Limp Mode: Need a little help

Was driving the car today. Pulling away normally from a red light and got all sorts of errors that I'm sure most people here are familiar with. SES, DSC, DBC, hill assist and increased emissions.

I knew it was most likely the throttle actuator or idle control valve (what else could it be?). I'm kind of out of options. Ordered Bavarian Technic tool, but that'll take a few days to get here. I have a Scangauge and decided to plug it up to the car to see what happens. It gave me a generic code P1628.

I can't find this specific code, but from this website, P1623 through P1639 is throttle valve position related, although nothing about P1628.
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/bmw/

Any thoughts on this? I've been researching and found the most help with the E60 M5 (V10) crowd. It seems like a really common issue with the S85 so I'm leaning towards the throttle valve actuator. I would like to get ahead instead of waiting a few days to pull the BMW specific codes. What do you guys think? Also, is there a DIY for this job for the S65?

Let me be clear. I am not going to pay a stealership thousands of dollars to do this job. My car is out of warranty and this will be a task I plan on doing myself. If there are no good DIY's, I'll go ahead and write one myself.

Any advice, tips, opinions, or just words of comfort are welcomed

Had this happen this week as well. If it is the throttle body actuator then the part is almost $800, but it can be a DIY. I have 400 miles of warranty left and an appt Monday to get it replaced.

How does ur woman feel about.......LIMP mode? Viagra or cialis might help

On a serious note, I hope everything works out for u, nothing like having a problem with ur pride n joy(total buzz kill)

Please do as DIY since just as you I do all the work on my car cause BMW is just charging ridiculus money here in Sweden.( and I do trust my self better than them)
They wanted 650$ to change the sparkplugs and I did them on my own for 150$ and took just an hour. So beats me why they are charging 650$ for doing this job :-(.

Let It Rein wrote

Had this happen this week as well. If it is the throttle body actuator then the part is almost $800, but it can be a DIY. I have 400 miles of warranty left and an appt Monday to get it replaced.

Wow, with 400 miles left? You got lucky. I'm assuming they are probably just going to do 1 side right? From everything I've read, the other bank is just a ticking time bomb unfortunately.

Yamdan wrote

Please do as DIY since just as you I do all the work on my car cause BMW is just charging ridiculus money here in Sweden.( and I do trust my self better than them)
They wanted 650$ to change the sparkplugs and I did them on my own for 150$ and took just an hour. So beats me why they are charging 650$ for doing this job :-(.

I'll be glad to do a DIY, but I might need a little help first. I saw some members on here were getting billed (under warranty) for thousands of dollars and that just doesn't make any sense. People are doing the job in 3-5 hours, while BMW is calling it an 8.5 hour job for the V10's.

Can anyone help me find the TIS for this job? Something to guide me in the right direction? I think while I'm in there, I might as well change the sparkplugs and do the air filter.

Just bank 1 is throwing the code. It has only transitioned into limp mode a handful of times, but every time I hook up the ESS and pull codes, its there. Of course now that Ive said that, watch it not show up before tomorrow.

I'm assuming that once the new actuators have been installed, they'll have to be initialized. Is that an automatic trip to the dealership?

P1628 is a BMW specific code. You know whether it's a generic OBD fault or specific BMW one by the second number, i.e,
P0xxx = Generic and
P1xxx Specific

P1628 (2B21) is Bank 1 electromotive throttle-valve actuator predrive check

It's either the wire going to it or the actuator itself.

Replacing the actuator should do the trick

Mike Benvo wrote

P1628 is a BMW specific code. You know whether it's a generic OBD fault or specific BMW one by the second number, i.e,
P0xxx = Generic and
P1xxx Specific

P1628 (2B21) is Bank 1 electromotive throttle-valve actuator predrive check

It's either the wire going to it or the actuator itself.

Replacing the actuator should do the trick

I was actually hoping you'd be able to chime in, thanks Mike!

In your opinion, just go ahead and bite the bullet and get this part then? 13627838085 ($850 ). Item #1:


Also, am I going to need to initialize it somehow?

Thanks again Mike, glad to have you back.

W/// wrote

I was actually hoping you'd be able to chime in, thanks Mike!

In your opinion, just go ahead and bite the bullet and get this part then? 13627838085 ($850 ). Item #1:


Also, am I going to need to initialize it somehow?

Thanks again Mike, glad to have you back.

Thanks, good to be back!

That's a pretty pricey part, wasn't expecting it to be that much!.

It's pretty unlikely that it would be the wiring, unless someone was in there poking around. Have you tried clearing the fault to see if it returns? If it's a persistent fault I would probably go ahead and replace it.

After replacement, there is a procedure that should be performed to initialize the new part. I can do it remotely but your best bet is to take it to an Indy shop with an Autologic. Mainly you want to reset the values so it can relearn the positions with the new part installed.

You know, people like Mike Benvo are starting to restore my faith in humanity...a little. Welcome back.

PhillyNate wrote

You know, people like Mike Benvo are starting to restore my faith in humanity...a little. Welcome back.

Thank you sir !

Mike Benvo wrote

Thanks, good to be back!

That's a pretty pricey part, wasn't expecting it to be that much!.

It's pretty unlikely that it would be the wiring, unless someone was in there poking around. Have you tried clearing the fault to see if it returns? If it's a persistent fault I would probably go ahead and replace it.

After replacement, there is a procedure that should be performed to initialize the new part. I can do it remotely but your best bet is to take it to an Indy shop with an Autologic. Mainly you want to reset the values so it can relearn the positions with the new part installed.

It really is. Considering the other one is probably a ticking time bomb, it gets real expensive.

I've got a Bavarian Technic tool ordered, but that could be a couple of days/end of the week before I get any help unfortunately. I tried clearing the code with the generic OBD2 tool but that didn't do anything.

Mike, one more important question: I know I don't have that many codes to give you, but is it possible that P1628 can just be the throttle sensor? Or would that be a different code all together. That's the difference between an $800 to $1xx part.

I guess the safe thing to do is to drive my E30 (that needs a new cylinder head...) until I get the tool and try to clear it? I wanted to try to get ahead and start taking parts off the S65, but I guess I better be cautious.

As I said, I'm getting most of my info from the V10 guys. Looks like it's just as common for them. Any more info from anyone here would be greatly appreciated.

FYI, here's the troublemaker btw. From what I can tell, the gears wear down causing the part to fail.... probably a $2 gear too.

PhillyNate wrote

You know, people like Mike Benvo are starting to restore my faith in humanity...a little. Welcome back.

Amen to that.

Mike Benvo wrote

P1628 is a BMW specific code. You know whether it's a generic OBD fault or specific BMW one by the second number, i.e,
P0xxx = Generic and
P1xxx Specific

P1628 (2B21) is Bank 1 electromotive throttle-valve actuator predrive check

It's either the wire going to it or the actuator itself.

Replacing the actuator should do the trick

This !

Good to see you back Mike

If you end up ordering, talk to jon@bmwpartspros.com. His price was less than $800 shipped. Good luck.

Let It Rein wrote

If you end up ordering, talk to jon@bmwpartspros.com. His price was less than $800 shipped. Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll try to go through my sources and see if I can get the part wholesale. Still going to hurt the wallet, but not as bad. Will keep those guys in mind though.

Anyone know if you can reset the throttle actuator via BT tool? Sorry, not a familiar with it at all.

Had this happen this week as well

CyrusMccasl wrote

Had this happen this week as well

What's your plan of action? Still under warranty or DIY?

Dropped mine this morning...got a 335d...torquey little thing...

W/// wrote

Thanks for the heads up. I'll try to go through my sources and see if I can get the part wholesale. Still going to hurt the wallet, but not as bad. Will keep those guys in mind though.

Anyone know if you can reset the throttle actuator via BT tool? Sorry, not a familiar with it at all.

Email info@bpmsport.com and reference this thread, and our parts guy will get you the best price on this if you havent ordered already.

Also, McKennaBMW on the forums is a great source for OEM parts at extremely good prices.

You should definitely be able to reset the throttle adaptations with the BT tool

Thanks img and ///W

Tried resetting the SES with the BT tool with no luck. Part is already on the way (got it at wholesale price so it doesn't hurt as much).

Will write a complete DIY from start to finish as I'm sure most E9x M3's will need this done out of warranty sooner or later. From what I can tell so far, probably not too bad of a job.

W/// wrote  

Tried resetting the SES with the BT tool with no luck. Part is already on the way (got it at wholesale price so it doesn't hurt as much).

Will write a complete DIY from start to finish as I'm sure most E9x M3's will need this done out of warranty sooner or later. From what I can tell so far, probably not too bad of a job.

Mine gets done tomorrow. Can't wait for the loaner...I need to get hay and feed tomorrow...lmao