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^ What are your thoughts on that setup?
Thread referenced by Longboarder in Alignment numbers, now that I got camber plates 07-04-2013
Guys, when comparing set ups it makes sense to specify if you are running stock or staggered tire set up, what tires, and how much street driving the car sees.

Case in point - I switched from AD08 to PSS, PSS need more camber front and rear. Also, square set up would warrant closer front and rear camber settings, while stagger similar to factory seems to work better with close to 1' of difference (e.g, -2.6' and -1.6' worked well for me on staggered AD08, but if I were not doing as much street driving, I'd add another -.1' or -.2' to both)
im -3.5 front and -2.75 rear now on my e46 with square set of nt01s, 273-35. neutral front toe and slight in on rear.
Dub A wrote
Just got my KW sleeves put on - im at 3/4's of the way down, believe that equates to 1.5" drop in the front and 1" in the rear.

How does the car ride? I'm about to get my KW sleeves put on in a few weeks.
Stock ZCP suspension. Just put on new super sports and alignment resulting in...

Front:
Camber -1.4 L/R
Toe 0.00 L/R
Caster 6.7/6.6 L/R

Rear:
Camber -1.6/-1.4 L/R
Toe 0.05/0.03 L/R
Need some help on this one guys. I have a 2013 BMW M3 ZCP w/ Eibach Pro-Kit. 15mm/12.5mm Macht Schnell Spacers. 245/265's. So what alignment specs should I go with on the street w/o getting overly complicated with plates? Never track it. You guys seem to know your stuff...
///Matz wrote
Need some help on this one guys. I have a 2013 BMW M3 ZCP w/ Eibach Pro-Kit. 15mm/12.5mm Macht Schnell Spacers. 245/265's. So what alignment specs should I go with on the street w/o getting overly complicated with plates? Never track it. You guys seem to know your stuff...
I'm more or less the same setup as this. 2008 M3 with 220M wheels, 15/12 spacers, EDC and just installed some Swift sport springs, pulled alignment pins. Getting a wheel alignment on friday. Can anyone help me wtih suggested settings for optimal handling street/occasional track day
rsv4dan wrote
I'm more or less the same setup as this. 2008 M3 with 220M wheels, 15/12 spacers, EDC and just installed some Swift sport springs, pulled alignment pins. Getting a wheel alignment on friday. Can anyone help me wtih suggested settings for optimal handling street/occasional track day
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
rsv4dan wrote
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
I would go by what Malek posted since the guys who have had their alignment done by MRF rave about the way he set up their cars. If I lived in LA I'd be at MRF everyday.

However the fact that you are going with that setup, don't you have to take into account the size of your wheels, ride height etc? I'm in the same position, mostly street and 1 or 2 track days a year.
K, this is what i was able to do since I didn't pull the alignment pin when we installed the springs.

Lowered on swift springs, 18 inch wheels, with 265 square setup for winter

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-1.4* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.5* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


Comments welcome...
^ why would you want toe out in the front for street? On track it might give you better turn in but for everyday its a tire killer and less stability under heavy braking.
^ Are you saying toe should be set to 0? Isn't that worse for stability?

I'm not an expert but hopefully Malek and others can chime in.
rsv4dan wrote
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
Depending on how much you track the vehicle, I wouldn't do 1/32" toe out on the front if it will be used on the street. Those specs are geared more toward a track car. These settings will of course vary greatly depending on ride height, and wheel and tire setup.

Given you are on Swift Spec-R lowering springs and the stock 18's with spacers, I would try neutral toe in the front and not toe out.

If you have more questions, let me know, I will be more than willing to help you.

Also, the post of mine you are referring to is based on a completely different wheel and tire setup as well as the suspension itself. I don't want that post to be taken the wrong way and everyone thinking those are the best settings to use. Those settings were used for a specific setup. Alignment is not a one size fits all subset of settings. Driver, car, track and tires all play a roll in what alignment is best for the car.
Malek@MRF wrote
Depending on how much you track the vehicle, I wouldn't do 1/32" toe out on the front if it will be used on the street. Those specs are geared more toward a track car. These settings will of course vary greatly depending on ride height, and wheel and tire setup.

Given you are on Swift Spec-R lowering springs and the stock 18's with spacers, I would try neutral toe in the front and not toe out.

If you have more questions, let me know, I will be more than willing to help you.

Also, the post of mine you are referring to is based on a completely different wheel and tire setup as well as the suspension itself. I don't want that post to be taken the wrong way and everyone thinking those are the best settings to use. Those settings were used for a specific setup. Alignment is not a one size fits all subset of settings. Driver, car, track and tires all play a roll in what alignment is best for the car.
Thanks so much for the feedback ... Pm'd you just now. Will appreciate all the help you can provide.
How do these look? :

E92
KWV3
Pins Pulled
ZCP Wheels OEM tire sizes
15/12 Spacers

Image hosted on: i1164.photobucket.com
Here u go
Attached image
Here u go!

Sways, lowered, spacers, camber/caster plates
Attached image
Thread referenced by timbo_3101 in 1M setup, what have we learned in a year and a half? 12-30-2013
Malek@MRF wrote  
rsv4dan wrote
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
Depending on how much you track the vehicle, I wouldn't do 1/32" toe out on the front if it will be used on the street. Those specs are geared more toward a track car. These settings will of course vary greatly depending on ride height, and wheel and tire setup.

Given you are on Swift Spec-R lowering springs and the stock 18's with spacers, I would try neutral toe in the front and not toe out.

If you have more questions, let me know, I will be more than willing to help you.

Also, the post of mine you are referring to is based on a completely different wheel and tire setup as well as the suspension itself. I don't want that post to be taken the wrong way and everyone thinking those are the best settings to use. Those settings were used for a specific setup. Alignment is not a one size fits all subset of settings. Driver, car, track and tires all play a roll in what alignment is best for the car.
Ok so I set the toe in the front to neutral and rear toe to 1.2mm. Does feel more planted.


My only issue is that they could get 1.9 camber in the front right but only 1.3 on the left side. Without camber plates and since it's lowered on swifts they said it's impossible to get it to match. Can someone confirm this is infact the case.
Here are my specs. Lowered on springs approx 1" drop front and .5" back. The front struts were pushed in. Riding on 19x9.5" w/ 255/35/19 fronts and 19x10" w/ 295/30/19 rears.


Attached image
Alignment tech said he couldn't get the front driver side camber to match the pass side. Suspension mods are Bilstein/Eibach B12 kit, Rogue tension rod bushings, DEFIV brace and TMS solid sub mounts. Can anyone tell just by looking at the current sheet what might be the issue?
Attached image
So I recently had my alignment done and my camber seems real high to me. The tech suggested these settings. I am running KW V3 and the rear is pretty much all the way down. Car sits just off the tires front and rear.

Front is 2.0 on both sides
Rear is 2.4 on both sides. He said he was having problems getting the driver side any more positive but he couldn't see anything physically damaged.

Any ideas or comments?
dmk08 wrote  
So I recently had my alignment done and my camber seems real high to me. The tech suggested these settings. I am running KW V3 and the rear is pretty much all the way down. Car sits just off the tires front and rear.

Front is 2.0 on both sides
Rear is 2.4 on both sides. He said he was having problems getting the driver side any more positive but he couldn't see anything physically damaged.

Any ideas or comments?
is there a reason he has the back that negative?