DIY: Let's Change the Engine Oil

JonM wrote

Saw a request for this. I let the dealer do the 1200 mile service because of the power requirement for transmission fluid change, so I have not changed my own oil yet. I am planning on it at 5000 miles, along with a Blackstone oil analysis. The handwritten notes shown include torque values. Oil filter kit part number is 11 42 7 837 997. This includes the O-ring for the filter cover and all crush washers.

Hey Guys,

Great info on this thread. I changed my oil yesterday and found something strange.

The drain plug size of the rear sump was different from the front sump. The front sump's was 6mm and the rear sump was 8mm - both with hex heads. While removing them I thought thats how they are but when I tried to put the brass washers from the Mann Oil filter kit that I ordered from Autohausaz, to my surprise I found that both washers were for
6mm and wouldn't fit the 8mm drain plug so I ended up using the old brass washer that came off the drain plug.

From what I have read on the BMW blog and this forum for the Oil change, the drain plugs are 6mm hex. But on the first post of this thread ( on the second picture above) I see different torque values handwritten for M6 and M8 which seem similar to what I have on my car. I really doubt if the sizes are different for different cars. My car is 2012 E93. Can some experts/DIY'ERS chime in if they have faced this? I plan to call AutohausAZ as well.

I have a '13, and both sump screws are the same....perhaps one of the threads has been repaired? And if that's not the case, then some tech messed up one of the hex, and simply replaced it. As long as it's not leaking I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Thought I would share my experience changing the oil for the first time on the car, clear up some inconsistencies found in the thread. Also a question at the end.

Purchased a standard oil change kit, with the newer BMW Twin Turbo power oil (10w60).

Drained both sumps for about 30 minutes until there was only drips coming out of the rear one.

Used some shop towels to sop up all the oil I could get out the of the oil filter housing. Torqued the drain plugs to 25NM. Both plugs are a 6mm allen head bolt. Torque spec is 25NM. Not 10NM, not 18, 25NM. There is incorrect info at some point in the thread about this. Its actually two posts up. I think those torque specs are for totally different bolts. Whoever hand wrote those in wrote in the wrong thing, plain and simple. The manual does say 25NM for the drain plugs. Both are M6 bolts. None of them are a M8.

Added about half a liter of new oil into the oil filter housing so pressure would build faster on the initial startup after the change. Torqued the oil filter housing cap to 40NM. My car is a 2012, and it says the spec on the oil filter cap. So that TSB about changing the torque specs from 25NM to 40NM for the oil filter housing was totally legit.

Added about 8 liters of oil into the engine (keep in mind I've got about half a liter in the oil filter housing already) to make for a total of 8.5L of oil in the engine.

Started the car up, pulled it outside and waited for the oil to come up to temp so I could see what the oil level was at. Once it did, it informed me the oil level was AT the minimum and I should add 1 quart. (interesting i drive says quarts and not liters despite the oil only being sold in liters)

I shut the car off, and add the remaining half liter of oil, for a total of 9 liters in the engine. (despite the capacity being 8.8L). Start the car up again, and the thing still tells me I need to add a quart of oil.

Perplexed as to how I can be so down on oil, I drive the car home and let it sit 15 minutes. I start it up again, and the oil level now reads halfway between minimum and maximum. I took the car for a spirited drive, to see if the level would jump to max. After restarting the car, there was no difference, it was still in the middle.

So what do you guys think? Should I actually add some oil? This electronic sensor is truly a piece of shit. The car needs a dipstick.

Drwankel.

I remember reading in the manual that the sump capacity was 8.8L but that the oil filter housing was something like 0.5L.

My theory is that if you drain the whole engine including sumps and housing, you're likely above the 9L mark. And from all the posts I've read from guys emptying everything, they all seem to have to add oil slightly above 9L.

The e-dipstick is incredibly inaccurate, so if, after an oil change, you hit the level between the low and high mark, I would just leave it... At least that's what I did.

Tried torquing drain plugs to 25 NM and stripped one of the drain plugs in the process :/ I had spare drain plugs, so torqued that one to probably 12 NM and called it a day. No oil draining out the bottom even after track session and some filthy offs, so I guess it's enough. Hope none of the filings stayed in the sump

redpriest wrote

Tried torquing drain plugs to 25 NM and stripped one of the drain plugs in the process :/ I had spare drain plugs, so torqued that one to probably 12 NM and called it a day. No oil draining out the bottom even after track session and some filthy offs, so I guess it's enough. Hope none of the filings stayed in the sump

Yep same thing happened to me. Those plugs are super weak. Anyway, I went with 10 NM and I've been good for 3k miles.

Just a word of caution on the dreaded oil cap...make sure that damn thing is on really snug. I think that the metal spring tabs tend to wear out and become weaker after multiple removals.

I just changed the oil in my '11 E90 M3 (with no issues during the change) and had a major blowout while was driving around the neighborhood to get a reading. Under pressure, the oil cap blew off, spewing fresh oil all over my engine bay and out the front of the car. I couldn't believe it. How does BMW produce such a terribly designed oil cap?? I've had the all-to-common cap leaking issues in the past, but not a complete blowout!

Lessons learned: 1)make sure cap is very tight and secure, and not old. 2)don't drive around to get a quicker oil level reading. Luckily I wasn't too far from home so I put another liter in and limped home (about 1.5 miles).

All said and done I lost about 1.5 liters I think. Could have been a lot worse. But cleaning this up was a nightmare!
Imagine coming around the front of your M and seeing this:

Wow I don't envy cleaning that up

G8RM3 wrote

How does BMW produce such a terribly designed oil cap??

It seems like the design team ran out of money right before the oil system in general. Leaky/bad caps, no dipstick, inaccurate digital meter that takes ages to get a reading, etc.

M3MPH1S wrote

Wow I don't envy cleaning that up




It seems like the design team ran out of money right before the oil system in general. Leaky/bad caps, no dipstick, inaccurate digital meter that takes ages to get a reading, etc.

My front end is still weeping oil from random places. I imagine I'll be continually cleaning it up for weeks.

And I agree. I shouldn't have to wait for 15 minutes while my car is running for my it to tell me that I need to add more oil "as soon as possible".

oh man. not good at all

those germans are funny, oil cap issues, no oil dipstick, no spare tire.

I reember doing one oil change and driving around for literally 30 mins and still no reading! I said fuck it and just parked the car.

When i change my oil i siphon out the excess pool of oil in the filter housing. Does this mean i should add fresh oil in the housing or can i leave it dry? Correct me if im wrong but doesn't the oil flow through the filter before it is sent off to lubricate the various parts of the engine? i don't want to starve the engine right when i start my car. For those who know how this works, i'd appreciate the info. Thanks.

andysk585 wrote

When i change my oil i siphon out the excess pool of oil in the filter housing. Does this mean i should add fresh oil in the housing or can i leave it dry? Correct me if im wrong but doesn't the oil flow through the filter before it is sent off to lubricate the various parts of the engine? i don't want to starve the engine right when i start my car. For those who know how this works, i'd appreciate the info. Thanks.

If you are sucking oil out of the housing, you should replace it. But how much are you realistically removing, and why? I don't think BMW even says that is necessary.

G8RM3 wrote

Just a word of caution on the dreaded oil cap...make sure that damn thing is on really snug. I think that the metal spring tabs tend to wear out and become weaker after multiple removals.

I just changed the oil in my '11 E90 M3 (with no issues during the change) and had a major blowout while was driving around the neighborhood to get a reading. Under pressure, the oil cap blew off, spewing fresh oil all over my engine bay and out the front of the car. I couldn't believe it. How does BMW produce such a terribly designed oil cap?? I've had the all-to-common cap leaking issues in the past, but not a complete blowout!

Lessons learned: 1)make sure cap is very tight and secure, and not old. 2)don't drive around to get a quicker oil level reading. Luckily I wasn't too far from home so I put another liter in and limped home (about 1.5 miles).

All said and done I lost about 1.5 liters I think. Could have been a lot worse. But cleaning this up was a nightmare!
Imagine coming around the front of your M and seeing this:

Had this happen once right after an all-day detail and O/C. Looked about the same -- absolute brutality. I had to stand there and just shake my head while wondering how in the Hell the damn cap managed to blow itself off.

Cooked up a 50/50 of Dawn and Simple Green in the foam cannon that took care of most of it. Had to bag wrap parts of the engine bay and go in with some modified toilet scrubbers to get the rest out. Worst part is it gets flung into the cutouts underneath the hood so if you don't clean it completely oil continues to weep out of the F/R.

Ordered a new cap that night.

dparm wrote

If you are sucking oil out of the housing, you should replace it. But how much are you realistically removing, and why? I don't think BMW even says that is necessary.

Because i am a sad sad man and i cant live knowing that there is a pool of dirty oil there... just sitting there... waiting to be recirculated lol

oh and it equals to about 1/8 of a liter

andysk585 wrote

Because i am a sad sad man and i cant live knowing that there is a pool of dirty oil there... just sitting there... waiting to be recirculated lol

oh and it equals to about 1/8 of a liter

Well then the joke's on you because the motor itself still has plenty of oil in it.

reading car needs to be level and also reading car is ok being on front ramps for an oil change. can someone verify what is truly required/needed?

most dealers and oil change places drain on level ground. that being said, I've always just jacked up the front to drain.

dparm wrote

Well then the joke's on you because the motor itself still has plenty of oil in it.

Hey buddy, I'm fully aware that the engine is not completely dry when we drain the oil. When you remove the filter you can see dirty oil in the filter housing, its easily accessible, why wouldn't you remove it? its just my personal preference. You continue to leave the dirty oil there and I'll continue to remove it.

it really helps!!!! thx!!!

so whats the general consensus on drain plug torque?

Two questions/statements I have on drain plugs

1) When someone says that they stripped the plug, do they mean the 6m socket in the plug head or the threads on the plug? Big difference.

2) Best I can figure for torque specs from this thread is somewhere between 10-25 Nm. I'm not sure what I'll torque mine to when I change my oil for the first time. Probably 17.5 Nm or just use feel based on 40 years of oil plug tightening experience.

baba louey wrote

Two questions/statements I have on drain plugs

1) When someone says that they stripped the plug, do they mean the 6m socket in the plug head or the threads on the plug? Big difference.

2) Best I can figure for torque specs from this thread is somewhere between 10-25 Nm. I'm not sure what I'll torque mine to when I change my oil for the first time. Probably 17.5 Nm or just use feel based on 40 years of oil plug tightening experience.

1. Good question. It is easy to mangle the female socket in the plug head. I periodically replace my drain plugs for that reason.

2. I am still using 25 Nm without issue. Threads must be dry to get correct torque.