Cluster temp gauge not matching live data

I have noticed recently that my temp needle seems to show over 100 more often than it used to. To check, I logged it with Carly. The photos are attached. It seems that the needle is not matching the data. This seems odd. Anyone have any ideas about this?

Cheers,

its oil temperature. is oil temperature defined as "motor temperature" in carly?

roastbeef wrote

its oil temperature. is oil temperature defined as "motor temperature" in carly?

No idea. Carly does not have an "oil temperature" data point.

So odd.

On my gauges coolant is never hotter than oil temp. My guess is that motor temp isn't your oil temp.

SAMM3Y wrote

On my gauges coolant is never hotter than oil temp. My guess is that motor temp isn't your oil temp.

Is there a way to poll oil temp using INPA or ISTA? Unfortunately oil temp is not an OBD variable that is required... The most useful number and it is not available.

It would be nice to know if the oil temp reading is accurate. If it is, I am unsure why my car suddenly seems to be running on the hot side of 100C. No where near a worrying temperature but why the change? Is there anything in the oil system that can fail and cause hotter running temperatures? Pretty sure my oil cooler is clean but I will check that too.

Cheers,

Scharbag wrote

I have noticed recently that my temp needle seems to show over 100 more often than it used to. To check, I logged it with Carly. The photos are attached. It seems that the needle is not matching the data. This seems odd. Anyone have any ideas about this?

Cheers,

I thought it's been said on here the needle a combination of oil and coolant? However, I use my Solo connected through CAN to pull both coolant and oil temps. The needle is pretty consistent with the oil temp, definitely something to follow up on.

Sorry can't be more helpful 🤷🏻*♂️.

Same same as Dr Lane. No idea on ISTA.. my coding skills only go as far as BimmerGeeks allows me.

DRLane wrote

I thought it's been said on here the needle a combination of oil and coolant? However, I use my Solo connected through CAN to pull both coolant and oil temps. The needle is pretty consistent with the oil temp, definitely something to follow up on.

Sorry can't be more helpful 🤷🏻*♂️.

Thanks for the help. I will do some digging. I wonder if the oil sending unit in the pan took a dump again... I do see the needle wiggling a little bit.

Cheers,

Carly live data will often give you junk values. Whenever I look at freeze frame data for a code, it'll tell me it happened either a million kilometers from now or some absurd negative number.

Don't trust those numbers.

Can't speak to the electronic readings, but a sudden and consistent jump in your oil temp readings could be the t-stat in the oil module sticking. Another post recently talked about this and replacing the t-stat fixed the problem. In their case the oil cooler was not getting hot after the engine was fully warmed up and that led to the t-stat. Might be something to look at. GL!

Are you seeing warmer weather recently, compared to before?

AzRiz wrote

Are you seeing warmer weather recently, compared to before?

Not really. 24C is not that hot.

tbuck wrote

Can't speak to the electronic readings, but a sudden and consistent jump in your oil temp readings could be the t-stat in the oil module sticking. Another post recently talked about this and replacing the t-stat fixed the problem. In their case the oil cooler was not getting hot after the engine was fully warmed up and that led to the t-stat. Might be something to look at. GL!

Sure hope not - I will check my oil cooler. It is not super duper hot like RomanK reported in his thread. I do not want to have to change the oil filter assembly...

Scharbag wrote

Sure hope not - I will check my oil cooler. It is not super duper hot like RomanK reported in his thread. I do not want to have to change the oil filter assembly...

You don't have to, you can just change out the t-stat.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1831063

Scharbag wrote

I have noticed recently that my temp needle seems to show over 100 more often than it used to. To check, I logged it with Carly. The photos are attached. It seems that the needle is not matching the data. This seems odd. Anyone have any ideas about this?

Cheers,

I have Protool and hooked it up to my car today to compare my temps to yours. My gauge typically sits at 210 (100) when driving easy and about where yours is now after a few redline pulls in 85 F (29 C) degree weather. My coolant temps stayed at 191 F (88 C) but my oil temp (Protool has that) went from 210 F (99 C) to 220 F (104 C) but never got hotter than that and would immediately cool down to 214 F (101 C) until I had another redline pull. I don't think the needle is SUPER accurate. It's pretty good for general knowledge but not digital gauge accurate. I bet this is normal. My baseline temps crept up a bit like yours and I wonder if that is a sign the coolant might need changed. It is still well within normal range though.

Scharbag wrote

Sure hope not - I will check my oil cooler. It is not super duper hot like RomanK reported in his thread. I do not want to have to change the oil filter assembly...

The cluster needle is buffered meaning it doesn’t move to reflect a degree by degree change altho it is accurate. I see Oil temps on my steering wheel and it’s more or less what the gauge cluster shows.

If your cooler is not hot you should prepare to do the thermostat on the oil filter housing. I just Did mine the other day, my car used to run warm like yours even with full cooling but my cooler only half of it would be hot.

amrazM wrote

The cluster needle is buffered meaning it doesn’t move to reflect a degree by degree change altho it is accurate. I see Oil temps on my steering wheel and it’s more or less what the gauge cluster shows.

If your cooler is not hot you should prepare to do the thermostat on the oil filter housing. I just Did mine the other day, my car used to run warm like yours even with full cooling but my cooler only half of it would be hot.

It looks tight in there to replace the thermostat - I assume you have to remove the oil filter assembly?

Also, what did you replace the thermostat with?

I will also check my oil cooler with an IR probe to verify oil is being routed there.

Scharbag wrote

It looks tight in there to replace the thermostat - I assume you have to remove the oil filter assembly?

Also, what did you replace the thermostat with?

you have to remove the oil filter housing entirely, its absolutely not possible to do it on the car.

bimmerworld sells a oil thermostat bypass.

amrazM wrote

you have to remove the oil filter housing entirely, its absolutely not possible to do it on the car.

bimmerworld sells a oil thermostat bypass.

Thank you for the information. I live where the car will never be driven when it is below freezing and typically it is above 10C. It should be fine to drive with the bypass in place right? Just going to take a bit more time to warm up the oil I suppose.

I will order parts. Ballpark how long does the oil filter assembly take to R&R?

Cheers,

Btw on my Carly "Motor Temperature" is coolant - like yours as it seems Scharbag - while oil temp is "Output value for motoroeltemperature-LoCan" (actual Coolant parameter always showed crap).

The gauge and Carly always matched very well in my case.

88C btw is a tad hot for the coolant (should be 79C pretty much on spot assuming air flow), guess stop/go traffic when you took the measure?

I'd personaly would trust the OBD/Carly over the gauge.

Cheers

The S65 engine in the E90/E92/E93 M3 has an internal thermostat that limits the amount of oil that flows into the cooler, even when warm! This thermostat is closed when the engine is cold so that the oil warms up quicker. But even at operating temp the thermostat does not open all the way! Or worse, can be stuck closed. E9X M3 owners who have experienced high oil temps at the track often don't have an explanation or solution - until now.

This Oil Cooler Diverter Valve quickly remedies this issue by making the cooler full-flow. It diverts all oil through the cooler and lines for maximum cooling strategy. This will typically bring down stubborn oil temps 30+ degrees on tracked engines with the stock cooler. Once the housing is removed this is a quick 5 minute install into the factory S65 oil filter housing. This is not recommended for street cars without the addition of a performance inline thermostat. Drive conservatively and allow extra time for the oil to reach optimal temp (>150 degrees).

Includes diverter valve and installation instructions. The oil filter housing does not need to be removed from the engine, however access requires removing several items from the front of the engine - belt, fan, and power steering pump. This also provides a good opportunity for checking the oil filter housing seal for leaks.

Seems doable in the car... But is it really an issue to not have the performance T-Stat? And where does one get this unicorn inline t-stat?

Cheers,