calintexas wroteYes. I think that's the one I ran.Ok, North end of San Francisco Bay between Novato and Vallejo?
You were on the dark layout?
8.2KVIEWS
32REPLIES
0APPRECIATES
07-09-2011LAST POST
Old thread, but OP, will this help you at all? There was some great advice and information in this thread, and I really learned a lot from it when I first read it a while back.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389198
From Koni Racing:
Setting both Front shocks Firmer for Rebound will tighten the car up some.
Setting both Rear shocks Firmer will loosen the car up some.
Additional Tips
Adjust only enough rebound into each shock absorber to eliminate the undesirable characteristic. Adjusting too much rebound may mask a handling problem of another sort.
Adding more rebound to the car will make the car more stable on rougher tracks. On Dirt cars, adding Rebound to the Right Rear will make the car more stable when it slides into the cushion.
Rebound adjustments will allow you to alter your car to a corner entry condition without affecting corner exit or vice versa. Rebound controls the sprung weight of the chassis or weight transfer while Compression damping affects the unsprung weight of the chassis or the tire contact to the racing surface.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389198
From Koni Racing:
Setting both Front shocks Firmer for Rebound will tighten the car up some.
Setting both Rear shocks Firmer will loosen the car up some.
Additional Tips
Adjust only enough rebound into each shock absorber to eliminate the undesirable characteristic. Adjusting too much rebound may mask a handling problem of another sort.
Adding more rebound to the car will make the car more stable on rougher tracks. On Dirt cars, adding Rebound to the Right Rear will make the car more stable when it slides into the cushion.
Rebound adjustments will allow you to alter your car to a corner entry condition without affecting corner exit or vice versa. Rebound controls the sprung weight of the chassis or weight transfer while Compression damping affects the unsprung weight of the chassis or the tire contact to the racing surface.
LateBraking wroteThanks buddy, that's lots of good info! I didn't find that thread, but I did use Koni Road Racing/Autocross Coilover guide book. I have that in my iBooks all the time.Old thread, but OP, will this help you at all? There was some great advice and information in this thread, and I really learned a lot from it when I first read it a while back.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389198
From Koni Racing:
Setting both Front shocks Firmer for Rebound will tighten the car up some.
Setting both Rear shocks Firmer will loosen the car up some.
Additional Tips
Adjust only enough rebound into each shock absorber to eliminate the undesirable characteristic. Adjusting too much rebound may mask a handling problem of another sort.
Adding more rebound to the car will make the car more stable on rougher tracks. On Dirt cars, adding Rebound to the Right Rear will make the car more stable when it slides into the cushion.
Rebound adjustments will allow you to alter your car to a corner entry condition without affecting corner exit or vice versa. Rebound controls the sprung weight of the chassis or weight transfer while Compression damping affects the unsprung weight of the chassis or the tire contact to the racing surface.
I think the issue with my car is a bit different than adjusting compression and rebound. We played with the V3 for 2 track days at Infineon and Buttonwillow. I guess the problem with the bouncy rear end might be either caused by lowering too much or springs aren't attached to the shocks. Many members in the thread have mentioned it might be too low earlier in the thread. Again, I'm not 100% sure, I'm no expert. Anyways, I just dropped off my car at the shop. I'll have the front's raised by 1/3" and the rear's by 1/2", then set toe's at 1/16", lastly, -2.0 front's and -1.4 rear's on camber setting. After two track days, I know pretty much where to set the compression and rebound at, I'll report back after next track day whether I get the "bouncy" thing solved. Thanks again for all the help guys.
LateBraking, hope to see you at next track day.
I will bet the car is to low and bouncing off the bumpstops.
To accurately diagnose whether your rear suspension is riding on bump stops, I would recommend the following in order to determine how much suspension travel you have before making contact with the bump stop.
1. lift up your car (at least the rear wheels should both be off the ground)
2. push down the rear bump stop/dust cap all the way until it touches the top of the damper
3. lower your car slowly, and rock your car back and forth
4. lift your car up again and measure the gap between the shaft top and bump stop
5. finally, based on the spring rate and suspension geometry one can estimate how much travel is used in a typical corner on your car... this can then be compared to your measurement
1. lift up your car (at least the rear wheels should both be off the ground)
2. push down the rear bump stop/dust cap all the way until it touches the top of the damper
3. lower your car slowly, and rock your car back and forth
4. lift your car up again and measure the gap between the shaft top and bump stop
5. finally, based on the spring rate and suspension geometry one can estimate how much travel is used in a typical corner on your car... this can then be compared to your measurement
My $.02 on the guys getting on the Op's case...
You think F1 or Le Mans drivers have a clue as to how the suspension is set up in their cars? Or any real race team for that matter?
The reason you have a team of guys (or a shop in most people's case) setup your suspension is because they have people that know this stuff in and out.
I know pro drivers that don't know a thing about their suspension setup and I know guys that know everything about their setup. One doesn't necessarily make you a better or worse driver.
I think some of the guys on here are just getting into a dick measuring contest. Good for you... This is a forum where some of us go to get help and useful suggestions, not BS answers that don't matter especially when the suspension in question is already purchased anyways.
You think F1 or Le Mans drivers have a clue as to how the suspension is set up in their cars? Or any real race team for that matter?
The reason you have a team of guys (or a shop in most people's case) setup your suspension is because they have people that know this stuff in and out.
I know pro drivers that don't know a thing about their suspension setup and I know guys that know everything about their setup. One doesn't necessarily make you a better or worse driver.
I think some of the guys on here are just getting into a dick measuring contest. Good for you... This is a forum where some of us go to get help and useful suggestions, not BS answers that don't matter especially when the suspension in question is already purchased anyways.
Gents, if we are going to have a lap time discussion, I am going to create another thread for it. Thanks.
Here it is: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315097
Here it is: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315097
MNm3 wrotePlease don't confuse me with logic and clarity.My $.02 on the guys getting on the Op's case...
You think F1 or Le Mans drivers have a clue as to how the suspension is set up in their cars? Or any real race team for that matter?
The reason you have a team of guys (or a shop in most people's case) setup your suspension is because they have people that know this stuff in and out.
I know pro drivers that don't know a thing about their suspension setup and I know guys that know everything about their setup. One doesn't necessarily make you a better or worse driver.
I think some of the guys on here are just getting into a dick measuring contest. Good for you... This is a forum where some of us go to get help and useful suggestions, not BS answers that don't matter especially when the suspension in question is already purchased anyways.
MNm3 wroteGood post. Way to stick it to those two dudes who are apparently expert drivers and suspension tuners.My $.02 on the guys getting on the Op's case...
You think F1 or Le Mans drivers have a clue as to how the suspension is set up in their cars? Or any real race team for that matter?
The reason you have a team of guys (or a shop in most people's case) setup your suspension is because they have people that know this stuff in and out.
I know pro drivers that don't know a thing about their suspension setup and I know guys that know everything about their setup. One doesn't necessarily make you a better or worse driver.
I think some of the guys on here are just getting into a dick measuring contest. Good for you... This is a forum where some of us go to get help and useful suggestions, not BS answers that don't matter especially when the suspension in question is already purchased anyways.
Hi Ricky
Sorry to revive an old thread but I was curious if you found the solution that produced good results for Buttonwillow. I know you are on a different setup now but did raising the rear ride height help? Just curious because I'm setting the car up now for Buttonwillow tomorrow.
Thanks,
Royce M
Sorry to revive an old thread but I was curious if you found the solution that produced good results for Buttonwillow. I know you are on a different setup now but did raising the rear ride height help? Just curious because I'm setting the car up now for Buttonwillow tomorrow.
Thanks,
Royce M
Hi Royce,
I wasn't able to test out my set up at Buttonwillow last weekend with BMWCCA. Because they wouldn't allow me to go over 80 MPG there. That's why I haven't updated the thread.
I'm about 80% sure it was alignment issue. Rear's might not had enough camber and toe in. Because after I installed the Moton CS's and re-aligned, everything was fine at Big Willow.
I'll update the thread once I bring the car back to Buttonwillow again.
Ricky
I wasn't able to test out my set up at Buttonwillow last weekend with BMWCCA. Because they wouldn't allow me to go over 80 MPG there. That's why I haven't updated the thread.
I'm about 80% sure it was alignment issue. Rear's might not had enough camber and toe in. Because after I installed the Moton CS's and re-aligned, everything was fine at Big Willow.
I'll update the thread once I bring the car back to Buttonwillow again.
Ricky
