DIY: Front PDC RetroFit

Mise à jour: 01/09/2010

Le projet est fait, y compris le codage. a marche.

Je mettrai à jour ce fil de discussion au fur et à mesure que je me lance dans ce projet. J'ai accumulé toutes les pièces nécessaires. C'est juste une question d'exécution. Je vais prendre l'approche du pauvre homme en forant mon pare-chocs existant.

Ma liste de pièces requises. (Ceci est pour ma production 3/2011) D'autres années peuvent nécessiter un ECU PDC différent.

Description / Numéro de pièce [QTY]

1. PDC - Capteurs Gris Espace / 66 21 6 988 965 [4]
2. PDC - ECU pour l'avant et l'arrière / 66 20 9 252 638 [1]
3. PDC - Kit de mise à niveau avant / 66 20 0 418 637 [1]
4. Kit de commutation du panneau avant / 61 31 9 120 026 [1]
5. Optionnel - foret pas à pas de 18 mm (si vous percez votre pare-chocs existant)

Après l'installation, le système devra être codé

Résumé fonctionnel

Activation automatique

Le contrôle de distance du parc est activé automatiquement en engageant la marche arrière. Activation
se produit avec un retard d'environ 1 seconde. Ce délai empêche l'activation involontaire de
le contrôle de la distance du parc lors du passage en position R lors du changement d'entraînement
range.
Sur les véhicules équipés d'un affichage central des informations, il est possible de sélectionner si
la distance à l'obstacle doit être indiquée visuellement.

Désactivation automatique
Le contrôle de distance avant et arrière reste actif après le débrayage.
La désactivation automatique du contrôle de distance du parc est déclenchée dans les conditions suivantes :
Vitesse du véhicule supérieure à 12 mph / 20 kmh
Distance supérieure à 50 m

Activation manuelle
Le contrôle de la distance du parc peut être activé
ou éteint en appuyant sur le bouton PDC (2).
Illumination de l'indicateur de fonction (1) dans le
Le bouton PDC indique que la distance du parc
contrôle et donc la reconnaissance de distance
La fonction est active.
Activation manuelle de la fonction possible
seulement jusqu'à une vitesse de route d'environ
12 mph / 20 kmh.





La scène est fixée

Terminer la 1ère phase. (installation de pare-chocs)

1. Supprimer le pare-chocs
2. Marquez des trous, percez un trou pilote.
3. Utiliser un foret pas à pas pour un trou de 18mm
4. Fixer le faisceau de câbles
5. Fixer les supports du capteur
6. Installer le pare-chocs

Finished the 2nd Phase (Wiring & Coding) ......

1. Disconnect the battery
2. Route the wire harness through the firewall and ran it down the passenger side foot well and door sill all of to the rear of the car.
3. Replace the center console button cluster
4. Installed the new PDC Module (Use the pin mapping from the Schematic and not the instructions as two of the pins are labeled wrong)
5. Retrofit Coding of the car for option $508 (PDC Full)

Thanks to Tom @ EAS for providing some wire routing tips through the firewall.

It should noted that the wiring pin mapping in the attached instructions on page 27 is wrong.

• PIN 3 should map to the Brown\Black wire
• PIN 2 should map to the Brown\White wire

Random Photos taken during the install.

I tried looking up the part numbers on Tischer and realoem and am getting invalid part number returns...

stuka wrote

I tried looking up the part numbers on Tischer and realoem and am getting invalid part number returns...

All of the part numbers display on Realoem.

I had to purchase the PDC module and the Front Retrofit kit from a Euro supplier. You will only be able to get sensors and the front panel switch from the normal US channels.

good luck Terry...

chris s wrote

good luck Terry...

Thanks Chris!!! It's getting there

This is a great thread, keep the pics and DIY coming!

If you order a Euro bumper, can't you get one with the holes pre-cut for the sensors? Since you have to pull the car apart anyways, I'd be tempted to go ahead and upgrade to Euro bumper at the same time.

Very interested how this turns out. While doing my ED was asked if I wanted to do a front PDC retrofit, for a few thousand euros mind you. Then was backed into in Austria, only cosmetic damage mind you, and am seriously considering this now. Here's a link for euro style bumpers with or without holes, hopefully EAS still stocks them....

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=362002

Interesting. Looks like EAS can sell a fairly complete set up.

Any idea of a ballpark price for painted bumper & hardware required? I don't mind turned a few wrenches, even if it it looks like a full day job.

Nice job though!

Whoa, look very symmetrical. Did you do a lot of measuring or was it easy to plot the hole and drill it?

Keep up the good work!!

ducman wrote

Whoa, look very symmetrical. Did you do a lot of measuring or was it easy to plot the hole and drill it?

Keep up the good work!!

Hard to see but there are targets embossed on the in inside of the bumper which made it very easy to drill.

The project is done for now. I will clean up my the first couple of threads when I get a chance.

Everything works!!! No drama!!!

Update: 2011-10-02

The sensors did not sit flush enough to my liking. I ended up removing the sensor brackets and the double sided adhesive layer which is about 1mm thick. I reapplied the brackets with a thin coating of beta link underneath and a thick coat on the top outer edges. Now they sit hella flush and are practically invisible from an angle.

I'm doing the rear PDC retrofit. I've done everything from installing the sensors to routing the harness from the back to the front, and i'm stock at connecting the wires to the fuse holder and that area.

This is a great thread! I just took delivery of my M3 on Saturday and will be doing the retrofit. I'm debating Euro bumper or filling the reflector holes on my current bumper and drilling the necessary pilot holes.

Silly question, though... our cars look like they are optioned similarly. I have the rear sunshade, start/stop button, etc. I noticed that the front panel switch kit has several blanks with LED lights above the buttons. The left and right buttons are for seat heating. If you turn on the seat heaters using the climate controls, do the lower LEDs also light up?

I'm thinking about replacing my climate control panel with one without the seat heating buttons if they do light up.

wdimagineer wrote

Silly question, though... our cars look like they are optioned similarly. I have the rear sunshade, start/stop button, etc. I noticed that the front panel switch kit has several blanks with LED lights above the buttons. The left and right buttons are for seat heating. If you turn on the seat heaters using the climate controls, do the lower LEDs also light up?

I'm thinking about replacing my climate control panel with one without the seat heating buttons if they do light up.

Good question. I don't recall if the center heated seat led's lit up in stereo with HVAC lights but they do now. The center console button is universal. You snap in stops & blanks for unused features like I did. I'm going fix the issue but I haven't decided how I want to address it yet. I'm more inclined to try to disable the led's on the bar vs. getting the hvac control without heater switches. I think it's more logical to have all of heat controls around the hvac. This is the universal button bar that I preconfigured for my options.

tlp wrote

Good question. I don't recall if the center heated seat led's lit up in stereo with HVAC lights but they do now. The center console button is universal. You snap in stops & blanks for unused features like I did. I'm going fix the issue but I haven't decided how I want to address it yet. I'm more inclined to try to disable the led's on the bar vs. getting the hvac control without heater switches. I think it's more logical to have all of heat controls around the hvac. This is the universal button bar that I preconfigured for my options.

I'm sure there is a way by physically modifying the bar. Once I get my kit in I will take a look.

I'm happy though that this retrofit exists. I've had it in my previous vehicles and have grown accustomed to parking with it.

wdimagineer wrote

I'm sure there is a way by physically modifying the bar. Once I get my kit in I will take a look.

The bar can easily be taken apart from the back (t-8 screws), I just haven got around to it yet.

This looks like a pain in all the wrong places

My parts should be here in the next few days. I'm going to retrofit the ejectbox for my iPhone at the same time.