Oil change after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job

My shop told me to come back after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job for an oil change.

Anyone else do that? Thoughts? Recommendations?

Powashiftin wrote

My shop told me to come back after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job for an oil change.

Anyone else do that? Thoughts? Recommendations?

What bearings? Some have different break in procedures and that sounds normal.

Powashiftin wrote

My shop told me to come back after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job for an oil change.

Anyone else do that? Thoughts? Recommendations?

That is standard practice to get the assembly lube out that was used in the bearing install.

opihi5 wrote

Powashiftin wrote

My shop told me to come back after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job for an oil change.

Anyone else do that? Thoughts? Recommendations?

What bearings? Some have different break in procedures and that sounds normal.

WPC with ARP.

Thx guys.

The shop that did mine had me change the filter at 500 miles then a filter and oil change at 1k miles...

Powashiftin wrote

My shop told me to come back after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job for an oil change.

Anyone else do that? Thoughts? Recommendations?

Yes, this is basically a standard break-in procedure. I would definitely follow that advice. Did they have you run a special break-in oil?

Break in is not necessary after a rod bearing change.

dparm wrote

Powashiftin wrote

My shop told me to come back after 1,000 miles post rod bearing job for an oil change.

Anyone else do that? Thoughts? Recommendations?

Yes, this is basically a standard break-in procedure. I would definitely follow that advice. Did they have you run a special break-in oil?

Regular 10w60 oil and OEM filter. I'm thinking about using liqui-moly going forward though.

Powashiftin wrote

Regular 10w60 oil and OEM filter. I'm thinking about using liqui-moly going forward though.

Liqui Moly 10w60 is much thicker than BMW 10w60. Probably better to stick to BMW or TWS 10w60.

Powashiftin wrote

Regular 10w60 oil and OEM filter. I'm thinking about using liqui-moly going forward though.

What's wrong with the Castrol TWS or BMW-branded Shell 10w60s?

dparm wrote

Powashiftin wrote

Regular 10w60 oil and OEM filter. I'm thinking about using liqui-moly going forward though.

What's wrong with the Castrol TWS or BMW-branded Shell 10w60s?

By regular I meant Castrol 10w60.

I ended up changing the oil and filter yesterday.

Was happy to get the car past 3000 rpm as I was instructed to keep it under 3000 rpm for 1000 miles.

We do an oil change after 500 miles and then let it rip! Bearings dont really need to "break in" but there is always small amounts of dirt that gets inside the engine when its torn down for the repair. The oil change is to get the assembly lube out and dirt that may have gotten in there.

^this

If no assembly lube was used, then it's not required. Oiling the bearings with motor oil is what is recommended.

But i would still consider doing an early oil change just to be safe. Did mine at 1500 miles. after my install, install was done with engine oil as lube, no assembly lube.

Z K wrote

Liqui Moly 10w60 is much thicker than BMW 10w60. Probably better to stick to BMW or TWS 10w60.

It is not 'much thicker', saying that really doesn't tell the full story. Go read up on cold viscosity vs hot. There is enough info out there so you can search if you wish to educate yourself and not spew misinformation.

tdott wrote

It is not 'much thicker', saying that really doesn't tell the full story. Go read up on cold viscosity vs hot. There is enough info out there so you can search if you wish to educate yourself and not spew misinformation.

I understand the Liqui Moly is slightly thinner at low temp and slightly thicker at high temp compared to Castrol TWS. In my own experience, I feel that the oil temp is slightly higher with liqui Moly when the engine is up to temperature. The needle tends to be slightly over middle mark more than what I remember with Castrol TWS...

tdott wrote

If no assembly lube was used, then it's not required. Oiling the bearings with motor oil is what is recommended.

But i would still consider doing an early oil change just to be safe. Did mine at 1500 miles. after my install, install was done with engine oil as lube, no assembly lube.

i have 1200 miles on my oil post rb job and havent done oil change yet. any issues 9 years later with your bearings? thanks.

Don’t need an oil change after RBs. Running a little assembly lubricant in your oil is no big deal. Rod Bearings don’t break in like piston rings! There will not be any metal shavings to worry about and dirt from the job is not an issue.

As above, early oil change is not strictly necessary after RB replacement. However it is a good practice to remove any installation lube or dirt and for the installer to make sure there's no weird metal shavings.

I asked this after both of my rod bearing services and was told it is not necessary. I thought it would be a good precaution as well as good practice since internal parts were changed. 279,XXX and still driving.

1st set - WPC & ARP
2nd set - BMW bearings and BMW bolts

E93415 wrote

i have 1200 miles on my oil post rb job and havent done oil change yet. any issues 9 years later with your bearings? thanks.

no issues, but I only put around 35k miles during that time. last 10k was a lot of track miles and going to and from the track.

Changed mine about 2500 miles after putting in BE bearings and ARP bolts. Typically do oil changes every 5k to 7.5k.