spacers on a GTS using nuts and studs than extended lugbolts and spacers.

If you have 5mm spacers with no hub, I think you can get them to fit properly. Your existing hub would slide through the spacer and you'd end up with something like 5-6mm of hub to work with instead of the original 10-11. Only real life experience or an engineer would be able to tell you exactly how much stress you've transferred from your hub to your lug bolts by giving your wheels less hub lip to rest on. Could be nominal.

CON G wrote

I have an E90 M3 with stock ZCP rim, tyres and suspension.

I bought turner 12.5, 15 and 17.5mm spacers to give the ability to test two combos and work out what suited my tastes best.

I tried 17.5 at the front and 15 at the back and to be honest it looked crap, too much of the tyre was exposed over the top of the wheel arch.

Chucked 15 at the front and 12.5 at the rear and it looks perfect, except for the fact I now want to lower the car!

rzm3 wrote

The 10mm Spacer Dilemma
10mm wheel spacers are one of the most common spacer sizes out there. However, what a lot of people don't realize is that a 10mm size is not a true fitment on any BMW. It's considered a "tuner" fitment, meaning some extra thought is usually required to correctly install them. Only with the right combination of parts will a 10mm spacer fit without a vibration or other fitment issues.

Factory Hub Lips Are Greater Than 10mm
The depth of the lip on the car where the spacer will rest will vary. The available lip space may be 11mm and a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip cannot physically fit. The spacer will bottom out on the lip instead of on the brake hat, leaving a gap between the spacer and the rotor hat. The biggest reason for this is the thickness of the rotor hat. The thickness varies by manufacturer and design. A thinner hat (such as used with aluminum Euro Floating rotors) will leave more lip protruding and make the problem worse. Most spacer manufacturers add an extra chamfer, or shoulder, to push the hubcentric lip further out. The extra chamfer clears any extra part of the stock lip. The other way to get the spacer to fit is to shave the stock lip with a metal file. While not the most elegant solution, it works.

Wheels With Incorrect Beveled Edge
Some wheels (Kosei in particular) have a beveled mounting surface that is at a different angle than on the spacer. Think of really precise puzzle pieces fitting together - if the pieces are not precisely machined to match, the parts don't fit together very well. The wheel will vibrate since enough of the wheel bore is not resting on the spacer lip.

Note that all of this only occurs when using a 10mm spacer with its own hubcentric lip. Any spacer over 10mm is not affected by this. The TMS 10mm spacers with Hub Extender is also exempt from this as the spacer has a flush outer face and will not interfere with the mounting surface of the wheel.

What's the solution? You could shave the stock lip on the car so its depth is under 10mm... Or you could just use a 12mm spacer and be done with it. The difference between a 10mm spacer and a 12mm spacer is the thickness of a nickel! The 2mm difference is smaller than the thickness of a CF memory card or your typical cardboard box. Trust us - 12mm is the way to go. The TMS Hub Extender/10mm Spacer set also works well and allows you to swap spacers in and out for different setups.

ArthurL wrote

I know that the original lug bolts on the car are 25mm so for a 18mm spacer, I'll need at least a 43mm shank. Would a 42mm shank bolt be okay? The person I bought my spacers from sent me a 45mm shank bolt and a 42mm shank bolt for a 18mm spacer..

CON G wrote

I have an E90 M3 with stock ZCP rim, tyres and suspension.

I bought turner 12.5, 15 and 17.5mm spacers to give the ability to test two combos and work out what suited my tastes best.

I tried 17.5 at the front and 15 at the back and to be honest it looked crap, too much of the tyre was exposed over the top of the wheel arch.

Chucked 15 at the front and 12.5 at the rear and it looks perfect, except for the fact I now want to lower the car!

kimiraikkonen wrote

CON G wrote

I have an E90 M3 with stock ZCP rim, tyres and suspension.

I bought turner 12.5, 15 and 17.5mm spacers to give the ability to test two combos and work out what suited my tastes best.

I tried 17.5 at the front and 15 at the back and to be honest it looked crap, too much of the tyre was exposed over the top of the wheel arch.

Chucked 15 at the front and 12.5 at the rear and it looks perfect, except for the fact I now want to lower the car!

Hi. Do you have any pics of your car with the 15/12.5mm setup? Thanks!