No throttle response after fillin gasg

For the last 2 weeks I have had no throttle response especially after filling the gas tank. So, I would turn the engine off and turn back on It would go for 10 seconds or sometimes minutes, but It comes back right after, then I have to turn back again. Before filling the gas this morning everything was ok besides the good old limp more I have because of the failed throttle body.

I know I have Bank 2 throttle acurator is dead and two actuators are n the way. I have had the limp mode for a long time and I would say the limp more is there %90 percent of the time. However I started having thisissue recently.

I am having issues with my D-CANcable or the ISTA+ on my computer. I cannot read the codes for some reason.

Could this be because my throttle actuators are getting even worse after all and sending the wrong fuel air mix or it is my fuel pressure pump sensor? The car starts fine. Maybe in the morning when the car is cold there is slight hesitation, but car starts in the first try. No stalling, no RPM jump up and down. I do not think it is ICV, but either throttle actuators or something to do with the fuel pump. Has anyone had this issue in the past?

Below is the video I recorded in the parking garage:

If the car stalls just after a fill up, your fuel tank breather valve is bad. If you're replacing the actuators the valve is under the plenum and is easily accessible while doing the actuators. See the DIY. Not sure about lack of throttle response after fill up.

How often have you been driving the car in limp mode? You stated a "long time" in your description. Limp mode is there to get you home without hurting the car; I can't imagine running the car in limp mode in the long term is healthy. Should probably park it and figure out what's going on, especially if it's not even responding to throttle inputs.

Like drrust says, fuel tank vent/breather valve under the plenum is usually the cause of issues after a fill-up. That was my case and it fixed it nicely.
DIY: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1273927

Also sounds like your throttle body actuators are toast if you're not getting any throttle response but I'm sure you figured that out already. They're not going to get any better. I imagine start-up and idle will be fine since you're not actuating the throttle bodies at that time and the fill-up issue does go away until the next fill up.

Since you have some on the way, you should change both the actuators and the fuel tank vent/breather valve at the same time since they're damn near beside each other. The valve seems like it's destined to fail anyway for most of us, it's only a matter of when. Get the Bosch 0280142464 since it's the same OE part at a fraction of the cost.

Tanks for all of your advice. Throttle actuators are on the way and will arrive either tomorrow ot Tuesday. I am not going to driver the car and goind to DIY it. While there I am going to check the breather valve you are saying. After the fill up there is no satlling or bouncy idele RPM. I think the actuators are toast big time.

Rober84m wrote

Tanks for all of your advice. Throttle actuators are on the way and will arrive either tomorrow ot Tuesday. I am not going to driver the car and goind to DIY it. While there I am going to check the breather valve you are saying. After the fill up there is no satlling or bouncy idele RPM. I think the actuators are toast big time.

Either way, once you learn how to remove the plenum it's easy enough to go back and change the valve if you don't do it on this round. Even if you don't have symptoms now, it'll be good preventative maintenance, but your actuators definitely take priority at this point. Spark plugs are good to do as well while the plenum is off to have more access, but I did mine with the plenum on so it's no biggie.

Good luck with the job and let us know how it goes!

Actuators were done yesterday. Took us about 3 hours to complete the job. I did not get any chance to open the old ones to see what kind of disaster is in there, but from the sound of it I am sure the gears were skipping. I could tell when I pushed the handle few times. There is a strong possiblity that the gears were chewed up big time and due to wrong air/fuel mix it was misfiring and causing a lot of vibration with low throttle response. The other day I experineced the same issue again in the middle of the road even though I did not go to the gas station. I went our for a 20 minute drive and no issues whatsoever. CEL was cleared today by itself, because of the next cycle, there was no need for resetting the codes even.

If I get another CEL with limp mode in the near future and if it has nothing to do with the throttle body then I will check the cylinder misfires and possibly replace the ignition coil depending on which cylinder I have got the misfire, but I am not there yet and I hope It will drive normal for a good while.

Now I have another concern which actually has been there since 2014 or 15. I have been driving this car for 10 years since brand new. The problem is when I am on a high gear with low RPM under load I have a slight rattling sound coming from the engine and it disappers in a second. When in high RPM and WOT I do not hear anything. Car feels good though. Actually, I have not replaced the spark plugs since I bought the car and It has almost 80,000kms. Anybody has experineced this metalic rattling sound when unders load in higher gear and low RPM? I do not know if it is somthing I should be concerned about .

I have been using Liqui Moly 10W60 since 2014. I wonder It has something to do with this oil or MAF sensor or something else?

I don't know about the rattle, maybe a loose heat shield but not changing the spark plugs in 10 years, 80k km

I agree, change the spark plugs! 30k miles/48K kilometers has been shown to be a good interval. 80K kms is pretty long already and ours cars respond very well to fresh plugs. Also I don't think there's a MAF meter. I believe we have a MAP (pressure) sensor and I don't even know where it is but it certainly isn't in the plenum. That sensor by the oil filter is a temp sensor.

MikeHawk7 wrote

I agree, change the spark plugs! 30k miles/48K kilometers has been shown to be a good interval. 80K kms is pretty long already and ours cars respond very well to fresh plugs. Also I don't think there's a MAF meter. I believe we have a MAP (pressure) sensor and I don't even know where it is but it certainly isn't in the plenum. That sensor by the oil filter is a temp sensor.

You're correct, and the MAP is accessed under the plenum. Add it to the list for plenum removal projects: throttle actuators, idle actuator, fuel tank breather, and the intake manifold pressure sensor (MAP).

DRLane wrote

You're correct, and the MAP is accessed under the plenum. Add it to the list for plenum removal projects: throttle actuators, idle actuator, fuel tank breather, and the intake manifold pressure sensor (MAP).

Where's the MAP sensor anyway? Is it something that would benefit from a cleaning like a MAF would?

MikeHawk7 wrote

DRLane wrote

You're correct, and the MAP is accessed under the plenum. Add it to the list for plenum removal projects: throttle actuators, idle actuator, fuel tank breather, and the intake manifold pressure sensor (MAP).

Where's the MAP sensor anyway? Is it something that would benefit from a cleaning like a MAF would?

See attached - It's facing the firewall, so on the backside.