Do I need to get car on 4 jackstands for oil change?

BMW changed its contract to Shell. It’s that scientific. If it changed to Mobil, then Mobil would be recommended. But Shell probably paid BMW the most.

Guys! What kind of oil should I run?

Also what’s better DCT or 6MT?

Given the almost negligible difference in the specs between Castrol and Shell 10W-60 (https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1439688), it must come down to the latest contract agreement between BMW and Shell, as pbonsalb said.
My hood from my '12 still shows "Castrol recommended".

My routine:

1) drive it up on race ramps up front
2) jack up the rear from central jacking point.
3) insert jackstands on L/R rear - this gets it off the ground fairly level
4) loosen oil filter cap
5) drain from bottom for approx 45 mins
6) replace drain plugs and crush washers
7) add 8.5 quarts
8) replace oil filter & gaskets
9) raise from rear central point, remove rear jackstands
10) drive car off ramps

Really straight forward and not that tedious at all.

how many of you obsessed about having a perfectly level car when draining siphon all the oil out of the filter housing?

I don't really want to spend another $100 to buy the jacks, is it necessary?







Bluestacks Kodi Lucky Patcher

nateboussad wrote

I don't really want to spend another $100 to buy the jacks, is it necessary?

You can do it on ramps if you insist. Since there's no dipstick, you can't vacuum it out from the top.

nobody is falling for my trap.

Love this thread. Great to know I am part of a community that may be more OCD than I am.

My process:

Quickjack car
Remove oil fill cap
Drain oil
Remove filter
Vacuum out filter assembly
Replace pan plugs
Fill with 8.8L oil (last L goes in via filter assembly)
Replace filter and gaskets
Drop car
Go

Not that worried about a little remaining oil in the engine when it takes 8.8L to fill it. The solution to pollution is dilution.

Cheers,

roastbeef wrote

its ok to have a slight tilt. to combat this, i backed my car into the driveway (slight downward slope) and drove forward up on race ramps. the car wasn't perfectly level, but as level as it was going to get for convenience's sake.

if you aren't siphoning all of the oil out of the filter housing, you should be more concerned with that rather than the nominal amount of oil left in the pans from not being exactly level.

I do the exact same thing with ramps! Front wheels on ramps on the driveway (downward slope) and rear tires on the edge of garage floor which is straight. This pretty much makes me level with front up for work. The oil draining is what takes 90% of the time.

I always do oil changes on ramps only and have never gotten the over filled message.

The car is in a good position with the front elevate, I think

I use ramps for the rear and jack stands for the front - works great, level, and generally pretty quick.

With both holes open, enough for me.

Unfortunately you may have to take a six week engineering course overseas to first understand fluid dynamics, coefficient of friction as well as what the COS function does on your TI83 scientific calculator. When you complete the above lessons you'll need to pick up a four post lift, various plumb bobs and an assortment of calibrated levels that met USA regulations. Don't forget to take the gravitational pull caused by the microscopic magnetic particulates within the oil. Position the nose of car northwest at the appropriate latitude and source the sharpest chainsaw money can buy. Now when you have the all the knowledge and tools of the sharpest philosopher on earth, throw it all away and do exactly as follows.

Jack the car, drain the oil, refill the oil and drive it until you see the readout level on your instrument cluster. Adjust oil level accordingly and your done.

Boom goes the dynamite.

Don't forget to drop your oil cooler and let that drain out overnight too..

Always change engine oil with the car upside down for maximum drainage

I just spin my rod bearings and shoot rods out of the block to drain from every possible nook and cranny. Usually gets all of the old oil out for me.

roastbeef wrote

its ok to have a slight tilt. to combat this, i backed my car into the driveway (slight downward slope) and drove forward up on race ramps. the car wasn't perfectly level, but as level as it was going to get for convenience's sake.

if you aren't siphoning all of the oil out of the filter housing, you should be more concerned with that rather than the nominal amount of oil left in the pans from not being exactly level.

100% on this except you forgot to refill the oil filter housing with clean oil after replacing the filter. I usually fill as much as I can before it falls out the front and then replace cover. Helps avoid that dry slurpe vanos noise on first start.

TheUnscented wrote

drivetolive wrote

It's definitely not mandatory, however it is preferential.

Assuming you only have two jack stands (which I do), the best method I've found is:
1) Slip a jack under the center jack point to put the front half on jack stands.
2) Drain the oil until it's starting to drip.
3) Use your jack under one of the rear jack points to raise and level the car. The chassis is stiff enough that jacking it from one side will level it in the air, however feel free to jack the opposite side as well using the jack point.

For what it's worth, when only the front is raised during an oil change on these cars, I've found that leveling it results in a minuscule amount of additional oil being drained (best guess is 1/4 - 1/2 of a quart).

Speaking of, what's a good rear central jacking point?

Rear jacking point is rear differential housing (#3 in photo), the dark steel part. DO NOT jack up using the silverfish aluminum finned heat sink. Having trouble uploading photo. Here is link to jackpoints: https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=0BA0A0165DE9C6DFDD3FFBB897D0091982F5C054&thid=OIP.HrYY7PC4zamkcCgdhDVcQwHaLH&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi1055.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs503%2Fdelirium330%2FZHP%25202015%2FE92%2520M3%2520Jack%2520Points_zpsrhzo2tc4.jpg&exph=396&expw=264&q=e92+m3+jack+points&selectedindex=25&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6

As far as oil changes, presumably the sumps were designed for dealer oil changes on a level rack so I try to get as close to that as possible using the center jack points, then the four side points(#2 in photo) with jack stands. Changing oil in similar fashion to SFCM3---time consuming.

On a side note, I was at the dealer yesterday (BMW Store in Cincinnati) and they told me BMW is no longer recommending the Castrol 12064 Edge SuperCar 10W-60 oil anymore. Anyone know anything about this?

TheUnscented wrote

drivetolive wrote

It's definitely not mandatory, however it is preferential.

Assuming you only have two jack stands (which I do), the best method I've found is:
1) Slip a jack under the center jack point to put the front half on jack stands.
2) Drain the oil until it's starting to drip.
3) Use your jack under one of the rear jack points to raise and level the car. The chassis is stiff enough that jacking it from one side will level it in the air, however feel free to jack the opposite side as well using the jack point.

For what it's worth, when only the front is raised during an oil change on these cars, I've found that leveling it results in a minuscule amount of additional oil being drained (best guess is 1/4 - 1/2 of a quart).

Speaking of, what's a good rear central jacking point?

Rear jacking point is rear differential housing (#3 in photo), the dark steel part. DO NOT jack up using the silverfish aluminum finned heat sink. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=0BA0A0165DE9C6DFDD3FFBB897D0091982F5C054&thid=OIP.HrYY7PC4zamkcCgdhDVcQwHaLH&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi1055.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs503%2Fdelirium330%2FZHP%25202015%2FE92%2520M3%2520Jack%2520Points_zpsrhzo2tc4.jpg&exph=396&expw=264&q=e92+m3+jack+points&selectedindex=25&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6 Having trouble uploading photo. Here is link to jackpoints: https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=0BA0A0165DE9C6DFDD3FFBB897D0091982F5C054&thid=OIP.HrYY7PC4zamkcCgdhDVcQwHaLH&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi1055.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs503%2Fdelirium330%2FZHP%25202015%2FE92%2520M3%2520Jack%2520Points_zpsrhzo2tc4.jpg&exph=396&expw=264&q=e92+m3+jack+points&selectedindex=25&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6

As far as oil changes, presumably the sumps were designed for dealer oil changes on a level rack so I try to get as close to that as possible using the center jack points, then the four side points(#2 in photo) with jack stands. Changing oil in similar fashion to SFCM3---time consuming.

On a side note, I was at the dealer yesterday (BMW Store in Cincinnati) and they told me BMW is no longer recommending the Castrol 12064 Edge SuperCar 10W-60 oil anymore. Anyone know anything about this?

Interesting. That's my dealership but I do my own oil changes. Did they mention what they now recommend?

flint wrote

Interesting. That's my dealership but I do my own oil changes. Did they mention what they now recommend?

Probably the twin power turbo, or is it twin turbo power, or power turbo twins?

My routine is ordering kit from FCP Euro,

when shipment arrives...

Get a 6 pack of beer...

Drive to my Buddys shop..

Hand him the 6 pack...

Borrow his lift for a quick oil change...following everyones steps from previous post.