Squishy brake pedal and sound after flush

So i did a brake flush , my first time using the pump that goes to the master cylinder that way i dont have use a person to step on the brakes. After i bled the car i mistakenly took off the pump from the master cylinder which still had pressure and some brake fluid came flying out and was to the top overfilled. I cleaned it and put the cap on. Once i turn the car on the brake pedal felt squish and made a sound when i press on the brakes rapidly. Uploaded a video and will go on another test drive. Will be doing under flush when brake fluid comes in but i really hope it not the brake booster sensor i heard its sensitive to brake fluid if it gets on it. No codes yet just tire pressure. Heres a uploaded video.

If it overfloat and fluid got down below the tank...sounds like the sensor took a hit. I also f@kked up and spilled, washed some water down the same way the fluid went, let it dry till next day and was luckily fine. Never started though with the hope the sensor would stand the fluid better without voltage applied.

Good luck!

Edit: might be worth checking this fuse out first mate: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1338052&page=2

Thank you for the input got a used sensor that im going to try tomm did 2 more flushes and nothing the same thing cant wait to try this. This is so head scratching.

Almost certainly bad brake vacuum sensor, damaged by fluid spill. The early symptoms of a bad brake vac sensor is an over active brake vacuum pump (the noise you're hearing). In another week or so it will give u codes and limp mode.

Its been on jackstands the whole time let me change the sensor than. The fuses are good. I notice even when i do the 2 person method nothing barley comes out only when using the power flush pump on the master cylinder . I found this as well idk if it will help

Had no idea it was right under the master cylinder i thought it was by the vacum pump and took the fender lining off lol this should be easier than i thought hope it works after replacing 🙏🏼

If the pedal isn't firm, you likely need to bleed the dsc pump using ista/INPA or similar tool.

The pedal isnt firm when the car is on only when off im going to do that as well just in case

Update i changed the sensor and its still doing the same thing. I got it used from a repeatable seller off ebay for 50. Gona put the wheels back and drive and see what codes come on during the end of the week until my wire comes to plug my laptop to do the abs flush

I would think that maybe you introduced air into the system. Perhaps when you took off the power bleeder wrong it introduced fine bubbles into the system. I did that with my dad's truck and had to redo the whole bleed. I would also check for any small leaks where all the lines meet the rubber hoses. It is possible that a rubber brake line is beginning to fail. I upgraded mine to stainless steel lines.

I changed all my brake line to ss lines. I hooked my scanner and its says im getting 84 percent pressure on my brakes when i hit the brake pedal

I did 3 brake flushes using the power bleeder and the 2 person way as well. Im gona do the abs flush once i get the wire for the laptop and after if it still has issues gona take it to a mechanic

Just got back from a ride drove about 20 miles did the brake bed in for the hawk pads . They dont stop at a dime. Really curious to see if the abs/dsc flush will give me close to 100 brake pressure i hooked my scanner and in the video you can see if i press down normal its around 75 brake pressure to get to 80ish requires more effort than 90 requires more and to get to 100 i have to use all my leg power.

i did the inpa dsc flush. first time i did it the pedal was the exact same thing. So i did it one more time and now i have a DSC MALFUNCTION LIGHT WITH ERROR CODE 5DD0. I just got a new one installed by the delaership in January. i have no clue how this happen, i did one more inpa dsc flush and same thing . I clear the code and it comes right back up. Also displays DBC MALFUNCTION (dynmaic brake control) I was riding my car all week without these issues and because i really wanted a hard brake pedal feel tried the inpa as a last ditch effort before going to a professional. now im really worried i caused more harm. any input will help i dont know if i should go back to the dealership and play dumb and said isnt this under warranty if it is indeed faulty again. any. input will help i regret doing the ss brake lines only reason why i did the flush to begin with.

one more note the first time i did the inpa flush no light came on, it was after i did the second one.

Try running this DSC Updated, help recalibrating

Do you think i should do this after going to dealer on weds if they say we wont fix it or replace it , than go this route.

I would just try to calibrate it before you go to the dealer given its quick. Which Hawk pads did you buy? If you have bled the system and the air is gone then its either your pads nothing having enough initial bite, poor bedding, and something you have a physical hardware issues (caliper, master cylinder, what have you).

If have hawk HPS or ceramic they don't have great initial bite. If they only thing you changed is the brake lines and brakes feel worse than before then you still have air in the lines. You can gently tap the caliper with a mallot as you're bleeding to loosen up any air bubbles in it.

It was the hps ones. Also when you mean calibrate its not the a bleeding procedure like i did in inpa correct? At this point im just trying to get the light off and bring it someone ti diagnosis my brake issue. I tried over 4 bleeds did the inpa flush and nothing. I need a professional. Will read the link now to get better understanding of the calibration

Open INPA - choose you car - chassis in Script selection - Dynamic Stability control - <F6> (Ansteuern) - <F8> ( Condition Based service (CBS) ) - then reset both (<F1> CBS Reset VA, and <F2> CBS Reset HA ) - all done

You may also need to run <F1><F2>and <F3> under Ansteuern menu
Once all is done, just drive the car a short distance, and it should be fine .

My INPA is in German, so I don`t know the english names for everything


Just read this from one of the users , going try this when i get home from work. Thank God for google translate my inpa in german tried many times to get it in english cant do it .

Here's another thread that's easier to follow: https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/threads/bmw-dsc-abs-pump-recoding-calibrating-fitting.327738/

i was scared to do it because i kept thinking my dsc module was done and was scared of the dealership seeing i messed with it via programming since i just bought it in January. When they told me its fine and had to just get reprogrammed i felt like i should of gave it a try and would of saved me the 180 i spent at the dealership. if it was a old dsc i would of def gave it a try and going forward in the future will thanks for the help tut4u2. i went to the dealership and the said my right tire sensor wire broke off the sensor module they wanted 300 to fix now looking on the forums to solve that issue.