DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

nholmes wrote

Yep! I was just about to post that to help ya.

Just doing the one actuator? I, too, like to live dangerously.

Yeah I replaced one entire unit and did the odometer gears to the other. So should be good. How do I get the plenum back on? I can't get the back of the plenum to go far enough into the throttle bodies. I'll post some pics. There's a little ridge on the plenum that has to go into the throttle body rubber so that the clamp will get it to stay down and I've been wrestling with it for 30 minutes and can't figure it out. I even go into the engine bay to push down on it and nothing.

Help!!!! Please!!

Loosen them way up. It takes some oomph to get it to sit, I stood on a ladder and leaned into it. At one point I kneeled onto it, it held my weight.

Also start with the back first

While you're there I would suggest lubricating the arms that move the valves. Many people have complained about them squeaking.....me included.

nholmes wrote

Loosen them way up. It takes some oomph to get it to sit, I stood on a ladder and leaned into it. At one point I kneeled onto it, it held my weight.

That was it! I re read the spark plug diy and the author said he had an awful time with it too and had to loosen them way up. That did it and it snapped right in. That's awesome you used a ladder and knelt on it. Lol. Genius!

nholmes wrote

Also start with the back first

Yup I did and it worked great.

Flea7 wrote

While you're there I would suggest lubricating the arms that move the valves. Many people have complained about them squeaking.....me included.

I didn't think to do that and never noticed it squeak. I'll do it next time I have that dang thing off.

The actuator swap was easy diy. Hardest part were the wire clips. The odometer gear installation, that was another story. Broke one gear because I didn't catch the gear was directional. Then broke a number of drill bits trying to drill the spring pin hole. Then the bushing wouldn't pull down so I had to press it in with a piece of aluminum tube and hammer. It definitely tried my patience but all worked out well. Darren and Jeff at odometer gears are amazing. They overnighted me the half moon gear for just the shipping cost, no charge for the gear. Oh and they returned my texts at 950pm their time when I was at my most frustrated after breaking the gear. Great guys.

Thanks so much for your great help here guys. You're awesome.

Matt

Anyone know if there's a for sure way to know if the board is bad on your throttle body actuator, or if its just the gears/moffset?

Have same issue on one bank, getting christmas lights. Considering getting gear kit or pulling them and sending for refurbishment in UK. They do gears as moffsets. I'm open to any less costly solution.
http://www.rebuild.org.uk/buy-rebuild-service/

Are there a lot of the circuitry getting fried as well from the heat or is mainly the gears? What I am afraid is when they eventually stop producing these. If the heat is a contributing factor for failing t/a's then is it possible to apply a heat resistant coating to them?

Looking for a an actuator that hasn't throw any codes yet if anyone has one.

Has BMW re-engineered or corrected the Throttle Body Actuator from same failure. It seems like it's a disposable part that could be re-engineered to fix future problems.
Also, It seems to be significantly more common on 2008's than any other year.

Chime in with your model year if it failed, please.

So I was about to replace my throttle actuator using this DIY. I got the code about a week ago. I cleared the codes, because I needed to drive my car, now that I have time to replace my actuator, this morning I go out to my car to get the code again to make sure I was replacing bank 1. Now I'm stuck trying to figured out which actuators I need to replace? I'm a little confused, any help? Thanks in advance.

These are the first codes I got
2) 2B57 Motor emergency programm activated
3) 2B21 Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1

These are the codes I got today
1) CDC0 Throttle valve actuator CAN message bank 2
2) 2B57 Motor emergency programm activated
3) 2B21 Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1

W/// wrote

If you DIY, it shoudl cost you around $800-$850 out the door just for parts. Not quite sure what sensor you are talking about. Did they say which one of the 2 throttle actuators were giving you issues?

Is this price for one or both actuators?

Groundpilot wrote  

W/// wrote

If you DIY, it shoudl cost you around $800-$850 out the door just for parts. Not quite sure what sensor you are talking about. Did they say which one of the 2 throttle actuators were giving you issues?

Is this price for one or both actuators?

Price for one. Best I could do a month ago was $875 shipped from
Bmw Minnetonka.

boo... another 2008 with issues... just got Christmas tree lights and limp mode last night as I was pulling into garage. Tried again this morning and all were gone and as if it didn't happen but I pulled some codes (below) using carly and cleared them.

Does it mean its too late to swap gears and a replacement should be ordered?
Car is sitting until I can figure this out.

Codes in question is ..
002B21 - Predriver check throttle valve actuator
002B57 - check at lower top

So I've had the 27A1 for a few weeks every once in a while now. I can usually just clear the codes with my P3 gauge and the limp mode goes away either right away, or after turning off, locking, unlocking and restarting the car. It popped up when I started the car right away tonight, tried to clear the code like 4 times with no luck. I have the new TA, but it's going to be another week or two before I can get it on the car. I don't drive it a ton, maybe 100 miles every 2-3 weeks. Is there any way to get rid of the limp mode or something I'm forgetting? I will need to make a 2.5 hr drive back home before I can install the TA

O2ShootTheJ wrote  

So I've had the 27A1 for a few weeks every once in a while now. I can usually just clear the codes with my P3 gauge and the limp mode goes away either right away, or after turning off, locking, unlocking and restarting the car. It popped up when I started the car right away tonight, tried to clear the code like 4 times with no luck. I have the new TA, but it's going to be another week or two before I can get it on the car. I don't drive it a ton, maybe 100 miles every 2-3 weeks. Is there any way to get rid of the limp mode or something I'm forgetting? I will need to make a 2.5 hr drive back home before I can install the TA

You can't get rid of it if the ta keeps throwing the code. You can clear it but as soon as u hit the start button, if the ta gets stuck or can't can't through its normal routine it will throw the code and go into limp mode.

wuzupfoo wrote  

boo... another 2008 with issues... just got Christmas tree lights and limp mode last night as I was pulling into garage. Tried again this morning and all were gone and as if it didn't happen but I pulled some codes (below) using carly and cleared them.

Does it mean its too late to swap gears and a replacement should be ordered?
Car is sitting until I can figure this out.

Codes in question is ..
002B21 - Predriver check throttle valve actuator
002B57 - check at lower top

People have thrown the code and just replaced the gears then immediately had the code thrown again. I wouldn't risk it unless u have unlimited time then no harm no foul if you have to put a new ta in. You could then take the odometer gears and put them in the new ta

mharris2007 wrote

You can't get rid of it if the ta keeps throwing the code. You can clear it but as soon as u hit the start button, if the ta gets stuck or can't can't through its normal routine it will throw the code and go into limp mode.

I was afraid that was the case. Guess i'll try to get the new TA in sooner than later.

mharris2007 wrote

People have thrown the code and just replaced the gears then immediately had the code thrown again. I wouldn't risk it unless u have unlimited time then no harm no foul if you have to put a new ta in. You could then take the odometer gears and put them in the new ta

thanks
is the odometergear stuff better? It just looked like plastic which is the OEM right? or am I off base and these are better in some way? Or are you simply suggesting to try and revive it as it wont hurt? Sorry I didnt read the whole thread just looked at the pics.

wuzupfoo wrote

thanks
is the odometergear stuff better? It just looked like plastic which is the OEM right? or am I off base and these are better in some way? Or are you simply suggesting to try and revive it as it wont hurt? Sorry I didnt read the whole thread just looked at the pics.

The material and the tolerances of the Odometer Gears is better than stock. The tolerances are clearly better when you compare them in an assembled actuator. I am not sure if the more expensive brass UK gears are better or worse than Odometer Gears... I would postulate both aftermarket options are better than stock!!

JonM wrote  

wuzupfoo wrote

thanks
is the odometergear stuff better? It just looked like plastic which is the OEM right? or am I off base and these are better in some way? Or are you simply suggesting to try and revive it as it wont hurt? Sorry I didnt read the whole thread just looked at the pics.

The material and the tolerances of the Odometer Gears is better than stock. The tolerances are clearly better when you compare them in an assembled actuator. I am not sure if the more expensive brass UK gears are better or worse than Odometer Gears... I would postulate both aftermarket options are better than stock!!

Jon is right. The odometer gears are self lubricating and made of more durable material. In addition the tolerances are tighter. And the gear material is like on like vs the stock gear.

wuzupfoo wrote  

mharris2007 wrote

People have thrown the code and just replaced the gears then immediately had the code thrown again. I wouldn't risk it unless u have unlimited time then no harm no foul if you have to put a new ta in. You could then take the odometer gears and put them in the new ta

thanks
is the odometergear stuff better? It just looked like plastic which is the OEM right? or am I off base and these are better in some way? Or are you simply suggesting to try and revive it as it wont hurt? Sorry I didnt read the whole thread just looked at the pics.

It won't hurt to try and revive it other than your time and energy. Because if it throws the code again then you're back to putting in a new actuator and deciding if you want to put the better gears in the new actuator or not.

I have all the symptoms at 89K miles. So I started with Bank 2 and as I pried it open, a piece fell out. I've circled it in red in the pic. It looks like a gasket/washer but it feels like it broke off some plastic piece because of it's rough edges. Any idea where it goes?

BTW, thanks to JonM, pbonsalb, drummer20 and pshoey for your responses.