Post your alignment specs.

SlowSaloonM3 wrote

is there a reason he has the back that negative?

Yeah like I said he couldn't get the driver side anymore positive than that he said. Maybe I need to raise up my KW some?

dmk08 wrote

Yeah like I said he couldn't get the driver side anymore positive than that he said. Maybe I need to raise up my KW some?

the more drop you have the easier it should be to get negative camber. your settings dont make sense. slow saloon was trying to point that out. your front should have a higher negative camber than your rear, or at least thats the only way i have seen it besides rear engine car.

1MOREMOD wrote

the more drop you have the easier it should be to get negative camber. your settings dont make sense. slow saloon was trying to point that out. your front should have a higher negative camber than your rear, or at least thats the only way i have seen it besides rear engine car.

Yeah and what i'm saying is he said he couldn't get it anymore positive on the rear on the drivers side. So for instance he couldn't make it -2.0. Thats why I asked if maybe I need to raise up my rear to get more positive.

He could get it to go more on the passenger side but not the driver. He said maybe something in the top of suspension was warped but he couldnt find anything.

EDIT: Unless you're just saying -2.4 isn't a problem in the rear my front should just be more?

dmk08 wrote

Yeah and what i'm saying is he said he couldn't get it anymore positive on the rear on the drivers side. So for instance he couldn't make it -2.0. Thats why I asked if maybe I need to raise up my rear to get more positive.

He could get it to go more on the passenger side but not the driver. He said maybe something in the top of suspension was warped but he couldnt find anything.

EDIT: Unless you're just saying -2.4 isn't a problem in the rear my front should just be more?

okay got it. thought you were trying to raise up the front to get more negative. depends what type of set up your looking to get. is this a track car? dual purpose? i would say unless its a full time track car -2.4 is a lot in the rear and yes you could try raising it slightly to get it dialed back some. probably want more like -2.5 front and -1.8 to -2 rear for a fairly aggressive dual purpose set up.

1MOREMOD wrote

okay got it. thought you were trying to raise up the front to get more negative. depends what type of set up your looking to get. is this a track car? dual purpose? i would say unless its a full time track car -2.4 is a lot in the rear and yes you could try raising it slightly to get it dialed back some. probably want more like -2.5 front and -1.5 rear for a fairly aggressive dual purpose set up.

Yes, it's mostly a street car with 3-5 track events a year. I don't really want it setup this way and it's going to eat my rear tires.

It's just odd that he can freely adjust the passenger side rear to -1.8 I think he said but he cannot get the driver more than less than -2.4. Does it sound like I have a bent control arm or something?

dmk08 wrote

Yes, it's mostly a street car with 3-5 track events a year. I don't really want it setup this way and it's going to eat my rear tires.

It's just odd that he can freely adjust the passenger side rear to -1.8 I think he said but he cannot get the driver more than less than -2.4. Does it sound like I have a bent control arm or something?

yeah i would say something is up and needs to be looked into. if you want it more geared towards the street then you should shoot for less negative camber than i suggested. but remember the trade off is that on the track you will wear the crap out of your outer edges. have to decide which is more important basically. street wear or track wear and performance.

1MOREMOD wrote

yeah i would say something is up and needs to be looked into. if you want it more geared towards the street then you should shoot for less negative camber than i suggested. but remember the trade off is that on the track you will wear the crap out of your outer edges. have to decide which is more important basically. street wear or track wear and performance.

Yep just don't know where to go. Doubt the dealer will have a clue and probably will freak out about my KW. Ugh.

dmk08 wrote  

1MOREMOD wrote

yeah i would say something is up and needs to be looked into. if you want it more geared towards the street then you should shoot for less negative camber than i suggested. but remember the trade off is that on the track you will wear the crap out of your outer edges. have to decide which is more important basically. street wear or track wear and performance.

Yep just don't know where to go. Doubt the dealer will have a clue and probably will freak out about my KW. Ugh.

hmm. thats odd. if he could get one side done the other side should be the same - and he didnt think anything was off?

who installed these? i would go back there. does your kw cone with camber plates in front?

SlowSaloonM3 wrote

hmm. thats odd. if he could get one side done the other side should be the same - and he didnt think anything was off?

who installed these? i would go back there. does your kw cone with camber plates in front?

No the front does not have camber plates. To be clear tho this problem is on the Rear Drivers side corner.

He said the control arm could be off and not be noticeable to the human eye. But I honestly don't know enough to combat that argument. How would one go about measuring this? Could the way the KW was installed somehow cause this?

isnt this a bmw tech? maybe he should have fixed it for you if something was off. i would just check your installation. make sure things are correctly installed. its plug and play so should be able to dial it down.

dmk08 wrote  

SlowSaloonM3 wrote

hmm. thats odd. if he could get one side done the other side should be the same - and he didnt think anything was off?

who installed these? i would go back there. does your kw cone with camber plates in front?

No the front does not have camber plates. To be clear tho this problem is on the Rear Drivers side corner.

He said the control arm could be off and not be noticeable to the human eye. But I honestly don't know enough to combat that argument. How would one go about measuring this? Could the way the KW was installed somehow cause this?

forgot to quote. see above.

SlowSaloonM3 wrote

isnt this a bmw tech? maybe he should have fixed it for you if something was off. i would just check your installation. make sure things are correctly installed. its plug and play so should be able to dial it down.

No I didn't take it to BMW for the alignment as I have the KW on the car. I took it to a 3rd party shop. (Who is considered the best around)

Anyone to comment on my current geometry:

'13 E92 ZCP
Stock EDC suspension with pins pulled
ZCP wheels
PS2 tires
aligned with ballast in driver seat




Car is used for Track, AutoX and as a DD. I asked for max camber at the front, but was already there. Asked for 0" toe at the front and 1/16" toe in at the back but seems like they didn't really hit it.

Hi, this is my first post, so sorry if this is in the wrong place. I'll be honest I'm confused .... I have a standard e92 m3 2013 19 inch optional alloys. The car was pulling to the left when at speed approx 80 mph so got a shop to align the wheels, they gave me a printout but I have no idea if it's good or bad? The fact that the print out is all green once they are done must be a good thing ?

They can set machine to whatever specs they want so showing green doesn't mean much. Looks like they took away some front camber which isn't a good thing I would want more even on street car. Also took your rear toe from - to positive number. Can't remember how that works but should have slight toe in on rear.

Thanks for your comments, they loaded up the specs for e92 2006 - 19" wheel, I'm now thinking there must be a m3 version they should have loaded.

I usually go in knowing what specs I want and have them do it, but mine has been track car. Did same on my x5d though also.

Front: -2.9 camber
0.03 toe
Rear -2.1 camber
0.09 toe

New alignment specs post KW Clubsport install :

Here's my latest with the TCKline D/A's. Both tie rods were seized so they couldn't do much there. Personally I THINK there might be too much negative camber out back but what do I know. Any suggestions from the gurus would be appreciated for a mainly street driven car with the occasional track day outing. Thanks again.

That's a decent amount of rear camber especially when you don't have bunch up front.

1MOREMOD wrote

That's a decent amount of rear camber especially when you don't have bunch up front.

I agree. I know the rear height needs to be taken into consideration when figuring out alignment specs.

23.4" rear ride height from bottom of wheel to fender edge with a 265/35-18 tire on the oem wheels. I was exchanging PM's with Malek but I'm sure he's absolutely busy with work because of the track season. Any help from anyone would be appreciated.