Scammers

So I get a call yesterday from an 800 number. I don't pick it up initially cause I was on the shitter. And maybe it's just me but I feel like talking on the phone while taking a dump is just rude.

Anyway.... I later Google the number to see who called, and Google tells me it's from Chase bank... ok weird. A few moments later I get another call from the same number so I figure, if it's from Chase bank I should probably pick up.

I answer and it's someone saying they're calling from Chase security services about some suspicious activity on my credit card ending in xxxx. He then proceeds to read off the suspicious charge... and I let him know that I don't recognize the charge.

He then says it appears my credit card # has been compromised and that he'll deactivate my account and issue me a new card. He says for security purposes, he's going to text me a number and asks that I read him back the # - I get a text from Chase, and I proceed to read it back to him.

Fast forward to this morning, I check my credit card account online as I typically do on a daily basis, and I notice $6k worth of charges since that call from last night. I call Chase back to make sure that my card was deactivated, and the Chase rep says there's no record of Chase having spoken to me.

Turns out the number that was texted to me (and was texted from a Chase #) was to be able to add my credit card to Apple Pay.

Lesson learned. Hopefully this info is helpful to others. These scammers are getting pretty damn sophisticated.

wtwo3 wrote

So I get a call yesterday from an 800 number. I don't pick it up initially cause I was on the shitter. And maybe it's just me but I feel like talking on the phone while taking a dump is just rude.
.

100% agreed
Side note, that’s sucks. They can clone anything to look legit nowadays. The new thing apparently is scammer QR code’s that take you to bad places that look legit

Tommy-G wrote

100% agreed
Side note, that’s sucks. They can clone anything to look legit nowadays. The new thing apparently is scammer QR code’s that take you to bad places that look legit

Yeah it's wild. And I'm usually pretty good about snuffing out when something is a scam (except that one Nigerian prince, I still feel bad for the dude, I should have helped him hide his money). I'm just glad Chase reversed the charges on my account.

"Thanks for the call. I'm on the shitter, I will call you back in a few"

Then you get your bank statement, and call them direct. Since you initiated the call, there is no spoofing in between.

wtwo3 wrote

So I get a call yesterday from an 800 number. I don't pick it up initially cause I was on the shitter. And maybe it's just me but I feel like talking on the phone while taking a dump is just rude.

Anyway.... I later Google the number to see who called, and Google tells me it's from Chase bank... ok weird. A few moments later I get another call from the same number so I figure, if it's from Chase bank I should probably pick up.

I answer and it's someone saying they're calling from Chase security services about some suspicious activity on my credit card ending in xxxx. He then proceeds to read off the suspicious charge... and I let him know that I don't recognize the charge.

He then says it appears my credit card # has been compromised and that he'll deactivate my account and issue me a new card. He says for security purposes, he's going to text me a number and asks that I read him back the # - I get a text from Chase, and I proceed to read it back to him.

Fast forward to this morning, I check my credit card account online as I typically do on a daily basis, and I notice $6k worth of charges since that call from last night. I call Chase back to make sure that my card was deactivated, and the Chase rep says there's no record of Chase having spoken to me.

Turns out the number that was texted to me (and was texted from a Chase #) was to be able to add my credit card to Apple Pay.

Lesson learned. Hopefully this info is helpful to others. These scammers are getting pretty damn sophisticated.

"So I get a call yesterday from an 800 number. I don't pick it up initially cause I was on the shitter. And maybe it's just me but I feel like talking on the phone while taking a dump is just rude."

MsGoGoMoto wrote

"So I get a call yesterday from an 800 number. I don't pick it up initially cause I was on the shitter. And maybe it's just me but I feel like talking on the phone while taking a dump is just rude."

Where'd you find this pic of me?

wtwo3 wrote

MsGoGoMoto wrote

"So I get a call yesterday from an 800 number. I don't pick it up initially cause I was on the shitter. And maybe it's just me but I feel like talking on the phone while taking a dump is just rude."

Where'd you find this pic of me?

The only defense to preventing fraud, identify theft, phishing, skimming etc?

Be broke and a credit score of 100, lol

shoei wrote

The only defense to preventing fraud, identify theft, phishing, skimming etc?

Be broke and a credit score of 100, lol

Sabotage myself before the crooks do. Solid plan.

Sucks but lesson learned.

Thanks for sharing as this will probably help someone in this same situation.

To avoid the burden of analysing the crap they tell you, just don't validate yourself to/for anyone who (is contacting you and) hasn't validated him/herself to you first ("" ). No, you can't rely on the number they call from detected!

These days it's best to never talk on serious matters using an incoming call at all. It might even seem it's someone you know personally... Always call back, using the correct number to make sure.

By the way, it might be not the case yet, but it can be expected that "smart" phones' software will be able to implicitly redirect (substitute the target number of) the outgoing calls too. What's the oldest phone you can use (for your safety)?

Biometrics technologies (or their usage) don't look convincing/reliable/safe. Collecting your data of the kind and using it without your consent would be an absolute outrage! Note that pretty much anything you say can be used for your voice id,for your safety!

Thanks for the heads up. These scammers really tapped into something that many people would fall victim to. As a point of reference, PNC does this. I have received automated calls from PNC's fraud center stating there are questionable charges and to call them. I also have received emails from them to verify charges. Both the automated call and emails seem to me to be suspect but are authentic. But I always call into the call center when I receive these.

But with the verification, the PNC rep also sends a text message to your phone for you to read back the PIN for two factor authentication. The only difference is they won't ask for your phone number. They go off of the phone number they have in their system.

So it wasn't voice id related, it was a one time confirmation code really from the bank, initiated by the scammer and the bank sent the code without any hint what it was for.

Anyway, they do use voice id and I read news about scammers already trying to make you say the key word/phrase for them.

Couple of thoughts:

Go to your online banking and turn on alerts with a $1.00 threshhold - you’ll get a text every time there is a charge to the credit card or any form of withdrawal from your checking/savings accounts. The texts can be annoying but it is real easy to spot potential fraud, then call the bank.

Never link bank accounts, like with overdraft protection. If a thief gets into one, they can clean out all. Use online banking to transfer funds as needed, always initiated by you.

If you use a debit card, have it pull from an account that you keep a very small amount in (enough for the card use but an amount you can afford to lose), unless your bank allows a limit on debit card transaction size and number.

Check your bank accounts and credit card use daily. It is fast and easy online, and keeps you well informed.

Since somebody already resurrected this old thread, I thought I'd share a lil scamer story that most people don't think about. They make us take classes on scams at work, and I am pretty suspicious by nature, but they got me with this one.



Sign out of your old smart TV when you get rid of it!

We recently replaced our 85" Sony with another Sony 85" Sony Bravia. The old one had huge black burnt out spots all over it and was unwatchable

Bought the new one at Best Buy, they delivered, set it up and they took the old one away.

About 2 weeks later, Netflix required me sign into all of my TV's again. It was odd, but I didn't think much of it. Same with Hulu and a few others. Then, Apple TV was linked to my Amazon account. I didn't think much of that either, other than "hmm, that is convenient".

I started getting random Amazon rental receipts pop up, they were good movies and I don't monitor what my family wants to rent. Then a receipt came in while the only other person home was sitting next to me. That's when I started getting suspicious.

Turns out the Best Buys delivery guys sold/gave/kept my old broken Smart TV and it was set up in a town in PA near the Best Buy it came from after they took it away. That person probably could only get into Amazon (glad they didn't order any Amazon goods other than rent good TV shows/movies). While they were in Amazon, they signed up for Apple TV using my Amazon account.

All in all, the charges were under $50. I had to change my passwords for every account I have, which was worse to me than losing $50 to some scammer.

Lesson learned though, even if you think that Smart TV is broken, sign out of everything, or smash it before somebody sells/uses it

Man that's wild but confirms my decision not to connect any appliances to the internet. I use little chromecast like devices to run my TVs, I don't trust the TVs themselves.

wrickem wrote

Since somebody already resurrected this old thread, I thought I'd share a lil scamer story that most people don't think about. They make us take classes on scams at work, and I am pretty suspicious by nature, but they got me with this one.

Perform a factory reset to clear most, if not all, settings and data. Subsequently, eventually open settings on the reset device and, for settings configuration, select a foreign language using a completely different set of text signs, mostly uncommon for the region (for example Korean, Chinese, Japanese, etc.). Leave it up to the one who later accesses the electronic device to figure out how to change the settings language (if it happens to you: use Google Translate or some other translation app, to 'read' with your phone camera the settings for a language settings change).

If you trade in your car: delete all SATNAV stored data, Bluetooth data, etc. prior to leaving the car. BMW app used to be bad: previous owner could still 'follow' (lock/unlock, trace, etc.) the old car if the car wasn't deleted or reinstalled on the BMW app.

BBC reporter played along with a 'pig butchering scam' attempt.

Bottom line: every cent wired to the scammers is 99.9999% lost forever somewhere on (or under) the surface of the planet. The so-called "very profitable crypto investments" don't exist at all - those are simply deep pockets of scammers, trying to be lined by victims worldwide with 100% fake stories, fraudulent promises and fake investment status 'statistics'. And the scammers don't give a damn about the misery they cause for the victims - it's an utterly ruthless scam.

Artemis wrote

Perform a factory reset to clear most, if not all, settings and data. Subsequently, eventually open settings on the reset device and, for settings configuration, select a foreign language using a completely different set of text signs, mostly uncommon for the region (for example Korean, Chinese, Japanese, etc.). Leave it up to the one who later accesses the electronic device to figure out how to change the settings language (if it happens to you: use Google Translate or some other translation app, to 'read' with your phone camera the settings for a language settings change).

If you trade in your car: delete all SATNAV stored data, Bluetooth data, etc. prior to leaving the car. BMW app used to be bad: previous owner could still 'follow' (lock/unlock, trace, etc.) the old car if the car wasn't deleted or reinstalled on the BMW app.

Need to add in Homelink or any feature that allows you to open/close your garage door. During the mess with having my previous daily driver totaled by the at fault's insurance company, I had forgotten to factory default the Homelink mirror I had installed myself in that car. Fortunately, I remembered before the car got hauled off to salvage/auction.

During the purchase of my new daily driver, I mentioned this to my salesman. He immediately went into shock mode realizing that he hadn't cleared his Homelink setup before trading in his old car.

Great advice here, and for those with stories, thanks for sharing!

I'll add, if I may, that you really shouldn't use your Debit card for anything other than getting cash out of the ATM. If someone gets your card number, which apparently is quite easy to do these days, they can drain your account. Unlike a credit card, where you can dispute the charges and usually get the money back (you generally have to do it within 30 days) you have no such protection with the debit card.

@2000cs has great advice earlier to link the card to only one small balance account (I do this for PayPal, Venmo, etc.) but I prefer to simply not use it. Use a credit card, you have more protection and usually you get something back, be it a cash rebate, miles, whatever.

Also:

- the IRS will never call you asking for money. They always do that via snail mail.

- the police will never call you asking to post bail for your grandkids. The kid might, but quite often scammers try to impersonate the kids. Ask them questions that only the kid will know, like what is their middle name, Mom's name, etc. Heck a lot of the time (from what I've read) the scammer doesn't even know the name of the kid that they are impersonating. And yet people still fall for it.

- The bank or IRS or CIA or DHS will never call you and say that there was suspicious activity on your account and you need to withdraw cash and send/give it to someone.

- No government agency or bank will ask you to send funds via Bitcoin.

- Trust nothing. If you get an email from a friend that involves money, investing, etc. CALL THEM on the phone to confirm that they really sent it. This happened to my mother, fortunately she asked me before she sent $27K.

Ditto for not sending money via 'cash cards' to anybody, especially not a government agency. Just heard of somebody falling for the "this is the FBI and your bank account has been used for crime and we are about to freeze it, so just send us some cash cards so we can make a new account so you have some spending money until this all gets cleared up" It's sounds too stupid to fall for, but they went and sent 'the FBI' lots of expensive untraceable cash cards. I mean, if you can't trust somebody who says they are from the FBI and looking to do you a favor, who can you trust?

And Thx for the TV tip - I never would have thought of that and we are nearing a replacement of ours.

wtwo3 wrote

These scammers are getting pretty damn sophisticated.

Cap.