Firearms

Killed by Death wrote

iX nOOky wrote

It seems like the great ammo shortage of 2026 is kind of a dud. Not much issue getting what I need lately, except for maybe Blazer brass 124gr which I am buying less of anyway. I'm trying to move to Winchester white box due to the Blazer not-for-ported-barrels-or-suppressors issue which hasn't really affected me yet.

I actually feel like I have enough ammunition these days, except maybe 12 gauge. I also haven't had the itch to buy anything new lately, I have enough stuff to keep clean and play with right now I guess. Thinking about getting a nicer auto knife just for the heck of it, because we can in my state. I daily carry a Swiss Army knife. It's not easy to whip out and slash a throat or a piece of cord when seconds matter

Blazer not for ported barrels? I only have 1 ported 9mm but never heard of this.

7.62x39 still seems impossible to find due to Russia v Ukraine war

I took an image off the back of a box of 124gr. I've not had an issue, but it is there.

Killed by Death wrote

Donut Lord wrote

Damn lol I thought as long as it is 89 degree angle its legal? lol

legal? it depends on the day

You must be here in VA with me then lol

swcrow wrote

Killed by Death wrote

legal? it depends on the day

You must be here in VA with me then lol

Luckily, for now I'm in NC.

I have two FPCs (9mm and .22), a S&W Response, a Kuna, a PSA AK-V, and the 16” Daniel Defense PCC. They’re all great. The DD PCC is often passed up because of the price but you can frequently find it on sale for a significant discount. The build quality is superb and it’s extremely soft shooting, especially with 147g subs. The Kuna is great and deserves the hype. The 9mm FPC is a hidden and affordable gem. With my Mojave 9, the only thing I hear when shooting is the bolt move. It’s been 100% reliable and is accurate as can be.

iX nOOky wrote

I took an image off the back of a box of 124gr. I've not had an issue, but it is there.

It’s because Blazer (and some other brands like MaxxTech) use electrochemially plated bullets. The copper coating is extremely thin. It can chip going through ports and you’ll get spalling. Shoot a target up close and you’ll see little specs of the jacketing hitting the target. The issue is it can spall in many directions and that’s not safe.

DocOfTheDead wrote

iX nOOky wrote

I took an image off the back of a box of 124gr. I've not had an issue, but it is there.

It’s because Blazer (and some other brands like MaxxTech) use electrochemially plated bullets. The copper coating is extremely thin. It can chip going through ports and you’ll get spalling. Shoot a target up close and you’ll see little specs of the jacketing hitting the target. The issue is it can spall in many directions and that’s not safe.

I bought a bunch of Blazer during Covid BS because it was all I could find. But I have plenty of other pistols to use it in.

So here's a question for the experts...

I've been shooting for a long time but am no expert and don't need to be (I have you guys). A few years ago I bought a Ruger .22 target, mostly because of ammo prices but also because I'm getting older and holding and firing a large pistol is tiring. However, I've noticed that it's incredibly inaccurate compared to my 9mm or .38. I usually shoot around 15 yards and can group my shots quite well with the 9 (92FS) or .38 (S&W 6") but the Ruger is all over the place.

I'm now wondering if it's a function of the lower load. I shoot cheap stuff I'll admit, as I'm not competing or anything. The 9mm is 115g whereas the .22 is 40g. Should I get a more powerful load in the .22 to make it more accurate, or is it a natural function of the caliber to be so spread out?

LuvMyE92 wrote

So here's a question for the experts...

I've been shooting for a long time but am no expert and don't need to be (I have you guys). A few years ago I bought a Ruger .22 target, mostly because of ammo prices but also because I'm getting older and holding and firing a large pistol is tiring. However, I've noticed that it's incredibly inaccurate compared to my 9mm or .38. I usually shoot around 15 yards and can group my shots quite well with the 9 (92FS) or .38 (S&W 6") but the Ruger is all over the place.

I'm now wondering if it's a function of the lower load. I shoot cheap stuff I'll admit, as I'm not competing or anything. The 9mm is 115g whereas the .22 is 40g. Should I get a more powerful load in the .22 to make it more accurate, or is it a natural function of the caliber to be so spread out?

Like you I am no expert. I do have experience shooting different calibers. In my experience my .22 handguns are as accurate or more so than my more powerful cartridges at up to 25 yards. Maybe more but I don't shoot handguns past that. Sometimes 22s are fussy about ammo used so trying alternatives might help. These are my 22s.

You didn't mention what type of shooting you are doing? Accuracy issues with run and gun can involve a different correction for accuracy than with static shooting. On ammo, if you're buying cheap ammo, then it is a good chance that it is sub sonic ammo and personally, I never touch the stuff. Too many issues for me with stovepiping but I'm involved with run and gun type competition.

Car-Addicted wrote

You didn't mention what type of shooting you are doing? Accuracy issues with run and gun can involve a different correction for accuracy than with static shooting. On ammo, if you're buying cheap ammo, then it is a good chance that it is sub sonic ammo and personally, I never touch the stuff. Too many issues for me with stovepiping but I'm involved with run and gun type competition.

I presume that this is in response to my post?

I shoot at defenseless paper targets on stands at an indoor range. I don't shoot subsonic because the pistol won't cycle properly with such a light load. I buy name brand (Winchester, Blazer, etc.) domestically made stuff, on the economy end of pricing.

My Walther P22 & H&R revolver shoot just fine. That is with rounds that are at least 60 years old; lead nose, no jacket.

LuvMyE92 wrote

Car-Addicted wrote

You didn't mention what type of shooting you are doing? Accuracy issues with run and gun can involve a different correction for accuracy than with static shooting. On ammo, if you're buying cheap ammo, then it is a good chance that it is sub sonic ammo and personally, I never touch the stuff. Too many issues for me with stovepiping but I'm involved with run and gun type competition.

I presume that this is in response to my post?

I shoot at defenseless paper targets on stands at an indoor range. I don't shoot subsonic because the pistol won't cycle properly with such a light load. I buy name brand (Winchester, Blazer, etc.) domestically made stuff, on the economy end of pricing.

Sorry static is not my cup of tea but the very reason you prefer the .22 over the 9mm may be the issue. My shooting club is mostly static shooters and their .22's are all custom grips and the pistols are quite heavy compared to my .22 for Steel Challenge. Good news is you have a great reason for heading to the range. I would try several ammo's as I went through several brands before I ended up with CCI Green Tag or CCI Mini MAG for higher velocity. On occasion I take a lesson to keep my shooting in line with my age.

Buy 8-10 boxes of various ammo, and try a quantity of each from the same distance and position you normally shoot, and use something to steady the pistol to maintain consistency. Don't try zeroing each type in, just pattern each brand, and see what your particular firearm likes. You may find it likes expensive stuff, and you may find something cheaper that it runs very well at. Someone may have already done this and put up a Youtube video so you have an idea what to start with. Good luck.

PSA has SCAR-P 5.56 on sale right now for $2k. Quite tempting, anyone already got one?

LuvMyE92 wrote

So here's a question for the experts...

I've been shooting for a long time but am no expert and don't need to be (I have you guys). A few years ago I bought a Ruger .22 target, mostly because of ammo prices but also because I'm getting older and holding and firing a large pistol is tiring. However, I've noticed that it's incredibly inaccurate compared to my 9mm or .38. I usually shoot around 15 yards and can group my shots quite well with the 9 (92FS) or .38 (S&W 6") but the Ruger is all over the place.

I'm now wondering if it's a function of the lower load. I shoot cheap stuff I'll admit, as I'm not competing or anything. The 9mm is 115g whereas the .22 is 40g. Should I get a more powerful load in the .22 to make it more accurate, or is it a natural function of the caliber to be so spread out?

As a sucker for a good .22LR range day… try a plethora of different ammos. Write it all out and keep track of not just the brand, but the weight, speed and bullet type. Do it from a rest to keep things on a level playing field.

I’d also give the Ruger a good full tear down, clean and lube.

My go-to ammos:
Plinking - CCI mini mags, New Republic
Suppressed - Winchester Super Suppressed
FRT - Federal AutoMatch
Malfunction clearing - Winchester XPert HV (all guns), CCI AR 22 (it’s waxy AF and doesn’t play well in my semi auto pistols)
In the mood to smell cat piss - Aguila (it produces ammonia when it combusts)

iX nOOky wrote

I took an image off the back of a box of 124gr. I've not had an issue, but it is there.

I’ve had some issues but specifically when shooting out of my dark forge wraith, not any other ports that I have. I wouldn’t say the issue is major but after a while there was a little copper build up on the forward side of the top ports. No issue with the v6 ports. Occasionally you get small bits of metal that hit you in the face. Nothing that would break skin, but you definitely want your safety squints.

I like Blazer, but I just don’t run it on the ported 2011s anymore

Went to the range yesterday and finally tested my 300 BLk setup with my Banish 30 suppressor. When people talk about getting gassed, I now really know what they mean. Glad the setup worked fine in cycling the subsonic rounds (200 grain) through. And no apparent baffle strikes. I confirmed alignment with an alignment rod prior to testing. Will probably tear down the setup to inspect the bolt and suppressor.

The setup was quiet but louder than I had expected. Probably due to the fact I'm running a 16" barrel. Will try the setup with the suppressor extension installed which adds a I think two or three more baffels but unforunately extends the length of the setup.

Both great shooters. Just waiting for Tactical Force to release the TLR-1 mounted gas pedal for us left-handed folks and I'll see if I can get some more controlled and faster splits.

Not entirely firearms related but it is ear pro. If any of you have an Axil GS Extreme 2.0 and have battery issues such as not being able to charge it or turn it on, I have a solution. Through searching I found a place that sells a battery to replace the original battery.

https://taninautoelectronix.com/product/replacement-battery-for-axil-gs-extreme-2-0-bluetooth-earbuds/?srsltid=AfmBOorUePMJJpJVthvx3SoQazGUdoj4-MNQNexfA4SGkUx5XkjP3tA0

I did some searching online to see if anyone has had this issue. And it appears to be pretty common for the GS Extreme 2.0 to have the battery take a dump. Some people report a dead headset at just over a year. Mine lasted a while until I didn't realize I had the mic turned on. It drained the battery to zero and that's what killed the battery. People reported that they contacted Axil and got no support if it was out of warranty. Kind of crap customer service. At least they could have repair service or offer up some sort of discount towards purchasing the newer GS Extreme 3.0. Oh well. Glad I was able to get mine working after spending $37 on the new battery.

Y’all read up on this?

Guy is a proper legend. 5.7!!!!

The Guvna wrote

Guy is a proper legend. 5.7!!!!

I was hoping for a Dirty Harry type with a .44 hand cannon