Sensor for Low Pressure Replacement - Increased Emissions Problem

Je n'ai pas vu de photos ou d'écrire sur ce quelque part, alors je me suis dit que je posterais ce que j'ai appris et mes images pour aider la prochaine personne qui a ce problème.

Tout d'abord, j'ai un autre fil où nous avons discuté des codes que ma voiture jetait et des problèmes / corrections possibles. Vous pouvez le voir sur ce lien si vous souhaitez lire l'histoire détaillée...
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t683661

Problème : J'ai reçu un voyant de contrôle du moteur et mon I-Drive a signalé «Émissions accrues».

Codes:
279D - Gestion de l'alimentation, violation du courant en circuit fermé
2722 - Capteur de pression du carburant, signal
27D0 - Adaptation du régulateur de pression du carburant
27BB - Système de carburant, lambda/charge plausibilité, banque 2
27C1 - Info: Réservoir vide à l'entrée de faute

Après avoir effacé les codes et que la faute soit revenue, c'est le seul code qui est revenu...
P0175 x2 - Système trop riche (Banque 2)

Ma solution : Remplacement du capteur pour basse pression

Partie: Partie 20 dans le lien ci-dessous...
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?modelVA93&mospid50624&btnr16_0596&hg16&fg15

Coût: $80-$140 Selon l'endroit où vous obtenez votre part...

Procédure :
1) Ouvrez le réservoir de gaz pour soulager la pression afin que le gaz ne se déverse pas trop.
2) Retirez la boîte à air (je vais essayer de trouver un lien vers cette procédure quelque part, ou je supprimerai le mien et prendrai plus de photos de cette partie)
3) Débranchez le vieux capteur
4) Retirer le vieux capteur
5) Installez un nouveau capteur. Faites très attention à ne pas trop serrer. La partie que vous arrachez est très grande et vous permettra d'appliquer beaucoup de pression sur les petits fils. Il y a un joint de ruber sur la nouvelle partie, donc vous ne voulez pas non plus le faire. Je ne suis pas sûr des spécifications de couple à ce sujet, alors peut-être que nous pouvons le regarder...
6) Branchez le nouveau capteur
7) Réinstallez la boîte à air et le filtre
8) Effacer vos codes
9) Manivelle de voiture et vérifier soigneusement les fuites

Voici les photos que j'ai. Je tourne le capteur dans l'image de loin. Il est du côté des conducteurs juste en face de la tour de choc.




Merci à Elm3 pour toute l'aide. C'était un nouveau pour nous deux, mais une expérience amusante...

Savourez une boisson froide.

C'était amusant de faire ça. Je suis content que nous ayons arrêté de prendre les couvertures au bas de la voiture. Je suis content d'avoir regardé dans le compartiment moteur et de l'avoir vu. Ou il nous aurait mordu dans le cul. J'aime apprendre de nouvelles choses dans cette voiture. C'était cool de vous voir traîner à la maison pendant un petit moment.

Eric

elm3 a écrit

C'était amusant de faire ça. Je suis content que nous ayons arrêté de prendre les couvertures au bas de la voiture. Je suis content d'avoir regardé dans le compartiment moteur et de l'avoir vu. Ou il nous aurait mordu dans le cul. J'aime apprendre de nouvelles choses dans cette voiture. C'était cool de vous voir traîner à la maison pendant un petit moment.

Eric

Oui, au moins on a appris ce qu'il y avait là-dessous... Contente que tu aies regardé aussi ! lol.

Thanks Bro this fixed my issue.

I had code 2722-Fuel Pressure Sensor elec diagnosis. The SES wouldn't go away despite clearing the codes with the Vishnu Procede. I went to BMW El Paso and bought a Low Pressure Fuel Sensor, Part #13537614317, $77. The directions above are great, but despite opening the gas cap there was a great deal of fuel spraying. I quickly unscrewed the old one and screwed in the new one. I cleared the codes and reset the ECU through the Procede Command Center. The SES is gone and everything appears good to go. I have 60,000 miles on my M3. This seems like a problem on post warranty vehicles. Thanks for the OP.

flip wrote

I have another thread where we discussed the codes my car was throwing and possible problems/fixes. You can see that at this link if you'd like to read the detailed back story...
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=683661

Problem: I got a check engine light and my I-Drive reported 'Increased Emissions'.

I've got a 2011 with 11,800 miles and sounds like I have the same issue.

I've been getting rough idle very occasionally for weeks. Then the car died after start-up one morning and I got all of the lights; shut 'er down, restarted and everything was gone. Then I started getting no power on light throttle when going under 10 mph unless I really pushed down.

Now this morning it almost died and then did a big over-rev and the SES and increased emissions lights came on. I shut 'er down, waited, and restarted with no change.

I set up an appointment with a local dealer but it's 2 weeks out. Question is, is this too long to wait with this problem? Should I be asking for earlier appointment (will do that anyway) and/or try a new dealer? Or do y'all think I'll be good until my appointment?

Thanks!!!

That's strange. If you can get it to the BMW dealership with those lights on, they will have to take it in. If there are no lights, just drive cautiously for the next two weeks and be thankful for the warranty.

Longbow64 wrote

I had code 2722-Fuel Pressure Sensor elec diagnosis. The SES wouldn't go away despite clearing the codes with the Vishnu Procede. I went to BMW El Paso and bought a Low Pressure Fuel Sensor, Part #13537614317, $77. The directions above are great, but despite opening the gas cap there was a great deal of fuel spraying. I quickly unscrewed the old one and screwed in the new one. I cleared the codes and reset the ECU through the Procede Command Center. The SES is gone and everything appears good to go. I have 60,000 miles on my M3. This seems like a problem on post warranty vehicles. Thanks for the OP.

60,000? How's it holding up? Any complaints?

The car's doing fine. I bought the car with 30k on it. Since then, I've had to replace a steering sensor (under warranty) and just recently a fuel sensor (self purchase and install <$100), and a rear left wheel bearing which should've cost just $320 parts/service, but ended up costing $2500. Only cost me my $150 Carmax extended warranty deductible (all of this is covered in a thread in the suspension forum). I also just paid for my first service on the car which ran me close to $500 for spark plugs and an oil change.

I had some misfires and a couple rough starts a couple months ago (also discussed in another thread) which I found out were caused by a loose grounding cable on my Vishnu piggyback. I tightened that up and there haven't been any further issues. I uninstalled my Procede and meth recently, not because of any issues or problems, but because I just wanted to switch to a flash based tune to vary it up a bit.

My driver seat is a little worn on the left side, but I plan on getting parts of the seat swapped out with alcanterra/suede/speed cloth. That will work well on the autocross too.

First Post...sorry to revive an old post, but this fix has 100% cured my Increased Emissions SES issue, so felt the need to thank the OP.
2008 E92 M3 w/~53k miles on it, had been, for 3-4 weeks consistently throwing codes P0172 & 5 for bank 1 & bank 2 rich, as well as a P0191 code related to low fuel pres. around the fuel rails/injectors (this was read using an ELM wifi OBDII and dash command app). Interestingly enough, from off idle to about 2,000 RPM, the car was making metallic "pinging" noise consistent with mild detonation. It was even more apparent when gas was applied under more of a load such as climbing a hill. With the Low Pressure Sensor swapped out for a new one (per flips post above) BOTH ISSUES are now completely gone. Thanks so much for your step-by-step, easy fix.

Guys, I have a 08 E92 M3, just flipped over 90k miles on it and about 90,300 I got the SES light and read the codes today and got the P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2). It sounds like this is a low pressure fuel sensor problem and not an O2 sensor problem from what I've been reading on here. To save a bit of trouble and time....whats my best route to go here? Just buy the Low Pressure Sensor and an O2 or what? Symptoms I've noticed....it all started with bad gas. Do NOT go to Getty to get gas...stupid mistake but no Shell's around where I live with V Power. The car would idle irradically from 1200 and drop to about 300 and almost cut off. Crappy take offs in the morning where the car studders a bit for about 5 seconds then it's fine. After the bad tank of gas was gone idle appeared much better...goes from about 700-1100 now but its still not like I bought it. Still a rough take off a bit but not near as bad...car is running fine, power is good but not as smooth as it used to be like I'm missing about 50 horses. Other than that the cars been running great for 90k+ miles! I can't complain. So any help would be awesome. I just dont want to do a bunch of swapping parts to only get this code back. Thanks

Go with the low pressure sensor, at first the codes seem to indicate an o2 sensor, but with the low pressure sensor replaced, all issues in my situation were fixed. I've got some decent mileage on it since the change, and no SES light. Car also improved greatly in terms of startup quality and drivability. Follow the instructions in this thread, more than likely your issue will be gone!

Magnetic Fusion wrote

Guys, I have a 08 E92 M3, just flipped over 90k miles on it and about 90,300 I got the SES light and read the codes today and got the P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2). It sounds like this is a low pressure fuel sensor problem and not an O2 sensor problem from what I've been reading on here. To save a bit of trouble and time....whats my best route to go here? Just buy the Low Pressure Sensor and an O2 or what? Symptoms I've noticed....it all started with bad gas. Do NOT go to Getty to get gas...stupid mistake but no Shell's around where I live with V Power. The car would idle irradically from 1200 and drop to about 300 and almost cut off. Crappy take offs in the morning where the car studders a bit for about 5 seconds then it's fine. After the bad tank of gas was gone idle appeared much better...goes from about 700-1100 now but its still not like I bought it. Still a rough take off a bit but not near as bad...car is running fine, power is good but not as smooth as it used to be like I'm missing about 50 horses. Other than that the cars been running great for 90k+ miles! I can't complain. So any help would be awesome. I just dont want to do a bunch of swapping parts to only get this code back. Thanks

Thanks I think I'll do that. And I can do that work myself too. I'll order one this week from my local BMW dealer and get it installed. Hopefully I get that loss of power and smooth idle again.

Got my car back last week after getting the 'increased emissions' warning, SES light, and 2722 code. The tech tested the fuel pressure - the ITSA indicated pressure was 4.5 bar, but the actual measured pressure was only about 3 bar. I am amazed the car still ran.

In addition to replacing the low pressure fuel sensor, they also replaced the control unit for the fuel pump (EKP). Stored code was 27CE. The not-always-stable idle and low speed bucking when cold that I thought was normal is now gone.

Dave

dngo wrote

Got my car back last week after getting the 'increased emissions' warning, SES light, and 2722 code. The tech tested the fuel pressure - the ITSA indicated pressure was 4.5 bar, but the actual measured pressure was only about 3 bar. I am amazed the car still ran.

In addition to replacing the low pressure fuel sensor, they also replaced the control unit for the fuel pump (EKP). Stored code was 27CE. The not-always-stable idle and low speed bucking when cold that I thought was normal is now gone.

Dave

Hey Dave I guess "bucking" is the perfect term used to describe my cars morning sickness. It feels like I'm a 15 year old kid learning to drive a stick! Ok so I'm wondering, I see I can do the Low Pressure Sensor myself per the DIY on this thread. I'm wondering about the control unit for the fuel pump. Is this going to be expensive and can I do this myself once the airbox is removed too? I'm an engineer and I've rebuilt the engine on my 1995 M3 but I've recently moved and don't have my garage space like I did in Arizona. Plus all my tools and ramps are in Arizona too. I'm in an apartment in NY now. So I may need to to bring to a shop if the work on the control unit to the fuel pump is too extensive. My car is out of warranty so all cost are coming out of my pocket. Anything to save a buck helps. So how much was all the work and parts for your fix because I like my cars running perfect and this SES light ruins my day. My 1995 M3 still has zero lights on the cluster on it and runs like new. No reason why my 08 can't run like new again

I have had cold start bucking for a while. I find that going to normal rather than power sensitivity for the throttle pretty much eliminates it. However, I have a pressure sensor on order so I will be installing that within the week. I bought it not because of the bucking on cold start at low speeds, but because of codes for the system running rich on both banks.

The codes were coming up every day or two. I replaced the primary 02s last week and the codes have not returned, but I suspect they will. One thing at a time.

Magnetic Fusion wrote

Hey Dave I guess "bucking" is the perfect term used to describe my cars morning sickness. It feels like I'm a 15 year old kid learning to drive a stick! Ok so I'm wondering, I see I can do the Low Pressure Sensor myself per the DIY on this thread. I'm wondering about the control unit for the fuel pump. Is this going to be expensive and can I do this myself once the airbox is removed too? I'm an engineer and I've rebuilt the engine on my 1995 M3 but I've recently moved and don't have my garage space like I did in Arizona. Plus all my tools and ramps are in Arizona too. I'm in an apartment in NY now. So I may need to to bring to a shop if the work on the control unit to the fuel pump is too extensive. My car is out of warranty so all cost are coming out of my pocket. Anything to save a buck helps. So how much was all the work and parts for your fix because I like my cars running perfect and this SES light ruins my day. My 1995 M3 still has zero lights on the cluster on it and runs like new. No reason why my 08 can't run like new again

Since my car is CPO, I didn't replace the parts myself and I'm not sure what they cost. According to the following thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328421&highlight=ekp

The EKP seems easy to replace but the RealOEM diagram shows a European 1 Series in the diagram, so I'm not sure exactly where it is (unless it's in the same place on the E9x.)

Looks like the part itself is about $233 (from getbmwparts.com.)

Dave

My car was getting the SES, increased emissions problem.. and cutting power.

I ordered the replacement low pressure fuel sensor, has not arrived yet.

Today, I got a slew of new control msg errors.

Engine Malfunction! Reduced Power
DSC Malfunction! Drive carefully
DBC Malfunction! Drive carefully
Start-off assistance inactive!

So.. now I have a feeling the low pressure fuel sensor fix isn't going to correct all these other issues unfortunately

Anyone have these other errors thrown from the low-pressure fuel sensor going bad? I'm still hoping it will resolve everything but with these new msgs I'm not too optimistic...

c

pbonsalb wrote

I have had cold start bucking for a while. I find that going to normal rather than power sensitivity for the throttle pretty much eliminates it. However, I have a pressure sensor on order so I will be installing that within the week. I bought it not because of the bucking on cold start at low speeds, but because of codes for the system running rich on both banks.

The codes were coming up every day or two. I replaced the primary 02s last week and the codes have not returned, but I suspect they will. One thing at a time.

For what it's worth, when I was diagnosing my Increased Emissions problem, I was using a wifi OBD2 tool in conjunction with a basic iphone app called DashCommand. Even after clearing the Bank1/2 rich codes a few times to see if they'd come back...when checking the car with the obd app, the codes would often come right back as "pending codes"...i.e. they were definitely there, granted no SES light on the dash had been activated just yet. Eventually after driving the car some, those pending codes would eventually trigger the actual light. Since changing the low pressure fuel sensor, I haven't had ANY codes come back, and I've been scanning the car regularly for a little over a month now, under all types of driving conditions.

The install is VERY easy. I did the swap in about 10 minutes...pop the gas cap open (presumably relieves a little pressure, not sure if it actually did anything or not), remove the intake airbox so you can get a wrench on the old sensor, carefully loosen it, swap in the new one, reconnect the wiring connector, and replace airbox assembly. For what its worth, I had absolutely zero fuel come out when removing the old sensor...

I replaced mine a few days ago, low fuel pressure sensor. I had a Increased Emissions on my idrive screen and a CEL. I have 56k miles on my 2008. The sensor did the trick, the light went away the next day I drove it. BEWARE, DO NOT TIGHTEN the sensor too tight. I accidentally did and tore up the rubber seal. Luckily, I have plenty of miscellaneous little parts like that left over from my E30 swap. Replaced it and good to go now, all smooth, no lights, idle is very smooth now.

Ok I'm definitely going to replace the low pressure sensor. 10 minutes of work sounds great to me! From what it looks like it's clearing everyone elses problems up so I'm hoping for the same results. I'll get that part on order now. As for the fuel pump control unit, I might hold off on that as that seems to not really be related to my code at all per the other threads. I'll give the low pressure sensor a go first. Thanks everyone! I'll post my results after I'm done.

Magnetic Fusion wrote

Ok I'm definitely going to replace the low pressure sensor. 10 minutes of work sounds great to me!

MF I hope you fared well. I just changed mine this morning. 10 minutes of work maybe if you're part of an Indy Pit crew. Sometimes I laugh when I read all these estimates. I know comparatively speaking I am NOT a great mechanic by any standard but 10 minutes is just pure BS.

I got mine done in probably 45 minutes. It would have been a little faster, but when I got the airbox off my filter was filthy. It was loaded with leaves, dead beetles, debris, grass, everything you could think of. So when I got it out, I sprayed it with compressed air, probably gained 5 hp right there, LOL.

One of the big challenges for me who isn't savvy with tools was getting the right size wrenches which I know wasted a few minutes. The 2 bolts with washers on the right side of the airbox worked well with 10mm. There is also a small wiring harness running right past that which would be best if you move. It has two small plastic clips attaching it to the car, you just pull it straight out and clip it back in later.

Another thing I recommend is when removing the airbox where the filter attaches to the inlet on the left is not to take that metal bracket all the way off. Most wouldn't, but if you are n00b like me you could make the mistake (I didn't but almost did). Just loosen it and slide it to the left.

Last piece of advice.. people have said to be careful not to overtighten the sensor. I think I saw one thread discussing using a 9/16 on the bottom of the sensor to tighten it. I thought that made NO SENSE and when I gave it an attempt, my thought was confirmed. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the thick metal part of the sensor, not the tiny metal lip under it by the rubber grommet. Way less chance of screwing up that grommet which you need to seal properly.

I hand tightened the sensor, and then with the wrench probably turned it MAYBE an extra 1/8-1/4". Other posters warned about overtightening and I agree, if you do that, you will probably be hosed.

I turned me car on and let it warm up before putting the top of the airbox on in case it was leaking and I would need to disassemble. No leaks.

Put the top back in place (and by the way I highly recommend starting with the T-25 screws at the bottom of the airbox and working your way up, I didn't do that at first and then I couldn't connect the lowest screw because it shifted a bit) and then took the car out for a quick road test.

My codes were all thrown when I was getting on the gas more aggressively (generally every time I went above around 4K rpm). I had a few pops up to 7k and NO CODES!!! The drive was about 10 min but before it would instantly show tons of error messages as soon as I hit the gas hard. No such messages now.

I will take the car on a longer drive later this morning to an appt, around 35 minutes away. Hopefully there will be no issues but so far, so good!

c