Sensor for Low Pressure Replacement - Increased Emissions Problem

Je n'ai vu aucune photo ni aucun compte-rendu là-dessus, alors je me suis dit que j'allais partager mes découvertes et mes photos pour donner un coup de main au prochain qui tombera sur ce problème...

Déjà, j'ai un autre topic où on a discuté des codes d'erreur de ma caisse et des problèmes ou solutions possibles. Vous pouvez aller voir ce lien si vous voulez tout le topo détaillé...
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=683661

Problème : J'ai un voyant moteur allumé et mon iDrive indique « Émissions augmentées ».

Codes :
279D - Gestion de l'énergie, violation du courant en circuit fermé
2722 - Capteur de pression de carburant, signal
27D0 - Adaptation de la régulation de la pression de carburant
27BB - Système d'alimentation en carburant, plausibilité lambda/charge, banc 2
27C1 - Info : Réservoir vide lors de l'enregistrement du défaut

Après avoir effacé les codes, le défaut est réapparu et c'est le seul code qui est remonté...
P0175 x2 - Mélange trop riche (Bank 2)

Ma solution : Remplacer le capteur de basse pression

Pièce : La pièce n°20 dans le lien ci-dessous...
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VA93&mospid=50624&btnr=16_0596&hg=16&fg=15

Prix : 80 $ - 140 $ selon l'endroit où vous vous procurez votre pièce...

Procédure :
1) Ouvrez le bouchon du réservoir pour évacuer la pression et éviter que le carburant ne déborde trop.
2) Retirez le boîtier à air (je vais essayer de trouver un lien vers cette procédure quelque part, ou je démonterai le mien à nouveau pour prendre plus de photos de cette étape)
3) Débrancher l'ancien capteur
4) Retirer l'ancien capteur
5) Installez le nouveau capteur. Faites très attention à ne pas trop serrer. La partie où l'on place la clé est très large, ce qui permet d'appliquer une pression énorme sur les petits filets. Il y a un joint en caoutchouc sur la pièce neuve, donc évitez de le bousiller. Je ne suis pas sûr du couple de serrage pour ça, on pourrait peut-être chercher l'info...
6) Brancher le nouveau capteur
7) Réinstaller le boîtier à air et le filtre
8) Effacez vos codes
9) Démarrez le moteur et vérifiez soigneusement l'absence de fuites

Voici les photos que j'ai. J'ai entouré le capteur sur la vue d'ensemble. Il se trouve du côté conducteur, juste devant la tour d'amortisseur.




Un ÉNORME merci à Elm3 pour tout son coup de main là-dessus. C'était une première pour nous deux, mais c'était une expérience sympa...

Prenez une boisson bien fraîche.

C'était amusant de faire ça. Je suis content que nous ayons arrêté de prendre les couvertures au bas de la voiture. Je suis content d'avoir regardé dans le compartiment moteur et de l'avoir vu. Ou il nous aurait mordu dans le cul. J'aime apprendre de nouvelles choses dans cette voiture. C'était cool de vous voir traîner à la maison pendant un petit moment.

Eric

elm3 a écrit

C'était amusant de faire ça. Je suis content que nous ayons arrêté de prendre les couvertures au bas de la voiture. Je suis content d'avoir regardé dans le compartiment moteur et de l'avoir vu. Ou il nous aurait mordu dans le cul. J'aime apprendre de nouvelles choses dans cette voiture. C'était cool de vous voir traîner à la maison pendant un petit moment.

Eric

Oui, au moins on a appris ce qu'il y avait là-dessous... Contente que tu aies regardé aussi ! lol.

Merci mon frère, ça a réglé mon problème.

J'ai eu le diagnostic du capteur de pression de carburant 2722. Le SES ne partirait pas malgré l'effacement des codes avec le Vishnu Procede. Je suis allé chez BMW El Paso et j'ai acheté un capteur de carburant basse pression, pièce 13537614317, 77 $. Les directions ci-dessus sont grandes, mais malgré l'ouverture du bouchon de gaz il y avait beaucoup de pulvérisation de carburant. J'ai rapidement dévissé l'ancien et vissé le nouveau. J'ai effacé les codes et réinitialisé l'ECU via le centre de commande Procede. Le SES est parti et tout semble bon à partir. J'ai 60 000 miles sur ma M3. Cela semble être un problème sur les véhicules post-garantie. Merci pour l'op.

Flip a écrit

J'ai un autre fil où nous avons discuté des codes que ma voiture jetait et des problèmes / corrections possibles. Vous pouvez le voir sur ce lien si vous souhaitez lire l'histoire détaillée...
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t683661

Problème : J'ai reçu un voyant de contrôle du moteur et mon I-Drive a signalé «Émissions accrues».

J'ai un 2011 avec 11 800 miles et on dirait que j'ai le même problème.

J'ai commencé à être oisif de temps en temps. Puis la voiture est morte après le démarrage un matin et j'ai obtenu tous les feux; er arrêté, redémarré et tout était parti. Ensuite, j'ai commencé à ne pas avoir de puissance sur les gaz légers en passant sous 10 mph à moins que je pousse vraiment vers le bas.

Maintenant, ce matin, il a failli mourir et puis a fait un grand sur-rév et le SES et l'augmentation des émissions de lumières est venu. J'ai fermé, attendu et redémarré sans changement.

J'ai pris rendez-vous avec un revendeur local, mais c'est 2 semaines. La question est, est-ce trop long d'attendre avec ce problème? Devrais-je demander un rendez-vous plus tôt (le faire de toute façon) et / ou essayer un nouveau concessionnaire? Ou pensez-vous que je serai bon jusqu'à mon rendez-vous ?

Merci beaucoup !

C'est étrange. Si vous pouvez l'obtenir à la concession BMW avec ces lumières allumées, ils devront le prendre. S'il n'y a pas de lumière, conduisez prudemment pendant les deux prochaines semaines et soyez reconnaissant pour la garantie.

Longbow64 a écrit

J'ai eu le diagnostic du capteur de pression de carburant 2722. Le SES ne partirait pas malgré l'effacement des codes avec le Vishnu Procede. Je suis allé chez BMW El Paso et j'ai acheté un capteur de carburant basse pression, pièce 13537614317, 77 $. Les directions ci-dessus sont grandes, mais malgré l'ouverture du bouchon de gaz il y avait beaucoup de pulvérisation de carburant. J'ai rapidement dévissé l'ancien et vissé le nouveau. J'ai effacé les codes et réinitialisé l'ECU via le centre de commande Procede. Le SES est parti et tout semble bon à partir. J'ai 60 000 miles sur ma M3. Cela semble être un problème sur les véhicules post-garantie. Merci pour l'op.

60 000 ? Comment ça se passe ? Des plaintes ?

La voiture va bien. J'ai acheté la voiture avec 30k dessus. Depuis lors, j'ai dû remplacer un capteur de direction (sous garantie) et tout récemment un capteur de carburant (auto-achat et installation 100 $), ainsi qu'un roulement de roue arrière gauche qui aurait dû coûter seulement 320 $ pièces / service, mais a fini par coûter 2500 $. Seulement me coûter ma franchise de garantie prolongée Carmax $ 150 (tout cela est couvert dans un fil dans le forum de suspension). Je viens également de payer pour mon premier service sur la voiture qui m'a coûté près de 500 $ pour les bougies et un changement d'huile.

J'ai eu quelques ratés et quelques démarrages difficiles il y a quelques mois (également discuté dans un autre fil) que j'ai découvert ont été causés par un câble de mise à la terre lâche sur mon cochon Vishnu. Je l'ai resserré et il n'y a pas eu d'autres problèmes. J'ai désinstallé mon Procede et meth récemment, non pas à cause de problèmes ou de problèmes, mais parce que je voulais juste passer à un morceau basé sur flash pour le varier un peu.

Mon siège conducteur est un peu usé sur le côté gauche, mais je prévois d'obtenir des parties du siège échangées avec alcanterra / suede / tissu de vitesse. a marchera bien sur l'autocross aussi.

First Post...sorry to revive an old post, but this fix has 100% cured my Increased Emissions SES issue, so felt the need to thank the OP.
2008 E92 M3 w/~53k miles on it, had been, for 3-4 weeks consistently throwing codes P0172 & 5 for bank 1 & bank 2 rich, as well as a P0191 code related to low fuel pres. around the fuel rails/injectors (this was read using an ELM wifi OBDII and dash command app). Interestingly enough, from off idle to about 2,000 RPM, the car was making metallic "pinging" noise consistent with mild detonation. It was even more apparent when gas was applied under more of a load such as climbing a hill. With the Low Pressure Sensor swapped out for a new one (per flips post above) BOTH ISSUES are now completely gone. Thanks so much for your step-by-step, easy fix.

Guys, I have a 08 E92 M3, just flipped over 90k miles on it and about 90,300 I got the SES light and read the codes today and got the P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2). It sounds like this is a low pressure fuel sensor problem and not an O2 sensor problem from what I've been reading on here. To save a bit of trouble and time....whats my best route to go here? Just buy the Low Pressure Sensor and an O2 or what? Symptoms I've noticed....it all started with bad gas. Do NOT go to Getty to get gas...stupid mistake but no Shell's around where I live with V Power. The car would idle irradically from 1200 and drop to about 300 and almost cut off. Crappy take offs in the morning where the car studders a bit for about 5 seconds then it's fine. After the bad tank of gas was gone idle appeared much better...goes from about 700-1100 now but its still not like I bought it. Still a rough take off a bit but not near as bad...car is running fine, power is good but not as smooth as it used to be like I'm missing about 50 horses. Other than that the cars been running great for 90k+ miles! I can't complain. So any help would be awesome. I just dont want to do a bunch of swapping parts to only get this code back. Thanks

Go with the low pressure sensor, at first the codes seem to indicate an o2 sensor, but with the low pressure sensor replaced, all issues in my situation were fixed. I've got some decent mileage on it since the change, and no SES light. Car also improved greatly in terms of startup quality and drivability. Follow the instructions in this thread, more than likely your issue will be gone!

Magnetic Fusion wrote

Guys, I have a 08 E92 M3, just flipped over 90k miles on it and about 90,300 I got the SES light and read the codes today and got the P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2). It sounds like this is a low pressure fuel sensor problem and not an O2 sensor problem from what I've been reading on here. To save a bit of trouble and time....whats my best route to go here? Just buy the Low Pressure Sensor and an O2 or what? Symptoms I've noticed....it all started with bad gas. Do NOT go to Getty to get gas...stupid mistake but no Shell's around where I live with V Power. The car would idle irradically from 1200 and drop to about 300 and almost cut off. Crappy take offs in the morning where the car studders a bit for about 5 seconds then it's fine. After the bad tank of gas was gone idle appeared much better...goes from about 700-1100 now but its still not like I bought it. Still a rough take off a bit but not near as bad...car is running fine, power is good but not as smooth as it used to be like I'm missing about 50 horses. Other than that the cars been running great for 90k+ miles! I can't complain. So any help would be awesome. I just dont want to do a bunch of swapping parts to only get this code back. Thanks

Thanks I think I'll do that. And I can do that work myself too. I'll order one this week from my local BMW dealer and get it installed. Hopefully I get that loss of power and smooth idle again.

Got my car back last week after getting the 'increased emissions' warning, SES light, and 2722 code. The tech tested the fuel pressure - the ITSA indicated pressure was 4.5 bar, but the actual measured pressure was only about 3 bar. I am amazed the car still ran.

In addition to replacing the low pressure fuel sensor, they also replaced the control unit for the fuel pump (EKP). Stored code was 27CE. The not-always-stable idle and low speed bucking when cold that I thought was normal is now gone.

Dave

dngo wrote

Got my car back last week after getting the 'increased emissions' warning, SES light, and 2722 code. The tech tested the fuel pressure - the ITSA indicated pressure was 4.5 bar, but the actual measured pressure was only about 3 bar. I am amazed the car still ran.

In addition to replacing the low pressure fuel sensor, they also replaced the control unit for the fuel pump (EKP). Stored code was 27CE. The not-always-stable idle and low speed bucking when cold that I thought was normal is now gone.

Dave

Hey Dave I guess "bucking" is the perfect term used to describe my cars morning sickness. It feels like I'm a 15 year old kid learning to drive a stick! Ok so I'm wondering, I see I can do the Low Pressure Sensor myself per the DIY on this thread. I'm wondering about the control unit for the fuel pump. Is this going to be expensive and can I do this myself once the airbox is removed too? I'm an engineer and I've rebuilt the engine on my 1995 M3 but I've recently moved and don't have my garage space like I did in Arizona. Plus all my tools and ramps are in Arizona too. I'm in an apartment in NY now. So I may need to to bring to a shop if the work on the control unit to the fuel pump is too extensive. My car is out of warranty so all cost are coming out of my pocket. Anything to save a buck helps. So how much was all the work and parts for your fix because I like my cars running perfect and this SES light ruins my day. My 1995 M3 still has zero lights on the cluster on it and runs like new. No reason why my 08 can't run like new again

I have had cold start bucking for a while. I find that going to normal rather than power sensitivity for the throttle pretty much eliminates it. However, I have a pressure sensor on order so I will be installing that within the week. I bought it not because of the bucking on cold start at low speeds, but because of codes for the system running rich on both banks.

The codes were coming up every day or two. I replaced the primary 02s last week and the codes have not returned, but I suspect they will. One thing at a time.

Magnetic Fusion wrote

Hey Dave I guess "bucking" is the perfect term used to describe my cars morning sickness. It feels like I'm a 15 year old kid learning to drive a stick! Ok so I'm wondering, I see I can do the Low Pressure Sensor myself per the DIY on this thread. I'm wondering about the control unit for the fuel pump. Is this going to be expensive and can I do this myself once the airbox is removed too? I'm an engineer and I've rebuilt the engine on my 1995 M3 but I've recently moved and don't have my garage space like I did in Arizona. Plus all my tools and ramps are in Arizona too. I'm in an apartment in NY now. So I may need to to bring to a shop if the work on the control unit to the fuel pump is too extensive. My car is out of warranty so all cost are coming out of my pocket. Anything to save a buck helps. So how much was all the work and parts for your fix because I like my cars running perfect and this SES light ruins my day. My 1995 M3 still has zero lights on the cluster on it and runs like new. No reason why my 08 can't run like new again

Since my car is CPO, I didn't replace the parts myself and I'm not sure what they cost. According to the following thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328421&highlight=ekp

The EKP seems easy to replace but the RealOEM diagram shows a European 1 Series in the diagram, so I'm not sure exactly where it is (unless it's in the same place on the E9x.)

Looks like the part itself is about $233 (from getbmwparts.com.)

Dave

My car was getting the SES, increased emissions problem.. and cutting power.

I ordered the replacement low pressure fuel sensor, has not arrived yet.

Today, I got a slew of new control msg errors.

Engine Malfunction! Reduced Power
DSC Malfunction! Drive carefully
DBC Malfunction! Drive carefully
Start-off assistance inactive!

So.. now I have a feeling the low pressure fuel sensor fix isn't going to correct all these other issues unfortunately

Anyone have these other errors thrown from the low-pressure fuel sensor going bad? I'm still hoping it will resolve everything but with these new msgs I'm not too optimistic...

c

pbonsalb wrote

I have had cold start bucking for a while. I find that going to normal rather than power sensitivity for the throttle pretty much eliminates it. However, I have a pressure sensor on order so I will be installing that within the week. I bought it not because of the bucking on cold start at low speeds, but because of codes for the system running rich on both banks.

The codes were coming up every day or two. I replaced the primary 02s last week and the codes have not returned, but I suspect they will. One thing at a time.

For what it's worth, when I was diagnosing my Increased Emissions problem, I was using a wifi OBD2 tool in conjunction with a basic iphone app called DashCommand. Even after clearing the Bank1/2 rich codes a few times to see if they'd come back...when checking the car with the obd app, the codes would often come right back as "pending codes"...i.e. they were definitely there, granted no SES light on the dash had been activated just yet. Eventually after driving the car some, those pending codes would eventually trigger the actual light. Since changing the low pressure fuel sensor, I haven't had ANY codes come back, and I've been scanning the car regularly for a little over a month now, under all types of driving conditions.

The install is VERY easy. I did the swap in about 10 minutes...pop the gas cap open (presumably relieves a little pressure, not sure if it actually did anything or not), remove the intake airbox so you can get a wrench on the old sensor, carefully loosen it, swap in the new one, reconnect the wiring connector, and replace airbox assembly. For what its worth, I had absolutely zero fuel come out when removing the old sensor...

I replaced mine a few days ago, low fuel pressure sensor. I had a Increased Emissions on my idrive screen and a CEL. I have 56k miles on my 2008. The sensor did the trick, the light went away the next day I drove it. BEWARE, DO NOT TIGHTEN the sensor too tight. I accidentally did and tore up the rubber seal. Luckily, I have plenty of miscellaneous little parts like that left over from my E30 swap. Replaced it and good to go now, all smooth, no lights, idle is very smooth now.

Ok I'm definitely going to replace the low pressure sensor. 10 minutes of work sounds great to me! From what it looks like it's clearing everyone elses problems up so I'm hoping for the same results. I'll get that part on order now. As for the fuel pump control unit, I might hold off on that as that seems to not really be related to my code at all per the other threads. I'll give the low pressure sensor a go first. Thanks everyone! I'll post my results after I'm done.

Magnetic Fusion wrote

Ok I'm definitely going to replace the low pressure sensor. 10 minutes of work sounds great to me!

MF I hope you fared well. I just changed mine this morning. 10 minutes of work maybe if you're part of an Indy Pit crew. Sometimes I laugh when I read all these estimates. I know comparatively speaking I am NOT a great mechanic by any standard but 10 minutes is just pure BS.

I got mine done in probably 45 minutes. It would have been a little faster, but when I got the airbox off my filter was filthy. It was loaded with leaves, dead beetles, debris, grass, everything you could think of. So when I got it out, I sprayed it with compressed air, probably gained 5 hp right there, LOL.

One of the big challenges for me who isn't savvy with tools was getting the right size wrenches which I know wasted a few minutes. The 2 bolts with washers on the right side of the airbox worked well with 10mm. There is also a small wiring harness running right past that which would be best if you move. It has two small plastic clips attaching it to the car, you just pull it straight out and clip it back in later.

Another thing I recommend is when removing the airbox where the filter attaches to the inlet on the left is not to take that metal bracket all the way off. Most wouldn't, but if you are n00b like me you could make the mistake (I didn't but almost did). Just loosen it and slide it to the left.

Last piece of advice.. people have said to be careful not to overtighten the sensor. I think I saw one thread discussing using a 9/16 on the bottom of the sensor to tighten it. I thought that made NO SENSE and when I gave it an attempt, my thought was confirmed. I used an adjustable wrench to turn the thick metal part of the sensor, not the tiny metal lip under it by the rubber grommet. Way less chance of screwing up that grommet which you need to seal properly.

I hand tightened the sensor, and then with the wrench probably turned it MAYBE an extra 1/8-1/4". Other posters warned about overtightening and I agree, if you do that, you will probably be hosed.

I turned me car on and let it warm up before putting the top of the airbox on in case it was leaking and I would need to disassemble. No leaks.

Put the top back in place (and by the way I highly recommend starting with the T-25 screws at the bottom of the airbox and working your way up, I didn't do that at first and then I couldn't connect the lowest screw because it shifted a bit) and then took the car out for a quick road test.

My codes were all thrown when I was getting on the gas more aggressively (generally every time I went above around 4K rpm). I had a few pops up to 7k and NO CODES!!! The drive was about 10 min but before it would instantly show tons of error messages as soon as I hit the gas hard. No such messages now.

I will take the car on a longer drive later this morning to an appt, around 35 minutes away. Hopefully there will be no issues but so far, so good!

c