DavidZ a écritQuelqu'un a essayé Pentosin FFL-4 75w Transmission Fluid? La bouteille dit que c'est pour DCT mais ECS le répertorie pour chaque manuel BMW. Je suis confuse. Le FFL-4 a-t-il remplacé le MTF-LT-2 ?
EDIT : j'ai trouvé ça Quel est le problème avec le liquide de transmission MTF-LT-2?
Yah partout où je vais montre pour commander ffl4 side mtf5 n'est plus disponible
DavidZ a écritQuelqu'un a essayé Pentosin FFL-4 75w Transmission Fluid? La bouteille dit que c'est pour DCT mais ECS le répertorie pour chaque manuel BMW. Je suis confuse. Le FFL-4 a-t-il remplacé le MTF-LT-2 ?
EDIT : j'ai trouvé ça Quel est le problème avec le liquide de transmission MTF-LT-2?
shimmy23 écritYah partout où je vais montre pour commander ffl4 side mtf5 n'est plus disponible
J'ai beaucoup creusé là-dessus. Pentosin insiste sur le fait que FFL-4 est essentiellement une mise à niveau vers MTF2, qui est leur fluide spécifique MTF-LT-2.
J'utilise FFL-4 en ce moment. a a l'air génial pour la qualité du changement.
jerrick23 wroteYes. Otherwise you might not end up putting the right amount of fluid in the trans.Does the car have to be level? I dont have a lift at home :/
IamFODI wroteOk! Thanks for the reply!Yes. Otherwise you might not end up putting the right amount of fluid in the trans.
MikeyDawg a écritJe vais bientôt effectuer ce service sur ma voiture avec 60k miles. Je n'ai aucune trace de ce qui a été fait auparavant.
Quel est le consensus général sur le remplacement du filtre par une voiture avec 60k miles? Nécessaire ou pas ?
Très bon article op. Merci.
Je ne peux pas parler au nom du consensus, mais il n'y a aucune bonne raison de ne pas remplacer le filtre.
Assurez-vous simplement que le joint est centré sur le nouveau filtre avant de le serrer et qu'il n'est pas tombé sur les filetages pendant que vous vissiez le filtre.
IamFODI wroteYeah I guess there's no point in skimping out of a $50 part for a 30000 mile service item.Can't speak for the consensus, but IMO there's no good reason not to replace the filter.
Just make sure the gasket is centered on the new filter before you tighten it, and that it hasn't dropped onto the threads while you were screwing the filter in.
Scharbag wroteCurious to know if changing from D4 to MTL affected your gear rattle.About to tackle this again - moved to a warmer climate so I am going to change from Redline D4-ATF to Redline MTL in my 6MT. I have a bit of the gear rattle at idle with clutch out. Likely will make absolutely no difference but I thought I would do it because I am also going to be in there to change my exhaust. Might as well kill 2 birds and all that.
Since I moved, I have no access to my buddies AutoLogix. So, I had to go through the process of getting INPA and ISTA-D running.
FYI I bought a LZLRUN INPA USB to OBD cable from Amazon. It works well and stays connected, even when reading VANOS live data which is pretty data intensive. Bimmergeeks has some good information on INPA and ISTA-D.
My other approach was to try to find the car-side connector for the transmission fluid pump and then rig up a battery and a switch. I had a hell of a time even trying to find the part number of the plug. I may still try to find it just to complete the loop. Does anyone have this part number? But, now that I have ISTA-D, I should be able to trigger the pump to properly drain and fill the 6MT.
Cheers,
fourrum wroteThere is no way to tell unless you drain some to look at.My Indy mech said I should replace my transmission oil when I took my car in for a service.
I didn't notice much difference in shifting.
How do I know if he was not bluffing and he indeed replaced the transmission oil?
PandaM3 wroteWas the car level when you drained and filled? I've done this procedure several times but can't remember how much fluid it takes on average. As long as you've filled to where it's dripping out you should be fine.I just did this DIY on an e90 M3.
I bought the FCP Euro service kit that came with 2 bottles of the Redline MTL.
I filled till I got a small slow very slow drip from the plug and that took up 2 whole bottles.
Is the 2 bottles enough? Or do I need to take it for a drive and order a 3rd bottle? I figure the service kit had everything I needed but now on this thread I’m hearing people are using 2.5L... I should’ve paid more attention and gotten an extra bottle of this and diff fluid. Even my FCP euro diff fluids 3 bottles only got me as far as a small drip as well.
//steve\\ wroteI think the pump only activates when the oil gets hot so just idling the car won't pump any fluid. When I installed my trans cooler I cycled the pump with this method. A previous time, after filling the trans, I left the trans cover off, went for a hard drive to heat up the oil and came back and topped off. Even if you don't, I doubt that the amount used up in the lines and cooler would get you to a dangerously low trans fluid level.For those of us that don't have any of the software tools to properly cycle the trans pump could one simply drain and fill, run the car for 30 seconds, and then recheck fluid level and fill more if needed?
I'm looking at swapping a trans cooler which will inevitably cause me to lose a little bit of fluid.
DavidZ wroteYeah car was level on a quick jack.PandaM3 wroteWas the car level when you drained and filled? I've done this procedure several times but can't remember how much fluid it takes on average. As long as you've filled to where it's dripping out you should be fine.I just did this DIY on an e90 M3.
I bought the FCP Euro service kit that came with 2 bottles of the Redline MTL.
I filled till I got a small slow very slow drip from the plug and that took up 2 whole bottles.
Is the 2 bottles enough? Or do I need to take it for a drive and order a 3rd bottle? I figure the service kit had everything I needed but now on this thread I'm hearing people are using 2.5L... I should've paid more attention and gotten an extra bottle of this and diff fluid. Even my FCP euro diff fluids 3 bottles only got me as far as a small drip as well.
//steve\\ wroteI think the pump only activates when the oil gets hot so just idling the car won't pump any fluid. When I installed my trans cooler I cycled the pump with this method. A previous time, after filling the trans, I left the trans cover off, went for a hard drive to heat up the oil and came back and topped off. Even if you don't, I doubt that the amount used up in the lines and cooler would get you to a dangerously low trans fluid level.For those of us that don't have any of the software tools to properly cycle the trans pump could one simply drain and fill, run the car for 30 seconds, and then recheck fluid level and fill more if needed?
I'm looking at swapping a trans cooler which will inevitably cause me to lose a little bit of fluid.
DavidZ wroteI had the same thought. I wouldn't go drive it hard without re-checking but figured with no tools I could fill it until it drips out and then roll around the neighborhood to get the temp up a bit and then jack it back up to recheck fluid level.Was the car level when you drained and filled? I've done this procedure several times but can't remember how much fluid it takes on average. As long as you've filled to where it's dripping out you should be fine.
I think the pump only activates when the oil gets hot so just idling the car won't pump any fluid. When I installed my trans cooler I cycled the pump with this method. A previous time, after filling the trans, I left the trans cover off, went for a hard drive to heat up the oil and came back and topped off. Even if you don't, I doubt that the amount used up in the lines and cooler would get you to a dangerously low trans fluid level.
