Hawk HP Plus Race Pads

How bad is it to drive on race pads for maybe the most a week of DD? I plan on tracking my car which I'll need to install the race pads then after the trackday, I prob wont have time to take it to a mechanic to swap pads until the weekend. Maybe I can get the pads changed during lunch at work or learn to change the pads myself...

What do you guys think?

Doesn't matter. I do it all the time. You'll just get annoyed of the squealing

okay awesome!

Agreed, its fine if you don't mind the noise. HP plus aren't race race pads anyway. A real race pad can be hectic at times if its not warmed up and you need a quick stop.

^ agree with all the above. also, you should definitely learn to change them yourself, it's super easy DIY and will save you $$$! kinda fun too.

This isn't a race pad?

s4one wrote

This isn't a race pad?

It 'can' be used as a track pad for some lighter cars, but for an E9x I would stick with a DTC60/70 from Hawk. HP+ is fine for DD'ing, and most guys use them soley for autocross/street combo, and some Miata guys use them for track.

TC Kline Racing wrote

It 'can' be used as a track pad for some lighter cars, but for an E9x I would stick with a DTC60/70 from Hawk. HP+ is fine for DD'ing, and most guys use them soley for autocross/street combo, and some Miata guys use them for track.

Okay, thanks. If I were to use DTC70 can I drive with it to the track?

s4one wrote

Okay, thanks. If I were to use DTC70 can I drive with it to the track?

Sure, you'll just need to give yourself a little more stopping distance when you are using the brakes when they are cold on the street. I wouldn't make a habit of it, and just learn to swap pads at the track, it's a little easier to drive your car then on the street.

Thanks!

I would avoid Hawk DTC pads. They are RACE pads for RACE CARS. They stop very well but the brake dust is also very corrosive and can eat the finish on your wheels and paint. If you care about the condition of your car, do not do it!

HP+ pads are great for track use. I get lazy and leve mine in around town. They squeal a bit

Is there a DIY for removing the front/rear pads and installing the 60/70 hawk pads? Is that what people usually do or do they use the same pad all around?

THE-FN-MAN wrote

Is there a DIY for removing the front/rear pads and installing the 60/70 hawk pads? Is that what people usually do or do they use the same pad all around?

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246116

s4one wrote

This isn't a race pad?

TC Kline Racing wrote

It 'can' be used as a track pad for some lighter cars, but for an E9x I would stick with a DTC60/70 from Hawk. HP+ is fine for DD'ing, and most guys use them soley for autocross/street combo, and some Miata guys use them for track.

TC Kline Racing wrote

Sure, you'll just need to give yourself a little more stopping distance when you are using the brakes when they are cold on the street. I wouldn't make a habit of it, and just learn to swap pads at the track, it's a little easier to drive your car then on the street.

Exactly. Agreed. The E9X is so heavy that the HP+ (a "race" pad) really doesn't do the job unless you are taking it easy. I tried them a while ago with stock calipers and they scared me coming down the back straight. Like I said before and what was said above you can drive with them on the street, but they are made to be hot so don't expect them to stop quickly when they are cold (or on the street at all for that matter because you will never get them to race temps, obviously). Just leave a safety buffer and you will be ok.
Also, if you want to stay with Hawk and go to the track with your DD get the better pads (DTC) for safety. Your car can be replaced or repainted but you can't!

Notnug wrote

Exactly. Agreed. The E9X is so heavy that the HP+ (a "race" pad) really doesn't do the job unless you are taking it easy. I tried them a while ago with stock calipers and they scared me coming down the back straight. Like I said before and what was said above you can drive with them on the street, but they are made to be hot so don't expect them to stop quickly when they are cold (or on the street at all for that matter because you will never get them to race temps, obviously). Just leave a safety buffer and you will be ok.
Also, if you want to stay with Hawk and go to the track with your DD get the better pads (DTC) for safety. Your car can be replaced or repainted but you can't!

There are plenty of pads that will get you "race" braking torque and heat levels that do not have paint eating brake dust. All the Carbotech XP pads, Raybestos ST-43 and Project Mu Club Racer pads come to mind. I am sure there are others as well.

Hawk pads use old technology... you don't need to settle for choosing between subpar braking or paint eating dust. There are plenty of pads that have great braking performance and don't kill your paint.

Z K wrote

There are plenty of pads that will get you "race" braking torque and heat levels that do not have paint eating brake dust. All the Carbotech XP pads, Raybestos ST-43 and Project Mu Club Racer pads come to mind. I am sure there are others as well.

Hawk pads use old technology... you don't need to settle for choosing between subpar braking or paint eating dust. There are plenty of pads that have great braking performance and don't kill your paint.

I've been looking at the Project Mu Club Racer pads as well, are the considered pure race pads or in the middle? How do they perform on the streets? I need to drive my car to the track.

Is the Project Mu Club Racer pads the same as Project Mu Club Racer pads RC09 or are they two diff pads?

I swap my pads at the track and it takes me about 30-40 minutes to jack up, remove stock wheels, swap brake pads, and put on traxk wheels at all four corners with hand tools. Really easy. But i get lazy and only put my stock wheels back on when i leave. Plus dont want to wait for everything to cool down so i just leave the track pads on for an additional 1-2 weeks depending on how annoyed i get with the squeal

But for your first time, do it at home a day prior to the track day. For me, the first time took me about an hour and a half and getting dirty everywhere including my face trying to figure out where all the bolts were, how to align them properly, how to remove the clip, making SURE the calipers were bolted in place (aligning the caliper pins can get tricky the first time but you can hear the pin clicking into place when pressing in by hand first), etc.

Now its a breeze, i dont have to look behind the caliper and not even my forearms get dirty anymore

Here is a more useful link i used and from a member here:

DD GT3 RD wrote

Doesn't matter. I do it all the time. You'll just get annoyed of the squealing

this.

They squeal like a couple of freight trains for me. I have just the rears. I get them from amazon for the rears, great for last min track days. Just have to be mindful of them and build up to higher speeds/later braking throughout the day.